The stop start system wasn’t working due to bad auxiliary battery. The Chevrolet dealership replaced the battery and drove 17 miles to road test and monitor the system to see if it was operating properly. Isn’t seventeen miles a lot of driving just to road test something that should activate within a short period of time? on the city streets, the environment for which the system was designed, that would be about 90 minutes of driving. seems like way too much mileage?
One could argue that is an excessive amount of mileage and time. Most only get 5 minutes if they are lucky. You received and over and beyond amount of time. Some would argue that you were lucky to have it tested to such great length. Seems like if you were charged and extra 1 1/2 labor, I could see why you might be upset. If you didn’t get charged, smile and say thank you.
There is a specific Relearn procedure for the battery sensor module that must be carried out when replacing the battery. There may be an extra amount of driving involved.
Note: This procedure is only for vehicles equipped with a Battery Sensor Module. Attempting to run this procedure without a Battery Sensor Module may cause unwanted results. If this occurs, the BCM will need to be reset with an ignition cycle.
The B110 Battery Sensor Module provides primary battery voltage and current data to the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM uses a Battery State Estimator algorithm to determine the state of charge of the primary 12 volt battery for use in controlling the stop/start feature. The battery state estimator monitors the voltage differences between the ECM and B110 Battery Sensor Module and current differences between the battery current sensor and the B110 Battery Sensor Module .The B110 Battery Sensor Module learn procedure must be performed after either the battery has been replaced or charged with an external battery charger.
Apply the parking brake.
Ignition ON, engine OFF.
Install a scan tool.
Clear all DTCs before proceeding.
Navigate to the Configuration/Reset Functions menu of the BCM.
Select the Battery Sensor Module procedure and follow the directions displayed on the screen.
How do I disconnect the engine from the transmission in my 1952 Chevy Styleline Deluxe. Need help with engine removal.
Disconnect all electrical wiring that includes wiring harness, etc. Remove radiator. Remove engine fan assembly so you don’t bend it on removal. Support the engine with an engine hoist. Support the transmission from underneath or it will want to drop. Remove the retaining bolts from the Engine mounts in addition to the transmission bell housing. Remove torque converter blots and starter. Lift engine with hoist just enough to clear the mounts. Adjust transmission support. Finally, wiggle engine and pull away from transmission.
I have an engine misfire when engine is cold. If its put into reverse with foot on brake, you can hear a knocking noise that stops after engine warms up. Thanks.
A consistent engine misfire will eventually cause the check engine light to illuminate. Once the check engine light has come on and stays on the first step would be to pull the engine trouble codes. These Engine trouble codes will indicate the exact cylinder that is having the issue. This will make it easier on the wallet instead of throwing parts at it.
A knocking noise is not good. If it is being caused as a spark knock it may be as simple as contaminated fuel. Once the engine warms up the knock sensor is able to correct the engine timing and prevent the engine knocking noise. Once the fuel tank is below half full try filling up at a different fueling station with the Highest octane available. This will mix with the fuel already in the tank and raise the octane level. You may need to do this the next couple of fill ups. I think this would be the best first course of action.
Internal Engine Knocking Noise
Rod knocking is referring to the engine rod bearings falling. This causes an engine knocking noise that generally will get louder when the engine is revved. Normally will become more pronounced once the engine is warm. I do not think this is the case with your engine but thought I would share for other readers.
A Main bearing knocking noise refers to the engine cranks main bearings failing. With the main bearing failure the knocking is more pronounced at engine idle. The engine knocking noise will tend to go away when the engine is revved. Normally will become more pronounced once the engine is warm. Again, I do not think this is the case with your engine but thought I would share for other readers.
It lets me shift from first to second but no other gears. Can I bleed my clutch or do I need a whole new clutch kit?
If in neutral with the engine off you are able to shift into all gears then you will need to replace the hydraulic clutch assembly and possibly the clutch slave cylinder assembly. If you are still unable to shift into all gears, there is internal transmission damage.
Hydraulic Clutch System Description and Operation
Clutch Spin Down Time
Check the clutch spin down time as follows:
•Apply the parking brake. Block the vehicle wheels.
•Shift the manual transmission into neutral.
•Start the engine. Run the engine at idle speed.
•Engage the clutch.
•Disengage the clutch. Wait 9 seconds.
•Shift the transmission into reverse.
