Sep 282016

2005 Chevy TrailblazerI have a 2003 Chevy trailblazer 4×4 6c. I sprayed carburetor and choke cleaner in the throttle body then it died and now wont start. its been a week.


Most carburetor and choke cleaner is for external use only and is not flammable. It can be sprayed onto a rag used to wipe the throat of the throttle body. But should not be sprayed into the Throttle body. Starting fluid should be used to spray into an engine as it will evaporate and not foul the spark plugs. You must have fouled out the spark plugs. You will need to remove the spark plugs and inspect them. It is safe to use starting fluid to remove any residue from the spark plugs left from the cleaner you used. With the spark plugs removed, crank the engine over a few times to clear the cylinders from any contaminates(disconnect coil to avoid shock).

Sep 222016

1991 Chevy LuminaI have a 1991 Chevy Lumina with multiple issues. The main one is when it started dying on me with no warning just goes from 40mph to 0 quick. I look under the hood saw a half cut cable leading from the motor to another part of the car I taped it up. Then it dies again so I notice hoses near the left front leaking orange/brown liquid downwards. Part of it coming from a grey cap thing. I don’t know why my car goes from working fine for a couple of miles to just dying. Then two days later it starts up then repeats after a couple of miles. Some people say its the alternator but it might be the half cut radio suppression hose or the leaking liquid right? Then I have an issue with the AC it blows warm air then stops blowing but still makes the sound as if its blowing anything. Do i need a new Freon?


The most common reason for this year vehicle having the issue you described is a failing ignition control module. Once the car has a period of time to cool down it will start and run as normal for a few minutes or longer and then start to die. Replacing the ignition control module should take care of the issue.

The leaking liquid should not have an effect of the engine as you described but it is a good idea to keep an eye on leaks. Check your fluid levels to determine what the fluid is.

As for the air conditioning issue, we have a pretty good step by step troubleshooting procedure to follow.

Sep 142016

1990 GMC SierraMy 1990 Chevy sierra  truck has a 5.7l v-8 t.b.i engine, automatic transmission.                                 The engine runs decent cold but when it warms up, it runs poorly. My truck wants to stall when I come to a complete stop. It hesitates during acceleration. The engine has a very pronounced miss once it reaches normal operating temperature. The spark plugs read different on each side of engine, ranging from lean to rich on both sides. My truck engine ran very good until these symptoms presented themselves all at once. I recently replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires. I am recently disabled because, in part, to my memory and cannot figure this out. Very frustrated.


You stated you recently replaced “distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires”. If the problem started after you worked on it, recheck your work first.

Assuming you replaced these parts after it started giving you trouble the first step would be to extract any existing diagnostic trouble codes from the On Board Computer. As luck would have it you do not need a scan tool for this. You can do it yourself.

Post any codes below in the comments for further information.

No Codes present. The most common cause would be the ignition control module breaking down.

If you suspect a problem in the ignition system, there are certain preliminary checks which you should carry out before you begin to check the electronic portions of the system. First, it is extremely important to make sure the vehicle battery is in a good state of charge. A defective or poorly charged battery will cause the various components of the ignition system to read incorrectly when they are being tested. Second, make sure all wiring connections are clean and tight, not only at the battery, but also at the distributor cap, ignition coil, and at the electronic control module.

  1. Check the cap for tiny holes and carbon tracks as follows.
    1. Remove the cap and place an ohmmeter lead on the cap terminal.
    2. Use the other lead to probe all the other terminals and the center carbon ball.
  2. If the readings are not infinite, the cap must be replaced.

Ignition Control Module Replacement

1.Remove the distributor cap and rotor as previously described.
2.Disconnect the harness connector and pickup coil spade connectors from the module. Be careful not to damage the wires when removing the connector.

