A MESSAGE CAME UP THAT SAID “TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION” WHAT DOES THAT MEAN ??
Transmission malfunction message
Besides the obvious that there is something wrong that involves the transmission, it simply means that a diagnostic trouble code has been stored. The codes are sored in the vehicles TCM – Transmission Control Module. The use of a scan tool will be required to extract the codes. There is no other way than guessing to determine why the malfunction was indicated.
Transmission Malfunction Displays
The IPC provides message center displays to indicate transmission malfunctions. The IPC receives the transmission message request from the BCM. The BCM receives the transmission message request from the TCM.
truck will crank in park and you can shift to reverse and still runs but when you shift to neutral or drive engine shuts down and losses spark. have installed 2 new park neutral switches and they do the same thing. have plugged one in not installed on the truck with the switch in park so it would crank then put it in drive and truck runs but the trans will not shift.
Maybe ignition switch looses power when the shifter is moved? Tough to say but luckily you are experiencing a loss of spark. Since you know you are not getting spark all you need to do is diagnose it. I have created a no start diagnostic chart that provides steps to assist in diagnosing an issue.
My back hatch window will not respond from pushing the button beneath the glass, however it will respond by using the key button My back hatch door will not respond with the button beneath the license plate, or with the key button. I have 3 questions. 1. Why will the glass button only work from key? 2. If I need a new part, do I have to get both the assembly AND the actuator, or just the actuator? 3. Is a new either assembly with actuator, or just the actuator, going to fix the glass opening also, or is the glass button beneath the glass, a separate (additional) part? Thank you.
Q1: My guess would be there is an issue with the button underneath the glass.
Q2: The assembly should include the actuator.
Q3: Separate additional part.
There are 2 liftgate ajar switches. This may have an unwanted effect.
van has had cam synchronizer noise and frequent dying for couple weeks. Bought the part to fix it but for the last couple days no noise or dying? The sound was like screeching when starting and would screech right before dying. Can the problem correct itself? Or should I have it replaced anyway? No engine light and serpentine belt is fine.
I would stick with the old adage “don’t fix it if it aint broke”.
Camshaft Synchronizer Replacement
1.Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2.Drain the cooling system.
3.Disconnect the camshaft position sensor (CMP) electrical connector.
4.Remove the CMP sensor bolts and the CMP sensor.
5.Disconnect the coolant bypass hose from the coolant pump outlet tube.
6.Remove the 2 coolant pump outlet tube bolts and position aside the coolant outlet tube.
7.Remove the accessory drive belt. •Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner counterclockwise.
•Push the spring clip toward the belt tensioner to lock the accessory drive belt tensioner in place.
8.NOTE: The bolt that is positioned under the power steering pressure tube fitting will remain with the pump.
Remove the 4 power steering pump bolts and position aside the power steering pump.
9. CAUTION: Do not turn the crankshaft or the camshaft after the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke or the fuel system timing will be out of time with the engine and possibly cause engine damage.
Rotate the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
10.Remove the camshaft synchronizer-to-engine front cover bolt.
11.Remove the camshaft synchronizer. •The oil pump driveshaft might not come out with the camshaft synchronizer. If so, retrieve the oil pump driveshaft before proceeding.
1. CAUTION: After installation, do not loosen the synchronizer bolt and rotate the synchronizer assembly. The synchronizer assembly is not adjustable. Do not loosen the synchronizer bolt after the alignment tool has been removed in order to align the CMP electrical connector for any reason. If the electrical connector is not in the correct position, the synchronizer assembly must be removed, the alignment tool and the assembly reinstalled if the engine has not been rotated from top dead center (TDC) of the compression on the No. 1 cylinder.
CAUTION: A special tool must be used when installing a synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage.
Install the special tool on the camshaft synchronizer by rotating the tool until it engages both the notch in the camshaft synchronizer housing and the notch in the armature.
2. CAUTION: It is very important to coat the gear on the camshaft synchronizer with clean engine oil prior to installation. Failure to do so could result in gear failure.
NOTE: During installation, the arrow on the special tool will rotate clockwise until the oil pump intermediate shaft and camshaft gear engages.
