Oct 232017

2006 Ford Taurus

I have been throwing parts at this car trying to fix it. It started with multiple check engine codes P0300 and a few more P03XX ones I cannot remember. But they all had to do with misfire. I replaced the plugs and the coil pack. While replacing the plugs, #5 cylinders plug was missing the tip of the plug so I know it was not firing. After replacing the parts it ran great but code P0300 came back. Checked for vacuum leaks, tested all the injectors and found one that may have been weak. Then I replaced the upper intake manifold and all the injectors along with the EGR Valve, Mass Air Flow, EGR Vacuum Solenoid, and the Cam Sensor. I figured I would have got it with all that but nope.

I now get P0402 and still P0300 so now I am thinking I will go ahead and replace the Camshaft Synchronizer and the crank sensor. Not sure what else I could be missing but I am willing to try anything at this point. If anyone has any other ideas, I am going to pull the plugs and recheck them along with the plug wires. I have rechecked the wiring positions and they are in the correct order.

In my experience with code P0402 you will need to replace 3 components. The EGR, EGR Regulator and DPF (Differential Pressure Feedback) EGR valves. You will also want to remove the valve tubes and make sure all are clean and clear of obstruction. Do the same for the ports they connect to. As for the Po300 misfire code should clear up once you take care of the EGR issues.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Components — Exploded View

EGR compnent location diagram 2006 Ford Taurus

Item Part Number Description
1 14A464 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) vacuum regulator valve electrical connector
2 N620479 EGR vacuum regulator valve nuts (2 required)
3 9J489C EGR vacuum regulator valve
4 Vacuum tube connector-to-EGR vacuum regulator valve (part of 9E498)
5 9E498 EGR vacuum tube
6 Vacuum tube connector-to-EGR valve (part of 9E498)
7 9E444A Differential pressure feedback EGR sensor
8 14A464 Differential pressure feedback EGR sensor electrical connector
9 9D476B EGR valve gasket
10 9E444A EGR valve
11 Exhaust manifold-to-EGR valve tube fitting (part of 9D477E)
12 Exhaust manifold-to-EGR valve tube nut (part of 9D477E)
13 9D477E Exhaust manifold-to-EGR valve tube
14 W500224 EGR valve bolts (2 required)
15 9P761A Differential pressure feedback EGR sensor vacuum hoses (2 required)

Ford Code P0402

Code P0402 Description: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected

Code P0402 Possible Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. Exhaust leaks or restrictions
  7. EGR components clogged, dirty or leaky
  8. EGR valve damaged/defective


Oct 212017

Ford Crown Victoria

The headlights do not always come on when operating the high/low switch. Sometimes they come on, however they don’t come on every time. I’d like to know if there is some part, other than the h/l switch that will cause this intermittent situation? Thank You for your knowledgeable response.

When looking at the diagram it appears the only options would be the wiring, the switch or the Lighting Control Module. If equipped with DRL (Daytime Running Lights) there is the addition of the DRL Module.


Headlights without DRL wiring diagram

(best viewed in Chrome or Firefox)

Headlights with DRL wiring diagram

Oct 182017

Ford Ranger

Diagnosed a bad throttle position sensor. Installed a new one. Ran great for about a minute. Went back to running rough. Installed another new tps. Again it ran good for about a minute. Then it ran rough again. With the voltmeter I confirmed I had good 12 volt power going in. On the third wire I confirmed a good ground loop. But on the signal wire it should read 0.9 volts on closed throttle and 5.0 volts on wide open throttle. It gave 0.3 volts closed throttle to wide open throttle. Could my signal wire be grounded somewhere? Or could my computer be fried?

Throttle Position Sensor

tps connector diagram 2003 Ford Ranger

Testing for short or open in wiring harness

Check TP Circuit for open in harness
  • Turn ignition switch to off position. Leave TP sensor disconnected. Disconnect PCM connector(s). Inspect connector for loose, damaged or corroded terminals, and repair as needed.
  • Using a digital multi-meter, measure resistance of TP circuit between PCM harness connector and TP sensor connector.
  • If resistance is less than 5 ohms go to next step below. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in TP circuit.
Check TP Circuit for short to SIG RTN or PWR GND in harness
  • Ensure PCM is disconnected. Disconnect scan tool from Data Link Connector.
  • Using a Digital multi-meter, measure resistance between TP circuit, and SIG RTN and PWR GND circuits at PCM harness connector. If either resistance measurement is 10k/ohms or less, repair short between circuits.
  • If both resistance measurements are more than 10k/ohms, replace the PCM.



