I lose power while decelerating from 20 MPH to 10 MPH then power resumes. What causes this?
RESPONSE
Odd. Most complaints are of a power loss during acceleration. Do you lose power steering ability as well? Are you losing electrical power such as dash lights or just engine power?
I haven’t found TSB’s or Recall information on this issue.
My dash lights went out, all other lights work. I had the BCM scanned and no code came up. The fuse’s are all good. When it get dark the head light come on however the shifter & radio lights go dimm.
RESPONSE
There are four fuses that power the instrument cluster/dash lights. Make sure to check all four. If all fuses check good then you may have a sensor issue or wiring issue. If all sensors check OK and wiring checks, then the cluster itself is defective.
Important The ignition switch must be in the OFF position when removing the instrument cluster.
OK are you ready sir? haha because here we go… I am going to explain as best as I can to paint as clear a picture as possible on trying to find the issue I am having. This is over the coarse of about 5 months with several mechanics not being able to figure out the problem. This is explained to the absolute best as I can. I have a 2003 Chevy s10 zr2 with a 4.3 liter 6 cylinder engine. Back in October of 2015, I blew a head gasket and ripped out 3rd and 4th gear in my transmission. I then got both the engine and transmission replaced and the engine that was put in was also a vortec 4.3 v6, but it was off of a 2002 s10 with approx 150,000 on it. My original was a 2003. After getting the truck back everything was running as it should other than 1 problem… While on highway ONLY, at approx 70-75mph, my check engine light would begin to FLASH and the truck sounded like it would bog down or that it was missing on a certain cylinder. So we did a OBD 2 test which revealed p0302 (cylinder 2 misfire). Replaced spark plug, which did not help the issue. So my mechanic said it may still have been loose or damaged vacuum lines. He also did do a compression test on that cylinder which came back good. This went on for approx a month but I did not drive the truck that much. So we then decided to move forward and so I took it to another shop where more tests were done and they concluded that I needed a new distributor and MAF sensor. So I got a new distributor, cap, and rotor, and sensor. Installed them along with another new spark plug in cylinder # 2, but had many issues getting the timing correct and so therefore I could not get the truck to start. (I NOTICED THE SPARK PLUG I PULLED OUT SMELLED VERY STRONGLY LIKE GASOLINE) Had it towed back to shop where they re timed the engine to TDC and got it running again. Picked up the truck and drove it home on highway and sure enough, engine light still flashing at 75 mph and still misfire type conditions. OK so got home and put code reader to it, still reads p0302. Inspected vacuum lines and did find that one of the vacuum lines was not connected properly. (on this truck, there is a line that comes from engine all the way over to the driver side front fender where there is a small nipple that connects the 2 ends of the vacuum line). That vacuum line was not connected, so the connection was made. I’ll be damned, truck runs great. No flashing and shifting is good like everything should be. Drove around the next day, no issues. The next day, I decide to take the truck to a family farm to pick up four wheeler and while about 25 miles down the road traveling at highway speeds, same problem comes back. flashing engine light and misfire conditions. I drove approx 10 more miles like this and decided to get off highway. Once I got off at nearest exit and started coming to a stop, the truck really bogged down and died. Attempted to restart and truck would start but just barely stay running until it would die again. At this point the only way to drive was to use 2 pedal method. One foot on gas while other on brake. So here I am stuck with only a few tools with me. The way it was acting and sounding, I thought the cat converter went bad and clogged up. I remember this because this happened 2 years ago and I had the catalytic converter replaced then. So with no options I removed my O2 sensors in order to see if maybe the cat was bad by releasing and gases or pressure that could be backing up. I did not have the special O2 sensor removal socket so I unfortunately cut the wires in order to get wrench on to remove sensors. Now of coarse the truck runs like shit and still wont idle because of O2 sensors. Once again had truck towed back to original shop. Bought all 3 brand new O2 sensors and installed them. Truck started up and idled for a few minutes with no codes coming up, but the catalytic converter got too hot too fast. Bad Cat? Mechanic removed exhaust system and completely gutted the