Goes into every gear except drive. Anyone else ever had this issue or fixed it before on an A4LD 4wd Tranny? Ive been a professional mechanic for almost 10 years now and I’ve never seen a tranny that would go into every other gear except drive. I just really don’t want to throw a new transmission in it if its something simple or if the one I’ve got is still good and I just overlooked something.
The biggest indicator would be the color of the fluid. Wipe some on a paper towel and then dab a bit of fresh fluid on it to compare. If it is dark looking then the clutches are probably burnt and will need to come apart. If the fluid is clean, then there is probably an issue with the linkage.
The air conditioning system has extremely high suction pressure of 250 psi and discharge pressure of 170 psi what could be the problem.
With R134a it’s common to see high side pressure between 2.2 and 2.5 times ambient temperature. On that same 80 degree day we would see between 176 and 200 PSI on the high side of an R134a system. The system operates in a specific range based on outside ambient temperature. High side pressure has a broad range relative to temperature because of heat load on the evaporator, humidity, airflow across the condenser, and engine speed.
The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Monitor is an on-board strategy designed to monitor the HO2S sensors for a malfunction or deterioration that can affect emissions. Under specific conditions, the fuel control or upstream HO2S sensors are checked for proper output voltage and response rate (the time it takes to switch from lean to rich or rich to lean). Downstream HO2S sensors used for Catalyst Monitor are also monitored for proper output voltage. Input is required from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) or Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT), Inlet Air Temperature (IAT), Mass Air Flow (MAF), Throttle Position (TP) and Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensors to activate the HO2S Monitor. The Fuel System Monitor and Misfire Detection Monitor must also have completed successfully before the HO2S Monitor is enabled.
• The HO2S sensor senses the oxygen content in the exhaust flow and outputs a voltage between zero and 1.0 volt. Lean of stoichiometric (air/fuel ratio of approximately 14.7:1 for gasoline engines), the HO2S will generate a voltage between zero and 0.45 volt. Rich of stoichiometric, the HO2S will generate a voltage between 0.45 and 1.0 volt.
The HO2S Monitor evaluates both the upstream (Fuel Control) and downstream (Catalyst Monitor) HO2S for proper function.
Once the HO2S Monitor is enabled, the upstream HO2S signal voltage amplitude and response frequency are checked. Excessive voltage is determined by comparing the HO2S signal voltage to a maximum calibratable threshold voltage.
A fixed frequency closed loop fuel control routine is executed and the upstream HO2S voltage amplitude and output response frequency are observed. A sample of the upstream HO2S signal is evaluated to determine if the sensor is capable of switching or has a slow response rate.
An HO2S heater circuit fault is determined by turning the heater on and off and looking for a corresponding change in the OSM and by measuring the current going through the heater circuit.
The MIL is activated after a fault is detected on two consecutive OBD II drive cycles.
My ignition has been kind of loose. Yesterday it would not start. It did absolutely nothing. It will start when pushing on the ignition switch. (this is after taking off all the plastic covers around the steering column) I thought it needs a new ignition tumbler. But my friend, her fella told me it needs a new steering column. He says there is a plastic rod that goes to the ignition it goes down the steering column, the whole thing needs replaced. Is this true? I’ve been online today watching YouTube videos of different ignition problems, but not one said anything about a rod going down the steering column this seems like it will be an expensive fix if it is true.
When looking over the disassembly of the steering column I did not see any such plastic rod. I know there is typically one on Chevy’s around that year. The Ford Steering column generally places the ignition switch in a location that a rod is not needed. I also looked at the replacement of the ignition key and tumbler and the ignition switch itself. I did not see a mention of such a plastic rod. This doesn’t mean there isn’t one there if your fella actually took the ignition switch and or Key and tumbler out and saw one. But until it is fully inspected it is hard to say from looking at the manuals.
Everything is new on the breaks side. Wheel cylinders, master cylinder, booster, abs hydraulic unit, (proportioning valve) lines so when I bleed breaks with truck off get a perfect pedal but when you turn truck on slowly goes to the floor. Please help
The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system can be bled in the conventional manner unless the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) has been replaced. Only perform this procedure if the HCU has been replaced.
NOTE: Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Don’t leave the master cylinder or the fluid container uncovered any longer than necessary. Be careful handling the fluid — it will damage the vehicle’s paint.
Press down on the brake pedal and depress the VALVES button on the bleeder box (brake pedal will fall.
Release the VALVES button and release the brake pedal.
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 once more.
Depress the MOTOR START button and let the pump motor run for 1 minute.
Pressure bleed the brake system.
Check the level of the fluid often when bleeding, and refill the reservoirs as necessary. Don’t let them run dry, or you will have to repeat the process.
Have an assistant push the brake pedal down slowly through its full travel. Close the bleeder fitting and allow the pedal to slowly return to its full release position. Wait 5 seconds and repeat the procedure until no bubbles appear at the submerged end of the bleeder tube. Secure the bleeder fitting and remove the bleeder tube. Install the rubber dust cap on the bleeder fitting.
Repeat the bleeding procedure at the left front, left rear and right front (in that order). Refill the master cylinder reservoir after each caliper has been bled, and install the master cylinder cap and gasket. When brake bleeding is completed, the fluid level should be filled to the maximum level indicated on the reservoir.
Always make sure the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions by depressing the brake pedal several times until normal pedal travel is established. If the pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure.
