Jun 212017
 

2011 Honda Fit / JazzStrange chirp noise

I drive a 2011 Honda Jazz 1.5 EX-S (Pre-facelift), the car has about 112500km on the clock at the moment.

Now these are my issues. There is a strange chirp noise if I put a little too much gas while releasing the clutch. Doesn’t happen all the time. After the vehicle has warmed up a bit, there is a squeak while releasing the clutch. And while driving slow in low gears. But this squeak is not existent while in neutral. This noise is also heard if I lift the car and turn the front wheels while in gear, but not heard in neutral.

The next issue, but I am unsure whether it is related, is when I accelerate I hear what I would say is a metallic rattling, sounds like a loose bearing noise, but is most apparent if I am say, in the wrong gear trying to accelerate, or while cruising in a higher gear. (I have been informed my transmission mount is a “little soft”, could this be the rattle?) and while slowing down with the clutch engaged with no gas.

If I rev the car in neutral or with the clutch disengaged, none of the above noises are apparent. There is however a slight moan at a certain rpm when the revs drop for I would say half a second – probably unrelated.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!


Clutch Release Bearing

First issue: Pressure Plate Release Bearing would be my first guess.

Second issue: May be related but might be a different part rattling around near the clutch release fork. If the release fork set spring has broken it might be the cause of all your problems.

Apply high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the release fork (A), the release fork bolt (B), the release bearing (C), and the release bearing guide (D) in the shaded areas, then set the release fork set spring (E).

clutch release bearing 2011 Honda Fit

Jun 172017
 

1998 Honda AccordGood morning. I have a 1998 Honda Accord. My engine couldn’t start first. Then later we suspected some fuses which were changed, then it starts but couldn’t stop working when remove the key. I called in a technician to check. We replace the alternator, then the engine can now start on and off. But the over heating signal won’t go if I start it without moving and again the D4 on gear signal would be blinking. Also the wipers won’t stop. It continues working even if off. Thanks for your response.


If the overheating signal is illuminated the first thing to check would be the coolant level in the radiator and overflow tank.

D4 light starts blinking

When the D4 light starts blinking, an error has occurred and been detected by the PCM.

D4 light blinking Honda Accord

Get the Diagnostic Trouble Code and we will see what can be done.

Wipers won’t Stop

Most likely the intermittent wiper relay is sticking. Try removing it to see if the wipers stop. You may also trace the wiring using the provided wiring diagram if needed.

Windshield Wiper wiring diagram 1998 Honda Accord
1998-honda-accord-wiper-washer-1-of-1
Jun 092017
 

2006 Honda Civic
I have a problem with my windshield wipers. After wiping, it stops on the middle of the windshield, not on ”park” position. I changed by a new motor but it didn’t resolved my problem. What else could be defect? Thank you.


After installation of the wiper motor the wiper arms need to be adjusted.

Wiper Arm Stop Position

1.When the wiper arms stop at automatic stop position, confirm the wiper arms are at the standard position.

  • Position at about 1.1 in. (29 mm) [0.9 in. (23 mm)] from the top of cowl cover (A)
  • Position at about 4.1 in. (106 mm) [4.2 in. (107 mm)] from the top of cowl cover (A)

 

May 292017
 

2006 Honda CivicGrey Sludge

I have a Honda Civic 2006 lx with1.8 lit engine and millage is 243000KM.
What could cause gray sludge to end up in my coolant overflow and on radiator cap.I think stuck on cap when pass from radiator to tank. I cleaned tank and check a every 2 month almost 1 or 2 inches collects. Thank you


It is possible that along the way someone has put some additive in the cooling system. If you are unsure you may want to flush the radiator.

You can flush the system and then test it to see if it returns or not. If the sludge is not from an additive then it is a good thing you have found it. Now you just have to flush out the system to get rid of the gray sludge. Purchase a radiator flush kit and liquid flush from you local auto parts store. I will provide links below as well for online purchase. The Flush kit should come with instructions to follow on how to install it. Just make sure the engine has had a chance to cool down before installing the kit. After you have installed the kit, put the liquid flush in and drive around with the heater on. This will insure that the flush gets into all the different water jackets and heater core. Follow the instructions and flush. Be sure to drain the radiator from the radiator drain plug. Use new coolant to refill when done.

Apr 182017
 

Honda AccordIf I drive my car for a while making frequent stops at different places. Lets just say I go to 3 different stores. I cant leave my car running when I go to crank my car after my third stop it will crank but it cuts right back off. If I wait about 10-15 minutes then try it will crank right up. What could that be?


