May I please get a Headlight wiring diagram for 2002 Honda Civic?
May I please get a Headlight wiring diagram for 2002 Honda Civic?
What would make my 1993 Honda Accord spark plug smell like diesel fuel?
Contaminated fuel. This is more common than you would expect. The same delivery trucks are sometimes used to transport different grades of fuel. Under normal operating procedures the tanks are flushed after each haul. This helps prevent contamination of diesel and regular grade fuels. When this step gets over looked there can be upwards of a 100 gallons being mixed in the next load.
When your fuel is contaminated the engine may struggle and have performance issues. The engine may “PING” on heavy acceleration. Though in the short term no damage should occur but if not corrected severe internal engine damage will. Feel free to drive that tank out and fill up at a different fueling station the go around. For large fuel tanks an Octane boost may be used to prevent engine ping.
Initial start up car idles 1500 to 1700 open loop all good for about a minute or less. Then idle slowly drops down to 500ish, sometimes lower for a few seconds then back up to 1500. (Usually does that idle drop just once sometimes twice). Once its been idling for ten minutes or so(temp half way up on gauge) it will not drop lower unless I turn the ignition off and restart the car. Idle goes normal 870ish. Depends on how its feeling that particular moment. Also my LTFT is averaging -10 sometimes higher or a little lower. Seen the STFT get as high as -27 while live scanning. Could the car possibly not be transferring over to closed loop?
The car intermittently stalls. Sometimes during warm up, sometimes while doing 60 mph down the road and sometimes when I arrive to my location as soon as I stop and start doing the routine of parking. I’ve replaced IAC, TPS, TB gasket, IM gasket and plugs/wires. Also bled air from coolant. I keep throwing a P0420 cause manifold/converter has small crack in it right down the middle into the O2 sensor hole. Any response back with new suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The crack in the converter may be causing an issue if it is the upstream O2 Sensor(A/F Sensor). The idle is adjustable, I will add the procedure below.
The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC)Valve.
The valve changes the amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold in response to electric current controlled by the ECM/PCM. When the IAC Valve is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed.
1. After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150 – 300 rpm.
2. When the coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is thus controlled in relation to the engine coolant temperature.
1. When the idle speed is out of specification and the scan tool does not indicate Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 or P1508, check the following items:
2. When the above items are normal, substitute a known-good IAC valve and readjust the idle speed
If the idle speed still cannot be adjusted to specification (and the scan tool does not indicate DTC P0505 or P1508) after IAC valve replacement, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.
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My car was sitting unused in a garage for about two years. I had to replace the battery, and for some reason also the alternator was bad after that time (had no issues when it was parked).
I drove it to my friend’s repair shop to get the alternator replaced, which he did. He advised me to get new gas in it and apply injector cleaner, which I did. I also applied Heet. On the way to the gas station, there was thick black exhaust, which I attribute to bad gas, because I never saw it again. I drove it back to his shop where we discussed the exhaust; he had me press on the accelerator while he was looking at something under the hood.
That is when he noticed that the heat gauge was off the charts. He had me shut it down immediately. It turned out that no coolant had been in the car the whole time, apparently it had evaporated while sitting. He had never checked it, and I would not have known to do so.
Coolant was poured into the radiator, resulting in jets of steam. This went on for a while until it was cool enough to be filled with coolant. When it was restarted, there was a terrible problem with the idle. He detected misfires on two cylinders and thought that there was serious engine damage.
The car seemed to be a loss. But later that day, he started it again, and it was completely fine. He drove it to my house. However, there is not a happy ending yet. I have a terrible issue after I have driven it a while, switch it off, and again restart it within a short time. I get issues with a very rough idle which will either 1) ‘catch’ and then the car will be fine to drive, or 2) idle rougher and rougher, until it bucks (the entire car will jolt forward and back), and eventually stall. Once I saw white smoke coming from the hood. Again, I thought that there was permanent engine damage, but upon starting the car again a couple of days later, again it was fine.
So this is a very strange problem, which affects the start mostly when the car has been recently used and driven for a period of time (a warm start). It will idle rough, ‘catch’ and then idle and drive fine, or it will degenerate into a really bad state, as I have described.
Please help. My mechanic friend is at a loss. I do not know enough about car mechanics to hazard a guess.
My Advice with this one would be to pull the spark plugs and perform a compression test on the engine. This should be performed after the engine has been warmed to operating temperature. Wait as you would before it would have an issue. This will rule out a blown head gasket and give you a chance to look at the plugs. See if any of the plugs look damp or in need of replacement.
My thinking is the head gasket is blown. It is at the beginning stages and small. This would explain why only after the engine is warmed and shut off that a small amount of coolant seeps into the effected cylinders. This is just enough to cause a misfire until it has a chance to shove it out the exhaust. Then after a quick restart, the engine is able to burn any that may seep in.
My A/C blower motor stopped working. I removed it and checked voltage at the plug, 12.4vdc. When I plug it back in, it starts momentarily, but stops. It’s a nonreturnable part based on its electrical nature, so I want to be sure this is the problem.