After finishing, there should be no feeling of sponginess in the brake pedal. If there is, either there is still air in the line, in which case the process must be repeated, or there is a leak somewhere, which, of course, must be corrected before the vehicle is moved. After all repairs and service work is finished, road test the vehicle to verify proper brake system operation.
The steering became really easy to turn the wheel. Also it will not return to straight after turning it. If I am making a turn, I have to return the steering to straight manually. Any ideas of what this could be?
Steering return ability
Typically, poor steering return is caused by a steering gear issue. One that is too tight or improperly adjusted. If the steering sector is over-tightened, it causes the sector shaft to put too much pressure against the gear. This can occur when someone attempts to remove excess play from the steering system. Sticking or binding components may have an impact. For example king pins, ball joints or even the steering column can prevent the steering wheel from returning to center. Alignment can also be a factor. Improper caster, and to some degree, improper toe-in, can be contributing factors.
Diagnosing return ability issues
The first step to curing a return ability problem is to trace down what component or components is causing it. What we’ll typically do first is determine if there is anything sticking. We start at the steering wheel and work our way down. Often, we’ll disconnect components along the way to isolate them from the rest of the system. For example, we may disconnect the pitman arm from the steering gear to see if it’s the steering gear. Or we’ll jack the front axle up, move the wheels side to side to see if we have binding in the steering linkage, ball joints or king pin. If there is binding at that point, we’ll disconnect individual tie rods from either side to find out which side is sticky.
If nothing appears to be binding or sticking in the, we then check the wheel alignment and see where the caster and toe are set. It may seem counter intuitive to check the alignment after the components, but if anything is worn out, it must be replaced before it can be properly aligned.
I have a 1990 Ford F250 7.5L v8 2WD. A few weeks ago I added oil(the correct kind) and the truck began to have a ticking sound from under the truck. And when I’m slowly accelerating at 35mph to 45mph there is a shudder from the entire truck. Also when I hit 70mph the truck runs terribly. I thought it was the U-Joints so I replaced those but they where not the cause. I individually pulled the spark plug wires off the distributor as the truck was idling and the tick was constant. The truck has plenty of transmission fluid(right color right smell) and is shifting properly. It is however running rich and it does not have the usual deep rumble when accelerating. The truck has 168000 miles.
Sometimes a ticking sound can be from different things. It can be internal in the engine caused from lack of lubrication or worn parts. It can be external from a bearing on a tensioner or pulley. And can sometimes be from an electrical short from a plug or plug wire. Sometimes it can even be inside the distributor cap.
Since your truck is also running rough and rich the ticking sound may be relevant.
First of all if the check engine light is on or not check for any stored codes and post them below. The codes can be checked without a scan tool.
Furthermore if no engine trouble codes are found you can move on to eliminating a few things. Remove the drive belt/s and start the engine for a short period. Listen to see if the ticking sound has gone since the drive pulleys are not being turned. If the noise is gone, spin the pulleys by hand and replace the faulty part. Noise still there? Put the belt back on. Remove the spark plugs and examine each one carefully. Look for one or ones that are fouled. This will indicate a cylinder that is not firing properly. Examine the spark plug wires for those plugs for any cracks or burn marks. If the wires lay against the block they can burn and cause an arch that can be heard as a ticking sound. Also if a spark plug has a crack in it the same may occur.
I’ve replaced all transmission solenoids and fluids. I am still getting codes p0755 and p0753 and o/o light flashes when I drive. The transmission is shifting but not as smooth as I think it can. I am thinking the ECM is faulty. Is that possible or should I look elsewhere? I need to get these codes cleared so I can smog it. I have cleared the codes with the diagnostic tool but same codes come back and flashing o/o light. It is a 2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71 Police Interceptor.
I think the o/o light you are talking about is actually the O/D light. This stands for Over Drive.
O/D Off light flashing
Most likely cause
In later years of this model production (aprox. 1995-2003) these vehicles were equipped with either a 4R44E transmission or (1999 and later) a 5R55E transmission. The former has a speed sensor located near the tail shaft housing that, when going out or has gone out, will cause the O/D Off light to flash intermittently or constantly. On the latter (5R55E) this sensor is located inside of the transmission and will cause the same symptoms. This sensor helps the computer to determine proper shift points. In conclusion a bad sensor can cause hard shifting, delayed shifting or even failure to shift, resulting in premature transmission failure. Therefore replacing the VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor might be the best move.
Ford Code P0755 – Shift Solenoid 2 Circuit Malfunction
The P0755 code is detected when TCM detects an improper voltage drop when it tries to operate the solenoid valve. Shift solenoid valve 2 is turned ON or OFF by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch, vehicle speed and Engine Control Module (ECM) (throttle opening). Gears will then be shifted to the optimum position.
The Code P0753 occurs when the ECM has detected a mechanical fault with the solenoid energized, valve stuck off. Shift solenoid valve 1 is turned ON or OFF by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch, vehicle speed and Engine Control Module (ECM) (throttle opening). Gears will then be shifted to the optimum position.
I have a 2004 Ford Focus ZTW 2.3l with Engine Code P0302. The engine is missing on cylinder #2. This happens once the car is well warmed up. I tried replacing the spark plugs and that specific coil to no avail.
The P0302 code means that the cylinder 2 is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks an if no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 2. If the problem persist more tests needs to be done to diagnose problem, continue with Possible Cause.