Jan 072017
 

1991 Ford F250I have a 1991 Ford F250, 5.8L that is 2WD and has 126,000 miles on it. Purchased this truck about 3 years ago (really good price). I did not have the time or need to get it repaired and did not want to deal with ridiculous CA SMOG regulations. When I purchased it the check engine light was on. I did some troubleshooting and replaced the fuel filter, idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. This took care of the CEL. I then tried to have it SMOG’d and it failed because it was smoking (valve cover leaks). In July I purchased valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, cap and rotor to clean things up and make it run better. It passed SMOG test in September and my son started driving it.

It ran well for about two months. One day my son was driving to work and the truck stalled (in neighborhood) and would not restart. I pushed it out of the road and went back to get it home a couple of days later. It started immediately, I drove it home (1\2 mile) and switched the fuel tanks a couple of times without issue.

I hooked it up to my tester and it produced a code 67 for a neutral position switch problem. We replaced that and it started and drove great for a couple of days. Then it happened again. Driving around the neighborhood it stalled and would not start again. It took a few days to get back to it and again once it was started it drove home fine (again, only about 1\8 mile). We again hooked up the tester to the truck and it returned a Code 11 (All Clear).

I am thinking it is a fuel issue of some kind. The truck sat for a while (three years) so I am wondering if there might some junk in the fuel tank(s) that could be clogging things up. I don’t think there is a pump problem because it does run after it sits for a couple of days. Appreciate any help you can give.


RESPONSE

You can test it when it won’t start to see what the engine is not getting. I would put my money on a NO Spark issue. A quick spray of starting fluid in the air filter when it won’t start is a quick and easy test. If the engine runs on the starting fluid you know it is a fuel related problem. If it does not then you know it is an electrical issue.

I am guessing electrical issue because it is pretty common for what you are describing. It starts and runs fine when cold but once it warms, the engine dies. Leave it set long enough to cool down and the engine starts back up and runs. This is exactly what happens when the Ignition Control Module starts to fail. The part is fairly inexpensive and easy enough to change out yourself. The replacement instructions taken from the manual (see below) indicate you need to remove the distributor, but in most cases this does not need to be done.

Ignition Control Module

I have look up the Ignition Control Module for you and double checked to make sure it will fit your application. Just follow the image to purchase the part for $32.15 from Amazon.

Ignition Control Module Replacement

  1. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor, and set it aside (spark plug wires still connected).
  2. Disconnect the harness connector.
  3. Remove the distributor.
  4. Remove the TFI module retaining screws.
    WARNING
    Step 5 must be followed EXACTLY; failure to do so will result in damage to the distributor module connector pins.
  5. To disengage the TFI module’s terminals from the distributor base connector, pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up. Carefully pull the module toward the flange and away from the distributor.
  6. Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ–19A331–A or its equivalent).
  7. Place the TFI module on the distributor base mounting flange. Position the module assembly toward the distributor bowl and carefully engage the distributor connector pins. Install and torque the two TFI module retaining screws to 9–16 inch lbs.
  8. Install the distributor assembly.
  9. Install the distributor cap and check the engine timing.
Jan 052017
 

1992 Ford Crown VictoriaIdle is up and down. Car stalling when not giving it gas and stalls when at stop signs/lights.


RESPONSE

Stalling with Idle Up and Down

This is an indication of an IAC(Idle Air Control) valve sticking or a vacuum leak. If there is a vacuum leak the IAC will still try to hunt for the correct idle speed but has difficulty. The difficulty if from the vacuum leak. The most common place for a vacuum leak on your engine would be the PCV valve hose. Listen for a slight whistle noise.

Dec 302016
 

1997 Ford F350Blinker fuse keeps blowing


RESPONSE

The most common reason for a fuse to blow is when the circuit is shorted.

SHORT CIRCUITS

NOTE: Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.

  1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground.
  2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit.
  3. If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.
  4. To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity).
  5. Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken.
  6. When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were opened.

