Jun 072017

 Ford EscortCan I put a 1.9 4 cyl with transmission from a 1993 ford escort Lx into a 1998 ford escort se..? If i can…will i have to change or modify anything ?

Simple answer. No

Long answer. Anything is possible. You would have to change the computer system and wiring and mounts and exhaust and sub-frame and, and more work than it is worth in my opinion. Then you would be looking at being held to a different standard when it came to any emissions checks.

Here are the wiring diagrams for the transmissions for both vehicles for a quick visual comparison.

1993 Ford Escort Transmission Wiring Diagram


1998 Ford Escort Transmission Wiring Diagram

Jun 062017

2003 Ford F350

Limp mode and mechanic wrench symbol on dash

Okay limp mode and mechanic wrench symbol on dash !
Changed batteries new ones then someone suggested alternator replaced that new one
Nothing changed towed back home 250 km then lights went off
Ran fine day into city on highway turned off started next day went on gravel about 18 km tried going above 110 noticed lagging on accelerate then limp mode wrench again? Next day off again ? What do I do ? Scared to drive in case I have to get tow again


Jun 062017

1990 Ford MustangIdle speed rise and fall

Car started but could hear idle speed rise and fall. Headlights or radio did not work any more. As soon as put in gear car would stall. That’s about as simple as I can make it so some idea will be appreciated. 🙂 1990 ford mustang gt 5.0 liter EFI. distributor type. 4 speed trans.

Sounds like an electrical issue that is most likely related to some poor connections at the battery.

Jun 062017

 Ford Focus

Temperature gauge jumps up

After I have driven my car, the next time I start it, the temperature gauge jumps up and the car smells like something is hot. It will also rise if I am idling at red light or when the key is on, but the car is not running. After a few seconds, the gauge will start to drop and return to normal temperature. The coolant reservoir is full and I cannot find a reason for the temperature gauge to be spiking. It does not do it during the winter, when the weather is cold or the first time I start my car, only in warm weather and after I have already driven the car that day.

The plastic tubing around my battery cable also melted off. I am not sure if this is related, but it seems unusual. Any ideas what could be causing the spike in the temperature gauge and the hot smell?

temp gauge


Jun 052017

2004 Ford EscapeLoss of power, struggles to reach 25 mph. Trouble codes: p1120, po113, po403, po511. I replaced TPS sensor. Checked for vacuum leaks and seem to hear vacuum leak at egr valve. What to do?Also, when idling,is there supposed to be constant vacuum to the egr valve?


Ford Code P1120 – Throttle Position Sensor Out of Range

The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) responds to the accelerator pedal movement. The TPS is a rotary potentiometer sensor that provides a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) that is linearly proportional to the throttle plate/shaft position. As the TPS is rotated by the throttle shaft, the following operating conditions are determined by the PCM:

  • Closed throttle (includes idle or deceleration)
  • Part throttle (includes cruise or moderate acceleration)
  • Wide open throttle (includes maximum acceleration or de-choke on crank)
  • Throttle angle rate

Ford Code P1120 Possible causes

  • Faulty throttle position sensor
  • Throttle position sensor harness is open or shorted
  • TPS circuit poor electrical connection
  • TPS not properly adjusted
Jun 012017

1985 Ford F150

Truck loses power intermittently

My truck, a 1985 Ford F150 5.8 liter V8 4-barrel Carb,  has dual fuel tanks not sure that is necessary for this problem. I have changed the fuel pump fuel filters, had the fuel pickups rebuilt in the tanks and had the carburetor rebuilt. The problem is that when driving in high temps (above 90 degrees) the truck loses power intermittently, similar to running out of gas, typically starts on an incline and problem does not always appear. Any advise on what is going on would be helpful.

Sounds like the float level needs to be adjusted in the carburetor. The fact that it doesn’t seem to happen until you start on an incline is what leads me to this thought. The other thought would be vapor lock when the temp is over 90. Leave you fuel cap off once and test.

Carburetor Troubleshooting

The best way to diagnose a bad carburetor is to eliminate all other possible sources of the problem. If the carburetor is suspected to be the problem, first perform all of the adjustments.. If this doesn’t correct the difficulty, then check the following. Check the ignition system to make sure that the spark plugs, breaker points, and condenser are in good condition and adjusted to the proper specifications. Examine the emission control equipment to make sure that all the vacuum lines are connected and none are blocked or clogged. Check the ignition timing adjusting. Check all the vacuum lines on the engine for loose connections, splits or breaks. Torque the carburetor and intake manifold attaching bolts to the proper specifications. If, after performing all of these checks and adjustments, the problem is still not solved, then you can safely assume that the carburetor is the source of the problem.

Holley Model 4180-C 4-V (Dry Adjustment)

The float adjustment is a preliminary fuel level adjustment only. The final adjustment (Wet) must be performed after the carburetor has been installed on the engine.

With the fuel bowls and the float assemblies removed, hold the fuel bowls upside down and turn the adjusting nuts until the floats are parallel with the top of the fuel bowls.

Holley Model 4180-C 4-V (Wet Adjustment)

Fig. 4: Holley 4180 float level adjustment
carburetor float adjustment

NOTE: The fuel pump pressure and volume must be to specifications prior to performing the following adjustments.

  1. Operate the engine to normalize engine temperatures and place the vehicle on a flat surface.
  2. Remove the air cleaner, and run the engine at 1,000 rpm for about 30 seconds to stabilize the fuel level.
  3. Stop the engine and remove the sight plug on the side of the primary carburetor bowl.
  4. Check the fuel level. It should be at the bottom of the sight plug hole. If fuel spills out when the sight plug is removed, lower the fuel level. If the fuel level is below the sight glass hole, raise the fuel level.
    Do not loosen the lock screw or nut, or attempt to adjust the fuel level with the sight glass plug removed or the engine running as fuel may spray out creating a fire hazard.
  5. Adjust the front level as necessary by loosening the lock screw, and turning the adjusting nut clockwise to lower fuel level, or counterclockwise to raise fuel level. A 1 ⁄ 16 turn of the adjusting nut will change fuel level approximately 1 ⁄ 32 &inch; (0.8mm). Tighten the locking screw and install the sight plug, using the old gasket. Start the engine and run for about 30 seconds at 1,000 rpm to stabilize the fuel level.
  6. Stop the engine, remove the sight plug and check the fuel level. Repeat step 5 until the fuel level is at the bottom of the sight plug hole, install the sight plug using a new adjusting plug gasket.
  7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the secondary fuel bowl.
    NOTE: The secondary throttle must be used to stabilize the fuel level in the secondary fuel bowl.
  8. Install the air cleaner.
Jun 012017

2001 Ford F150Outer bearing races will not come out. I’ve used two different types of slide hammer pullers. All that is left are the outer races. I started making some conservative “x” cuts with a dremmel on the race , but I am concerned about going any deeper at risk of cutting into axle housing. What else can I do. Need some advice!

Removing Rear axle races

In my shop what we used to do in order to get races out was to use heat. I have found that the best way to apply heat to the race is to use a wire welder. Weld a bead all the way around the inside of the race and it will pop right out.