entire cat and reinstalled system. He also inspected and found 2 additional damaged vacuum lines. So he then repaired all vacuum lines, however no vacuum test was ever performed on this truck. Now the truck is again not starting or if it does has very poor idle. The best way to describe what its doing is it will crank and wants to start up, but the engine seems like its jumping or misfiring completely. Almost like its being choked if that makes any sense? Did some research and mechanic thought possibly a bad ignition coil and ignition module. Had both of those replaced and still no change with truck. He then thought bad computer. Had a new computer handy so he plugged and played with the new computer and nothing changed. WTF!!!! Did more research and possibly found the answer. New crankshaft position sensor?? Bought new sensor and went ahead and got new plugs and wires. Come to find out that when he installed the different engine, he did not do a relearn procedure on this newer engine like he was supposed to. So today, installed new sensor and that again STILL did not do anything. Now truck is throwing p0300 (random misfire) and P0101 (MAF out of range). But the MAF is new…. I cant perform a relearn procedure if the engine will not idle right. So at this point me and my mechanic are completely lost for ideas. We cannot figure this damn thing out? Is perhaps the timing on the crankshaft off again? Or what about fuel? Possibly spider fuel injectors are bad? I already replaced fuel filter about a year ago…….. Just a thought but I do have an aftermarket Spectre air intake system installed on my air filter and ironically after that install is when all the problems began. I am going to replace all the spark plugs and wires asap and see if that does anything but with my luck that is still not the issue. If there is any advice you have or anything that you can think of on what could be the problem and what steps to take next… Sorry this was long but I had to make this as detailed as possible for you. Thank you so much for ANY input that you may have.
New parts replaced:
Engine, transmission, MAF sensor, O2 sensors X 3, vacuum lines inspected, ignition coil and module, gutted cat converter, inspection of computer, crankshaft position sensor. Wires and plugs to be replaced next….
RESPONSE
Thank you for adding as much detail as you could. This helps a great deal. Going over what you have done. A compression test was a good test to perform. However all cylinders should have been done in order to compare the readings. All cylinders should be with in 20 – 30 psi of each other. If not, that cylinder has an issue. Possible blown head gasket, burnt valve, etc. I do not think you have a compression issue though. I have seen the spider injectors cause some issues similar to this. It is possible to replace an individual one but would recommend replacing all of them if you are going to do that. This would be the most common cause. But noticing that once you change the intake is when the issue started, I would put it back stock and see if it corrected the issue. Then you know it was the aftermarket part or connections. If the intake hoses are loose the MAF sensor will give an incorrect reading and cause some odd issues. This is where I would start, put it back stock. Clear codes. Test and read codes if problem persists. If P0302 comes back or P0300, pull all spark plugs and see if any of them look wet. If they do, replace the spider injectors.
When braking there is a noise that sounds like the shift lever interlock but it comes from the pedal area. I unplugged one of the ABS wires from ABS module and the ABS noise stopped. But doing that I now have no abs. The ABS works fine its just the noise and where it is from.
RESPONSE
Sounds like the ABS system is working and as it should. I am guessing the noise you are hearing is the usual ABS noise which is kind of a grown noise. This happens when you are on ice and braking or when one of the wheel speed sensors is reading improperly. This is a common issue when a hub bearing starts to fail. Some of the metal flakes from the worn bearing material affect the wheel speed sensor reading.
Replace the hub bearing assembly. The wheel speed sensor is inside the hub bearing and cannot be serviced separately.
I have a 2006 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx and the ABS light and traction control lights came on at the same time…. what could be wrong?
RESPONSE
Most common reason would be the ABS Sensor inside the hub bearing assembly. The entire hub bearing will have to be replaced. The hub bearing starts to wear and damages the internal speed sensor. This will cause the ABS Light and traction control light to come on. The good news is the car can be driven without fear of it braking down. However the traction control and the ABS will not be functional.