Fig. 1: Be sure to coat the mating surfaces with silicone lubricant

ignition control module


3.Remove the two screws and module from the distributor housing.
4.Coat the bottom of the new module with dielectric silicone lubricant. This is usually supplied with the new module. Reverse the above procedure to install.




Aug 242016

Dash Lights 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo SS My dash lights went out, all other lights work. I had the BCM scanned and no code came up. The fuse’s are all good. When it get dark the head light come on however the shifter & radio lights go dimm.


There are four fuses that power the instrument cluster/dash lights. Make sure to check all four. If all fuses check good then you may have a sensor issue or wiring issue. If all sensors check OK and wiring checks, then the cluster itself is defective.

Dash Lights/Instrument Cluster Wiring Diagram 2004 Chevy Monte Carlo SS


Instrument Cluster Removal

Important The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster.

  • Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate Bezel Replacement – Instrument Panel (I/P) Cluster .
  • Remove the instrument cluster screws.
  • Pull the instrument cluster towards you and disconnect the electrical connector.
  • Remove the instrument cluster from the I/P.


Aug 202016

2003 Chevy S10OK are you ready sir? haha because here we go… I am going to explain as best as I can to paint as clear a picture as possible on trying to find the issue I am having. This is over the coarse of about 5 months with several mechanics not being able to figure out the problem. This is explained to the absolute best as I can. I have a 2003 Chevy s10 zr2 with a 4.3 liter 6 cylinder engine. Back in October of 2015, I blew a head gasket and ripped out 3rd and 4th gear in my transmission. I then got both the engine and transmission replaced and the engine that was put in was also a vortec 4.3 v6, but it was off of a 2002 s10 with approx 150,000 on it. My original was a 2003. After getting the truck back everything was running as it should other than 1 problem… While on highway ONLY, at approx 70-75mph, my check engine light would begin to FLASH and the truck sounded like it would bog down or that it was missing on a certain cylinder. So we did a OBD 2 test which revealed p0302 (cylinder 2 misfire). Replaced spark plug, which did not help the issue. So my mechanic said it may still have been loose or damaged vacuum lines. He also did do a compression test on that cylinder which came back good. This went on for approx a month but I did not drive the truck that much. So we then decided to move forward and so I took it to another shop where more tests were done and they concluded that I needed a new distributor and MAF sensor. So I got a new distributor, cap, and rotor, and sensor. Installed them along with another new spark plug in cylinder # 2, but had many issues getting the timing correct and so therefore I could not get the truck to start. (I NOTICED THE SPARK PLUG I PULLED OUT SMELLED VERY STRONGLY LIKE GASOLINE) Had it towed back to shop where they re timed the engine to TDC and got it running again. Picked up the truck and drove it home on highway and sure enough, engine light still flashing at 75 mph and still misfire type conditions. OK so got home and put code reader to it, still reads p0302. Inspected vacuum lines and did find that one of the vacuum lines was not connected properly. (on this truck, there is a line that comes from engine all the way over to the driver side front fender where there is a small nipple that connects the 2 ends of the vacuum line). That vacuum line was not connected, so the connection was made. I’ll be damned, truck runs great. No flashing and shifting is good like everything should be. Drove around the next day, no issues. The next day, I decide to take the truck to a family farm to pick up four wheeler and while about 25 miles down the road traveling at highway speeds, same problem comes back. flashing engine light and misfire conditions. I drove approx 10 more miles like this and decided to get off highway. Once I got off at nearest exit and started coming to a stop, the truck really bogged down and died. Attempted to restart and truck would start but just barely stay running until it would die again. At this point the only way to drive was to use 2 pedal method. One foot on gas while other on brake. So here I am stuck with only a few tools with me. The way it was acting and sounding, I thought the cat converter went bad and clogged up. I remember this because this happened 2 years ago and I had the catalytic converter replaced then. So with no options I removed my O2 sensors in order to see if maybe the cat was bad by releasing and gases or pressure that could be backing up. I did not have the special O2 sensor removal socket so I unfortunately cut the wires in order to get wrench on to remove sensors. Now of coarse the truck runs like shit and still wont idle because of O2 sensors. Once again had truck towed back to original shop. Bought all 3 brand new O2 sensors and installed them. Truck started up and idled for a few minutes with no codes coming up, but the catalytic converter got too hot too fast. Bad Cat? Mechanic removed exhaust system and completely gutted the entire cat and reinstalled system. He also inspected and found 2 additional damaged vacuum lines. So he then repaired all vacuum lines, however no vacuum test was ever performed on this truck. Now the truck is again not starting or if it does has very poor idle. The best way to describe what its doing is it will crank and wants to start up, but the engine seems like its jumping or misfiring completely. Almost like its being choked if that makes any sense? Did some research and mechanic thought possibly a bad ignition coil and ignition module. Had both of those replaced and still no change with truck. He then thought bad computer. Had a new computer handy so he plugged and played with the new computer and nothing changed. WTF!!!! Did more research and possibly found the answer. New crankshaft position sensor?? Bought new sensor and went ahead and got new plugs and wires. Come to find out that when he installed the different engine, he did not do a relearn procedure on this newer engine like he was supposed to. So today, installed new sensor and that again STILL did not do anything. Now truck is throwing p0300 (random misfire) and P0101 (MAF out of range). But the MAF is new…. I cant perform a relearn procedure if the engine will not idle right. So at this point me and my mechanic are completely lost for ideas. We cannot figure this damn thing out? Is perhaps the timing on the crankshaft off again? Or what about fuel? Possibly spider fuel injectors are bad? I already replaced fuel filter about a year ago…….. Just a thought but I do have an aftermarket Spectre air intake system installed on my air filter and ironically after that install is when all the problems began. I am going to replace all the spark plugs and wires asap and see if that does anything but with my luck that is still not the issue. If there is any advice you have or anything that you can think of on what could be the problem and what steps to take next… Sorry this was long but I had to make this as detailed as possible for you. Thank you so much for ANY input that you may have.

