My 2006 Ford Taurus runs fine on open road. When I stop for a break, and restart the engine, it starts to shake really bad and tries to die! If I turn the key off and back on and restart a couple of times it runs OK once again! Service light staying on! Could it be the idle control valve?
There could be something wrong with the IAC. Since the check engine light is on there is no need to guess. Just have the diagnostic trouble codes scanned and post them below in the comments. Save money and let your local auto parts dealer scan the codes for free.
My car running very rough. I’ve changed the spark plugs not the plugs. Gave a oil change not the the filter. Cleaned the idle air control. Car was running a bit better. The car will rev high then low like its gonna stall (sometimes it does) . it also backfires when reving randomly.
Sounds like the IAC – Idle Air Control is hunting. This typically happens when there is a vacuum leak. It can also happen with no vacuum leak except internal in the IAC.
Not sure what you mean by “changed the spark plugs not the plugs”. Did the plugs get changed or not?
Check Engine Light On
Since your vehicle is older than 1996 you can perform computer diagnostics without the ned for a scan tool. This will pull any stored diagnostic trouble code from the computer. Any code stored will help guide us in the right direction. Post all codes in the comments for further information on them.
Car randomly will not start. Battery is good and starter was changed. No 12 volt cranking voltage at starter. No security lights flashing and a new key doesn’t fix the problem. Swapped starter relay didn’t fix either. How can I find out whats wrong? After 20 to 30 minutes, car will start again
Sounds like you got yourself a good one. Since you have a multi-meter to check voltage you can continue with that. This will narrow down the issue for sure. There is no battery voltage at the “S” terminal when it will not start. This is a great first step. Swapping out the starter relay is a great second step but don’t stop there. We need to make sure battery voltage is at the relay and that the relay is working and sending out voltage. Could be the shifter isn’t going all the way in park or the switch is worn. But testing will confirm the cause.
Testing the relay
You should see battery voltage at pin#3(brown/pink wire) and when activated(ignition key put in “START” position) you should see that voltage leaving the relay on pin#5(white/pink wire).
If this does not happen and you do have battery voltage at pin#3 then the next step is to check for battery positive and negative at pin #1 and #2. If no voltage is found then you need to trace from the PCM and from the park/neutral switch.
I will provide you with a wiring diagram of the starting system to help assist you.
Starting System Wiring Diagram 2005 Ford Five Hundred
I have a v6 2007 Taurus with engine light on . Engine code reads bad cat converter and i need it fixed for emissions however car runs great. question is , if i get a universal catalytic converter to save a lot of money will the light go off or does it have to be a manufacture cat converter specific to my car
You can opt for the universal converter but at a cost. The effectiveness of the universal will not be the same as the direct fit. Also the old converter will need to be removed and the universal converter welded in its place. This means extra time and labor which is usually a wash. I recommend using the direct fit catalytic converter when replacing it.
Direct Fit Catalytic Converter
Universal Catalytic Converter
Removal and Installation
1.With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist.
Remove and discard the 2 nuts and the muffler clamp. •To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
Remove the 2 catalytic converter-to-exhaust Y-pipe nuts and the catalytic converter. •Discard the nuts and the gasket.•To install, tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
NOTE: Clean the mating surfaces of the catalytic converter and the dual converter Y-pipe.
NOTE: To correctly seat the converters, alternately tighten the catalytic converter-to-exhaust Y-pipe nuts to specification.
To install, reverse the removal procedure. •Install new nuts, gasket and muffler clamp.
My car will start when it is cold but once I drive, even a short distance, it will not start again until it is completely cool again. I had it in a shop where the guy changed the fuel pump, sending unit, fuel regulator, the air flow thing, sorry don’t know what it is called. Nothing changed and he just kept wanting to working on my car. I just could not keep paying this guy when my car still does the same thing it always did. He also changed something he said would be in place of a cap and rotor because my car is fuel injected. I don’t remember the name of that part either. I feel like he was taking advantage of me because I am female. Sorry but that is how I felt. Help please. I have to figure this out.
Most likely cause of this issue would be the ignition control module. When an ignition module is failing it will act just like you described. It sounds like the shop you took it to is just throwing parts at it with the hopes it fixes it. You may want to take it to a different shop and start from scratch. They may want to diagnose the issue and run a few tests but better than paying for parts you do not need.
What you need the shop to do
You will want to have the shop test for what the engine is not getting when it will not restart. This will help guide them in the right direction. An engine needs four things to run and without one of them it will not run.
Fuel – Fuel Pressure and Fuel Injector Pulse(it sprays fuel)
We can rule out compression and timing as we know it does run for a short time. And since it starts up after it cools down it is less common for it to be a fuel related issue. The shop can test for fuel and spark when it is not starting. Since it happens often it shouldn’t be to difficult to test. Once they identify what it is not getting they can concentrate on the individual components of each system.
Hi All, i had a cam belt failure, caused damage to values etc, so had head done at engineering shop.