ABS Light
The IPC illuminates the ABS indicator when the following occurs.
| • | The electronic brake control module (EBCM) detects an ABS-disabling malfunction and sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination. |
| • | The IPC performs the bulb check. |
| • | The IPC detects a loss of serial data communication with the EBCM. |
| • | The EBCM sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination. |
Low Traction Indicator
The IPC illuminates the low traction indicator when the following occurs:
| • | The electronic brake control module (EBCM) detects a traction control event. The IPC receives a serial data message from the EBCM requesting illumination. |
| • | The IPC performs the displays test at the start of each ignition cycle. The indicator illuminates for approximately 3 seconds. |
Traction Control Light
The IPC illuminates the traction off indicator when the following occurs.
| • | The EBCM disables engine torque reduction due to a malfunction and sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination. |
| • | The driver manually disables VSES and engine torque reduction by pressing the traction control switch. The EBCM sends a serial data message to the IPC requesting illumination. |
The IPC flashes the traction off indicator if wheel slip is detected while engine torque reduction and brake pressure application are both disabled.
I had the starter, alternator, battery and wires to all those components replaced. Sadly when I picked it up, it started up that was great. The sad part is first the odometer didn’t work. I know how to reset that. But the worrying problem is when I drove it, it didn’t want to go into second gear. Its like the rpms just went up. You could hear the engine scream driving at low speeds. Usually that would be cool but this is my classic so its not cool at all . I think it may be a speed sensor or the transmission is toast. I don’t understand why it would go if it worked fine before hand. A rough idea of what it was like, imagine driving 10 miles an hour which I was the whole way home and then the engine was roaring rpming like it was at a drag strip going 80-90 which is this vehicles top out speed because its stock.
RESPONSE
Generally being low on transmission fluid will cause what you are describing. The transmission is slipping. If driven to hard or to long like this permanent damage may occur. If you where displeased with the performance you probably should have driven right back to the shop. I would have to guess it didn’t run at all when it was taken into the shop so they wouldn’t have any idea that it wasn’t like this when it was brought to them. But I am sure they would have been more than happy to check your transmission fluid for you.
Car has sat in driveway for almost a year due to ignition switch problems. I finally removed the switch and housing off the steering column. The electrical ignition switch is now exposed allowing me to take a screwdriver and turn it as if it were a key to start the car. However….upon first trying to start it, the battery which I bought 2 weeks prior to the car being parked in the driveway for a year, was bone dead. So I put it on a trickle charge over night. Upon putting it back in the car, turning the ignition to the on position, I have full electrical power….lights work….windows go up and down etc. When trying to START the car, it just “CLICKS” as if the battery was dead. What could the issue be as to why it wont start ?
RESPONSE
The BATTERY. When a battery is run completely dead it may take a trickle charger 2 to 3 days to charge depending upon the amperage at which it is being charged. There is enough juice in the battery to operate the lights and radio but not for the starter.Since the battery isn’t fully charged, the starter just clicks.
For Example: The radio may draw 5 amps and the lights may draw 30 amps, where the starter will draw 200 to 250 amps. Simple put, the starter requires a lot more juice to operate than that of the lights, windows and radio.
The fix would be to fully charge the battery or replace it with a new fully charged battery. Since the battery isn’t that old and money don’t come easy, I would opt for fully charging the battery. Also make sure there is no corrosion on the battery terminals between the terminal and the battery.
Your vehicle has a maintenance free battery. When it is time for a new battery, see your dealer/retailer for one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery‘s label.
For battery replacement, see your dealer/retailer or the service manual. To purchase a service manual, see Service Publications Ordering Information .
Warning: Battery posts, terminals, and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Warning! Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you are not careful. See Jump Starting for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
Infrequent Usage: If you drive your vehicle infrequently, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery. This will help keep the battery from running down.
