Apr 122017

2013 Ford Mustang

My clutch has a whining noise

My clutch has a whining noise when not engaged but as soon as I depress the clutch it spools down. Once the clutch is released it spools back up to a whine. Took car to dealership and they said the roller bearings are out and the synchronizers are bad. My question is if my car is sitting in neutral should my clutch be whining even if the synchronizers are bad? As for the roller bearings, wouldn’t it only make noise if the car was in motion or moving?


The whining noise is coming from the release bearing(throw out bearing). The release bearing is built as part of the Clutch Slave Cylinder. The syncros may be bad but the noise has nothing to do with it. Bad syncros would just make it difficult to go in gear and possibly pop out of gear.

Worn or damaged release bearing

  • Rotate the release bearing while applying pressure. If the bearing rotation is rough, install a new clutch slave cylinder.

Clutch Release Bearing

The clutch system is disengaged when the clutch pedal is pressed and engaged when the clutch pedal is released. When the clutch pedal is pressed, it pushes the clutch master cylinder push rod and piston, which transmits hydraulic pressure to the clutch slave cylinder. The slave cylinder compresses the clutch pressure plate diaphragm spring through the release bearing, releasing the pressure on the clutch disc. This displacement removes the spring load from the clutch pressure plate and eliminates the coupling friction between the engine and the transmission.

Apr 112017

1985 Ford F250

Have to push start

Truck set up for 3 years. I put in new fuel, battery, had to push start, then started well till it sits for a few hours, then have to push start again.

Replace the starter if you find battery positive at the “S” terminal with the ignition key in the “START” position when it won’t start.

How to Test Starter

Place the transmission in N or P. Disconnect the vacuum line to the Thermactor® bypass valve, if equipped, before performing any cranking tests. After tests, run the engine for 3 minutes before connecting the vacuum line.

Starter Cranks Slowly

  1. Connect jumper cables as shown in the Jump Starting procedure in Section 1. If, with the aid of the booster battery, the starter now cranks normally, check the condition of the battery. Recharge or replace the battery, as necessary. Clean the cables and battery posts and make sure connections are tight.
  2. If Step 1 does not correct the problem, clean and tighten the connections at the starter relay and battery ground on the engine. You should not be able to rotate the eyelet terminals easily, by hand. Also make sure the positive cable is not shorted to ground.
  3. If the starter still cranks slowly, it must be replaced.

Starter Relay Operates But Starter Doesn’t Crank

  1. Connect jumper cables as shown in the Jump Starting procedure in Section 1. If, with the aid of the booster battery, the starter now cranks normally, check the condition of the battery. Recharge or replace the battery, as necessary. Clean the cables and battery posts and make sure connections are tight.
  2. If Step 1 does not correct the problem, clean and tighten the connections at the starter and relay. Make sure the wire strands are secure in the eyelets.
  3. On models with a fender mounted solenoid, if the starter still doesn’t crank, it must be replaced.
  4. On vehicles with starter mounted solenoid: Connect a jumper cable across terminals B and M of the starter solenoid. If the starter does not operate, replace the starter. If the starter does operate, replace the solenoid.
    Making the jumper connections could cause a spark. Battery jumper cables or equivalent, should be used due to the high current in the starting system.

Starter Doesn’t Crank — Relay Chatters or Doesn’t Click

  1. Connect jumper cables as shown in the Jump Starting procedure in Section 1. If, with the aid of the booster battery, the starter now cranks normally, check the condition of the battery. Recharge or replace the battery, as necessary. Clean the cables and battery posts and make sure connections are tight.
  2. If Step 1 does not correct the problem, remove the push-on connector from the relay (red with blue stripe wire). Make sure the connection is clean and secure and the relay bracket is grounded.
  3. If the connections are good, check the relay operation with a jumper wire. Remove the push-on connector from the relay and, using a jumper wire, jump from the now exposed terminal on the starter relay to the main terminal (battery side or battery positive post). If this corrects the problem, check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch and the wiring in the starting circuit for open or loose connections.
  4. If a jumper wire across the relay does not correct the problem, replace the relay.

Start Spins But Doesn’t Crank Engine

  1. Remove the starter.
  2. Check the armature shaft for corrosion and clean or replace, as necessary.
  3. If there is no corrosion, replace the starter drive.


Apr 112017

2001 Ford EscapeI blew a hose that runs from the thermostat housing, auto places either swear its a vacuum hose ( theres a slice in it & antifreeze sprays out. When looking at the engine from the front, the hose is on the left of the thermostat & runs under the water pump pulley. This is the only car I have to take my husband to his chemo & dr appts, among other things. All I need to know is what hose it is, so I can either order one or get it from a junkyard. It feels like a short hose, but I haven’t removed the cover, belt & pulley yet. Can anyone please help?


Without seeing a picture it is difficult to know for certain but I am thinking the “Bypass Tube” may be what you are looking for.

Bypass Tube Location

bypass tube


Apr 072017

1993 Ford RangerI’m currently having a problem with my Ranger choking out or stalling right after it starts. It will run intermittently from time to time but only for a few minutes. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, flushed the tank, replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, air filter, removed catalytic converter, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned throttle body, and basically at a loss.


Ignition Module

I have found that the most common cause for this would be a faulty ignition control module.

The part is less than $50 and can be sent to the house.

