Oct 312016
 

1993 Ford Explorer SportMy engine will not idle when cold. It will start and idle rather well if head bolt heater is used to warm engine first. It seems to run real rich. Also loses power on hills. It runs rough at certain speeds on highway.


 

RESPONSE

Sounds like the ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor may be giving you an issue. First I would pull any existing engine codes. Post any of the codes found below in the comments. This will help narrow down any issue related to the engine. The good news is, this can be done without a scan tool. Do to this I have added a link to explain how to go about doing just that.

Engine Will Not Idle

Idle Speed Adjustment

The engine utilizes sophisticated multi-port fuel injection systems in which an engine control computer utilizes information from various sensors to control idle speed and air fuel mixtures. No periodic adjustments are either necessary or possible on these systems.

Idle Air Control

The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve controls the engine idle speed and dashpot functions. The valve is located on the side of the throttle body.  This valve allows air, determined by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and controlled by a duty cycle signal, to bypass the throttle plate in order to maintain the proper idle speed. A vacuum leak will disrupt the ability to do its job cause it will be fighting itself.

Oct 312016
 

1993 Ford Explorer SportWe had the fuel pump replaced and now something keeps draining battery.


RESPONSE

First step would be to make sure nothing is left on. This includes the glove box being closed, etc. Best way to check is to wait till it is dark out and look for a light on. Fords are prone for door latch assembly failure that cause the dome light(door open) to stay on. Hard to notice during the day but it will drain a battery fast. None f this would be related to the fuel pump being replaced. Also check the under-hood light being stuck on.

Oct 312016
 

1998 Ford TaurusFreeze plug leaking between firewall and engine. I live in South Texas where this plug serves no purpose. Considering coating it with a high-hear, waterproof gasket sealer or something similar. Is this a bad idea. If you think it would work what would you recommend I use?


RESPONSE

Sealing instead of replacing the plug is fine. If it is a tiny leak why not seal it from the inside out. It is easier to do and will save you time. I recommend Pelletized Bar’s Stop Leak. It isn’t just for radiator leaks. It is designed to seal other coolant leaks as well.

Freeze Plug Leak Fix

With the engine cool, add the contents to the radiator and run the engine. Its that easy. Well worth the try and its under $5. The stop leak even has lubrication for the cooling system components that will prolong there life.


Replace Freeze Plug(Engine Block Plugs)

To remove a large core plug, drill a 12.70 mm (1/2-inch) hole in the center of the plug and remove with Impact Slide Hammer. Clean and inspect the plug bore.

Inspect the plug bore before installation for any damage that would interfere with the proper sealing of the plug. If the bore is damaged, true-up the surface by boring for the next specified oversize plug.

Oversize plugs are identified by the “OS” stamped in the flat located on the cup side of the plug.

Coat the plug and/or bore lightly with an oil resistant (oil galley) Stud and Bearing Mount E0AZ-19554-BA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G349-A1 or Threadlock 262 E2FZ-19554-B or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A6. Install the plug following the procedure for cup-type or expansion-type as listed below:

Cup-Type

Cup-type core plugs are installed with the flanged edge outward. The maximum diameter is located at the outer edge of the flange. The flange on cup-type plugs flares outward with the largest diameter at the outer (sealing) edge.

When installed, the flanged (trailing) edge must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

Expansion-Type

Expansion-type core plugs are installed with the flanged edge inward. The maximum diameter of this plug is located at the base of the flange with the flange flaring inward.

When installed, the trailing (maximum) diameter must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

When installed, the flanged (trailing) edge must be below the chamfered edge of the bore to effectively seal the plugged bore.

Oct 262016
 

2005 Ford FreestarWhere is the knock sensor located?


RESPONSE

The knock sensor is installed in the lower forward area of the engine block on an OHC V6 engine. The knock sensor is a tuned accelerometer on the engine which converts engine vibration to an electrical signal. The PCM uses this signal to determine the presence of engine knock and to retard spark timing.

Knock Sensor Location

knock sensor location 2004 Ford Freestar

Oct 222016
 

2003 Ford F-150My Ford F-150 has the electronic ignition and would like to know what or where to tie in a tachometer. I have tried several with no luck. I would appreciate any info you can provide.


RESPONSE

Tachometer Installation

  • White wire – connect any +12V that comes on when the lights are turned on
  • Red wire – connect to +12V fuse (only when key is on, radio, lighter)
  • Black wire – ground it to the firewall.
  • Green (tach) wire – goes to PCM

The PCM (Power Control Module) is located on the passenger side firewall, behind the battery. To gain access to the connector, remove the battery. And loosen the fastener that has the connector connected to the PCM. On the connector it has a cover covering the wires connected to the connector, it’s black. Remove the cover.

Once you remove the cover you can see the numbers on each side of the connector. The one you need to locate is pin hole #48, if you already have a wire coming out of #48 just splice to it. BE SURE YOU DOUBLE-CHECK THE PIN #. Because the wrong splice can cause havoc on your wiring system and cause things to fail for unknown reasons. Once you’ve located the right pin hole you need to drill through, be careful as possible. Use a #30 dill bit. Take a paper clip, or safely pin and push the FOD (Foreign Object Debree) out of the pin hole, make sure you get it all because it will be a pain when you put the wire through. Crimp the female connector on the tachometer wire. On the other end open it a little so that the pin doesn’t push the connector and the wire back out. Install the cover back on the connector and fasten the fastener back down on the PCM connector and reinstall the battery (ground first).