Oct 092017

2002 Ford Mustang

I need to see which color wires and what holes they plug in on engine wiring harness that control fuel injectors, coils, etc. It has 25 to 30 pins.

I shall provide you with the engine wiring diagram in 3 parts. (best viewed with Chrome or Firefox)

Engine Wiring Diagram 2002 Ford Mustang GT

Oct 022017

2002 Ford F250

Hi, I have a 2002 f250 V10 crew cab. When I go over rough road the front end can pull and move me over in the lane. The front end has been checked and new shocks installed but it still does it and when I Hit freeway bumps it hits real hard. If I install air bags in the coil springs will it help the ride and steering?

Air bags are not going to help the ride or the steering. It would make the ride stiffer. I would have the tires and alignment checked. Also check for a loose steering gear box. If your tires are oversized (not stock size) this may also cause the vehicle to want to shoot to one side of the road or the other.

Oct 022017

1992 Ford F150

Fuel pump will not prime

If your truck utilizes a mechanical fuel pump follow the testing procedure listed below. These trucks (1990 – 1996) employ a single, high pressure pump which is part of the modular, In-Tank Reservoir (ITR) assembly. Besides the pump, the ITR consists of a venturi jet pump, a supply check valve and a shuttle selector valve. All this is mounted on the fuel gauge sender flange. The sending unit is separate from the ITR module.

When the fuel system is opened allowing the pressure to bleed off will require the system to be primed once reassembled. This can be achieved by cycling the ignition switch on and off. The ignition key needs to be moved to the “ON” position for 5 seconds and then moved to “OFF” for 5 seconds. This needs to be repeated a minimum of 10 times. If fuel pressure has not built up, check for fuel leaks first. Then test your fuel pump relay function. Next test your fuel pump.


fuel pump diagram 1992 Ford F150

Mechanical Fuel Pump Testing

Never smoke when working around gasoline! Avoid all sources of sparks or ignition. Gasoline vapors are EXTREMELY volatile!

Incorrect fuel pump pressure and low volume (flow rate) are the two most likely fuel pump troubles that will affect engine performance. Low pressure will cause a lean mixture and fuel starvation at high speeds and excessive pressure will cause high fuel consumption and carburetor flooding.

To determine that the fuel pump is in satisfactory operating condition, tests for both fuel pump pressure and volume should be performed.

The test are performed with the fuel pump installed on the engine and the engine at normal operating temperature and at idle speed.

Before the test, make sure that the replaceable fuel filter has been changed at the proper mileage interval. If in doubt, install a new filter.

Pressure Test

  1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Disconnect the fuel inlet line of the fuel filter at the carburetor. Use care to prevent fire, due to fuel spillage. Place an absorbent cloth under the connection before removing the line to catch any fuel that might flow out of the line.
  2. Connect a pressure gauge, a restrictor and a flexible hose between the fuel filter and the carburetor.
  3. Position the flexible hose and the restrictor so that the fuel can be discharged into a suitable, graduated container.
  4. Before taking a pressure reading, operate the engine at the specified idle rpm and vent the system into the container by opening the hose restrictor momentarily.
  5. Close the hose restrictor, allow the pressure to stabilize and note the reading. The pressure should be 5 psi. (34.5 kPa).
    If the pump pressure is not within 4–6 psi (27.6–41.4 kPa) and the fuel lines and filter are in satisfactory condition, the pump is defective and should be replaced.

If the pump pressure is within the proper range, perform the test for fuel volume.

Volume Test

  1. Operate the engine at the specified idle rpm.
  2. Open the hose restrictor and catch the fuel in the container while observing the time it takes to pump 1 pint. 1 pint should be pumped in 20 seconds. If the pump does not pump to specifications, check for proper fuel tank venting or a restriction in the fuel line leading from the fuel tank to the carburetor before replacing the fuel pump.
Sep 192017

2008 Ford Escape

08 escape when warm outside car shifts good but in winter when i first takeoff car hesitates for about 5 seconds before going into gear then is fine

First thing to check would be the transmission fluid level. Also check for any signs of a transmission fluid leak. Next checking for dirty fluid and finally checking and or replacing the solenoids in the transmissions valve body.