Will crank but it cuts right back off

Sounds to me like an ignition control module is breaking down. This happens once the module starts to get hot. After you set long enough for it to cool back down it starts and functions correctly until it is once again overheated. This is from part failure only.

Mar 122017
 

2003 Honda PilotMy ignition switch cylinder went out. So I went and bought the new part.I also bought a new key fob to go with my car. If I replace the ignition switch, would I need to program the key fob with the old key or the new key?


RESPONSE

Which ever key starts the car is the one I would use.

Immobilizer System Description

The vehicle is equipped with an immobilizer system that will disable the vehicle unless the proper ignition key is used.

This system consists of a transponder located in the ignition key, an immobilizer control unit-receiver, an indicator, and the PCM.

When the key is inserted in the ignition switch and turned to the (II) position, the immobilizer control unit-receiver sends power to the transponder in the ignition key. The transponder then sends a coded signal back through the immobilizer control unit-receiver to the PCM.

Immobilizer

  • When the proper key has been used, the immobilizer indicator will come on for about 2 seconds, then go off.
  • If the wrong key has been used whose code was not received or recognized by the unit, the indicator will come on for about 2 seconds. Then it will blink until the ignition switch is turned OFF.
  • If the ignition switch is turned OFF, the indicator will blink for about 5 seconds to signal that the unit has been set correctly. Then the indicator will go off.
  • When the customer has lost his key, and cannot start the engine, contact Honda Customer Relations.
Feb 152017
 

Honda AccordI don’t have any running tail lights, some interior lights aren’t working as well as the license Plate light. Any ideas Thanks.


RESPONSE

Exterior Lights Related Fuses

16, 7, 21, 13, 4 And tail light relay off of fuse 4

I would look at fuse #4 and if it is OK, check or replace the tail light relay.

Tail light wiring diagram 2007 Honda Accord

2007-honda-accord-exterior-lights-exterior-lamps-circuit-sedan-w-o-hybrid-2-of-2
Feb 072017
 

IMA Light 2008 Honda Civic HybridMy 2008 Honda Hybrid has check engine light and ima light still lighting while driving. The engine seems to have a problem when driving. It does not run properly like cutting and start again. After scanning they told me to change coil number 1 but when changed the problem still occurs. Advice?


RESPONSE

IMA Light On along with Check Engine Light

When the IMA light comes on, this is a sign of a problem in the Hybrid system. When the Check Engine light is also lit, the most common problem is the Hybrid Battery. You can actually have this confirmed by having the “p-codes” (diagnostic trouble codes) read from the on-board computer. Most local “big chain” parts stores, like AutoZone, will do this for Free (except in California). These p-codes will point to the faulty part/sensor. So, if it is a problem with the Hybrid Battery, this will confirm. If there is another problem somewhere, the p-codes will serve as the starting point for the diagnosis, and you can more accurately determine the root of the problem.

If it does confirm there is a problem in the Hybrid Battery, Honda is currently having a “Battery Exchange Program”. Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty.

Feb 062017
 

2016 Honda CivicI did a hard turn at around 30ish mph and my back wheels slid a little bit. (I have a fwd car) After the wheels screeched, as the car started to go forwards I heard a sound somewhat like “crrrrrrnn” What was that?


RESPONSE

Back Wheels Slid and Made Noise

More than likely the noise was from the traction control unit. When the wheel slip the speed sensors send a signal to the abs unit to apply some brake pressure using the abs motor. This is the most likely scenario for such a noise. I do not think it is anything to worry about. It was just the vehicle doing what it was designed to do in that particular situation. If it starts to happen when you are not Hot Roding, then worry.

Jan 312017
 

2015 Honda AccordWithin the past couple of days, I have noticed a clicking coming from my car. I would notice this while driving, but it would not happen at any specific time or activity. Fast or slow, turning or straight, accelerating or decelerating, it didn’t matter. Sometimes it would happen semi-frequently, and other times, I could drive 10 minutes before hearing anything. It has been driving me bonkers as I cannot pinpoint the times when it happens. Tonight, I decided to try rocking the car to see if anything occurred. Sure enough, I heard the noise coming from my front driver’s wheel area:
Any ideas? Thank you kindly!


RESPONSE

Clicking Noise


First of all, thank you for providing a video so that we at least able to hear the noise. Secondly, there are several possibilities for a clicking noise.  Loose mounting bolts, worn suspension bushing, worn strut mount, worn stabilizer bar bushing, faulty or worn front hub bearing, faulty or worn front CV joint. This would be difficult to tell without a thorough inspection.

Having the vehicle on a lift with someone on top with it rocking the car and someone underneath listening would be optimal.

Consider the manufacturers warranty. If the vehicle is still under warranty then what ever is causing the noise should be covered.