Where is the knock sensor located?
RESPONSE
The knock sensor is installed in the lower forward area of the engine block on an OHC V6 engine. The knock sensor is a tuned accelerometer on the engine which converts engine vibration to an electrical signal. The PCM uses this signal to determine the presence of engine knock and to retard spark timing.
My Ford F-150 has the electronic ignition and would like to know what or where to tie in a tachometer. I have tried several with no luck. I would appreciate any info you can provide.
RESPONSE
The PCM (Power Control Module) is located on the passenger side firewall, behind the battery. To gain access to the connector, remove the battery. And loosen the fastener that has the connector connected to the PCM. On the connector it has a cover covering the wires connected to the connector, it’s black. Remove the cover.
Once you remove the cover you can see the numbers on each side of the connector. The one you need to locate is pin hole #48, if you already have a wire coming out of #48 just splice to it. BE SURE YOU DOUBLE-CHECK THE PIN #. Because the wrong splice can cause havoc on your wiring system and cause things to fail for unknown reasons. Once you’ve located the right pin hole you need to drill through, be careful as possible. Use a #30 dill bit. Take a paper clip, or safely pin and push the FOD (Foreign Object Debree) out of the pin hole, make sure you get it all because it will be a pain when you put the wire through. Crimp the female connector on the tachometer wire. On the other end open it a little so that the pin doesn’t push the connector and the wire back out. Install the cover back on the connector and fasten the fastener back down on the PCM connector and reinstall the battery (ground first).
This Process should be similar for all 1997-2003 F-150s, and possibly other years also.
Source: Ford150.net
its making a fast clicking noise like a toy machine gun noise…its not knocking in motor noise I know those noises…its almost like the timing noises in older cars…it only does it when I accelerate and only in gear…it doesn’t do it in idle…the van jerks at stops…repetitive jerks unless I barely hold down the gas…the clicking noise has gotten worse as I’ve tried to floor it to see if the noise would click itself out…its only if I accelerate and sometimes it seems that its only when i over accelerate past the initial gear speed
RESPONSE
The Ford Freestar was first introduced in 2004. Before that was the Ford Windstar produced from 1994-2003. But was available in Canada in 2002 as a Ford Freestar. So I am going to assume this is a Canadian Version. Not certain of the engine that is in yours.
I would like to determine if this noise in internal or external in the engine. Removing the drive belt and testing should be helpful. If the noise goes away with the drive belt removed, the problem is external and you can then look at the bearings in the pulleys and or accessories driven by the belt. If the noise is still there, then you know the noise is internal. The most likely reason for and internal noise as you described it would be timing chain related.
What causes a temperature gauge to not work and then once in awhile work for a short period of time?
RESPONSE
The engine coolant temperature indication system is a magnetic-type indication system consisting of:
•the water temperature indicator sender unit located in the engine block or cylinder head
•an engine coolant temperature gauge in the instrument cluster
The water temperature indicator sender unit operates as follows:
•changes resistance according to engine coolant temperature, which varies the current flow through the engine coolant temperature gauge
•the pointer position varies proportionally to the current flow.
•resistance is high when the engine coolant temperature is low, and low when the engine coolant temperature is high
•the pointer of the magnetic engine coolant temperature gauge remains in position when ignition switch is turned to the OFF position
•pointer will move to the correct indication whenever the ignition switch is turned back to RUN position
•pointer may indicate at the top of the normal band with the engine coolant temperature within specification, under certain driving conditions such as heavy traffic or stop-and-go driving in hot weather
The engine coolant temperature gauge is identified by a thermometer symbol:
•H means high temperature
•C means low temperature
•the solid band between C and H is the normal temperature range
Water Temperature Indicator Sender Unit
The water temperature indicator sender unit:
•is mounted into the thermostat housing bypass tube. The signal sent to the engine coolant temperature gauge varies with the resistance of water temperature indicator sender unit, which depends on the engine coolant temperature.