Source: //www.FreeAutoMechanic.com/wiringproblems 6.html

Dec 252016
 

1998 Ford F150It wont start and sounds like its not getting any fuel! I think its the fuel pump but I was wondering if I should check the fuel relay first?


RESPONSE

A quick test would be to spray some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it will try to run on that. If it does, then you know you are not getting fuel and the engine is getting spark. At this point you can concentrate on the fuel system.

You may want to check the fuel relay and the inertia switch(fuel cut off). The inertia switch is located under the passenger side floor mat toward the dash. Check the relay also applying battery positive and negative directly to the pump to check it. If it is coming on you may need to check the fuel pressure next.

Dec 182016
 

2002 Ford Explorer Sport TracI have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with an intermittent crank no start in varying outside temps. Alternator volts @14.2. Battery live. Fuel pump hums (primes) when turned over. When “crank no start occurs”, jump start with or without charge starts vehicle. Where do I start?


RESPONSE

Intermittent Crank No Start

Replace the battery. Most likely the battery has an internal short. The battery has enough juice to crank a little but not enough to do the job proper. This is why it doesn’t take much to jump start it.

Battery

Removal and Installation
  1. Disconnect the battery cables. For additional information, refer to Battery Disconnect in this section.
  2. Remove the battery heat shield.
  3. Remove the hold-down bolt and the bracket.

battery hold down 2002 Ford Explorer

  1. Take out the battery.

WARNING: When lifting a battery, excessive pressure on the end walls could cause acid to spew through the vent caps, resulting in personal injury. Lift with a battery carrier or with your hands on opposite corners.

  • To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

Dec 182016
 

2008 Ford Escapeclunk noise over bumps when turning


Noises can be difficult to diagnose since you generally need to be moving to reproduce them. However it is not impossible. Some testing and checking will be needed to narrow down the reason. It maybe a strut/shock mount, worn sway bar links or something loose in the steering. There are many possibilities that will require confirmation. Here is an excellent article on how to narrow down the noise.

Dec 082016
 

1976 Ford F250Do you have a parts diagram and instruction manual for replacing my rear brake drum, or wheel bearings?


RESPONSE

Rear Brake Drum Inspection

Check that there are no cracks or chips in the braking surface. Excessive bluing indicates overheating and a replacement drum is needed. The drum can be machined to remove minor damage and to establish a rounded braking surface on a warped drum. Never exceed the maximum oversize of the drum when machining the braking surface. The maximum inside diameter is stamped on the rim of the drum.

 

rear brake drum axle diagram 1976 Ford F250Rear Brake Drum Replacement

Bronco, F-150, and F-250 Light Duty

1.Raise the vehicle so that the wheel to be worked on is clear of the floor and install jackstands under the vehicle.
2.Remove the wheel. Remove the three retaining nuts and remove the brake drum. It may be necessary to back off the brake shoe adjustment in order to remove the brake drum. This is because the drum might be grooved or worn from being in service for an extended period of time.
3.Before installing a new brake drum, be sure to remove any protective coating with carburetor degreaser.
4.Install the brake drum in the reverse order of removal and adjust the brakes.

F-250HD, F-350

1.Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2.Remove the wheel. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.
3.Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.
4.Take Off the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.
5.Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.
6.Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum from the hub.
To install:

7.Place the drum on the hub and attach it to the hub with the attaching nuts and bolts.
8.Place the hub and drum assembly on the axle and start the adjusting nut.
9.Adjust the wheel bearing nut and install the wheel bearing lockwasher and locknut.
10.Install the axle shaft with a new gasket and install the axle retaining bolts and lockwashers.
11.Install the wheel and adjust the brake shoes. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.

Dec 072016
 

1997 Ford ContourMy Sisters car is a  1997 Ford Contour 2.0L. It stopped blowing hot air and then a couple days later her temp gauge is not going up, the car overheats then shuts off. I changed the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor and it is doing the same thing. Now I find out there is a temperature SENDING unit. If this is bad I understand this could cause the gauge not to work but can it cause the car to overheat?


