I recently replaces the ignition lock cylinder and had key programmed to car. Now I can’t use my windshield wipers nor Radio. I have checked the fuses and all look good. Any suggestions. Thank You.
The first thing I like to do when I have more than one electrical feature no longer working is to look for a common between the two. I will pull up a wiring diagram for each circuit and look for a common fuse, ground or relay. And of course any recent work done is a good place to look as well. I would think Fuse #7 would be the culprit. Fuse #7 supplies power to the wiper switch and Navigation display(also radio display I think) and the immobilizer which has to do with anti-theft which may have been an issue caused when reprogramming the key.
What to check:
Fuse 5, 7, 10 & 32. No need to check fuse 22 or 23 as the car wouldn’t start if they were bad.
Recently I cleaned my throttle body with throttle body cleaner. After a few cranks it finally started. I drove it about 20 miles came home. Tried to start it the next day WILL NOT start. Put the pedal to the floor, again no start. Why?
We have taken the time to develop a no start diagnostic chart for just this type of situation.
We are trying to figure out how to replace the front wheel studs on a 1998 Honda Accord EX, but all methods we’ve seen described so far involve a grinding, but we do not have one, nor wish to purchase one. Since it is continuously referred to as “the grinding method”, that would seem to imply there are OTHER methods as well, correct? I mean, Honda couldn’t possibly have designed these Accords to only be able to replace the wheel lug nut studs on them by taking a grinder to them, right? lol
You are correct, there is another method for replacing the wheel stud. It is the method of doing it “the right way”. If the manufacturer didn’t want all the material on the wheel stud they would have made the studs already cut. All the grinding will weaken the stud and I do not recommend it.
Replacing the front wheel lug stud
Replacing a front wheel lug stud will require removal of the front steering knuckle from the vehicle and replacement of the axle nut. In addition to replacing the axle nut, on some Accord models, the front wheel bearing must be replaced, as the front hub is pressed into the bearing. On these models, the hub must be pressed out of the bearing to allow enough room for the wheel lug stud to be removed from and installed into the hub.
To replace a front wheel lug stud proceed as follows:
Remove the front knuckle assembly. For specific details, refer to the procedure in this section.
On 1996–97 Accord models, press the front hub out of the wheel bearing assembly.On some models of the Accord you may have to unbolt the hub sub-assembly from the knuckle.
Place the back side of the hub squarely over a suitable deep well impact socket just large enough to clear the button head of the stud.
Using a hydraulic press, or a suitable ball peen hammer, drive the stud out of the hub into the socket.To install:
Place the front side of the hub flush with the deep well socket used for removal. Make sure the socket is deep enough to ensure that the threaded portion of the stud will not contact the bottom of the socket when it is fully installed.
Drive the threaded portion of the stud though the back of the hub until the button head portion of the stud bottoms on the hub.
7.On 1996–97 Accord models:
1.Replace the wheel bearing. For specific details, follow the bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.
2.Press the hub into the wheel bearing assembly.
8.If the hub sub-assembly was removed, install it onto the knuckle.
9.The balance of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal, noting the following points:
◦For every stud replaced, use a new wheel lug nut. Torque the lug nuts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
◦Install a new axle nut and torque the nut to 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm), then stake the nut.
I had a bolt missing from my head cover and when I replaced it with the wrong bolt it caused a gap in the gasket and caused an oil leak. Is the head cover gasket the only thing I need to replace once I get the correct bolts?
There are some seals or grommets around the head where the spark plugs go. These should be replaced. They should come with the valve cover gasket kit.
Valve Cover Replacement
Except 2.4L Engine
Remove the spark plug wires by twisting side to side and gently pulling. Note or label their location and place aside.
Starting from the outside and working inward, using a 10mm wrench or socket with an extension and ratchet, remove the fasteners securing the valve cover to the cylinder head.
If equipped, remove all hoses and brackets.
Carefully lift the cover off the cylinder head. Use care to not loose the sealing grommets when lifting the cover. Place the cover upright in a clean, protected area. If the cover is stuck onto the cylinder head, using a suitable prytool carefully pry the cover upward at the corners. Move each corner no more than a 1/16 inch at a time.