What causes rotors to warp? Warped rotors?
RESPONSE
HEAT.
Brake rotors are sensitive to heat. Under normal driving conditions they will remain strong enough to resist becoming warped rotors. However there are a few things that will cause excessive heat. If the drivers tends to drive with two feet or rest there foot on the brake while driving. This should be avoided if at all possible. If the driver tends to wait until they are close to where they want to stop and then use excessive force to stop. Also, what I like to call a panic stop. Maybe you are on the highway and come up on stopped traffic it is hard to void jamming on the brake pedal to avoid an accident. Also when the brake pads become worn and start to drag on the rotor or a sticking brake caliper.
My van is currently having issues. First it has been dying during idle not immediately but soon after it has to idle for a minute. The check engine light is on and the codes come out to lean combustion (autozone). When I push on the gas to get up to speed after idle the CEL starts to blink and the van doesn’t seem to be getting enough gas. Sometimes I smell exhaust and sometimes a puff of white smoke come out of the exhaust on starting it. If I’m stopped at a red light it kinda chugs but if I put it in neutral it seems to run a little better. The rpms drop during idle also. If you have a good Idea of what’s going on, it would be much appreciated
RESPONSE
White smoke from the exhaust is an indication of a blown head gasket. This would also cause a rough idle and could cause the engine to want to die. Check coolant level and cylinder compression.
My water pump was replaced along with new belt in march 2016. It has a new thermostat and the radiator was flushed out. When driven for some distance the water will boil out of the overflow tank but the temp gauge is in the normal range. A new cap was put on 3 months ago and the fans are working. Please help. We make a lot of out of town doctor appointments. I am stumped. Could the transmission be overheating?
RESPONSE
The fact that you mentioned “water” makes me wonder if water was used in place of coolant. Water has a lower boiling pint than coolant. If the coolant is less than 50/50 water and coolant concentrate, it will boil. If this is the case, replace the cooling systems “water” with Coolant.
If this is not the case, there may be a sticking thermostat (even new ones can do this) or the cooling system needs to be bled. But generally an overheating indication of the temperature gauge will occur with this.
all at the same time my speedometer stopped working my wipers stopped oil pressure gauge reads 0 it is an automatic but will not shift gears. Changed the speed sensor no help had a mechanic check it out his computer says speed sensor but that is brand new the mechanic was stumped and so am I. I does blow a 7.5 amp fuse
RESPONSE
There are several 7.5 amp fuses. If you could tell me number of the fuse I could pull up the appropriate wiring diagram for that circuit. You will need to locate the short in that circuit and repair it. Once the repair is made the fuse will no longer blow and the circuit will function as it should.
shift cable replacement
RESPONSE
I have always wanted a set of 3/8″ red line tires. I purchased Coker manufactured Red Line American Classic tires, same size and when replaced had bad vibration after standard balancing, Coker tire MFG very helpful and set me up with local dealer for Forced Balancing. this is best balancing possible and checks rims as well. One tire out of spec and had to be replaced but still vibration that car never had before changing the tires. Vibration not in seat but felt in steering as if oval wheel. A call Back to Coker tire and they were helpful by sending me 4 more tires that were pre force balanced at the factory between 11-14 lbs road force. Up to 35 # is acceptable range so these readings were great. Had them re installed and re force balanced with excellent readings. Car still has a vibration like and oval wheel but better at high speeds. No bent rims as force balance machine checks that so what can be the problem? Car brakes fine no shutter or vibration and all wheels are cool so that stumps me. Please help as this is a frustrating mystery and who do I go to next?
RESPONSE
If the vibration is felt in the steering wheel, rotating the fronts to the back would be a quick check. If the vibration does not follow the wheels to the back then you know it isn’t in the wheels. So you are left with the hub bearings, rotors and steering components. Most common would be the rotors, even if the typical brake pedal pulsation is not felt.