Sep 142017

Ford F250

Hard Start

I have had slow start problems since I bought this truck. I thought I had it fixed a couple of times. The first time was adding fuel additive, which led me to think I just had dirty injectors. The second I changed the glow plugs and harness, but that only lasted a short time, and I think i might have moved an airbubble and just got lucky on the few good starts it had. Am I on the right track? Would air in the fuel lines cause it to hard start?

Yes. Air in the fuel lines will make it difficult to start and may even cause the engine to die.

Fuel Delivery Problems

To start and run properly, injector timing has to be accurate. A quick visual inspection will tell you if the timing marks are lined up. Refer to the vehicle manufacturer’s timing procedure if you suspect timing is off or the pump has been replaced recently. On newer diesels with electronic injection pumps or direct injection, you’ll need a scan tool to make any changes.

Any air in the fuel can also be a cause of hard starting or a no start condition. Air can make the engine die after it starts, and make restarting difficult. Air can enter the system through any break in the fuel line or via a bleedback condition.

Determine if air is the problem

To determine if air is the problem, install a clear return hose on the return side of the injection pump. Crank the engine and observe the line. Air bubbles in the fuel would tell you air is entering the inlet side of the pump. The injection pump itself is usually not the source of the air leak, so check the fuel lines and pump.

A worn or clogged pump can also make an engine hard to start. If the condition has been getting steadily worse accompanied by a loss of power, and the engine has a lot of miles on it (more than 75,000), the underlying cause may be a pump that needs to be replaced.

Before condemning the pump, though, check the fuel filters. Clogged filters can cause fuel restrictions that prevent the pump from doing its job properly. The primary water separator/fuel filter usually needs to be changed about every 30,000 to 40,000 miles, and the secondary filter about every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Newer fuel systems with a single filter usually require service about once a year. If the filter has been neglected, chances are it may be restricted or plugged.

Source: http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/diagnosing_light_duty_diesels.asp

Sep 122017

2004 Ford Explorer

I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel drive module. The car runs good at idle speed but lugs down on acceleration and has no power. What else could it be? It is a 2004 Ford Explorer 4.6l Eddie Bauer edition.

If there are any check engine light codes that would be the place to start. Have a fuel pressure gauge? You can attach it and see if the fuel pressure drops on acceleration. If that checks out, move on to the fuel pressure sensor(fuel pressure regulator).

Fuel Charging and Controls

The fuel charging controls consist of the following:

  • fuel injection supply manifold
  • electronic throttle body
  • The fuel injectors
  • fuel pressure and temperature sensor
  • fuel pulse damper

The fuel injection supply manifold:

  • delivers fuel to the individual fuel injectors.
  • receives fuel from the fuel supply line.

The electronic throttle body:

  • controls air supply to the upper intake manifold by electronically positioning the throttle plate.
  • is not adjustable.
  • cannot be cleaned.
  • is serviced as a complete assembly only.

The fuel injectors:

  • are electrically operated by the powertrain control module (PCM).
  • atomize the fuel as the fuel is delivered.
  • are deposit-resistant.
  • each have an internal solenoid that opens a needle valve to inject fuel into the lower intake manifold.

The fuel pressure and temperature sensor:

  • measures the pressure and temperature of the fuel in the fuel supply manifold and sends these signals to the PCM.
  • uses intake manifold vacuum as a pressure reference.

The fuel pulse damper:

  • reduces fuel system noise caused by the pulsing of the fuel injectors.

Fuel pressure sensor replacement

Sep 122017

2006 Ford Taurus

Code P0353 and Code P1000

Here’s what I have so far from chasing the rabbit down the hole…

  • New Autolite Platinum plugs gapped .042
  • <2000 miles on Duralast plug wires
  • New BWD ignition coil pack (twice)
  • Installed New cats y-pipe with 3rd (Unmonitored) deleted
  • New Bank 2 Sen 1&2 O2 sensors
  • New Heated PCV
  • Vacuum runs 19-21.4 at idle. Drops to 0.5-1.0 on take off then to around 12 to maintain on flat ground.
  • Idle in park fluctuates between 650-750rpm
  • Replaced vacuum line & coupler on the backside of the air intake tube behind the MAF.
  • Ran the smoke/propane/water mist tests, no leaks
  • Barely gets up a small hill going 20 with about 50% throttle. All the while stuttering like it has a bad plug
  • Alt & Batt tested good
  • Belt and tensioner good

Shows codes P0353(intermittently) & P1000 (constant, no CEL)

The P1000 is showing up because the vehicle has not under gone the drive cycle required after all codes are cleared. This is normal when working on clearing codes and testing. Once you have repaired the Code P0353 the drive cycle procedure can be performed to remove the Code P1000. This helps to prevent drivers from trying to game the system by just clearing the codes before an emissions test. I have added the drive cycle information below.

