While driving down the road I have a loud humming and thumping noise.
While driving down the road I have a loud humming and thumping noise.
I was looking at this car to buy it. When I went to drive the car, it was sitting in park at idle and I noticed a large amount of shaking. So I drove it up the road and the shaking stayed. I never drove over 35 mph. But I’d like to know whats causing the shaking before I consider buying it.
Most likely there is a misfire in the engine causing the shaking. May be as simple as just needing a good tune up or could a burnt valve. Hard to say without doing some diagnosing.
I have a 1996 Buick Regal. Until recently, it’s ran fine. And then, this past Sunday (as of the time of this post), the RPMs began to shoot up to 5 and 6 and the car lost acceleration. I thought it needed more transmission fluid, but today I found out that I had put too much in it. So my dad and I drained the pan and refilled it, but the car refused to go into gear. Let me rephrase — it would go into gear, but it wouldn’t go anywhere. I found several posts on various sites about how it might be a transmission pump or a transmission lockup solenoid, but the results upon testing them were still the same — no acceleration at all. Does anyone know how this can be fixed without the need for a mechanic?
If the fluid was burnt looking it will need rebuilt. If you hear a whining noise it is the pump. If the fluid was pretty new looking then it is most likely an electronic solenoid sticking. This will generally set a code. The check engine light will not illuminate as it has to do with the transmission and not the engine. You will need a scan tool in order to pull the transmission codes. The codes will help point you in the right direction. Not much to do without the codes. Feel free to post them below if you have further questions related to this issue.
Where is the fuel filter located?
The fuel filter is located under the car along the frame rail.
|•||There is no service interval for fuel filter replacement. Only replace the fuel filter if the filter is restricted.|
|•||Inspect the fuel tank internally and clean the fuel tank if you find a restricted fuel filter.|
Caution! Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Tighten the fuel filter fitting to 30 N·m (22 lb ft).
I have a 1997 Buick Park Avenue and when I flip the switch to turn my high beams on, they don’t come on. And my dash lights and side marker lights go off also. I have replaced the switch with a new one and it didn’t fix it.
Looking at the wiring diagram it would appear as the only thing in common with both the high beam switch and the dash lights would be the Lamp Control Module other than the switch.
I have a problem with my cooling system in my 1999 Buick Century Custom. I am leaking coolant. I tried stop leak, is not working. I can drive for long periods of time, open the radiator cap without any problem. It is cold to the touch and there is no pressure when I release the cap.
Sounds like your thermostat may be stuck in the open position as well as leaking coolant. Also the radiator cap may be faulty if no pressure is building or you have a large leak. You will need to use a cooling system pressure tester.
Caution! Antifreeze can be added to raise the boiling point of the coolant, but too much will affect the freezing point. Do not use a solution stronger than 70 percent antifreeze, as the freeze level rises rapidly after this point. Pure antifreeze will freeze at -22°C (-8°F).
GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL® was developed in order to last for 240,000 km (150,00 miles) or 5 years, whichever occurs first. Follow the instructions in Draining and Filling Cooling System . Use only GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL® or HAVOLINE® DEX-COOL® when adding or changing the coolant.
A 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol DEX-COOL® and water will provide the following protection:
The 2002 Buick Lesabre blower motor at times does not come on and then will start blowing or at other times the blower motor won’t come on for a long while but will sometimes start blowing after a restart.
This is form loose wiring, bad wiring connection or failing blower motor. Most common would be a failing blower motor. The blower motor has internal brushes that wear and begin to make weak contact. Replacing the motor should take care of the issue.
The blower motor control processor is an interface between the HVAC control module and the blower motor. The blower motor speed control, battery positive voltage and ground circuits enable the control processor to operate. The HVAC control module provides a PWM signal to the control processor in order to command the blower motor speed. The processor supplies 12 volts to the blower motor through the blower motor voltage supply circuit. The control processor uses the blower motor ground as a low side control to adjust the blower motor speed.
As the requested blower speed increases, the following conditions occur:
|•||The IPM increases the amount of time that the blower motor speed control circuit is modulated to ground.|
|•||The voltage and duty cycle, measured between the blower motor speed control circuit and ground, decrease.|
As the requested blower speed decreases, the following conditions occur:
|•||The IPM decreases the amount of time that the blower motor speed control circuit is modulated to ground.|
|•||The voltage and duty cycle, measured between the blower motor speed control circuit and ground, increase.|
I keep having to change my lights because they keep burning out, headlights, taillights, blinkers, etc. I just changed the turn signal last night. When I went to drive it this morning out again. Tried to replace, now it won’t work at all. What could be causing the lights to go out one by one? The car only has 107,000 miles on it.
Age is the most common reason for a bulb to fail. No different then the light bulbs in the house. The exact timing of each bulb going out is not predictable.
The only thing these all share in common is the ground connection. And they would not work at all without it.
When I press the air conditioning button on the console display panel; it blinks 3 times, but won’t engage the ac. The owner’s manual says it is the sensor. Where is it located.
There are four air temperature sensors. Two are on the right and two are on the left. There is an upper and lower.
The red light blinks three times if you press the air conditioner button when it is below 40. The AC will not work below 40F unless its in the defrost mode, this has been designed into the system for many years to prevent accidental running of the AC in the winter when not needed.
Ive read that the exterior temp sensor- will not take an immediate reading..
and by design may take some miles of driving before it takes a reading- and then displays the updated info on your dash.
Since you have the digital AC system.. the sensors may be reading the PREVIOUS low temp which was 40 or less…
Thus your re-circulation will flash the light…
2 min later- once you’ve driven- a new temp reading has been taken- and now above 40– and now it will work and no more flashing 3 times…
Thats what I think may be happening…. just an idea.
Just replaced my battery but something keeps draining it. I checked my alternator and it’s still good. Checked all wires and connections and they all look fine. What could be draining the battery?
An internal short in the battery will mostly go unnoticed. Odds are the battery is greater than 4 years old. Replace the battery and all should be fine once more.
|–||A reading of less than 11 V indicates that the initial charging will be very low.|
|–||Some time may pass before the battery accepts current in excess of a few milliamperes.|
|–||This circuitry, available on most chargers, prevents charging unless the charger leads are properly connected to the battery terminals.|
|–||A completely discharged battery may not have enough voltage in order to activate this circuitry, even though the leads are properly connected, implying that the battery will not accept a charge.|
|–||Most chargers have an override or a bypass function. This function will turn on the charger and charge a low voltage battery.|
|–||The reserve capacity rating on the battery label is the number of ampere-hours of charge required in order to produce the green hydrometer dot.|
|–||After the meter on the charger starts to show current flow, note the number of amps being accepted.|
|–||Determine the reserve capacity of the battery.|
|–||Divide the reserve capacity by the number of amps shown on the meter in order to determine how many hours of charging is needed.|