D-Sub Connectors – Female

This Process should be similar for all 1997-2003 F-150s, and possibly other years also.

Source: Ford150.net

Oct 222016
 

2003 Ford Windstarits making a fast clicking noise like a toy machine gun noise…its not knocking in motor noise I know those noises…its almost like the timing noises in older cars…it only does it when I accelerate and only in gear…it doesn’t do it in idle…the van jerks at stops…repetitive jerks unless I barely hold down the gas…the clicking noise has gotten worse as I’ve tried to floor it to see if the noise would click itself out…its only if I accelerate and sometimes it seems that its only when i over accelerate past the initial gear speed


RESPONSE

The Ford Freestar was first introduced in 2004. Before that was the Ford Windstar produced from 1994-2003. But was available in Canada in 2002 as a Ford Freestar. So I am going to assume this is a Canadian Version. Not certain of the engine that is in yours.

I would like to determine if this noise in internal or external in the engine. Removing the drive belt and testing should be helpful. If the noise goes away with the drive belt removed, the problem is external and you can then look at the bearings in the pulleys and or accessories driven by the belt. If the noise is still there, then you know the noise is internal. The most likely reason for and internal noise as you described it would be timing chain related.

Oct 162016
 

1995 Ford TaurusWhat causes a temperature gauge to not work and then once in awhile work for a short period of time?


RESPONSE

  • Failing temperature sending unit
  • Bad connections or wiring problem
  • Faulty gauge in dash

Coolant Temperature Indication System, Engine

The engine coolant temperature indication system is a magnetic-type indication system consisting of:
•the water temperature indicator sender unit located in the engine block or cylinder head
•an engine coolant temperature gauge in the instrument cluster
The water temperature indicator sender unit operates as follows:
•changes resistance according to engine coolant temperature, which varies the current flow through the engine coolant temperature gauge
•the pointer position varies proportionally to the current flow.
•resistance is high when the engine coolant temperature is low, and low when the engine coolant temperature is high
•the pointer of the magnetic engine coolant temperature gauge remains in position when ignition switch is turned to the OFF position
•pointer will move to the correct indication whenever the ignition switch is turned back to RUN position
•pointer may indicate at the top of the normal band with the engine coolant temperature within specification, under certain driving conditions such as heavy traffic or stop-and-go driving in hot weather

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge

The engine coolant temperature gauge is identified by a thermometer symbol:
•H means high temperature
•C means low temperature
•the solid band between C and H is the normal temperature range

Water Temperature Indicator Sender Unit
The water temperature indicator sender unit:
•is mounted into the thermostat housing bypass tube. The signal sent to the engine coolant temperature gauge varies with the resistance of water temperature indicator sender unit, which depends on the engine coolant temperature.

Oct 162016
 

2006 Ford 500What causes rotors to warp? Warped rotors?


RESPONSE

HEAT.

Warped Rotors Possible Causes

Brake rotors are sensitive to heat. Under normal driving conditions they will remain strong enough to resist becoming warped rotors. However there are a few things that will cause excessive heat. If the drivers tends to drive with two feet or rest there foot on the brake while driving. This should be avoided if at all possible. If the driver tends to wait until they are close to where they want to stop and then use excessive force to stop. Also, what I like to call a panic stop. Maybe you are on the highway and come up on stopped traffic it is hard to void jamming on the brake pedal to avoid an accident. Also when the brake pads become worn and start to drag on the rotor or a sticking brake caliper.

 

Oct 152016
 

2003 Ford WindstarMy van is currently having issues. First it has been dying during idle not immediately but soon after it has to idle for a minute. The check engine light is on and the codes come out to lean combustion (autozone). When I push on the gas to get up to speed after idle the CEL starts to blink and the van doesn’t seem to be getting enough gas. Sometimes I smell exhaust and sometimes a puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust on starting it. If I’m stopped at a red light it kinda chugs but if I put it in neutral it seems to run a little better. The rpms drop during idle also. If you have a good Idea of what’s going on, it would be much appreciated


RESPONSE

White smoke from the exhaust is an indication of a blown head gasket. This would also cause a rough idle and could cause the engine to want to die. Check coolant level and cylinder compression.

System Too Lean Possible causes

– Intake air leaks
– Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
– Ignition misfiring
– Faulty fuel injectors
– Exhaust gas leaks
– Incorrect fuel pressure
– Lack of fuel
– Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
– Incorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection
Oct 152016
 

2001 Ford TaurusMy water pump was replaced along with new belt in march 2016. It has a new thermostat and the radiator was flushed out. When driven for some distance the water will boil out of the overflow tank but the temp gauge is in the normal range. A new cap was put on 3 months ago and the fans are working. Please help. We make a lot of out of town doctor appointments. I am stumped. Could the transmission be overheating?


RESPONSE

The fact that you mentioned “water” makes me wonder if water was used in place of coolant. Water has a lower boiling pint than coolant. If the coolant is less than 50/50 water and coolant concentrate, it will boil. If this is the case, replace the cooling systems “water” with Coolant.

If this is not the case, there may be a sticking thermostat (even new ones can do this) or the cooling system needs to be bled. But generally an overheating indication of the temperature gauge will occur with this.