May 292017
 

2006 Honda CivicGrey Sludge

I have a Honda Civic 2006 lx with1.8 lit engine and millage is 243000KM.
What could cause gray sludge to end up in my coolant overflow and on radiator cap.I think stuck on cap when pass from radiator to tank. I cleaned tank and check a every 2 month almost 1 or 2 inches collects. Thank you


It is possible that along the way someone has put some additive in the cooling system. If you are unsure you may want to flush the radiator.

You can flush the system and then test it to see if it returns or not. If the sludge is not from an additive then it is a good thing you have found it. Now you just have to flush out the system to get rid of the gray sludge. Purchase a radiator flush kit and liquid flush from you local auto parts store. I will provide links below as well for online purchase. The Flush kit should come with instructions to follow on how to install it. Just make sure the engine has had a chance to cool down before installing the kit. After you have installed the kit, put the liquid flush in and drive around with the heater on. This will insure that the flush gets into all the different water jackets and heater core. Follow the instructions and flush. Be sure to drain the radiator from the radiator drain plug. Use new coolant to refill when done.

Apr 182017
 

Honda AccordIf I drive my car for a while making frequent stops at different places. Lets just say I go to 3 different stores. I cant leave my car running when I go to crank my car after my third stop it will crank but it cuts right back off. If I wait about 10-15 minutes then try it will crank right up. What could that be?


Will crank but it cuts right back off

Sounds to me like an ignition control module is breaking down. This happens once the module starts to get hot. After you set long enough for it to cool back down it starts and functions correctly until it is once again overheated. This is from part failure only.

Mar 122017
 

2003 Honda PilotMy ignition switch cylinder went out. So I went and bought the new part.I also bought a new key fob to go with my car. If I replace the ignition switch, would I need to program the key fob with the old key or the new key?


RESPONSE

Which ever key starts the car is the one I would use.

Immobilizer System Description

The vehicle is equipped with an immobilizer system that will disable the vehicle unless the proper ignition key is used.

This system consists of a transponder located in the ignition key, an immobilizer control unit-receiver, an indicator, and the PCM.

When the key is inserted in the ignition switch and turned to the (II) position, the immobilizer control unit-receiver sends power to the transponder in the ignition key. The transponder then sends a coded signal back through the immobilizer control unit-receiver to the PCM.

Immobilizer

  • When the proper key has been used, the immobilizer indicator will come on for about 2 seconds, then go off.
  • If the wrong key has been used whose code was not received or recognized by the unit, the indicator will come on for about 2 seconds. Then it will blink until the ignition switch is turned OFF.
  • If the ignition switch is turned OFF, the indicator will blink for about 5 seconds to signal that the unit has been set correctly. Then the indicator will go off.
  • When the customer has lost his key, and cannot start the engine, contact Honda Customer Relations.
Feb 152017
 

Honda AccordI don’t have any running tail lights, some interior lights aren’t working as well as the license Plate light. Any ideas Thanks.


RESPONSE

Exterior Lights Related Fuses

16, 7, 21, 13, 4 And tail light relay off of fuse 4

I would look at fuse #4 and if it is OK, check or replace the tail light relay.

Tail light wiring diagram 2007 Honda Accord

2007-honda-accord-exterior-lights-exterior-lamps-circuit-sedan-w-o-hybrid-2-of-2
Feb 072017
 

IMA Light 2008 Honda Civic HybridMy 2008 Honda Hybrid has check engine light and ima light still lighting while driving. The engine seems to have a problem when driving. It does not run properly like cutting and start again. After scanning they told me to change coil number 1 but when changed the problem still occurs. Advice?


RESPONSE

IMA Light On along with Check Engine Light

When the IMA light comes on, this is a sign of a problem in the Hybrid system. When the Check Engine light is also lit, the most common problem is the Hybrid Battery. You can actually have this confirmed by having the “p-codes” (diagnostic trouble codes) read from the on-board computer. Most local “big chain” parts stores, like AutoZone, will do this for Free (except in California). These p-codes will point to the faulty part/sensor. So, if it is a problem with the Hybrid Battery, this will confirm. If there is another problem somewhere, the p-codes will serve as the starting point for the diagnosis, and you can more accurately determine the root of the problem.

If it does confirm there is a problem in the Hybrid Battery, Honda is currently having a “Battery Exchange Program”. Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty.

Feb 062017
 

2016 Honda CivicI did a hard turn at around 30ish mph and my back wheels slid a little bit. (I have a fwd car) After the wheels screeched, as the car started to go forwards I heard a sound somewhat like “crrrrrrnn” What was that?


RESPONSE

Back Wheels Slid and Made Noise

More than likely the noise was from the traction control unit. When the wheel slip the speed sensors send a signal to the abs unit to apply some brake pressure using the abs motor. This is the most likely scenario for such a noise. I do not think it is anything to worry about. It was just the vehicle doing what it was designed to do in that particular situation. If it starts to happen when you are not Hot Roding, then worry.