Review the possible causes for code P0353. Use this information to assist in diagnosing the problem.

Ford Code P0353

DTC Code: P0355
Description: Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Probable Causes:
  1. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  2. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  3. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  4. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  5. Ignition system – Ignition module, coil, spark plugs and wires


Ford Code P1000

DTC Code: P1000
Description: OBD II Monitor Test/Drive Cycle Not Complete
Probable Causes:
  1. Battery voltage low

Evaporative Emission Repair Verification Drive Cycle

Special Tool(s)

Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS)

Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) with appropriate adapters, or equivalent diagnostic scan tool

Drive Cycle Recommendations

NOTE: The following procedure is designed to execute and complete the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle and to clear the Ford P1000, inspection and maintenance (I/M) readiness code. When the ambient air temperature is below 4.4°C (40°F) or above 37.8°C (100°F), or the altitude is above 2,438 meters (8,000 feet), the EVAP monitor will not run. If the P1000 must be cleared in these conditions, the powertrain control module (PCM) must detect them once (twice on some applications) before the EVAP monitor can be bypassed and the P1000 cleared. The EVAP bypassing procedure is described in the following drive cycle.
1. Most OBD II monitors will complete more readily using a steady foot driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a smooth fashion will minimize the time necessary for monitor completion.
2. Fuel tank level should be between 1/2 and 3/4 full with 3/4 full being the most desirable.
3. The evaporative monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize fuel slosh.

Drive Cycle Preparation

NOTE: For best results, follow each of the following steps as accurately as possible.

4. NOTE: This step bypasses the engine soak timer and resets OBD II monitor status.
Install the diagnostic tool. Turn the key ON with the engine OFF. Cycle the key OFF, then ON. Select the appropriate vehicle and engine qualifier. Clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and carry out a PCM reset.
5. Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Press Diagnostic Data Link, PCM, PID/Data monitor and record, press trigger to select each PID, then start.
6. Start the engine without returning the key to the OFF position.

Preparation for Monitor Entry

WARNING: Strict observance of posted speed limits and attention to driving conditions are mandatory when proceeding through the following drive cycle.

7. NOTE: This step allows engine warm-up and provides intake air temperature (IAT) input to the PCM.
Idle the vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 km/h (40 mph) until the engine coolant temperature (ECT) is at least 76.7°C (170°F).
8. Is IAT above 4.4°C (40°F) and below 37.8°C (100°F)? If not, continue with the following steps but note that the EVAP Monitor Bypass portion of the drive cycle (Step 13) will be required to bypass the EVAP monitor and clear the P1000.

9. NOTE: This step executes the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) monitor.
Cruise at 64 km/h (40 mph) for 60 seconds.

10. This executes the EVAP monitor if IAT is above 4.4°C (40°F) and below 37.8°C (100°F).

NOTE: To initiate the monitor, TP MODE should equal PT, EVAPDC must be greater than 75 percent, and FLI must be between 15 and 85 percent.

NOTE: Avoid sharp turns and hills.
Cruise at 72 to 104 km/h (45 to 65 mph) for 10 minutes.

11. NOTE: This step executes the ISC portion of the Secondary Air/CCM.
Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with the transmission in DRIVE (for automatic transmission) or NEUTRAL (for manual transmission) for 2 minutes.

Pending Code and EVAP Monitor Bypass Check

12. NOTE: This determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of Code P1000.

NOTE: If the EVAP monitor is not complete and IAT was below 4.4°C (40°F) or above 37.8°C (100°F) temperature range in Step 8, or the altitude is above 2,438 meters (8,000 feet), the EVAP Monitor Bypass (Step 13) must be carried out.
Using the diagnostic tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concerns. Rerun any incomplete monitor.

EVAP Monitor Bypass

13. NOTE: This allows the bypass counter to increment to 2.

NOTE: Do not repeat Step 4.
Park the vehicle for a minimum of 8 hours. Repeat Steps 5 through 12.