New parts replaced:
Engine, transmission, MAF sensor, O2 sensors X 3, vacuum lines inspected, ignition coil and module, gutted cat converter, inspection of computer, crankshaft position sensor. Wires and plugs to be replaced next….


Thank you for adding as much detail as you could. This helps a great deal. Going over what you have done. A compression test was a good test to perform. However all cylinders should have been done in order to compare the readings. All cylinders should be with in 20 – 30 psi of each other. If not, that cylinder has an issue. Possible blown head gasket, burnt valve, etc. I do not think you have a compression issue though. I have seen the spider injectors cause some issues similar to this. It is possible to replace an individual one but would recommend replacing all of them if you are going to do that. This would be the most common cause. But noticing that once you change the intake is when the issue started, I would put it back stock and see if it corrected the issue. Then you know it was the aftermarket part or connections. If the intake hoses are loose the MAF sensor will give an incorrect reading and cause some odd issues. This is where I would start, put it back stock. Clear codes. Test and read codes if problem persists. If P0302 comes back or P0300, pull all spark plugs and see if any of them look wet. If they do, replace the spider injectors.

Aug 202016

1999 Chevy Monte CarloWhen braking there is a noise that sounds like the shift lever interlock but it comes from the pedal area. I unplugged one of the ABS wires from ABS module and the ABS noise stopped. But doing that I now have no abs. The ABS works fine its just the noise and where it is from.


Sounds like the ABS system is working and as it should. I am guessing the noise you are hearing is the usual ABS noise which is kind of a grown noise. This happens when you are on ice and braking or when one of the wheel speed sensors is reading improperly. This is a common issue when a hub bearing starts to fail. Some of the metal flakes from the worn bearing material affect the wheel speed sensor reading.

ABS Noise Fix

Replace the hub bearing assembly. The wheel speed sensor is inside the hub bearing and cannot be serviced separately.