Jan 202017

2004 Ford FocusI have a 2004 Ford Focus ZTW 2.3l with Engine Code P0302. The engine is missing on cylinder #2. This happens once the car is well warmed up. I tried replacing the spark plugs and that specific coil to no avail.


Ford Code P0302 – Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected

When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed fluctuates enough to cause the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor signal to vary, the Engine Control Module (ECM) can determine that a misfire is occurring.

The P0302 code means that the cylinder 2 is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks an if no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 2. If the problem persist more tests needs to be done to diagnose problem, continue with Possible Cause.

Code P0302 Possible causes

  • Faulty spark plug 2
  • Clogged or faulty fuel injector 2
  • Faulty ignition coil 2
  • Fuel injector 2 harness is open or shorted
  • Fuel injector 2 circuit poor electrical connection
  • Ignition coil 2 harness is open or shorted
  • Ignition coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
  • Insufficient cylinder 2 compression
  • Incorrect fuel pressure
  • Intake air leak
Jan 172017

Ford F150Coolant is leaking from under passenger side exhaust manifold. I was wondering if it would be a hose or a freeze plug? It is a 1999 Ford F150 XL with a 4.2L V6.


How to Locate Coolant Leak

There are a few things to do in order to locate an external coolant leak. Fist top of the coolant level. I recommend using water since you will loose it on the ground anyway. Once the coolant is topped off you will need to put the cooling system under pressure. You will need a cooling system pressure tester for this. Take note of the max pressure on the radiator cap. Pump the pressure tester up to the max pressure you noted from the radiator cap. Look around the engine bay for the coolant spraying out. Now that you have spotted the coolant spraying out you know exactly where the leak is coming from.

What Next

Remove the cooling system pressure tester. Repair the leak. Once again top off the cooling system with water. Then connect the pressure tester and pump it up once more. It is good practice to check for additional leaks now before putting expensive fresh coolant back into the system. Once you see the pressure holding on the gauge of the tester go ahead and remove the tester. Drain the cooling system. Re-fill the cooling system with 50/50 mix. Run the engine with the radiator cap removed for a few minutes or long enough to top off the coolant level. Replace the radiator cap and test drive. It is a good idea to check the coolant level a few times over the next couple of days to ensure a proper level is maintained.

Jan 102017

Ford KAMy Ford Ka wont turn over. It was OK one min then just wouldn’t start. I tried another battery still nothing. It wont bump start or start off jump leads.


Sounds like you have lost battery connection to the system. Check for corrosion on the battery connections and possibly internal in the cables themselves. Check for a blown fuse or fusible links.

Jan 092017

2000 Ford ExplorerThe motor is a 5.0 fuel injection. It runs like a motor that has a vapor lock. I have changed the internal fuel pump twice, the fuel filter a dozen times. The Ford dealer here told me it was the upper manifold gasket. That was changed, but did no good. The car only has 65,000 miles on it. If you have any ideas I would greatly appreciate it


Would be helpful if you had any check engine light codes. Post them below if there are any.

My guess would be a clogged converter or faulty MAF sensor.


Jan 072017

1991 Ford F250I have a 1991 Ford F250, 5.8L that is 2WD and has 126,000 miles on it. Purchased this truck about 3 years ago (really good price). I did not have the time or need to get it repaired and did not want to deal with ridiculous CA SMOG regulations. When I purchased it the check engine light was on. I did some troubleshooting and replaced the fuel filter, idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. This took care of the CEL. I then tried to have it SMOG’d and it failed because it was smoking (valve cover leaks). In July I purchased valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, cap and rotor to clean things up and make it run better. It passed SMOG test in September and my son started driving it.

It ran well for about two months. One day my son was driving to work and the truck stalled (in neighborhood) and would not restart. I pushed it out of the road and went back to get it home a couple of days later. It started immediately, I drove it home (1\2 mile) and switched the fuel tanks a couple of times without issue.

I hooked it up to my tester and it produced a code 67 for a neutral position switch problem. We replaced that and it started and drove great for a couple of days. Then it happened again. Driving around the neighborhood it stalled and would not start again. It took a few days to get back to it and again once it was started it drove home fine (again, only about 1\8 mile). We again hooked up the tester to the truck and it returned a Code 11 (All Clear).

I am thinking it is a fuel issue of some kind. The truck sat for a while (three years) so I am wondering if there might some junk in the fuel tank(s) that could be clogging things up. I don’t think there is a pump problem because it does run after it sits for a couple of days. Appreciate any help you can give.


