The engine cuts out while driving. It has done this several times at speeds ranging from 30mph to 50mph. The car usually starts straight away but recently has taken several attempts to restart. A fault finding diagnostic has recorded no faults. What could be the problem?
- Clogged fuel filter
- Contaminated Fuel
I recommend trying a different fuel station on your next fill up. Continue to drive until fault code appears.
I need assistance finding where a positive cable on the wiring harness connects to.
Starting system positive cables
One positive battery cable connects from the battery to the starter relay and the other to the starter motor. Of course if you have two batteries there is one that connects the two. See diagram below.
Alternator system positive cables
There are positive cables that come from the starter relay. They connect to the alternator and the fuse box. These cables contain fusible links. See diagram below.
Starter wiring diagram – 2001 Ford F250 7.3L2001-ford-f250-7.3-starting-circuit-1-of-1
Alternator wiring diagram – 2001 Ford F250 7.3L2001-ford-f250-7.3-charging-circuit-w-o-dual-generators-1-of-1
I have a severe shimmy / shake that starts once I hit 60 MPH and continues till around 70 MPH. I bought this truck used with 65,000 miles on it and what appeared to be new tires. The dealership changed the tracing bar and the dual stabilizer bar and re-balanced the tires and rotated the tires also trying to fix/find the issue. The issue only seemed different before these above fixes but now appears more different , severe and worse?
The issues at first were noticed at 35 or 40 MPH crossing a rough R/R Track that near about shook me off the side of the road and then settled down but really didn’t shimmy or shake to much at a high rate of speed , this was referenced as ‘ A DEATH WOBBLE ‘. Since the above fixes , the truck don’t shimmy or shake crossing the rough R/R track at 35 or 40 anymore but now shimmy’s and shakes severely once speeds of 60 to 70 MPH are reached. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
Vibration at 60 MPH
Generally if a vibration comes on at a certain speed and then calms down at a higher rate of speed it is caused by a tire issue. Usually the tire issue is due to balancing. Sometimes what is called a flat spot will also cause this issue.
A good way to narrow this down is to first test drive and note any vibration. Is it more dominate in the front or steering wheel than it is in the rear or seat. Once noted, rotate both front tires to the back and test drive again. Note if the vibration has followed the tires. If it is now worse feeling in the steering wheel then you can start by re-balancing. Or in most cases replacing the front tires.
More than likely all the problems that were present caused extensive damage to the tires. Now that the repairs are made the only thing left to do would be to replace the tires.
Did I not seat the cross piece (Interlock) that goes through the shift tube sideways into the shifting cradle correctly?
It is a 1997 Ford eE50 Econolin Club Wagon. I replaced my auto shift tube that was broke. The shifter is not moving since I put it back together. I believe I did not seat the cross piece (interlock) that is sideways through the new shift tube that seats into the shifting cradle correctly. Currently the shifter does not move.
It never hurts to recheck your work if you think you may have missed a step. However with the Ford Shift Interlock you may want to check for battery voltage at the shift interlock actuator. A weak or dead battery may be at fault. This could be from leaving the door open while working on it for a long period or simply age of the battery. Be sure to check the fuses as well. I have added the wiring diagram below for reference.
Shift Interlock System
The shift interlock system prevents movement of the transmission range selector lever from the PARK position with the ignition switch (11572) placed in the RUN position until the service brake pedal (2455) is actuated or until vehicle power is interrupted. The shift lock actuator is mounted at the base of the steering column and engages the transmission shift selector position insert to lock the transmission column shift selector tube (7212) and transmission range selector lever.
Shift Interlock Wiring Diagram – 1997 Ford E350
(view with Google Chrome or Firefox)
Shift Selector Tube
(view with Google Chrome or Firefox)
What vehicles have a compatible rear differential assembly. I have an open 7.5 differential with 373 gears. I need the spider gears and the carrier they go inside and the pin.
Rangers, Explorers and Mercury Mountaineer should be the same.
Hi, my car won’t move in drive
Car won’t move in drive
First thing to check would be the transmission fluid level. If it is low, top it off and test. If it is not low, look at the color against a white paper towel. If the color looks dark or burnt then there may be internal damage. If the fluid level is full and the color is pretty pink, there may be a sticking solenoid in the transmission.
Of course there may be other things that could cause this such as a broken cv axle shaft but that isn’t very common. Another cause could be the shifter isn’t going into gear all the way. Try moving the the shifter to low and see if it will do anything. Does it move in reverse?
Loaned daughter my extra car
Loaned daughter my extra car and while driving on freeway it started acting up. Loss of power, roughness and when she got home car stopped after making loud clunking noise. I pulled out all four spark plugs and the #4 plug was badly damaged. It also appears that the #4 piston is not moving up and down when crankshaft is turned by hand. I can also see some debris is the cylinder. I checked the oil and found that the level is about one and a half times over the full mark, I am guessing about 10 to 12 quarts of oil is present, why I don’t know. Can this amount of overfill cause engine damage?
The extra oil wouldn’t be the cause of the engine damage you described. I would look to see if the coolant or transmission fluid is low. One of the two may have gotten into the oil. Otherwise the oil may have been added after the engine started to make noise as an attempt at fixing it. Either way the engine is toast and will need to be replaced.
Fan blowing on high
I drove my car to work and everything ran fine. I shut it off at work. Then after work restarted the car. It started right up and is running fine but the speedometer, blinkers, brake lights, heater/ AC ect are not working. The heater fan in the car is blowing on high even though it is “off” and the tachometer and fuel gauge is working. Ive never seen this before. Where should I start?
The blower working without being turned on is most commonly a sticking relay. However with all the other issue going on it might be more than that. I would start by checking the connections at the battery. Then isolate each circuit and check the connections and wiring harness. When wires cross or become brittle it can do some weird things.
Airbag Light Code B2290
It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. Then I tried erasing the code but unable to do it as it comes right back on. I unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat, and then ofcourse U1900 came which says SRS module fault, but then I was able to erase the B2290 code, and not U1900. I also took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools, and they said recalibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue, they tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself, and need to be replaced.
Its an expensive part $180, I don’t want to just replace it, if its really not required. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part.
Airbag warning light turns on
It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. I tried erasing the code, but unable to do it as it comes right back on. Then unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat. And then of course U1900 came which says SRS module fault but I was able to erase the B2290 code and not U1900.
Then I took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools and they said re-calibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue. They tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself and need to be replaced. Of course they didn’t allow me to watch the process they are doing so I don’t have full details on what all they did.
Inquired with dealership
I inquired with dealership over phone about it and as per them following spec. It needs to replace all 4 sensors underneath the seat including rail sensors and all. So I can’t even locate those 4 sensors they talked about at fordparts.com with my car details. I also couldn’t locate those many plugs & sensors underneath the passenger seat in my car. So I am not sure how much to trust that information.
Its an expensive part $180. I don’t want to just replace it if its really not required. And thus may not fix the problem. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part. And if there is a way to test if the sensor is really bad by jumping/shorting the wires, resistance test etc. etc.
Ford Code B2290
Occupant Classification System Fault which is the weight sensor in the passenger front seat. The weight sensor may need to be reset with a Ford diagnostic computer if the seat was replaced.
If you swapped the entire seat the new sensor needs calibrated.
Ford states that whole bottom part of the seat has to be replaced with module+sensor factory installed for it to work. So replacing only bladder or module wont work.