I have had slow start problems since I bought this truck. I thought I had it fixed a couple of times. The first time was adding fuel additive, which led me to think I just had dirty injectors. The second I changed the glow plugs and harness, but that only lasted a short time, and I think i might have moved an airbubble and just got lucky on the few good starts it had. Am I on the right track? Would air in the fuel lines cause it to hard start?
Yes. Air in the fuel lines will make it difficult to start and may even cause the engine to die.
Fuel Delivery Problems
To start and run properly, injector timing has to be accurate. A quick visual inspection will tell you if the timing marks are lined up. Refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s timing procedure if you suspect timing is off or the pump has been replaced recently. On newer diesels with electronic injection pumps or direct injection, you’ll need a scan tool to make any changes.
Any air in the fuel can also be a cause of hard starting or a no start condition. Air can make the engine die after it starts, and make restarting difficult. Air can enter the system through any break in the fuel line or via a bleedback condition.
Determine if air is the problem
To determine if air is the problem, install a clear return hose on the return side of the injection pump. Crank the engine and observe the line. Air bubbles in the fuel would tell you air is entering the inlet side of the pump. The injection pump itself is usually not the source of the air leak, so check the fuel lines and pump.
A worn or clogged pump can also make an engine hard to start. If the condition has been getting steadily worse accompanied by a loss of power, and the engine has a lot of miles on it (more than 75,000), the underlying cause may be a pump that needs to be replaced.
Before condemning the pump, though, check the fuel filters. Clogged filters can cause fuel restrictions that prevent the pump from doing its job properly. The primary water separator/fuel filter usually needs to be changed about every 30,000 to 40,000 miles, and the secondary filter about every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Newer fuel systems with a single filter usually require service about once a year. If the filter has been neglected, chances are it may be restricted or plugged.
I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel drive module. The car runs good at idle speed but lugs down on acceleration and has no power. What else could it be? It is a 2004 Ford Explorer 4.6l Eddie Bauer edition.
If there are any check engine light codes that would be the place to start. Have a fuel pressure gauge? You can attach it and see if the fuel pressure drops on acceleration. If that checks out, move on to the fuel pressure sensor(fuel pressure regulator).
Fuel Charging and Controls
The fuel charging controls consist of the following:
fuel injection supply manifold
electronic throttle body
The fuel injectors
fuel pressure and temperature sensor
fuel pulse damper
The fuel injection supply manifold:
delivers fuel to the individual fuel injectors.
receives fuel from the fuel supply line.
The electronic throttle body:
controls air supply to the upper intake manifold by electronically positioning the throttle plate.
is not adjustable.
cannot be cleaned.
is serviced as a complete assembly only.
The fuel injectors:
are electrically operated by the powertrain control module (PCM).
atomize the fuel as the fuel is delivered.
are deposit-resistant.
each have an internal solenoid that opens a needle valve to inject fuel into the lower intake manifold.
The fuel pressure and temperature sensor:
measures the pressure and temperature of the fuel in the fuel supply manifold and sends these signals to the PCM.
uses intake manifold vacuum as a pressure reference.
The fuel pulse damper:
reduces fuel system noise caused by the pulsing of the fuel injectors.
Here’s what I have so far from chasing the rabbit down the hole…
New Autolite Platinum plugs gapped .042
<2000 miles on Duralast plug wires
New BWD ignition coil pack (twice)
Installed New cats y-pipe with 3rd (Unmonitored) deleted
New Bank 2 Sen 1&2 O2 sensors
New Heated PCV
Vacuum runs 19-21.4 at idle. Drops to 0.5-1.0 on take off then to around 12 to maintain on flat ground.
Idle in park fluctuates between 650-750rpm
Replaced vacuum line & coupler on the backside of the air intake tube behind the MAF.
Ran the smoke/propane/water mist tests, no leaks
Barely gets up a small hill going 20 with about 50% throttle. All the while stuttering like it has a bad plug
Alt & Batt tested good
Belt and tensioner good
Shows codes P0353(intermittently) & P1000 (constant, no CEL)
The P1000 is showing up because the vehicle has not under gone the drive cycle required after all codes are cleared. This is normal when working on clearing codes and testing. Once you have repaired the Code P0353 the drive cycle procedure can be performed to remove the Code P1000. This helps to prevent drivers from trying to game the system by just clearing the codes before an emissions test. I have added the drive cycle information below.