Clutch Driving Members
The clutch driving members are 2 flat surfaces machined to a smooth finish. They are:
•The rear face of the engine flywheel
•The front face of the clutch pressure plate
Clutch Driven Members
The driven member is the clutch driven plate. The clutch driven plate has a splined hub. The splined hub slides lengthwise along the splines of the input shaft. The splined hub drives the input shaft through these same splines. The driving and driven members are held together with a spring pressure. This pressure is exerted by a diaphragm spring in the clutch pressure plate.
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid
Caution! Do not use mineral or paraffin-base oil in the clutch hydraulic system. These fluids may damage the rubber parts in the cylinders.
Hydraulic Clutch Operating Members
The clutch system consists of the following components:
•A master cylinder with a reservoir
•An concentric slave cylinder connected to hydraulic tubing
•With the depression of the clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder becomes pressurized from the force of the push rod into the master cylinder. This forces hydraulic fluid into the tubing from the master cylinder to the concentric slave cylinder. The concentric slave cylinder then engages by pushing the releasing bearing into the diaphragm spring and release the clutch. A hole in the cowl panel accommodates the master cylinder. A quick connect coupling helps route the hydraulic tubing. the concentric slave cylinder is inside the transmission and on the input bearing retainer. The hydraulic control system can be replaced without having to gain access to the clutch system internal components , simply engage the quick connect coupling mounted through the transmission housing. No adjustments to the clutch system are necessary. as the clutch wears, the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir changes to compensates for clear wear. A new system will have fluid in the reservoir. An electrical switch on the push rod has two functions: One function is a clutch interlock, ensuring the engine does not start unless the clutch pedal is engaged, positioned to the floor. The second function is to cut off the cruise-control system, if equipped, when the clutch pedal is engaged.
Front brakes engage while driving at any speed mainly hwy
Sounds like you may have a sticking brake caliper. The brake would tend to drag and become worse the longer you drive. It would not be as noticeable when first driving until it has a chance to heat up and expand. Your vehicle is equipped with ABS. Is the ABS light on? If the ABS light is illuminated there may be an issue with your hub bearing failing. This is quite common.
Disc Brake System Description and Operation
System Component Description
The disc brake system consists of the following components:
Disc Brake Pads: Applies mechanical output force from the hydraulic brake calipers to friction surfaces of brake rotors.
Disc Brake Rotors: Uses mechanical output force applied to friction surfaces from the disc brake pads to slow speed of tire and wheel assembly rotation.
Disc Brake Pad Hardware: Secures disc brake pads firmly in proper relationship to the hydraulic brake calipers. Enables a sliding motion of brake pads when mechanical output force is applied.
Disc Brake Caliper Hardware: Provides mounting for hydraulic brake caliper and secures the caliper firmly in proper relationship to caliper bracket. Enables a sliding motion of the brake caliper to the brake pads when mechanical output force is applied.
Mechanical output force is applied from the hydraulic brake caliper pistons to the inner brake pads. As the pistons press the inner brake pads outward, the caliper housings draw the outer brake pads inward. This allows the output force to be equally distributed. The brake pads apply the output force to the friction surfaces on both sides of the brake rotors, which slows the rotation of the tire and wheel assemblies. The correct function of both the brake pad and brake caliper hardware is essential for even distribution of braking force.
Will it damage my truck if I up-size my rims from the factory 17″ to 20″ rims ????
It will not damage the truck. The outside tire diameter should remain the same. This will ensure the speedometer readings will not change. However you will find that the steering will be affected at park and slower speeds. It may be more difficult to steer when parking and moving from park. The factory power steering pump is not designed to work with the extra tread that will be exposed to the ground surface. Other than that, smooth sailing. You can avoid this if your 20″ tires do not exceed the factory width. 20′ Rims were an option for this vehicle.
I tried this on a 2006 Chevy Silverado and it was bothersome enough that I removed the 20″ rims and sold them. I put the factory 17″ rims back on. They don’t look as good, but no steering issues is worth it to me.
My 2000 Chevy Impala has become very sluggish. It almost has no take off power, starting to die and really hard to start.
Start with pulling any check engine light codes and post them below for more information. Check for need of tune up. If you have recently changed fuel stations, it may be related to the fuel. A hard start issue can be attributed to a leaking fuel pressure regulator. This is usually accompanied by a gasoline smell.