Aug 192016
 
:
//www.freeautomechanic.com/mechanic/forum/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/2003-chevy-blazer.jpg 600w, https://www.freeautomechanic.com/mechanic/forum/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/2003-chevy-blazer-300x158.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" />My blazer is having hard shifts between 1st and 2nd gear, sometimes I can shift between all gears no problem, next just 1st and 2nd… Than none at all, each time a gear disappears its like my blazer is in neutral. Problems with reverse and the issues only seem to happen when the temp gauge is reading at least 195+. Also really tgin trans fluis almost like water was added. Please help!

RESPONSE If the transmission fluid level is full and the fluid looks clean it would indicate an internal issue. Most likely a sticking solenoid or failing solenoid.

Automatic Transmission Operation

Your automatic transmission may have a shift lever located on the console between the seats or on the steering column. There are several different positions for your shift lever. If your vehicle is equipped with a column shift lever, it features an electronic shift position indicator within the instrument panel cluster. This display must be powered anytime the shift lever is capable of being moved out of PARK (P). This means that if your key is in OFF, but not locked, there will be a small current drain on your battery which could discharge your battery over a period of time. If you need to leave your key in the ignition in OFF for an extended period, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery cable from the battery to prevent discharging your battery.
PARK (P)
This position locks your rear wheels. It’s the best position to use when you start your engine because your vehicle can’t move easily.
Warning! It is dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. The vehicle can roll. Do not leave the vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, always set the parking brake and move the shift lever to P (Park). See Shifting Into Park . If you are pulling a trailer, see Towing a Trailer . Warning!  If you have four-wheel drive, your vehicle will be free to roll — even if your shift lever is in PARK (P) — if your transfer case is in NEUTRAL. So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive . See Shifting Into Park (P) . Ensure the shift lever is fully in PARK (P) before starting the engine. Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system. You have to fully apply your regular brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when the ignition key is in RUN. If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever; then, while pressing the button on the console shift lever, push the shift lever all the way in PARK (P) as you maintain brake application. Then move the shift lever into the gear you wish. See Shifting Out of Park (P) .
REVERSE (R)
Use this gear to back up.
Caution! Shifting to R (Reverse) while the vehicle is moving forward could damage the transmission. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Shift to R (Reverse) only after the vehicle is stopped.
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow, ice or sand without damaging your transmission, see If You Are Stuck:
In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow .
NEUTRAL (N)
In this position, your engine doesn’t connect with the wheels. To restart when you’re already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only.
Warning! Shifting into a drive gear while the engine is running at high speed is dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the brake pedal, the vehicle could move very rapidly. You could lose control and hit people or objects. Do not shift into a drive gear while the engine is running at high speed. Caution! Shifting out of P (Park) or N (Neutral) with the engine running at high speed may damage the transmission. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Be sure the engine is not running at high speed when shifting the vehicle.
DRIVE (D)This position is for normal driving. If you need more power for passing, and you’re:
  • Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your accelerator pedal about halfway down.
  • Going about 35 mph (55 km/h) or more, push the accelerator all the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have more power. DRIVE (D) should not be used when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills or for off-road driving. Select THIRD (3) when operating the vehicle under any of these conditions.
THIRD (3)
This position is also used for normal driving. It offers more power and lower fuel economy than DRIVE (D). You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills or winding roads or for off-road driving.
SECOND (2)
This position gives you more power but lower fuel economy than THIRD (3). You can use SECOND (2) on hills. It can help control your speed as you go down steep mountain roads, but then you would also want to use your brakes off and on.
You can also use SECOND (2) for starting your vehicle from a stop on slippery road surfaces.
FIRST (1)
This position gives you even more power but lower fuel economy than SECOND (2). You can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the shift lever is put in FIRST (1) while the vehicle is moving forward, the transmission won’t shift into first gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
Caution! Spinning the tires or holding the vehicle in one place on a hill using only the accelerator pedal may damage the transmission. The repair will not be covered by your warranty. If you are stuck, do not spin the tires. When stopping on a hill, use the brakes to hold the vehicle in place.
Aug 102016
 

2006 Chevy Malibu MaxxI have a 2006 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx and the ABS light and traction control lights came on at the same time…. what could be wrong?