Also refurbished injector pump, fitted 4 injectors(tested and verified ok), replaced copper washers at bottom of injectors and the injector seals.
On start up noticed small oil leak at base of back injector(closest to cab).
We removed the injectors and re-seated the seals, then refitted injectors.
On start up everything ok till we revved, then oil spewing out at base of all four injectors.
Need help please- what can be wrong?
It would seem the wrong seals or washers are being used. Try the old seals and washers as a test.
Rear wiper works intermittently. Sometimes it works half across the window, other times it wipes 2,3,or 12 times across .
Rear Wiper Arm
First thing to look at would be the mounting of the rear window wiper arm also since it is easy to get to. There is a retaining nut on arm that at times may come loose and need to be tightened. If the retaining nut is found secure the next step would be to replace the rear wiper motor assembly.
Rear Window Wiper Motor Replacement
Removal and Installation
1.Remove the rear pivot arm. For additional information, refer to Wiper Pivot Arm — Rear in this section.
2.Remove the rear window wiper motor shaft nut cover.
3.Remove the rear window wiper motor shaft nut. •To install, hand-tighten the nut, then tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
4.Open the liftgate window.
5.Remove the rear window wiper motor cover trim panel.
6.Remove the rear wiper motor.
1.Disconnect the electrical connector.
2.Remove the 2 rear window wiper motor nuts. ◾To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
I have 2004 Ford F-150, 5.4 Triton V8. When I run it from cold start it runs fine for a bout 20-30 minutes. Once it warms up, it starts to sputter and stall out. Also, while driving when come to a stop, it stalls. We took the electronic throttle body apart, replaced the throttle position sensor, cleaned the body, and replaced the motor, all but buy a whole new throttle body. Cleaned the MAF as well. Had a cylinder 4 missfire and a camshaft sensor code come up so replaced both. I am at my witts end here and am about to pull out my hair because of this. Also replaced all of my spark plugs. Can someone please help.
I might lean toward the ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor since it runs fine until it warms up. This can be caused by a stuck sensor reading. If the PCM continues to be told the engine is still cold once it has warmed the PCM doesn’t know and continues to flood the engine with incorrect amounts of fuel.
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
An Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor is a thermistor device in which resistance changes with temperature. The electrical resistance of a thermistor decreases as the temperature increases, and the resistance increases as the temperature decreases. The varying resistance changes the voltage drop across the sensor terminals and provides electrical signals to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) corresponding to temperature.
Thermistor-type sensors are considered passive sensors. A passive sensor is connected to a voltage divider network so varying the resistance of the passive sensor causes a variation in total current flow. Voltage that is dropped across a fixed resistor (pull-up resister) in series with the sensor resistor determines the voltage signal at the PCM. This voltage signal is equal to the reference voltage minus the voltage drop across the fixed resistor.
The ECT measures the temperature of the engine coolant. The PCM uses the ECT input for fuel control and for cooling fan control. There are 3 types of ECT sensors; threaded, push-in, and twist-lock. The ECT sensor is located in an engine coolant passage.
Ford Code P0304 – Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
Ford Code P0304 Possible causes
•Faulty spark plug 4
•Clogged or faulty fuel injector 4
•Faulty ignition coil 4
•Fuel injector 4 harness is open or shorted
•Fuel injector 4 circuit poor electrical connection
•Ignition coil 4 harness is open or shorted
•Ignition coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection
•Insufficient cylinder 4 compression
•Incorrect fuel pressure
•Intake air leak
The Ford Code P0304 means that the cylinder 4 is misfiring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks an if no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 4.
When I turn off the truck and take the keys out of the ignition, my trucks electrical components such as fuel gauge and odometer is still on. The next day my truck’s battery is dead. Please help me find the cause. Thanks!
Most likely reason would be the ignition switch(not the key and tumbler) is not being turned off. This can be from a failing ignition switch. If the key lock cylinder has been recently replaced there may be a misalignment issue.
My truck has been experiencing a rough idle. After getting a diagnosis I was told that my truck was running rich. I then had a full tune up done on my truck and change the fuel injectors. Now my truck is running lean. What’s wrong with my truck? Help.
First place to start would be to pull any diagnostic trouble codes. Autozone will do this for free. Then post the codes below in the comments. For now I will just guess what code you have.
Ford Code P0171 – Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 1
If the P0171 is combined with the P0174 code, it’s very likely that the problem is caused by an intake leak. When there are no intake leaks, the next step is to replace the air filter and clean the air flow meter. If the problem persists the front oxygen (O2) sensor may need to be replaced.
Ford Code P0171 Description
With the Air/Fuel Mixture Ratio Self-Learning Control, the actual mixture ratio can be brought closely to the theoretical mixture ratio based on the mixture ratio feedback signal from the heated oxygen sensors 1. The Engine Control Module (ECM) calculates the necessary compensation to correct the offset between the actual and the theoretical ratios.
In case the amount of the compensation value is extremely large (The actual mixture ratio is too lean.), the ECM judges the condition as the fuel injection system malfunction and light up the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) (2 trip detection logic).