Replace Ignition Control Module 3.0L engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the distributor assembly from the engine.
3. Place the distributor on the workbench and remove the module retaining screws. Pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and back up to disengage the module terminal from the connector in the distributor base. The module may be pulled toward the flange and away from the distributor.

NOTE: Do not attempt to lift the module from the mounting surface, except as explained above. The pins will break at the distributor module connector.

To install:

4.Coat the base plate of the TFI ignition module uniformly with 1 ⁄ 32 inch of silicone dielectric compound WA–10 or equivalent.
5.Position the module on the distributor base mounting flange. Carefully position the module toward the distributor bowl and engage the three connector pins securely.
6.Install the retaining screws. Tighten to 15–35 inch lbs (1.7–4.0 Nm), starting with the upper right screw.
7.Install the distributor into the engine. Install the cap and wires.
8.Reconnect the negative battery cable.
9.Recheck the initial timing. Adjust if necessary.

If the check engine light is on you can pull the engine trouble codes without a scan tool.


Apr 042017

My truck wont start. But when I tap the battery cables red post I get fire. Then when I try to start it, it just clicks and goes back to no fire. Help? It is a 1999 Ford Explorer Sport.


Sounds like you just need to do some cleaning. Remove the battery cable ends and clean the inside of the the cable ends. Also clean the outside of the battery terminal.

clean battery terminal endsClean battery terminal ends in 5 easy steps

  1. Pour hot water over the outside of the battery terminal. This will remove any unwanted corrosion (Works better than baking soda and a brush in my opinion).
  2. Remove battery terminal end from battery. Clean battery terminal ends on the inside with a tiny wire brush or tool. I like to use a pocket knife and scratch the surface area. Make sure all surface area has been cleaned.
  3. Clean the outside of the battery terminal. Use a wire brush or tool and clean the outside area of the terminal. Make sure all contact area is cleaned.
  4. Install battery terminal end in battery.
  5. Done! No need to coat the surface with anything.

Tip. Attach a battery charger or battery jump pack to the battery before removing the terminal ends. This will save the radio stations and time. I use a memory saver that plugs into the cigar lighter and has a 9-volt battery that attaches to it like this one.

Mar 292017

2003 Ford MustangI’m aware how crazy this is gonna sound, but please bear with me for I drive this car every day. My Mustang will not run properly if it is over 65° outside temperature. When it gets warmer than that, I will be driving along and it will start to sputter, cough, backfire, knock, and eventually die. I will pull over, turn it off, let it rest 5 minutes or so, turn the key 3 ones and let the fuel pump prime and she will generally start back up and run fine. The warmer the temperature outside, the longer she has to rest and the shorter the length I can drive before I have to shut her down again. With summer already here in March, this is a critical problem because sometimes I can’t pull over and get stuck in a lane of traffic. I cannot sell her because I took her to a dealership to fix this problem and they put in a $3900 computer. The problem is not fixed AND no one can hook up to my car and run diagnostics because it saying “linking failure”. I have to have a dependable vehicle and unfortunately it has to be this POS. Thanks for your help in advance. I promise I’m not crazy!


This could be one of those that is as simple as replacing the Mass Air Flow Sensor. But you will need to be able to connect to the engines on board computer to run diagnostics. Without the codes it is just guessing and throwing parts at it.

Linking Failure

Concentrate your efforts first on fixing the “linking failure” issue. Once you can connect and get the codes we can pinpoint the cause. This can sometimes be remedied by checking and replacing blown fuses.

Additionally when the engine will not start is when to check to see if it is not getting fuel or spark. Knowing what is it isn’t getting may help rule out some options.

Mar 292017



Transmission malfunction message

Besides the obvious that there is something wrong that involves the transmission, it simply means that a diagnostic trouble code has been stored. The codes are sored in the vehicles TCM – Transmission Control Module.  The use of a scan tool will be required to extract the codes. There is no other way than guessing to determine why the malfunction was indicated.

Transmission Malfunction Displays

The IPC provides message center displays to indicate transmission malfunctions. The IPC receives the transmission message request from the BCM. The BCM receives the transmission message request from the TCM.

Mar 182017

2000 Ford Rangertruck will crank in park and you can shift to reverse and still runs but when you shift to neutral or drive engine shuts down and losses spark. have installed 2 new park neutral switches and they do the same thing. have plugged one in not installed on the truck with the switch in park so it would crank then put it in drive and truck runs but the trans will not shift.


Maybe ignition switch looses power when the shifter is moved? Tough to say but luckily you are experiencing a loss of spark. Since you know you are not getting spark all you need to do is diagnose it. I have created a no start diagnostic chart that provides steps to assist in diagnosing an issue.

Mar 172017

Ford EscapeMy back hatch window will not respond from pushing the button beneath the glass, however it will respond by using the key button My back hatch door will not respond with the button beneath the license plate, or with the key button. I have 3 questions. 1. Why will the glass button only work from key? 2. If I need a new part, do I have to get both the assembly AND the actuator, or just the actuator? 3. Is a new either assembly with actuator, or just the actuator, going to fix the glass opening also, or is the glass button beneath the glass, a separate (additional) part? Thank you.


Q1: My guess would be there is an issue with the button underneath the glass.

Q2: The assembly should include the actuator.

Q3: Separate additional part.

There are 2 liftgate ajar switches. This may have an unwanted effect.

Liftgate Ajar Wiring Diagram