RESPONSE

Most common reason would be the ABS Sensor inside the hub bearing assembly. The entire hub bearing will have to be replaced. The hub bearing starts to wear and damages the internal speed sensor.  This will cause the ABS Light and traction control light to come on. The good news is the car can be driven without fear of it braking down. However the traction control and the ABS will not be functional.

ABS Light

The IPC illuminates the ABS indicator when the following occurs.

   •  The electronic brake control module (EBCM) detects an ABS-disabling malfunction and sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination.
   •  The IPC performs the bulb check.
   •  The IPC detects a loss of serial data communication with the EBCM.
   •  The EBCM sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination.

Low Traction Indicator

The IPC illuminates the low traction indicator when the following occurs:

   •  The electronic brake control module (EBCM) detects a traction control event. The IPC receives a serial data message from the EBCM requesting illumination.
   •  The IPC performs the displays test at the start of each ignition cycle. The indicator illuminates for approximately 3 seconds.

Traction Control Light

The IPC illuminates the traction off indicator when the following occurs.

   •  The EBCM disables engine torque reduction due to a malfunction and sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination.
   •  The driver manually disables VSES and engine torque reduction by pressing the traction control switch. The EBCM sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination.

The IPC flashes the traction off indicator if wheel slip is detected while engine torque reduction and brake pressure application are both disabled.

Aug 102016
 

1991 Chevy 3500I had the starter, alternator, battery and wires to all those components replaced. Sadly when I picked it up, it started up that was great. The sad part is first the odometer didn’t work. I know how to reset that. But the worrying problem is when I drove it, it didn’t want to go into second gear. Its like the rpms just went up. You could hear the engine scream driving at low speeds. Usually that would be cool but this is my classic so its not cool at all . I think it may be a speed sensor or the transmission is toast. I don’t understand why it would go if it worked fine before hand. A rough idea of what it was like, imagine driving 10 miles an hour which I was the whole way home and then the engine was roaring rpming like it was at a drag strip going 80-90 which is this vehicles top out speed because its stock.


RESPONSE

Generally being low on transmission fluid will cause what you are describing. The transmission is slipping.  If driven to hard or to long like this permanent damage may occur. If you where displeased with the performance you probably should have driven right back to the shop. I would have to guess it didn’t run at all when it was taken into the shop so they wouldn’t have any idea that it wasn’t like this when it was brought to them. But I am sure they would have been more than happy to check your transmission fluid for you.

Aug 082016
 

2005 Chevy EquinoxCar has sat in driveway for almost a year due to ignition switch problems. I finally removed the switch and housing off the steering column. The electrical ignition switch is now exposed  allowing me to take a screwdriver and turn it as if it were a key to start the car. However….upon first trying to start it, the battery which I bought 2 weeks prior to the car being parked in the driveway for a year, was bone dead. So I put it on a trickle charge over night. Upon putting it back in the car, turning the ignition to the on position, I have full electrical power….lights work….windows go up and down etc. When trying to START the car, it just “CLICKS” as if the battery was dead. What could the issue be as to why it wont start ?


RESPONSE

The BATTERY. When a battery is run completely dead it may take a trickle charger 2 to 3 days to charge depending upon the amperage at which it is being charged. There is enough juice in the battery to operate the lights and radio but not for the starter.Since the battery isn’t fully charged, the starter just clicks.

For Example: The radio may draw 5 amps and the lights may draw 30 amps, where the starter will draw 200 to 250 amps. Simple put, the starter requires a lot more juice to operate than that of the lights, windows and radio.

The fix would be to fully charge the battery or replace it with a new fully charged battery. Since the battery isn’t that old and money don’t come easy, I would opt for fully charging the battery. Also make sure there is no corrosion on the battery terminals between the terminal and the battery.

2005 Chevy Equinox Battery – Clicks

Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery‘s label.

For battery replacement, see your dealer/retailer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information .

Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.

Vehicle Storage

Warning!  Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.

Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.

Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.

You must close all doors and the liftgate before reconnecting the battery. After reconnecting the battery, you must press the unlock button on the keyless access transmitter. Failure to follow this procedure could result in the alarm sounding. Pressing unlock on the keyless access transmitter will stop the alarm.

2005 Chevy Equinox Battery Replacement – Clicks

Removal Procedure

battery cable ends 2005 Chevy Equinox
Disconnect the negative battery cable (1). Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure .

  1. Loosen the battery positive cable terminal bolt.
  2. Disconnect the battery positive cable (2) from the battery.

battery clicks replacement 2005 Chevy Equinox
Warning!  Do not tip the battery over a 45 degree angle or acid could spill causing serious personal injury.

  1. Loosen the battery hold down bolt.
  2. Remove the battery from the battery box.

Installation Procedure

Caution!Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

Warning!  Do not tip the battery over a 45 degree angle or acid could spill causing serious personal injury.

  1. Install the battery to the battery box.

Tighten
Tighten the battery hold down bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).

  1. Connect the positive battery cable (2) to the battery.

Tighten
Tighten the positive battery terminal bolt to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).

  1. Connect the negative battery cable (1) to the battery. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure .
Aug 042016
 

2012 Chevy MalibuDoes this car have a fuel filter and cabin filter?


RESPONSE

No Replacement needed for fuel filter. It is an integral part of the fuel pump. No Cabin Air Filter to replace either.

The fuel system is a returnless on-demand design. The fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel sender assembly, eliminating the need for a return pipe from the engine. A returnless fuel system reduces the internal temperature of the fuel tank by not returning hot fuel from the engine to the fuel tank. Reducing the internal temperature of the fuel tank results in lower evaporative emissions.

The fuel tank stores the fuel supply. An electric turbine style fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel tank. The fuel pump supplies high pressure fuel through the fuel filter contained in the fuel sender assembly and the fuel feed pipe to the Fuel Injection System. The fuel pump provides fuel at a higher rate of flow than is needed by the fuel injection system. The fuel pump also supplies fuel to a venturi pump located on the bottom of the fuel sender assembly. The function of the venturi pump is to fill the fuel sender assembly reservoir. The fuel pressure regulator, a part of the fuel sender assembly, maintains the correct fuel pressure to the fuel injection system. The fuel pump and sender assembly contains a reverse flow check valve. The check valve and the fuel pressure regulator maintain fuel pressure in the fuel feed pipe and the fuel rail in order to prevent long cracking times.

Aug 022016
 

2005 Chevy AveoHey there! I’ve got an odd issue with a 2005 Chevy Aveo with the oil light on. Earlier today I replaced the fuel pump because I was having problems getting it to start and it seems to have done the trick, but now when driving the engine makes a lot of noise when I give it gas and the check oil light comes on even though I’ve checked the oil and it’s fine. It’s got about 123,000 miles on it so I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised, but it seems like it’s another problem altogether. Is it possible that removing the negative battery cable caused a weird electrical quirk when I reconnected everything? Any ideas?


RESPONSE

Is it possible that removing the negative battery cable caused a weird electrical quirk when I reconnected everything?

Probably had nothing to do with it. The oil light comes on because of low oil pressure, not because the oil level is low. If the engine is making a knocking noise, the oil pump has gone out. If you drive it or run the engine this way permanent damage will occur. It doesn’t take long either. Just a few miles down the road without oil pressure and the engine is done. The internal components of the engine, specifically the rod and crank bearings, require oil pressure in order to get the oil to the places that need the lubrication it offers.

Oil Pressure Light

Oil Pressure Light
If your vehicle has low engine oil pressure, this light will stay on after you start your engine, or come on when you are driving.

This indicates that your engine is not receiving enough oil. The engine could be low on oil, or could have some other oil problem. Have it fixed immediately by your dealer.

The oil light could also come on in three other situations:

• When the ignition is on but the engine is not running, the light will come on as a test to show you it is working. The light will go out when you turn the ignition on. If it does not come on with the ignition on, you may have a problem with the fuse or bulb. Have it fixed right away.

• If you are idling at a stop sign, the light may blink on and then off.

• If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for a moment. This is normal.

Warning! Do not keep driving if the oil pressure is low . The engine can become so hot that it catches fire. Someone could be burned. Check the oil as soon as possible and have the vehicle serviced.

Caution! Lack of proper engine oil maintenance may damage the engine. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always follow the maintenance schedule in this manual for changing engine oil.

Jul 292016
 

Engine Bogs 1998 Chevy SilveradoI have a 5.7 vortex engine that cranks and idles fine. When you try to accelerate the engine  bogs out even all the way to the floor. If you let off, it goes.


