Jan 132018
 

2012 Ford F250

I have a severe shimmy / shake that starts once I hit 60 MPH and continues till around 70 MPH. I bought this truck used with 65,000 miles on it and what appeared to be new tires. The dealership changed the tracing bar and the dual stabilizer bar and re-balanced the tires and rotated the tires also trying to fix/find the issue. The issue only seemed different before these above fixes but now appears more different , severe and worse?

The issues at first were noticed at 35 or 40 MPH crossing a rough R/R Track that near about shook me off the side of the road and then settled down but really didn’t shimmy or shake to much at a high rate of speed , this was referenced as ‘ A DEATH WOBBLE ‘. Since the above fixes , the truck don’t shimmy or shake crossing the rough R/R track at 35 or 40 anymore but now shimmy’s and shakes severely once speeds of 60 to 70 MPH are reached. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!


Vibration at 60 MPH

Generally if a vibration comes on at a certain speed and then calms down at a higher rate of speed it is caused by a tire issue. Usually the tire issue is due to balancing. Sometimes what is called a flat spot will also cause this issue.

A good way to narrow this down is to first test drive and note any vibration. Is it more dominate in the front or steering wheel than it is in the rear or seat. Once noted, rotate both front tires to the back and test drive again. Note if the vibration has followed the tires. If it is now worse feeling in the steering wheel then you can start by re-balancing. Or in most cases replacing the front tires.

More than likely all the problems that were present caused extensive damage to the tires. Now that the repairs are made the only thing left to do would be to replace the tires.

Jan 032018
 

Did I not seat the cross piece (Interlock) that goes through the shift tube sideways  into the shifting cradle correctly?

It is a 1997 Ford eE50 Econolin Club Wagon. I replaced my auto shift tube that was broke. The shifter is not moving since I put it back together. I believe I did not seat the cross piece (interlock) that is sideways through the new shift tube that seats into the shifting cradle correctly. Currently the shifter does not move.


It never hurts to recheck your work if you think you may have missed a step. However with the Ford Shift Interlock you may want to check for battery voltage at the shift interlock actuator. A weak or dead battery may be at fault. This could be from leaving the door open while working on it for a long period or simply age of the battery. Be sure to check the fuses as well. I have added the wiring diagram below for reference.

Shift Interlock System

The shift interlock system prevents movement of the transmission range selector lever from the PARK position with the ignition switch (11572) placed in the RUN position until the service brake pedal (2455) is actuated or until vehicle power is interrupted. The shift lock actuator is mounted at the base of the steering column and engages the transmission shift selector position insert to lock the transmission column shift selector tube (7212) and transmission range selector lever.

Shift Interlock Wiring Diagram – 1997 Ford E350

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1997-ford-e350-shift-interlock-1-of-1

 

Shift Selector Tube

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1997-ford-e350-steering-column-shift-selector-tube-removal-and-installation

Dec 162017
 

2002 Ford Mondeo

Hi, my car won’t move in drive


Car won’t move in drive

First thing to check would be the transmission fluid level. If it is low, top it off and test. If it is not low, look at the color against a white paper towel. If the color looks dark or burnt then there may be internal damage. If the fluid level is full and the color is pretty pink, there may be a sticking solenoid in the transmission.

Of course there may be other things that could cause this such as a broken cv axle shaft but that isn’t very common. Another cause could be the shifter isn’t going into gear all the way. Try moving the the shifter to low and see if it will do anything. Does it move in reverse?

 

Nov 192017
 

1999 Ford Escort

Loaned daughter my extra car

Loaned daughter my extra car and while driving on freeway it started acting up. Loss of power, roughness and when she got home car stopped after making loud clunking noise. I pulled out all four spark plugs and the #4 plug was badly damaged. It also appears that the #4 piston is not moving up and down when crankshaft is turned by hand. I can also see some debris is the cylinder. I checked the oil and found that the level is about one and a half times over the full mark, I am guessing about 10 to 12 quarts of oil is present, why I don’t know. Can this amount of overfill cause engine damage?


The extra oil wouldn’t be the cause of the engine damage you described. I would look to see if the coolant or transmission fluid is low. One of the two may have gotten into the oil. Otherwise the oil may have been added after the engine started to make noise as an attempt at fixing it. Either way the engine is toast and will need to be replaced.

Nov 102017
 

Ford Taurus

Fan blowing on high

I drove my car to work and everything ran fine. I shut it off at work. Then after work restarted the car. It started right up and is running fine but the speedometer, blinkers, brake lights, heater/ AC ect are not working. The heater fan in the car is blowing on high even though it is “off” and the tachometer and fuel gauge is working. Ive never seen this before. Where should I start?


The blower working without being turned on is most commonly a sticking relay. However with all the other issue going on it might be more than that. I would start by checking the connections at the battery. Then isolate each circuit and check the connections and wiring harness. When wires cross or become brittle it can do some weird things.

