What would make my car stall all of a sudden while I’m driving at 40mph. And now it will not start or even crank the engine over. It has gas, lights come on. Please if you can point me in the right direction.
Will not start but lights come on
Quick answer would be the BATTERY and or Alternator.
If the alternator quits working the engines computer and engine runs completely off the battery. This could be from a failed alternator, alternator connections or a broken serpentine belt. The engine continues to run off the battery until the voltage drops below the computers threshold then causes the engine to die. At this point the battery is too weak to crank over the engine.Generally if this is the case the BATTERY light comes on.
The battery does still have enough juice left to operate the lights and radio. The lights draw about 15 amps, the radio draws about 5 amps to function. The starter draws up to 250 amps to operate.
The wiring harness was cut in a wreck. I have connected all but three solid black and three solid grey wires. They are identical. Which do I connect to which? Or does it matter? They say they go to the throttle sensor and neutral switch. Please help!!
PCM Wiring Harness Issue
You will need to identify which wire is connected to each terminal coming from the PCM. You can do this with a multi-meter by checking the continuity from the pin connector at the PCM. Then using a wiring diagram correlate the PCM connector pin with each wire and this will let you know where the wire is supposed to go.
I can’t get the A/C or Heat to come out the front vents. The vents are open, it will work on windshield, floor, and back vents. I have checked the fuses and none are blown. What do u advise? If not to complicated I would like to do it myself. Also what part would I need and what would that be called?
This sounds to me like a failed mode door actuator. Its failure is so common that Dorman has come up with a better direct replacement version.
Part you will need: Dorman 604-110 Air Door Mode Actuator
Mode Actuator Replacement
Remove the left side sound insulator screws.
Remove the left hand floor duct.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the mode door actuator.
Remove the screws from the mode actuator (1).
Remove the mode door actuator.
Important The new actuator is in Bi-Level mode. Place the door in the middle of the travel position before you install the actuator.
I am having a major issue with my 1996 Buick Century with 75k original miles and nobody seems to be able to figure out the problem. I replaced my fuel pump and I am in the process of replacing the radiator fan and motor. What I’m experiencing now is hesitation and acceleration coming from a complete stop. It feels almost as if there is some type of emission issue or a fuel issue. But it is idling very high as well very erratic if I put the air conditioner on too. Has never lost power as of yet and check engine light is not on. I’ve had it hooked up to the computer and the mechanic said it’s not throwing any codes. He said that he hooked it up directly to the car and drove it and still no codes.
What could possibly be wrong with my car?
It seems to shift into first and second and third OK, nothing out of the ordinary. And sometimes the engine will rather but other than that I cannot come up with what is going on with this car. All my fluids are good. Transmission fluid good and color not gritty, doesn’t smell, oil’s good and doesn’t smell burnt. My temperature gauge has never raised to make me believe the engine is overheating but it’s just Driving really rough and feels as if it’s a gas issue or an emissions type of issue. Sometimes going from a stop it will hesitate like it doesn’t have enough gas to go. It’s almost like it feels from inside the car it feels like it’s falling apart. But on the outside of the car it doesn’t sound like it feels inside but it does idle loud. My car never idle that high before. It was not all that noise coming from under the hood I just know that I’m into this for $500 already and my car still not running properly just because it’s not throwing codes I don’t understand.
No codes is a good thing as it rules out most all sensors on the vehicle. However the I think I can help. The high idle is the big tip off for me. A higher than normal idle indicates a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak would cause everything you are experiencing and would NOT cause a code to be stored. The hesitation if from the engine sensors trying to compensate for the vacuum leak. The most common place for a vacuum leak on your specific engine would be the PCV valve hose.
How to locate a vacuum leak on an engine
Sometimes you are able to hear a slight whistle with the hood up and the engine running. Other times you may need to spray some non-flammable brake wash around suspected areas and listen for the engine rpms to change. Then dig deeper in the effected area of the engine.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve Removal
Remove the vacuum hoses (1) from the fuel pressure regulator (3) and positive crankcase ventilation valve (2).
All four of my windows stopped working at the same time. We have checked the fuses and replaced the 30 amp circuit breaker and they still don’t work. Can you tell me what it might be and how to fix the problem?
Grab a multi-meter and dive into the wiring harness. Check your negative and positive. Might keep an eye out for a break in the wiring harness near or at the driver side door jam. This is a common place for the wiring to become damaged. Use the wiring diagram provided to assist in tracing down your issue.
Power windows wiring diagram 2003 Buick Rendezvous
After I have been driving my car for a while and I turn the car off, when I go to start my car again it wont start. It’s as if my car is vapor locking (but I didn’t think fuel injection cars can do that or can they?) It’s 114* outside..my temp gauge is normal, I have 3/4 tank of gas, my oil gauge is right below 40. I’m guessing either my fuel pump and or fuel filter.
We have created a wonderful no start diagnostic chart to help assist in such an occasion. You will need to determine what the engine is not getting when it is trying to start. A quick test would be to spray some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it tries to run. If it does, then you know it is fuel related for sure.
Yes fuel injected engines can vapor lock. It might not be as common as in the old days but non the less it can and does occur. Vapor lock is just air trapped inside the fuel system. Simply removing the gas cap would releive the situation if this is what is happening.
Been told I have a bad fuel pump but don’t believe that’s the problem. Cause it pumps gas out for a few seconds and stops when I take the filter line off. but was told by the auto zone guy that the pump is bad if it stops pumping.
I believe maybe for a old car but mine probably has a sensor to tell it to stop pumping need a real mechanic to verify this thank you, car run hot and shut off was a burning smell but it didn’t lock up still turns over but won’t crank replaced crank sensor, cam sensor, checked the timing chain, and replaced the control module because the same auto zone guy tested it and said it was bad but didn’t fix the car. So think he’s just don’t know what he’s talking about or trying to sell parts. Also it’s getting fire thank you for any help.
When the car is turned on the fuel pump is activated for only a few seconds and then it no longer sent power. This is unless the ignition key is placed in the “START” position.
Generally the fuel pump can be tested by the amount of fuel pressure it builds. Therefore using a fuel pressure gauge to test is best. If you are certain your engine has spark then you could spray some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it wants to start. This would let you know that it is a lack of fuel if it tries to start.
Warning! Remove the fuel tank cap and relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing the fuel system in order to reduce the risk of personal injury. After you relieve the fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines, the fuel injection pump, or the connections.In order to reduce the risk of personal injury, cover the fuel system components with a shop towel before disconnection. This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel in an approved container when the disconnection is complete.
My left turn signal is working perfectly but right isn’t
Do you see the light on the dash blinking a bit faster on the right as compared to the left? If the answer is YES, than most likely one of the bulbs is blown on the right side. Replacing the blown bulb will correct this.
motor stops running an says starting disabled, wait 2 min. and then it will restart
Generally the dash will display ” Starting Disabled” when the anti-theft has been activated. Since your engine is already running and then dies I wouldn’t think it is anti-theft related. Sometimes after a battery has been changed or a vehicles battery has been jumped a relearn procedure needs to be performed. Research shows in most cases the issue has turned out to be related to a failing crank sensor.
With a master PASS-Key III key, turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Observe the STARTING DISABLED DUE TO THEFT message on the driver information center (DIC), after approximately 10 minutes the STARTING DISABLED DUE TO THEFT message on the DIC will turn off.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
Repeat steps 1-3 two more times for a total of 3 cycles or 30 minutes .
With a master PASS-Key III key, start the vehicle. The vehicle has now learned the key transponder information and the PCM has now learned the fuel continue password. IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the key transponder information and/or passwords on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.