Fuel Related issue from the sounds of it. While someone presses the gas pedal and it starts to bog, spray some starting fluid in the air filter. If the engine revs up, you know for certain it is fuel related. Most likely the fuel pump is going out. Fuel pump failure is quite common on these trucks. Of course change your fuel filter at the same time. You may also want to insure the fuel pressure regulator isn’t leaking. Normal fuel pressure should be between 60-66 psi. Use a fuel pressure gauge to check this. When you press the accelerator the pressure should increase. If it drops, the regulator is bad. If the pressure is below normal the fuel pump is shot.

Fuel Pressure Test Kit Gauge 0 – 100 psi

If the check engine light is on, pull the codes and post them below in the comments.

Fuel Pump Replacement 1998 Chevy Silverado when the Engine Bogs

Warning! Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

Fuel Pump 1998 Chevy Silverado

 

  • Remove the negative battery cable.
  • Relieve the fuel system pressure. Loosen the fuel filter lines
  • Raise the vehicle.
  • Remove the fuel tank.
  • Remove the fuel sender unit assembly by turning the cam lock counterclockwise using tool J 39765 . Or a hammer and straight edge(Screwdriver)

Universal Fuel Pump Removal Tool

  • Disconnect the fuel pump from the sender assembly.
  •    –  Pull the fuel pump up into the attaching hose while pulling outward from the bottom support.
       –  Do Not damage the rubber insulator or the strainer.
  • Inspect the fuel pump attaching hose for signs of deterioration.
  • Check the rubber sound insulation at the bottom of the pump.
  • Inspect the strainer.

Here is a replacement fuel pump. I have double checked to insure it will fit your vehicle.

Installation Procedure

 Connect the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose.
  1. Install the fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank. Insert a new O-ring seal.
  2. Install the cam lock assembly. Turn the cam lock clockwise to lock it.
  3. Install the fuel tank.
  4. Add fuel removed from the tank.
  5. Check for fuel leaks.
    1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
    2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
    3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    4. Check for fuel leaks.
Jul 292016
 

2010 Chavy ImpalaCar hardly moves on take off you have to press pedal to floor to get it to barely move, once it gets going drives fine. Until you have to slow below 15 mph. If you try to take off with car in 2nd. its a little better but u can tell car is working really hard. Any suggestions on what could be happening?


RESPONSE

My first guess would be some sort of transmission issue. If the engine is revving but the car isn’t going any where, most likely reason would be low on transmission fluid. However, there is a chance you are driving with the park brake on or one of your brake calipers is sticking.

Jul 212016
 

2008 Chevy ImpalaEngine stall situation. What causes an engine to stall while driving?


RESPONSE

Running out of fuel would be the most common for an engine stall issue. This can be a result of a faulty fuel gauge. If the battery light illuminated before hand the issue may be that of a failing alternator. An engine stall situation occurs from computer not having enough juice to operate.

If this is not the case, then diagnostic testing will need to be performed. Determining if the loss of spark, fuel, compression or timing is at fault. And then narrowing down the exact cause of the found related issue. One indicator would be if the check engine light is on. The On Board Computer will store codes related to any failed sensor. Using a scan tool to extract the codes is necessary for this procedure.

Jul 212016
 

2007 Chevy CobaltMy 2007 Chevy Cobalt 2.2 automatic is showing a random misfire and its making a putt putt sound from tailpipe. It is idling rough and is cutting off when I idle too long. What would be causing this? All my scanner shows is the random misfire on 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt 2.2 automatic.


RESPONSE

Chevy Cobalt Check Engine Light

Your vehicle has a computer which monitors operation of the fuel, ignition, and emission control systems.

This system is called OBD II (On-Board Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. The check engine light comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. This may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.

Caution! If the vehicle is continually driven with this light on, after a while, the emission controls might not work as well, the vehicle’s fuel economy might not be as good, and the engine might not run as smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that might not be covered by the vehicle warranty.

Caution! Modifications made to the engine, transaxle, exhaust, intake, or fuel system of your vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission controls and may cause this light to come on. Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass a required Emission Inspection/Maintenance test. See Accessories and Modifications .

This light should come on, as a check to show you it is working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the light does not come on, have it repaired. This light will also come on during a malfunction in one of two ways:

    • Light Flashing  — A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and may damage the emission control system on your vehicle. Diagnosis and service may be required.