Review the possible causes for code P0353. Use this information to assist in diagnosing the problem.
Ford Code P0353
DTC Code:
P0355
Description: Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Probable Causes:
Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
Ignition system – Ignition module, coil, spark plugs and wires
Ford Code P1000
DTC Code:
P1000
Description: OBD II Monitor Test/Drive Cycle Not Complete
Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) with appropriate adapters, or equivalent diagnostic scan tool
Drive Cycle Recommendations
NOTE: The following procedure is designed to execute and complete the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle and to clear the Ford P1000, inspection and maintenance (I/M) readiness code. When the ambient air temperature is below 4.4°C (40°F) or above 37.8°C (100°F), or the altitude is above 2,438 meters (8,000 feet), the EVAP monitor will not run. If the P1000 must be cleared in these conditions, the powertrain control module (PCM) must detect them once (twice on some applications) before the EVAP monitor can be bypassed and the P1000 cleared. The EVAP bypassing procedure is described in the following drive cycle.
1. Most OBD II monitors will complete more readily using a steady foot driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a smooth fashion will minimize the time necessary for monitor completion.
2. Fuel tank level should be between 1/2 and 3/4 full with 3/4 full being the most desirable.
3. The evaporative monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize fuel slosh.
Drive Cycle Preparation
NOTE: For best results, follow each of the following steps as accurately as possible.
4. NOTE: This step bypasses the engine soak timer and resets OBD II monitor status.
Install the diagnostic tool. Turn the key ON with the engine OFF. Cycle the key OFF, then ON. Select the appropriate vehicle and engine qualifier. Clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and carry out a PCM reset.
5. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Press Diagnostic Data Link, PCM, PID/Data monitor and record, press trigger to select each PID, then start.
6. Start the engine without returning the key to the OFF position.
Preparation for Monitor Entry
WARNING: Strict observance of posted speed limits and attention to driving conditions are mandatory when proceeding through the following drive cycle.
7. NOTE: This step allows engine warm-up and provides intake air temperature (IAT) input to the PCM.
Idle the vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 km/h (40 mph) until the engine coolant temperature (ECT) is at least 76.7°C (170°F).
8. Is IAT above 4.4°C (40°F) and below 37.8°C (100°F)? If not, continue with the following steps but note that the EVAP Monitor Bypass portion of the drive cycle (Step 13) will be required to bypass the EVAP monitor and clear the P1000.
9. NOTE: This step executes the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) monitor.
Cruise at 64 km/h (40 mph) for 60 seconds.
10. This executes the EVAP monitor if IAT is above 4.4°C (40°F) and below 37.8°C (100°F).
NOTE: To initiate the monitor, TP MODE should equal PT, EVAPDC must be greater than 75 percent, and FLI must be between 15 and 85 percent.
NOTE: Avoid sharp turns and hills.
Cruise at 72 to 104 km/h (45 to 65 mph) for 10 minutes.
11. NOTE: This step executes the ISC portion of the Secondary Air/CCM.
Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with the transmission in DRIVE (for automatic transmission) or NEUTRAL (for manual transmission) for 2 minutes.
Pending Code and EVAP Monitor Bypass Check
12. NOTE: This determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of Code P1000.
NOTE: If the EVAP monitor is not complete and IAT was below 4.4°C (40°F) or above 37.8°C (100°F) temperature range in Step 8, or the altitude is above 2,438 meters (8,000 feet), the EVAP Monitor Bypass (Step 13) must be carried out.
Using the diagnostic tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concerns. Rerun any incomplete monitor.
EVAP Monitor Bypass
13. NOTE: This allows the bypass counter to increment to 2.
NOTE: Do not repeat Step 4.
Park the vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat Steps 5 through 12.
I would like to add led daytime running lights. They need to go on with key but off when headlights are on
I will provide you with a wiring diagram of how Ford has the daytime running lights in place.
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL)
NOTE: The smart junction box (SJB) must be configured when installing a new module. For additional information, refer to Section 418-01.
The DRL system operates the low-beam headlamps at a reduced intensity. The SJB supplies pulse width modulated (PWM) voltage to the low-beam headlamps when the following conditions are met:
The high beam headlamps are not on.
The ignition switch is in the RUN position.