Use a different source of power when testing the blower motor. I use a Power Probe when doing this in the shop. It allows you to apply power at a push if a button. If you do not have one you can use jumper wires from the battery also. If you find your blower motor is functioning just fine with a separate power source, check your blower motor resistor next.
|1||W701696||Vacuum reservoir screw|
|3||—||Blower motor electrical connector (part of 14401)|
|4||W701696||Blower motor screw (3 required)|
Removal and Installation
So I just got my first car, a 2008 Honda Accord Ex-l with 55k miles on it from an elderly couple. When I first bought it everything was fine. As I started to drive more and more I started having problems with the transmission.
First off, Its pretty hard to accelerate and when i do i feel the engine working hard to get up to around 2,500/3k rpm, then it gets smoother when it drops down to about 1,500rpm (is this normal?).
Another thing (my main concern) is that once I’m going anywhere from 30-60 mph and i take my foot off the gas and just let the car glide, as the rpm needle goes down and hits just below the 1k mark the needle jump up to around 1.5k and the car jerks a little forward. (when I’m going around 60-80, it might do this twice). What does this mean? Is that normal?
The last thing might be the same problem but I’m just gonna ask anyways.. Also when I’m breaking from most speeds, once the needle goes below the 1k mark the needle also jumps up (usually between the 500 and the 1k rpm mark).
Whats going on lol?
Ive already changed my break pads and rotors, changed my engine oil (not transmission), and got a fuel injector cleaner. (Not because of this problem, but they needed to be changed anyway.)
Also, whenever i turn my car on I always hear fluid dripping/gurgulling right behind the dashboard. What is causing that?
Thank you very much! Appreciate your service!
VSS? Check engine light?
Car jerking forward? Needle bouncing may all be related to what ever is going on. The needle bouncing isn’t much of a concern as long as the engine isn’t dying. The needle is moving around because the IAC (Idle Air Control) is doing its job.
The first place to start would be to have the check engine light codes scanned. Any present codes will assist in directing us toward the problem. This saves time and money. Also keeps us from trying to guess. Most any local auto parts stores will scan the codes for free. Post the codes below in the comments.
My car was wrecked in front and driverside air bag in the steering wheel deployed. Now Honda is recalling air bags. Do you think they will still fix it? And cuz otherwise I am screwed they aint selling right now.
I do not have the ability to speak on behalf of Honda. Your best course of action would be to contact the Service department at your local dealership. You may ask for the best course of action for proceeding forward. Since the air bag in question actually did what it was designed to do, I do not see where any replacement would be warranted but that is just my opinion. Only Honda can make the final decision on the matter.
The latest air bag recall issued February 1, 2017 is 15-040 Version 5. All pilots from 2003 – 2008 are effected. This covers the inflator part.
The problem is with the inflator. In certain vehicles, the driver’s front airbag inflator could produce excessive internal pressure during airbag deployment. If the affected airbag deploys, the increased internal pressure may cause the inflator casing to rupture. Metal fragments could pass through the airbag cushion material, possibly causing injury or fatality to vehicle occupants.
What is the sensor that is in the middle top of the timing cover it broke off replacing timing chain now I need to get it out and replace it.
VTC oil control solenoid valve(A) location diagram.
Finally, note the amount of valve opening by observing the position of the piston shoulder (A) through the valve retard drain port. If you see the shoulder of the piston, the valve is open and must be replaced.
First of all, the battery light on. Just replaced alternator and battery. Checked with voltmeter at battery, fuse box and directly at alternator says 11.2 even with blower on high. Is this enough? I’m in Michigan and at 1 degree right now is that normal? Or is the alternator still bad?
The battery light being on indicates the battery is not being charged. Therefore this can be from a bad or faulty alternator. It can also be from a bad or faulty battery. And may also be from a bad connection between the two. You should see more than 12.5 volts.
First of all, I would start by checking the fuses in the circuit. The most likely fuse to be blown would be the Main Mult-Fuse #22 (120 AMP). Seems like this is the first to blow when the battery is jumped or cables touch when changing the battery. There are two other fuses, fuse#18 and #21. Consequently I would almost put money on FUSE #22 which is located in the UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX. Other than that, you would want to make certain all cables are connected correctly and free of corrosion.
How do you remove the lower part of the timing belt cover the water pump is behind? It is a 1994 Honda Passport with a 24v V6.
3.2L (VIN V) Engine
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Drain the engine coolant.
3.Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4.Remove the upper fan shroud and remove the cooling fan.
5.Remove the drive belts.
6.Remove the fan pulley assembly.
7.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley.
8.Remove the two oil cooler hose bracket bolts on the timing cover. Remove the oil cooler hose.
9.Remove the timing belt cover.
10.Install the timing belt cover and tighten bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
11.Install the oil cooler hose and tighten brackets to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
12.Install the crankshaft pulley. Use tool No. J-8614-01, or an equivalent pulley holder and tighten the bolts to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm).
13.Install the fan pulley assembly and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
14.Install the drive belts.
15.Install cooling fan assembly.
16.Install upper fan shroud to the radiator.
17.Install air cleaner assembly.
18.Refill the engine with fresh coolant. Bleed the cooling system.
19.Connect the negative battery cable.