Install the camshaft synchronizer housing assembly so the arrow on the special tool is 54 degrees from the centerline of the engine.
3.Install the camshaft synchronizer-to-engine front cover bolt. •Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
4.Position the power steering pump and install the 4 bolts. •Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
5.Install the accessory drive belt. •Position the accessory drive belt onto the engine.
•Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner counterclockwise until spring clip releases.
6.Position the coolant pump outlet tube and install the 2 bolts. •Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
7.Connect the coolant bypass hose to the coolant pump outlet tube.
8.Install the CMP sensor and install the bolts. •Tighten to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
9.Connect the CMP electrical connector.
10.Fill and bleed the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
11.Connect the battery ground cable.
Just changed transmission and when i started car it did not switch into gear when i moved shifter. Even in park it was at a free roll. Why isn’t transmission engaged?
Sounds like you may have not hooked up the shifter or some of the linkage correctly. That would be the first thing to check. Then check the rest of your installation. Did you connect the gear selector switch? Might not be a bad idea to check the fuses just in case. Fuse #47(shifter fuse), #3, #49, #46 and #2 come to mind.
Did my vehicle come with a coolant recovery tank? There is a long tube from the radiator that looks original but no tank. If yes, would a universal overflow tank do the trick? Thank you.
Yes and Yes.
Coolant Recovery Tank – Overflow Tank
One of the most common, if not THE most common, problems associated with trailer towing is engine overheating. If you have a cooling system without an expansion tank, you’ll definitely need to get an aftermarket expansion tank kit, preferably one with at least a 2 quart capacity. These kits are easily installed on the radiator’s overflow hose, and come with a pressure cap designed for expansion tanks.
transmission wont shift into 3rd goes into like a neutral until i slow down or shift to l1
Sounds like the transmission fluid level is low or there is internal damage. Check the fluid level first and note the color. If the level is low top it off and retest. If the fluid level is full and looks burnt or dark, this is a sign of internal clutches being burnt. Clear or clean looking fluid would indicate and internal electrical component failure.
Transmission Shift Linkage Adjustments
With the engine stopped, place the transmission selector lever at the steering column in the D position for the C6 or the D overdrive position for the AOD and E4OD, and hold the lever against the stop by hanging an 8 lb. weight from the lever handle.
Loosen the shift rod adjusting nut at the transmission lever.
Shift the manual lever at the transmission to the D position, two detents from the rear. On the F-150 with 4WD and Bronco, move the bell crank lever.
With the selector lever and transmission manual lever in the D or D overdrive position, tighten the adjusting nut to 12–18 ft. lbs. (16–24 Nm). Do not allow the rod or shift lever to move while tightening the nut. Remove the weight.
Check the operation of the shift linkage.
With the engine stopped, place the transmission selector lever at the steering column in the D position for the C6 or the D overdrive position for the AODE-W, 4R70W and E4OD.
Hang a 3 lb. (1.4 kg) weight on the end of the shift lever.
Pry the end of the shift cable from the transmission control lever ball stud.
Unlock the adjuster body, release the lock tab on the top side of the cable by pushing down on the 2 tangs.
Check to be sure the cable moves freely without binding.
Move the lever on the transmission all the way rearward and then 3 detent positions forward.
Holding the cable end fitting, push the cable rearward until the end fitting lines up with the manual control lever ball stud.
Push up on the lock tab to lock the adjuster body in the correctly adjusted position. Be sure the locator tab is properly seated in the bracket.
Make certain the shift cable is clipped to the floor pan at the white cable mark and the cable is routed into the tunnel.
Adjust the shift indicator pointer while the transmission is still in the overdrive position.
Remove the weight and check the control lever in all shift positions.
It’s the 6.0L Powerstroke. Just replaced transmission and now the transmission thinks it’s in drive and will not shift out. Nor will it crank.
First thing would be to double check your installation. Look close at the gear selector switch. Did you use the old one off the old transmission or did you install a new one. Was it installed correctly if changed. Did the new one look the same as the old one. Could it have been installed wrong? Just a few questions to answer in order to help determine the cause of the problem.