What are labor hours to replace transmission connector Part #AE8Z-7G276-A.
I have located the part and it appears to be a wiring harness. I do not show the hours in the labor guide. Generally electrical work is performed by the hour. However I can provide you with this. It only takes 6 hours to remove and reinstall the entire transmission. So the hours had best be well below that.
A day after I had the 4wheel drive actuator on the passenger side replaced. I was driving along and the front end started shaking like a tire was about to come off. By the time I pulled over it was just a steady vibration. Now when I hit any kind a bump I can feel it in the steering wheel and the pedals. I’ve put all new tires and alignment, both front wheel bearings, brakes and rotors and sway bar links on with no change. I took it to our local Ford garage where they told me everything in the front end is tight and in good working order. Please help
This is one that is just going to have to be looked at. You may want to take it to a different shop and get a new look with fresh eyes.
Van starts shuddering when I Accelerate , has low power. Idles fine. Shudders until it shifts into passing gear, runs smooth until it drops into driving gear and then starts shuddering again. What could the problem be?
Generally has to do with the torque converter and or other internal parts sticking. Not using the manufacturers recommended transmission fluid may also cause this situation. If this started just after a transmission fluid change they may have used the wrong fluid.
What I would do first would be to have the transmission fluid flushed and filter changed. Then I would add in some “Shudder Fixx”. All you have to do is add it to the existing transmission fluid. Yes, I have done this before with great success.
Check charging system light came on while driving. Is it safe to drive?
When the check charging light comes on it indicates the battery is no longer being charged. This means the entire vehicle is now running on the battery until the battery dies. And it won’t take long to drain the battery. So is it safe to drive, not really. Could you drive it a couple miles up the road? possibly without issue but no guarantees can be made.
The car cranks over but has no spark, no fuel pressure. The check engine light won’t turn on when the key is turned to run. I also can’t get my scan tool to link up to the computer.
I have this 1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0L and no crank no start I’ve done every thing I can think but listen to this just for kicks I hook up a jumper wire and hook it up to the EEC to a solid red wire and it started several times and then it wood not start after that. What now I don’t want to give up I know it works good Explorer.
I’m getting code p0351 from my 2007 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor and I’m wondering what it means and what I need to do to fix. My car drives really ruff and horrible on gas since this code appeared. Please help registration is due in June probably will not pass smog.
Ignition Coil ‘A’ Primary/Secondary Circuit
Each ignition circuit is continuously monitored by the Engine Control Module (ECM). The test fails when the ECM does not receive a valid pulse signal from the ignition coil.
The ignition system on the vehicle uses individual ignition coils for each cylinder. The Engine Control Module (ECM) controls each ignition coil operation. The ECM sends a ON/OFF signal to energize the ignition coil to create a spark at the spark plug when a spark is required at the cylinder.
Looking for gut reaction to this truck – Like are they ‘nightmares’ – – this Ranger is an XLT – Supercab – Stepside – 6 cyl – auto – 4×4 – – which looks to be in excellent condition inside and out – – thoughts?
RESPONSE
I like the Ford Ranger. For the 1999 though, I would steer clear of the 4.0 SOHC engine. They are common to issues with the timing chain components failing. When the timing components start to fail you will hear a distinct knocking coming from between the engine and transmission. The knocking noise is coming from the rear timing chain guides. Expensive to repair. Other than that, my gut reaction is go for it.
Make sure you look it over and perform a thorough inspection. You may want to review our Used car buying guide for some great tips.
2000 Ford Escape wont startWhile sitting at a stop light car quietly stalled. I have checked spark plugs, injectors functioning, engine rotating, has oil, temp Gage was normal, has plenty of gas, What could it be?
Try spraying some starting fluid in the air filter. If it starts you know it is a fuel related issue. Use the link provided to take advantage of the no start diagnostics chart. Follow the steps on the chart to help isolate the problem.
So the other day the temp gauge was reading hot. So I refilled the radiator with what must have been almost the full amount of water. Around 3 or 4 gallons at least if I had to guess.
The car was running fine and dandy after I drove on the highway about 20 miles. Then I saw that there was some fluid dripping when I backed out of my parking spot the next time I drove. I guessed this could have been water that I spilled trying to put in the radiator fill area. There was no fluid underneath when I looked the next location I parked.
So last night I was on the highway. And I had to give it a lot more gas to keep the speed up and it eventually died out on the freeway.
I thought it was the oil so I added 2 quarts of oil. I also refilled the water in the radiator. After that the car cranked and I drove another 5 miles, it started struggling again then died.
I did some research but cant figure out what the issue is. I’m guessing there may be a crack in the radiator and there is a slow leak?
The car will crank up and turn over if I rev the engine and give it some gas. But you have to keep revving the engine or it cuts out and dies.
I am having the car towed to a mechanic. And just want to have an idea of the issue before I go there. I know sometimes they can try and sell you on a lot of things when there really only needs to be a minor fix. I bought the car for 1200 dollars and have had it for a while so I am in a position where I have to weigh the options financially.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Good thinking wanting to see your mechanic armed with knowledge. You stated you filled it with “water”. If you do not use 50/50 water and coolant the engine will overheat every time. From the sounds of it the repair may end up costing you what you paid for the car. If the engine was overheated bad enough, it may have blown a head gasket. So you would be looking at that initial repaired followed by the cost for whatever was leaking in the first place. Once you have the car diagnosed and are presented with a quote, post it below and I’ll take a look at it.