Use a pick tool to carefully remove the valve cover-to-spark plug tube grommets
Carefully remove and inspect the valve cover gasket and replace it if it is damaged
Install the valve cover properly in the cylinder head groove-1996 Accord shown
Rocker arm (valve) cover torque sequence-non-VTEC 2.2L engines
Tighten the rocker arm (valve) cover bolts in the sequence shown-3.0L engine
Thoroughly clean and inspect the gasket surface of the cover and cylinder head. Rubbing alcohol or a suitable brake cleaner works well for this application.
Protect the eyes and exposed skin from contact with cleaning agents. Do not use near an open flame.
Inspect the rubber valve cover gasket, the sealing grommets, and the seal around the spark plug holes. If the gasket or seals are brittle, cracked or damaged, replace them. If the old gasket and seals are not worn or damaged they can be reused once cleaned.
To clean the valve cover gasket:
Place the gasket in a suitable, clear plastic bag.
Spray a small amount of brake cleaner, or pour about 2 ounces of rubbing alcohol into the bag.
Close the end of the bag and swish the cleaning fluid around, making certain the entire gasket has been thoroughly saturated. Do not leave the gasket in the bag for more than 5 minutes.
Remove the gasket, and wipe clean with a paper towel or clean soft cloth.
Apply a liquid, non-hardening gasket sealant, such as Honda sealant part No. 08718-0001 or 08718-0003 to the valve cover side of the spark plug opening seals and press them into the valve cover.
Install the valve cover gasket securely into the groove in the valve cover.
Apply a 1/2 inch bead of sealant to the corners of the gasket, where the gasket meets the cylinder head and the camshaft journal cap.
Install the grommets if removed, and tighten the valve cover fasteners from the inside out evenly in three steps. For the 2.2L and 3.0L engines, tighten the retainers in the sequence shown in the accompanying figures. Tighten the valve cover fastener, as follows:
4-cylinder engines: to 86 inch lbs. (9.8 Nm).
3.0L engine: 108 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
The remainder of the assembly procedure is the reverse of the removal sequence.
I noticed that I can shift all my gears in my car except go into park. I took off the clip and used a pen to wiggle it and get it to go so i could take my key out, but i had to wrestle with it. I tried turning the car on and off, checking the button, everything i could think of while sitting and messing with it, but it wont shift effortless all of a sudden. It was fine yesterday, but today when I drove to campus it stopped.
The Shifter cable may need to be adjusted or replaced.
Shift Cable Adjustment for 2009 – 2013 Honda Fit
Shift Cable Adjustment
Remove the center console.
Shift the transmission to N.
Remove the nut securing the shift cable end.
Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) a quarter turn; the corner (C) on the socket holder will be in the opening (D) of the shift lever bracket base (E). Then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the bracket. Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (F).
Push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back two steps so that the shift position is in N. Do not hold the shift cable guide (B) to adjust the shift cable.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check that the N indicator comes on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 in) pin (A) through the positioning holes (B) on the shift lever bracket base and into the positioning hole on the shift lever. Use only the 6.0 mm (0.24 in) pin.
Check that the shift lever is secured in N.
Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) to place the corner (C) on the holder opposite the opening (D) in the shift lever bracket base (E). Align the holder with the opening in the bracket, then slide the holder into the bracket. Install the shift cable end (F) over the mounting stud (G) by aligning its square hole with the square fitting (H) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder a quarter turn until the holder stops to secure the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (I).
Make sure that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B).
If the shift cable end is out of position with the mounting stud, remove the shift cable from the shift cable bracket, then reinstall the cable end over the mounting stud before reinstalling the shift cable to the shift cable bracket. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud with the shift cable install on the shift cable bracket.
If the shift cable end does not ride at the bottom of the mounting stud, rotate the stud to align the square fitting with the hole.
Secure the shift cable end with the nut (A).
Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in) pin (B) that was installed to hold the shift lever.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever to each position, and check that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
Shift to P, and check that the shift lock works properly. Push the shift lock release, and check that the shift lever releases, and also check that the shift lever locks when it is shifted back into P.
I did a head gasket job, I had trouble with the timing belt and got the crankshaft ahead of the camshaft two or three teeth and cranked it a few times before I found it, I realigned the belt and wont start , should I be worried about some bent valves? or am I possibly still safe as I’m sure its an interference engine. It is a 1997 Honda Civic 1.6L SOHC.
Yes, you should be worried about bent valves.
You should perform a compression test on each cylinder since you know for certain that the timing belt is set correctly now. This will let you know if you have a bent valve.
The compression should be similar for each cylinder. If one is considerably less, like 20 psi or even 0 psi, you have an issue.
Timing Belt Replacement
This engine is classified as an Interference engine. If the timing belt breaks or jumps timing, a piston may contact an open valve. Piston to valve contact may cause damage to the valve, piston and other engine components. In some cases valve to valve contact may be experienced when the timing belt breaks or jumps timing. To avoid belt breakage, replace the timing belt as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer timing belt replacement interval.
With the timing belt removed, avoid turning the camshaft or crankshaft. If movement is required, exercise extreme caution to avoid valve damage caused by piston contact.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery ground cable.
2. Remove the engine compartment lower splash shield.
3. Loosen the power steering pump lock and mounting bolts, then remove the power steering belt.
4. Remove the power steering pump mounting and lock bolts, then position the pump aside with the hoses attached.
5. Loosen the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the drive belt.
6. Loosen the alternator adjuster lock bolt, then remove the alternator drive belt.
7. Remove the engine oil dipstick.
8. Remove the timing belt upper cover.
9. Remove the drive belt idler pulley and bracket.
10. Support the engine by positioning a suitable jack and wooden block under the engine oil pan.
11. Remove the three upper engine mounting bracket retaining nuts, then remove the bracket.
12. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt, then the crankshaft pulley.
13. Remove the lower timing belt cover and the engine oil dipstick tube. Discard the O-ring.
14. Remove the crankshaft position sensor retaining bolts, then disconnect the electrical connector and remove the sensor.
15. Align the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks.
16. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt 180°.
17. Move the timing belt tensioner away from the timing belt and tighten the retaining bolt to hold the pulley in position.
18. Remove the timing belt.
19. Ensure the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned.
20. Install the new timing belt tightly over the crankshaft sprocket, tensioner pulley, water pump pulley and the camshaft sprocket.
21. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt and allow the timing belt to tension.
22. After the timing belt has tensioned, tighten the tensioner pulley retaining bolt.
23. Install the crankshaft position sensor.
24. Install the timing belt lower and upper covers.
25. Install the crankshaft pulley and torque the attaching bolt to 14 ft. lbs., then tighten bolt an additional 90°. Do not use an impact wrench.
26. Turn the crankshaft pulley approximately 5-6 revolutions counterclockwise to position the timing belt on the sprockets and pulleys.
27. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
28. Position the No. 1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke.
29. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt.
30. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft sprocket timing mark is located approximately three teeth of the from the front cover timing mark.
31. Torque the timing belt tensioner pulley retaining bolt to 33 ft. lbs., using care not disturb the timing belt adjustment.
32. Align the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket timing marks. If the marks are not aligned, the timing belt must be removed and installed once again.
33. Install the engine oil dipstick tube with a new O-ring.
34. Install the upper engine mounting bracket. Torque the attaching nuts to 54 ft. lbs.
35. Remove the jack and wooden block from under the engine oil pan.
36. Install the drive belt idler pulley and bracket.
37. Install the upper timing belt cover, then the engine oil dipstick with a new O-ring.
38. Install the A/C compressor and alternator drive belts. Refer to “Accessory Drive Belt Tension” for proper belt tension.
39. Install the power steering pump.
40. Install the power steering pump drive belt. Refer to “Accessory Drive Belt Tension” for proper belt tension.
41. Install the engine compartment lower splash shield.
Start the engine. Hold the engine at 3,000 rpm without load(in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
Hold the engine at 3,000-4,000 rpm for at least 10 seconds.
