Coolant is leaking from under passenger side exhaust manifold. I was wondering if it would be a hose or a freeze plug? It is a 1999 Ford F150 XL with a 4.2L V6.
How to Locate Coolant Leak
There are a few things to do in order to locate an external coolant leak. Fist top of the coolant level. I recommend using water since you will loose it on the ground anyway. Once the coolant is topped off you will need to put the cooling system under pressure. You will need a cooling system pressure tester for this. Take note of the max pressure on the radiator cap. Pump the pressure tester up to the max pressure you noted from the radiator cap. Look around the engine bay for the coolant spraying out. Now that you have spotted the coolant spraying out you know exactly where the leak is coming from.
Remove the cooling system pressure tester. Repair the leak. Once again top off the cooling system with water. Then connect the pressure tester and pump it up once more. It is good practice to check for additional leaks now before putting expensive fresh coolant back into the system. Once you see the pressure holding on the gauge of the tester go ahead and remove the tester. Drain the cooling system. Re-fill the cooling system with 50/50 mix. Run the engine with the radiator cap removed for a few minutes or long enough to top off the coolant level. Replace the radiator cap and test drive. It is a good idea to check the coolant level a few times over the next couple of days to ensure a proper level is maintained.
The motor is a 5.0 fuel injection. It runs like a motor that has a vapor lock. I have changed the internal fuel pump twice, the fuel filter a dozen times. The Ford dealer here told me it was the upper manifold gasket. That was changed, but did no good. The car only has 65,000 miles on it. If you have any ideas I would greatly appreciate it
I have a 1991 Ford F250, 5.8L that is 2WD and has 126,000 miles on it. Purchased this truck about 3 years ago (really good price). I did not have the time or need to get it repaired and did not want to deal with ridiculous CA SMOG regulations. When I purchased it the check engine light was on. I did some troubleshooting and replaced the fuel filter, idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. This took care of the CEL. I then tried to have it SMOG’d and it failed because it was smoking (valve cover leaks). In July I purchased valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, cap and rotor to clean things up and make it run better. It passed SMOG test in September and my son started driving it.
It ran well for about two months. One day my son was driving to work and the truck stalled (in neighborhood) and would not restart. I pushed it out of the road and went back to get it home a couple of days later. It started immediately, I drove it home (1\2 mile) and switched the fuel tanks a couple of times without issue.
I hooked it up to my tester and it produced a code 67 for a neutral position switch problem. We replaced that and it started and drove great for a couple of days. Then it happened again. Driving around the neighborhood it stalled and would not start again. It took a few days to get back to it and again once it was started it drove home fine (again, only about 1\8 mile). We again hooked up the tester to the truck and it returned a Code 11 (All Clear).
I am thinking it is a fuel issue of some kind. The truck sat for a while (three years) so I am wondering if there might some junk in the fuel tank(s) that could be clogging things up. I don’t think there is a pump problem because it does run after it sits for a couple of days. Appreciate any help you can give.
You can test it when it won’t start to see what the engine is not getting. I would put my money on a NO Spark issue. A quick spray of starting fluid in the air filter when it won’t start is a quick and easy test. If the engine runs on the starting fluid you know it is a fuel related problem. If it does not then you know it is an electrical issue.
I am guessing electrical issue because it is pretty common for what you are describing. It starts and runs fine when cold but once it warms, the engine dies. Leave it set long enough to cool down and the engine starts back up and runs. This is exactly what happens when the Ignition Control Module starts to fail. The part is fairly inexpensive and easy enough to change out yourself. The replacement instructions taken from the manual (see below) indicate you need to remove the distributor, but in most cases this does not need to be done.
Ignition Control Module
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Ignition Control Module Replacement
Remove the distributor cap from the distributor, and set it aside (spark plug wires still connected).
Disconnect the harness connector.
Remove the distributor.
Remove the TFI module retaining screws. WARNING
Step 5 must be followed EXACTLY; failure to do so will result in damage to the distributor module connector pins.
To disengage the TFI module’s terminals from the distributor base connector, pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up. Carefully pull the module toward the flange and away from the distributor.
Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ–19A331–A or its equivalent).