2007 Ford Fusion SEL V6 3.0L Airbag Light On With B2290 Code

 Auto Repair Questions, Ford  Comments Off on 2007 Ford Fusion SEL V6 3.0L Airbag Light On With B2290 Code
Oct 312017
 

2007 Ford Fusion

Airbag Light Code B2290

It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. Then I tried erasing the code but unable to do it as it comes right back on. I unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat, and then ofcourse U1900 came which says SRS module fault, but then I was able to erase the B2290 code, and not U1900. I also took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools, and they said recalibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue, they tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself, and need to be replaced.
Its an expensive part $180, I don’t want to just replace it, if its really not required. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part.

Airbag warning light turns on

It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. I tried erasing the code, but unable to do it as it comes right back on. Then unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat. And then of course U1900 came which says SRS module fault but I was able to erase the B2290 code and not U1900.

Then I took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools and they said re-calibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue. They tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself and need to be replaced. Of course they didn’t allow me to watch the process they are doing so I don’t have full details on what all they did.

Inquired with dealership

I inquired with dealership over phone about it and as per them following spec. It needs to replace all 4 sensors underneath the seat including rail sensors and all. So I can’t even locate those 4 sensors they talked about at fordparts.com with my car details. I also couldn’t locate those many plugs & sensors underneath the passenger seat in my car. So I am not sure how much to trust that information.

Its an expensive part $180. I don’t want to just replace it if its really not required. And thus may not fix the problem. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part. And if there is a way to test if the sensor is really bad by jumping/shorting the wires, resistance test etc. etc.


Ford Code B2290

Occupant Classification System Fault which is the weight sensor in the passenger front seat. The weight sensor may need to be reset with a Ford diagnostic computer if the seat was replaced.

If you swapped the entire seat the new sensor needs calibrated.

Ford states that whole bottom part of the seat has to be replaced with module+sensor factory installed for it to work. So replacing only bladder or module wont work.

 

Oct 312017
 

1995 Ford E150

No Heat

I put it in the shop for them to fix problem. It came back running worse. Turns out they took out the proair 800 and bypassed it so coolant was circulating but not enough since I was still overheating. I redid everything they did and it runs better. I put in some radiator sealant and that sealed a few things I didn’t want it to. Mainly the overflow which helped keep running just a little longer. I fixed that but it still keeping it running a bit longer.

I noticed when I did the by pass in the back that there isn’t a really marked as to which hose to which so I may have that wrong plus the wiring that I plugged back together there is one I couldn’t find. And two that plugged into fuses back there didn’t say which fuse they went too.

I have since developed a leak in radiator and it overheats. Other than that the van runs great. Way better than before but I can’t afford another radiator or even coolant at this point but before when proair 800 was still bypassed I had heat. When I rerouted the lines in back is when all the cold air just stayed on. Feels like air conditioning is stuck. But I do get warm air right when it starts getting really hot please give me the very best guess possible is it the wire I didn’t plug in. Are the two hoses reversed? Or is it just that I need a new radiator. I live in Alaska and heat is crucial.


Best guess is there is an air pocket in the system. And it will be almost impossible to for the system to work if it has a leak. You need the cooling system to be leak free. Needs to be completely filled with 50/50 mix of coolant/water and bled of no air. Straight coolant or straight water will cause it to overheat even in perfectly functioning cooling systems.

Another thought I had was if both heater hoses are hot, and it is blowing cold it may be that the vacuum hoses didn’t get hook back up right on the back of the control head. If there is a vacuum leak the mode door actuator won’t work correctly.

Oct 242017
 

2005 Ford Explorer

Engine will just die

This vehicle runs well and has plenty of power, but occasionally the engine will just die. It can happen at 10 mph or 60 mph. It will crank back up and run. Appears to be an intermittent problem. Pulled two codes from the computer:
P1633 KAM (Keep Alive Memory) Voltage Too Low
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Low Input

I don’t know that these codes have anything to do with the problem we’re having with the vehicle. I’ve checked some of the simple stuff like making sure there is plenty of fuel in the tank, and I checked the battery voltage (a good 12.6 volts).

What do you think?


I wouldn’t think that these codes have anything to do with the engine intermittently dying on you. Unfortunately this is one of the most difficult problems to diagnose. If the engine wouldn’t restart it would be as simple as just figuring out if it isn’t getting fuel or spark. But since it starts right back up it make it that much more difficult. I would guess a loose connection or a failing sensor. As for which one, difficult to tell. Unfortunately in this case it would be more cost effective to let the problem get worse in order to know exactly what to repair/replace. No need to through parts at it if you don’t have to.

What does code P1633 mean?

P1633 means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected low voltage on the keep alive memory circuit. This is the circuit that supplies constant battery voltage to the keep alive memory portion of the PCM so it can retain information regarding fuel control, idle control and transmission control adaptive strategies to name a few. If the battery is disconnected or voltage drops below 10.5 volts this code will be set. If the battery has not been disconnected then the circuit will need to be checked for opens or high resistance in the wire, shorts, blown fuse, high voltage r/f interference from ignition or charging system components, or the PCM being being faulty itself.

Ford Code P1633

KAM Volt Low

Code P1633 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. Battery voltage low

Ford Code P0462

Fuel level sensor A circuit low input

Code P0462 Probable Causes

  1. Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
  5. Powertrain or Engine Control Module faulty
  6. Battery voltage low

Sources: Justanswer, Chilton