Is DTC P0325 Indicated?
YES – Go to step 4.
No – Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the knock sensor and at the ECM/PCM.
Turn the ignition OFF.
Disconnect the knock sensor 3P connector.
Turn the ignition switch ON.
Measure the voltage between knock sensor 3P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Is there about 5V?
YES – Go to step 12.
No – Go to step 8.
Measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector terminal A9 and body ground.
Is there about 5V?
YES – Repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A9) and knock sensor.
No – Go to step 9.
Turn the ignition OFF.
Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (31P) from the ECM/PCM.
Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A9 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES – Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A9) and knock sensor.
No – Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.
Substitute a known-good knock sensor and recheck.
Is DTC P0325 indicated?
YES – Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM..
No – Replace the original knock sensor.
How to replace the Knock Sensor without removing the Intake Manifold.
I have oil pan gasket leak, can I use stop oil leak additive to stop the leak? thank you
The best thing to do would be to replace the oil pan gasket. According to the labor time guide it calls for 2.5 hours. However that is not what you asked, so let me address your question. According to the oil stop leak additive manufacturers the product swells existing gaskets and will not seal larger leaks. That being said, I suppose the size of the oil leak would have to determine if it would work or not. You could always try it and see for under $20 it might be worth it to see if it does. Let us know how it turns out if you do decide to try it.
Lucas Oil Stop Leak
Engine Oil Pan Gasket R&R
1. If the engine is out of the vehicle, go to step 7.
2. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height.
3. Drain the engine oil.
4. D17A2 engine: Disconnect the primary heated oxygen sensor (primary HO2S) connector and secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) connector, then remove the exhaust pipe A/three way catalytic converter (TWC).
5. D17A6 engine: Disconnect the third heated oxygen sensor (third HO2S) connector, remove the exhaust pipe A/TWC assembly.
6. D17A1 engine: Remove the exhaust pipe/muffler assembly.
7. Remove the bolts/nuts securing the oil pan.
8. Remove the oil pan.
1. Remove any old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pan mating surface of the block and to the inner threads of the bolt holes. Fig. 1:
a. Apply a 4 mm wide bead of liquid gasket.
b. Apply a second bead where the two ends of the first bead meet.
c. Do not install the parts if 4 minutes or more have elapsed since applying liquid gasket.
d. Instead, reapply liquid gasket after removing the old residue.
2017 Honda Accord Coupe. Car stored 2 winters. Spring 2018 – When I went to put car back on road, trouble with car not starting. I demanded and got a new battery.
Spring 2019 – Car okay when I put it back on the road. But in October 2019, the car started having battery trouble and I had to keep calling roadside assistance. Honda dealer said it was because I don’t drive the car enough to charge the battery. Last year after I got the new battery, I didn’t have any more problems until October. So this tells me the battery is the problem. It seems they only last about a year. I need a dependable car. Am I being unreasonable?
If you are in the habit of leaving the car sit for long periods of time you should consider purchasing a battery maintainer. This will keep the battery fully charged and cause the battery to have a longer life. I personally use the “Battery Tender” brand with great success. It comes with plug and play connections. You can just plug it in the wall, plug it into the connector attached to the battery and leave it for as long as you like without worrying about the battery going dead.
Why is my battery draining?
When the vehicle sets for long periods it is normal for the battery to be weakened. The Clock draws battery power constantly and some GPS equipped vehicles will draw even more. The battery gets charged from the alternator when the vehicle is driven. So if the car does not get driven often the battery will weaken.
My car was bought new in 2010. We have been out of the country for a year and now we are back to US to a new state. As per the state rules we took our car for the emissions. But even after driving for 150 miles it still fails the test. My car needs to pass the emissions in order to get the new registration done. please advice.
Post the year of the vehicle and the computer codes that are causing it to fail when you get a chance and we can dig into the causes.
In the meantime hear is a cheat sheet on how to pass the emissions test.