Place the TFI module on the distributor base mounting flange. Position the module assembly toward the distributor bowl and carefully engage the distributor connector pins. Install and torque the two TFI module retaining screws to 9–16 inch lbs.
Install the distributor assembly.
Install the distributor cap and check the engine timing.
Idle is up and down. Car stalling when not giving it gas and stalls when at stop signs/lights.
Stalling with Idle Up and Down
This is an indication of an IAC(Idle Air Control) valve sticking or a vacuum leak. If there is a vacuum leak the IAC will still try to hunt for the correct idle speed but has difficulty. The difficulty if from the vacuum leak. The most common place for a vacuum leak on your engine would be the PCV valve hose. Listen for a slight whistle noise.
It wont start and sounds like its not getting any fuel! I think its the fuel pump but I was wondering if I should check the fuel relay first?
A quick test would be to spray some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it will try to run on that. If it does, then you know you are not getting fuel and the engine is getting spark. At this point you can concentrate on the fuel system.
You may want to check the fuel relay and the inertia switch(fuel cut off). The inertia switch is located under the passenger side floor mat toward the dash. Check the relay also applying battery positive and negative directly to the pump to check it. If it is coming on you may need to check the fuel pressure next.
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with an intermittent crank no start in varying outside temps. Alternator volts @14.2. Battery live. Fuel pump hums (primes) when turned over. When “crank no start occurs”, jump start with or without charge starts vehicle. Where do I start?
Intermittent Crank No Start
Replace the battery. Most likely the battery has an internal short. The battery has enough juice to crank a little but not enough to do the job proper. This is why it doesn’t take much to jump start it.
Removal and Installation
Disconnect the battery cables. For additional information, refer to Battery Disconnect in this section.
Remove the battery heat shield.
Remove the hold-down bolt and the bracket.
Take out the battery.
WARNING: When lifting a battery, excessive pressure on the end walls could cause acid to spew through the vent caps, resulting in personal injury. Lift with a battery carrier or with your hands on opposite corners.
Noises can be difficult to diagnose since you generally need to be moving to reproduce them. However it is not impossible. Some testing and checking will be needed to narrow down the reason. It maybe a strut/shock mount, worn sway bar links or something loose in the steering. There are many possibilities that will require confirmation. Here is an excellent article on how to narrow down the noise.
Do you have a parts diagram and instruction manual for replacing my rear brake drum, or wheel bearings?
Rear Brake Drum Inspection
Check that there are no cracks or chips in the braking surface. Excessive bluing indicates overheating and a replacement drum is needed. The drum can be machined to remove minor damage and to establish a rounded braking surface on a warped drum. Never exceed the maximum oversize of the drum when machining the braking surface. The maximum inside diameter is stamped on the rim of the drum.
Rear Brake Drum Replacement
Bronco, F-150, and F-250 Light Duty
1.Raise the vehicle so that the wheel to be worked on is clear of the floor and install jackstands under the vehicle.
2.Remove the wheel. Remove the three retaining nuts and remove the brake drum. It may be necessary to back off the brake shoe adjustment in order to remove the brake drum. This is because the drum might be grooved or worn from being in service for an extended period of time.
3.Before installing a new brake drum, be sure to remove any protective coating with carburetor degreaser.
4.Install the brake drum in the reverse order of removal and adjust the brakes.
1.Raise the vehicle and install jackstands.
2.Remove the wheel. Loosen the rear brake shoe adjustment.
3.Remove the rear axle retaining bolts and lockwashers, axle shaft, and gasket.
4.Take Off the wheel bearing locknut, lockwasher, and adjusting nut.
5.Remove the hub and drum assembly from the axle.
6.Remove the brake drum-to-hub retaining screws, bolts or bolts and nut. Remove the brake drum from the hub.
7.Place the drum on the hub and attach it to the hub with the attaching nuts and bolts.
8.Place the hub and drum assembly on the axle and start the adjusting nut.
9.Adjust the wheel bearing nut and install the wheel bearing lockwasher and locknut.
10.Install the axle shaft with a new gasket and install the axle retaining bolts and lockwashers.
11.Install the wheel and adjust the brake shoes. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.