Jan 312017
 

2015 Honda AccordWithin the past couple of days, I have noticed a clicking coming from my car. I would notice this while driving, but it would not happen at any specific time or activity. Fast or slow, turning or straight, accelerating or decelerating, it didn’t matter. Sometimes it would happen semi-frequently, and other times, I could drive 10 minutes before hearing anything. It has been driving me bonkers as I cannot pinpoint the times when it happens. Tonight, I decided to try rocking the car to see if anything occurred. Sure enough, I heard the noise coming from my front driver’s wheel area:
Any ideas? Thank you kindly!


RESPONSE

Clicking Noise


First of all, thank you for providing a video so that we at least able to hear the noise. Secondly, there are several possibilities for a clicking noise.  Loose mounting bolts, worn suspension bushing, worn strut mount, worn stabilizer bar bushing, faulty or worn front hub bearing, faulty or worn front CV joint. This would be difficult to tell without a thorough inspection.

Having the vehicle on a lift with someone on top with it rocking the car and someone underneath listening would be optimal.

Consider the manufacturers warranty. If the vehicle is still under warranty then what ever is causing the noise should be covered.

Jan 302017
 

2008 Honda CRV2 weeks ago I took my car in for servicing and they told me I needed a new vtec solenoid gasket, but it wasn’t an emergency. Yesterday, while driving, the dashboard lit up with the VSA, emergency, and emissions indicators, and the “D” was flashing. As I pulled into an exit the car conked out and smoke spewed out of the hood. They later said it was a blown out head gasket and a radiator leak that caused it. So, did the solenoid gasket have anything to do with it, and if so, is my service dealer at fault?


RESPONSE

Did the solenoid gasket have anything to do with it? NO

The VTEC system has nothing to do with the cooling system whatsoever. A vtec gasket leak would allow for a small oil leak, not coolant like a radiator leak.

VTEC System

The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.

 

Jan 232017
 

Honda Civicwhat fuse under the hood is to the fuel pump? Or what fuse can I pull that will make car not start?


RESPONSE

Fuse #32 (50 amp) is for the ignition switch. Removing this fuse should not allow the vehicle to start. Or remove 60 Amp main fuse and nothing will work.

Dec 312016
 

1998 Honda CRVI think my water pump may have exploded. We have been having issues with what we believe is the thermostat sensor and the head gasket leaking. Which we think are causing it to not start about 25% to 50% of the time. I check and fill the oil and antifreeze daily. Today I took a small trip which was only about 20 miles and everything was fine all day until I got home. And suddenly there was a weird sound. Then a few moments later there was an explosion and steam and fluid erupted everywhere. It did not die nor stall just simply sputtered a little until I shut it off. I’m not entirely sure what the problem is nor how to fix it.


RESPONSE

From what you described there was a small leak in the cooling system. Now there is a big leak. You will need to locate the leak and make the necessary repairs to correct it. With such a large leak it shouldn’t be to difficult to locate. Of course wait until the engine is cooled down.

Locating a Large Coolant Leak

Since you already know there is a leak just use water for locating the leak. Remove the fill cap and pour water in. Chances are before you can top it off you will see the water flowing from where the large leak is located. Most likely would be one of the hoses. Replace the hose or what ever is needed. Then test for any smaller leaks.

Locating a Small Coolant Leak

Locating a smaller coolant leak is a bit more difficult and requires a special tool. The special tool is a cooling system pressure tester. If you don’t already have one you can borrow one from a local auto parts store or purchase one. Here is a good one to have as it will work on multiple vehicles.


Top off the cooling system before installing the pressure tester. Continue to use just water to top off the system for testing. Install the tool and pump the pressure up to the same pressure as the max pressure of the radiator cap. Most are between 15 – 17 psi. Leave the system under pressure for about 30 minutes. If the pressure does not drop then the system has no more leaks. If the pressure has dropped, you will need to locate the small leak. Look for a small stream. Sometimes putting a dry piece of cardboard underneath is helpful to find the area. Repair any leaks found.

Pressure Drops With No Leak Found

You may find that the pressure keeps dropping without seeing any external leaks. If it takes 30 minutes for the pressure to drop just a bit I wouldn’t worry to much about it. However if the pressure drops fairly quick you may have an internal leak. Most internal leaks are from a blown gasket. The most common would be a blown head or intake gasket.

All Leaks Are fixed

Now that all the leaks have been found and repaired there are a few things left to do. I highly recommend replacing the thermostat since the cooling system has already been relieved of its coolant. Coolant is expensive and a thermostat is generally under $20. So take advantage and only buy the coolant once. After you have replaced the thermostat or decided to skip it, the cooling system needs to be properly filled. Drain all of the water left in the system from testing.

Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant. That is 50% water and 50% concentrated coolant. You may also purchase premix if you do not feel like mixing it yourself. Top off the system and bleed as required. For vehicle specific repair procedures get a auto repair manual that can be viewed online.