You can test it when it won’t start to see what the engine is not getting. I would put my money on a NO Spark issue. A quick spray of starting fluid in the air filter when it won’t start is a quick and easy test. If the engine runs on the starting fluid you know it is a fuel related problem. If it does not then you know it is an electrical issue.

I am guessing electrical issue because it is pretty common for what you are describing. It starts and runs fine when cold but once it warms, the engine dies. Leave it set long enough to cool down and the engine starts back up and runs. This is exactly what happens when the Ignition Control Module starts to fail. The part is fairly inexpensive and easy enough to change out yourself. The replacement instructions taken from the manual (see below) indicate you need to remove the distributor, but in most cases this does not need to be done.

Ignition Control Module

I have look up the Ignition Control Module for you and double checked to make sure it will fit your application. Just follow the image to purchase the part for $32.15 from Amazon.

Ignition Control Module Replacement

  1. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor, and set it aside (spark plug wires still connected).
  2. Disconnect the harness connector.
  3. Remove the distributor.
  4. Remove the TFI module retaining screws.
    Step 5 must be followed EXACTLY; failure to do so will result in damage to the distributor module connector pins.
  5. To disengage the TFI module’s terminals from the distributor base connector, pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up. Carefully pull the module toward the flange and away from the distributor.
  6. Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ–19A331–A or its equivalent).
  7. Place the TFI module on the distributor base mounting flange. Position the module assembly toward the distributor bowl and carefully engage the distributor connector pins. Install and torque the two TFI module retaining screws to 9–16 inch lbs.
  8. Install the distributor assembly.
  9. Install the distributor cap and check the engine timing.
Jan 052017

1992 Ford Crown VictoriaIdle is up and down. Car stalling when not giving it gas and stalls when at stop signs/lights.


Stalling with Idle Up and Down

This is an indication of an IAC(Idle Air Control) valve sticking or a vacuum leak. If there is a vacuum leak the IAC will still try to hunt for the correct idle speed but has difficulty. The difficulty if from the vacuum leak. The most common place for a vacuum leak on your engine would be the PCV valve hose. Listen for a slight whistle noise.

Dec 302016

1997 Ford F350Blinker fuse keeps blowing


The most common reason for a fuse to blow is when the circuit is shorted.


NOTE: Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.

  1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground.
  2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit.
  3. If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.
  4. To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity).
  5. Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken.
  6. When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were opened.

Source: //www.FreeAutoMechanic.com/wiringproblems 6.html

Dec 252016

1998 Ford F150It wont start and sounds like its not getting any fuel! I think its the fuel pump but I was wondering if I should check the fuel relay first?


A quick test would be to spray some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it will try to run on that. If it does, then you know you are not getting fuel and the engine is getting spark. At this point you can concentrate on the fuel system.

You may want to check the fuel relay and the inertia switch(fuel cut off). The inertia switch is located under the passenger side floor mat toward the dash. Check the relay also applying battery positive and negative directly to the pump to check it. If it is coming on you may need to check the fuel pressure next.

Dec 182016

2002 Ford Explorer Sport TracI have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with an intermittent crank no start in varying outside temps. Alternator volts @14.2. Battery live. Fuel pump hums (primes) when turned over. When “crank no start occurs”, jump start with or without charge starts vehicle. Where do I start?


Intermittent Crank No Start

Replace the battery. Most likely the battery has an internal short. The battery has enough juice to crank a little but not enough to do the job proper. This is why it doesn’t take much to jump start it.


Removal and Installation
  1. Disconnect the battery cables. For additional information, refer to Battery Disconnect in this section.
  2. Remove the battery heat shield.
  3. Remove the hold-down bolt and the bracket.

battery hold down 2002 Ford Explorer

  1. Take out the battery.

WARNING: When lifting a battery, excessive pressure on the end walls could cause acid to spew through the vent caps, resulting in personal injury. Lift with a battery carrier or with your hands on opposite corners.

  • To install, reverse the removal procedure.


Dec 182016

2008 Ford Escapeclunk noise over bumps when turning

Noises can be difficult to diagnose since you generally need to be moving to reproduce them. However it is not impossible. Some testing and checking will be needed to narrow down the reason. It maybe a strut/shock mount, worn sway bar links or something loose in the steering. There are many possibilities that will require confirmation. Here is an excellent article on how to narrow down the noise.