RESPONSE

The most common cause for your situation would be a leak in the cooling system. The coolant level drops and causes the car temperature gauge to read hot. And when this occurs there is no longer enough coolant to produce heat therefore no more blowing hot air. Until the leak is repaired the cooling system will not work properly as it needs to be able to build pressure.

Temperature Sending Unit

Some engines have a temperature sending unit that is used just for the gauge on the dash. The engine will have a separate sensor for the engines computer. They are both referred to as an ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. On your engine there appears to be two ECT Sensors according to the wiring diagrams. The one with WHT/GRN and Brn/GRN wires is used for the engine controls. The other with WHT/RED and BLK/BLU wires is for the gauge on the dash.

Looking at the repair manual information it is sort of vague. There is an ECT sensor shown in the Thermostat housing and stated there may be another mounted in the engine block or engine head assembly.

temperature sensor

I have found that sometimes it is beneficial to use a hand held infra-red temperature gauge to assist in these situations. This is better than relying on a gauge that may not be reading correctly.

 

Dec 062016
 

2013 Ford TaurusCannot find the washer fuse for the Windshield Washer, none found in auto owner’s manual. Washers don’t work, even though wipers do. No motor noise and fluid is full. Where is the fuse? what number is it?


RESPONSE

There is not a separate washer fuse. The washer receives its power from the windshield wiper motor. So if the wipers work, the problem is not fuse related. Either the washer pump motor has failed, the connections or wiring are faulty or the internal relay in the wiper motor has failed.

Mist Wipe/Windshield Washer Operation

When the washer switch (on the end of the stalk) is momentarily pressed and released, a single wipe of the windshield wipers occurs. When pressed and held in, the windshield wiper motor activates the wipers and the wash relay (internal to the windshield wiper motor), providing voltage to the washer pump and directing washer fluid to the windshield. After the switch is released, the windshield wiper motor continues to activate the windshield wipers for 3 additional wipes and then turns the windshield wipers off.

Wiper/Washer Wiring Diagram – Washer Fuse

2013-ford-taurus-color-schematics-wiper-washer-1-of-1

Washer Pump Replacement

Removal and Installation

  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
  1. Remove the front lower air deflector.
  1. Remove the RH front fender splash shield.
  1. WARNING: Carefully read cautionary information on product label. For emergency medical information seek medical advice. In the USA or Canada on Ford/Motorcraft products call: 1-800-959-3673. For additional information, consult the product Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) if available. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.NOTICE: When installing a new washer pump, be careful not to damage the rubber grommet. NOTE: To prevent spilling windshield washer fluid, drain the washer reservoir before washer pump removal.

    Remove the washer pump in the following sequence.

    1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
    1. Disconnect the washer hose.
    1. Remove the washer pump.
  1. NOTICE: Do not operate the washer pump prior to filling the washer reservoir. Failure to follow this instruction may result in premature washer pump failure. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
    • Fill the washer reservoir with windshield washer fluid.
Dec 052016
 

2004 Ford F250I HAVE DONE AN OIL CHANGE ON MY TRUCK AND BOUGHT MOTORCRAFT FILTER FL820S. But when I screw the filter on, it does not fit tightly against the filter adapter. There is a gap and is now leaking. It is not cross threaded and the new gasket is intact.  The old gasket is not still left on. What have I done wrong?


RESPONSE

Oil Filter

Try putting the old filter back on and if it works fine then the problem is with the replacement filter. The Motorcraft oil filter part number is correct. There may just be an imperfection with the filter. It happens sometimes, but not too often with filters. There might just be a slight burr on the threads or something. If you find the old filter does the same thing as the NEW filter now, you will need to look closer. Make sure the adapter threads have not come out to far and do not need to be re-seated.