Extended Storage: For extended storage of your vehicle, remove the black, negative (-) cable from the battery or use a battery trickle charger. This will help maintain the charge of the battery over an extended period of time.
You must close all doors and the liftgate before reconnecting the battery. After reconnecting the battery, you must press the unlock button on the keyless access transmitter. Failure to follow this procedure could result in the alarm sounding. Pressing unlock on the keyless access transmitter will stop the alarm.
Disconnect the negative battery cable (1). Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure .
Warning! Do not tip the battery over a 45 degree angle or acid could spill causing serious personal injury.
Caution!Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.
Warning! Do not tip the battery over a 45 degree angle or acid could spill causing serious personal injury.
Tighten
Tighten the battery hold down bolt to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the positive battery terminal bolt to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).
Does this car have a fuel filter and cabin filter?
RESPONSE
No Replacement needed for fuel filter. It is an integral part of the fuel pump. No Cabin Air Filter to replace either.
The fuel system is a returnless on-demand design. The fuel pressure regulator is a part of the fuel sender assembly, eliminating the need for a return pipe from the engine. A returnless fuel system reduces the internal temperature of the fuel tank by not returning hot fuel from the engine to the fuel tank. Reducing the internal temperature of the fuel tank results in lower evaporative emissions.
The fuel tank stores the fuel supply. An electric turbine style fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel tank. The fuel pump supplies high pressure fuel through the fuel filter contained in the fuel sender assembly and the fuel feed pipe to the Fuel Injection System. The fuel pump provides fuel at a higher rate of flow than is needed by the fuel injection system. The fuel pump also supplies fuel to a venturi pump located on the bottom of the fuel sender assembly. The function of the venturi pump is to fill the fuel sender assembly reservoir. The fuel pressure regulator, a part of the fuel sender assembly, maintains the correct fuel pressure to the fuel injection system. The fuel pump and sender assembly contains a reverse flow check valve. The check valve and the fuel pressure regulator maintain fuel pressure in the fuel feed pipe and the fuel rail in order to prevent long cracking times.
Hey there! I’ve got an odd issue with a 2005 Chevy Aveo with the oil light on. Earlier today I replaced the fuel pump because I was having problems getting it to start and it seems to have done the trick, but now when driving the engine makes a lot of noise when I give it gas and the check oil light comes on even though I’ve checked the oil and it’s fine. It’s got about 123,000 miles on it so I suppose I shouldn’t be surprised, but it seems like it’s another problem altogether. Is it possible that removing the negative battery cable caused a weird electrical quirk when I reconnected everything? Any ideas?
RESPONSE
Is it possible that removing the negative battery cable caused a weird electrical quirk when I reconnected everything?
Probably had nothing to do with it. The oil light comes on because of low oil pressure, not because the oil level is low. If the engine is making a knocking noise, the oil pump has gone out. If you drive it or run the engine this way permanent damage will occur. It doesn’t take long either. Just a few miles down the road without oil pressure and the engine is done. The internal components of the engine, specifically the rod and crank bearings, require oil pressure in order to get the oil to the places that need the lubrication it offers.
If your vehicle has low engine oil pressure, this light will stay on after you start your engine, or come on when you are driving.
This indicates that your engine is not receiving enough oil. The engine could be low on oil, or could have some other oil problem. Have it fixed immediately by your dealer.
The oil light could also come on in three other situations:
• When the ignition is on but the engine is not running, the light will come on as a test to show you it is working. The light will go out when you turn the ignition on. If it does not come on with the ignition on, you may have a problem with the fuse or bulb. Have it fixed right away.
• If you are idling at a stop sign, the light may blink on and then off.
• If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for a moment. This is normal.
Warning! Do not keep driving if the oil pressure is low . The engine can become so hot that it catches fire. Someone could be burned. Check the oil as soon as possible and have the vehicle serviced.
Caution! Lack of proper engine oil maintenance may damage the engine. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Always follow the maintenance schedule in this manual for changing engine oil.