The parking brake control is released.
The DRL system utilizes the existing circuitry in the vehicle.
Headlights with DRL(Daytime Running Lights) – Wiring Diagram
My steering wheel is knocking. It feel’s like a finger on a clock stuck on the same number when a battery is low. And I hear a slight knocking. Also it steers to the right if I let go of the wheel.
Sounds like a tire issue. Possibly a busted belt in one of the tires. A cheap way to test for this would be to rotate the front tires to the back. Then test drive and see if the steering wheel straightens out. You should also feel the problem move toward the back and may feel the back end wiggle. The fix would be to replace the faulty tire.
How could this happen?
Normal everyday driving with the streets riddled with potholes can become the cause quickly. Older more worn tires are more prone to see issues as compared to new tires.
My Taurus’ A/C stopped working, and there is a grinding noise under the hood whether the A/C is on or off. If it were a damaged A/C compressor, wouldn’t the noise only be there when the A/C is turned on? What else could it be?
This sounds like a classic description of a failed air conditioning compressor clutch. Your engine has one Serpentine Drive Belt that runs all the accessories including the air conditioning.
What does that mean?
The belt wraps around and spins all the components on the front of the engine including the air conditioning compressor. Even when the compressor is not engaged(turned on) the outer portion of the clutch is still being rotated. When the clutch bearing goes out it causes a noise when rotating.
How can I check the air conditioning compressor myself?
Since we know the belt has to be spinning we can remove it. Remove the belt and start the engine. Only allow the engine to run long enough to confirm the noise is no longer heard.
Serpentine Belt Removal and Installation
Using a commercially available serpentine belt tool such as OTC 7644 or equivalent, rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Serpentine Belt Tool Kit
Serpentine Belt Tool Kit Designed to assist with the removal and installation of serpentine belts
Applications include, but not limited to Ford, GM, Chrysler, SAAB, VW and Volvo
Includes long rubberized handle and seven shallow 18mm, 16mm, 15mm, 14mm, 13mm, 1/2″ 3/8″ sockets
No spark. My camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor are good. I test no power at coil packs. I checked fuses and not sure how to proceed from here.
I’m having starting problems. It cranks over just fine but will not fire. This has happened 4 times in the last 3 years. After letting it sit over night, it will fire right up as if nothing had been wrong.
I’ve tried doing the following with no positive results;
1. Sprayed starting fluid in the intake while cranking the engine.
2. Tried locking/unlocking the door to see if it was a security/anti-theft issue.
3. Installed a new battery.
4. Installed a new fuel filter.
5. The ignition key is the chip type, so I tried using my spare key.
6. Disconnected the battery then reconnected it after a couple minutes.
Please help me resolve the problem.
Is the check engine light on?
First if there is a check engine light on it would be the best place to start. Pull any codes and post them below in the comments. For now we will assume the check engine light is not illuminated. Next we need to determine what the engine is not getting when it will not start.
Once we know what the engine isn’t getting we can concentrate on the “Why” of your starting problems. Since you tried spraying starting fluid in the engine and got nothing there is a good chance you do not have spark. This would be a common cause for starting problems. We can check for spark and confirm this with a spark tester.
an electronic distributorless ignition system (EDIS) controlled by an electronic engine control (EEC) integrated into the powertrain control module (PCM).
set at 10 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) for base timing and it is not adjustable.
The ignition coil :
changes low voltage pulses from the powertrain control module to high voltage pulses.
sends high voltage pulses to the spark plugs through the spark plug wires.
has three transformers.
has six spark plug wires, one to each end of each transformer.
is mounted on top of the intake manifold.
Spark plug wires carry high voltage pulses from the ignition coil to the spark plugs.
The spark plugs:
change high voltage pulses to spark at gap which ignites fuel and air mixture.
have a platinum-enhanced active electrode for long life. The active electrode is different for LH and RH sides.
Original spark plugs on the RH side (cylinders 1, 2 and 3) spark plugs are AGSF-34EG.
Original spark plugs on the LH side (cylinders 4, 5 and 6) are AGSF-34E.
Replacement spark plugs are AGSF-34EE; the electrodes are platinum-enhanced and can replace either a RH or LH spark plug.
The crankshaft position (CKP) sensor:
is a variable-reluctance sensor.
senses a missing tooth on crankshaft damper pulse ring.
generates a crankshaft position signal which is sent to the powertrain control module. The powertrain control module counts this signal for engine rpm and spark advance.
How to release air pressure from my air conditioner?
I’m wondering how to release air pressure from my air conditioner? I was told that I have too much which is making my air blow out hot air. It is a 2011 Ford Focus. Thank you…
You will need to have this done with an air conditioning recovery machine. Just about any local auto repair shop will have one of these.
Overfilling the air conditioning system is more common than you might think. This happens even more often on newer vehicles. The newer air conditioning systems only require a small amount of Freon making it easier to overfill. Older vehicles used to requires as much as 4 to 5 lbs. Nowadays you will see 1 to 1/5 lbs.
Freon Fill Capacity – 2011 Ford Focus
R-134a Refrigerant 0.51 kg(18 oz)(1.12 lb)
Air Conditioning (A/C) System Recovery, Evacuation and Charging
Prior to recovering, the purity of the refrigerant must be verified.
Connect a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine to the low- and high-pressure service gauge port valves following the operating instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer.
Recover the refrigerant from the system following the operating instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer. Note the amount of oil removed during the refrigerant recovery (if any). Add that same amount back into the system once repairs are complete.
Once the R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine has recovered the refrigerant, switch OFF the power supply.
Allow the system to set for about 2 minutes, and observe the system vacuum reading. If the vacuum is not lost, disconnect the recovery equipment.
If the system does lose vacuum, repeat Steps 3 through 5 until the vacuum level remains stable for 2 minutes.
Carry out the required repairs.
Refrigerant System Evacuation Using a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine
Connect a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine to the low- and high-pressure service gauge port valves following the operating instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer.
Evacuate the system until the low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) of vacuum and as close to 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the Vacuum Pump for a minimum of 45 minutes.
Turn OFF the Vacuum Pump. Observe the low-pressure gauge for 5 minutes to make sure that the system vacuum is held.
Refrigerant System Evacuation Using a R-134a Manifold Gauge Set and Vacuum Pump
NOTE: Leaks in refrigerant system service equipment, hoses or gauges can cause a leak in vacuum that may be misinterpreted as a problem with the vehicle’s refrigerant system. It is necessary to leak-test all refrigerant system service equipment, hoses and gauges on a weekly basis to verify that no leaks are present.
Connect the R-134a Manifold Gauge Set to the low-side and high-side service gauge port valves.
Connect the center (yellow) hose from the R-134a Manifold Gauge Set to the suction port on the Vacuum Pump.
Open all valves on the R-134a Manifold Gauge Set and both service gauge port valves.
Turn on the Vacuum Pump and evacuate the system until the low-pressure gauge reads at least 99.4 kPa (29.5 in-Hg) of vacuum and as close to 101.1 kPa (30 in-Hg) as possible. Continue to operate the Vacuum Pump for a minimum of 45 minutes.
Close the high-side and low-side valves on the R-134a Manifold Gauge Set (not the service gauge port valves) and turn OFF the Vacuum Pump.
Observe the low-pressure gauge for 5 minutes to make sure that the system vacuum is held. If vacuum is not held for 5 minutes, leak test the system, repair the leak and evacuate the system again.
Refrigerant System Charging Using a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine
Lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil.
Connect a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine to the low-side and high-side service gauge port valves following the operating instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer.
Set the refrigerant charge amount, and charge the refrigerant system following the instructions provided by the equipment manufacturer.
Refrigerant System Charging Using a R-134a Manifold Gauge Set and Automatic Refrigerant Charging Meter
NOTE: Ford Motor Company recommends use of a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine to carry out charging of the refrigerant system. If a R-134a Refrigerant Management Machine is not available, refrigerant system charging may be accomplished using a separate Automatic Refrigerant Charging Meter and R-134a Manifold Gauge Set.
Lubricate the refrigerant system with the correct amount of clean PAG oil.
Assemble the R-134a Manifold Gauge Set, Automatic Refrigerant Charging Meter and R-134a supply tank following the Automatic Refrigerant Charging Meter operating instructions.
Charge the refrigerant system following the Automatic Refrigerant Charging Meter operating instructions.
If the refrigerant flow stops before the refrigerant charge is complete, start the engine, select MAX A/C operation and allow the refrigerant charge to complete.
