I have a problem with my windshield wipers. After wiping, it stops on the middle of the windshield, not on ”park” position. I changed by a new motor but it didn’t resolved my problem. What else could be defect? Thank you.
After installation of the wiper motor the wiper arms need to be adjusted.
Wiper Arm Stop Position
1.When the wiper arms stop at automatic stop position, confirm the wiper arms are at the standard position.
Position at about 1.1 in. (29 mm) [0.9 in. (23 mm)] from the top of cowl cover (A)
Position at about 4.1 in. (106 mm) [4.2 in. (107 mm)] from the top of cowl cover (A)
I have a Honda Civic 2006 lx with1.8 lit engine and millage is 243000KM.
What could cause gray sludge to end up in my coolant overflow and on radiator cap.I think stuck on cap when pass from radiator to tank. I cleaned tank and check a every 2 month almost 1 or 2 inches collects. Thank you
It is possible that along the way someone has put some additive in the cooling system. If you are unsure you may want to flush the radiator.
You can flush the system and then test it to see if it returns or not. If the sludge is not from an additive then it is a good thing you have found it. Now you just have to flush out the system to get rid of the gray sludge. Purchase a radiator flush kit and liquid flush from you local auto parts store. I will provide links below as well for online purchase. The Flush kit should come with instructions to follow on how to install it. Just make sure the engine has had a chance to cool down before installing the kit. After you have installed the kit, put the liquid flush in and drive around with the heater on. This will insure that the flush gets into all the different water jackets and heater core. Follow the instructions and flush. Be sure to drain the radiator from the radiator drain plug. Use new coolant to refill when done.
If I drive my car for a while making frequent stops at different places. Lets just say I go to 3 different stores. I cant leave my car running when I go to crank my car after my third stop it will crank but it cuts right back off. If I wait about 10-15 minutes then try it will crank right up. What could that be?
Will crank but it cuts right back off
Sounds to me like an ignition control module is breaking down. This happens once the module starts to get hot. After you set long enough for it to cool back down it starts and functions correctly until it is once again overheated. This is from part failure only.
My ignition switch cylinder went out. So I went and bought the new part.I also bought a new key fob to go with my car. If I replace the ignition switch, would I need to program the key fob with the old key or the new key?
Which ever key starts the car is the one I would use.
Immobilizer System Description
The vehicle is equipped with an immobilizer system that will disable the vehicle unless the proper ignition key is used.
This system consists of a transponder located in the ignition key, an immobilizer control unit-receiver, an indicator, and the PCM.
When the key is inserted in the ignition switch and turned to the (II) position, the immobilizer control unit-receiver sends power to the transponder in the ignition key. The transponder then sends a coded signal back through the immobilizer control unit-receiver to the PCM.
When the proper key has been used, the immobilizer indicator will come on for about 2 seconds, then go off.
If the wrong key has been used whose code was not received or recognized by the unit, the indicator will come on for about 2 seconds. Then it will blink until the ignition switch is turned OFF.
If the ignition switch is turned OFF, the indicator will blink for about 5 seconds to signal that the unit has been set correctly. Then the indicator will go off.
When the customer has lost his key, and cannot start the engine, contact Honda Customer Relations.
My 2008 Honda Hybrid has check engine light and ima light still lighting while driving. The engine seems to have a problem when driving. It does not run properly like cutting and start again. After scanning they told me to change coil number 1 but when changed the problem still occurs. Advice?
IMA Light On along with Check Engine Light
When the IMA light comes on, this is a sign of a problem in the Hybrid system. When the Check Engine light is also lit, the most common problem is the Hybrid Battery. You can actually have this confirmed by having the “p-codes” (diagnostic trouble codes) read from the on-board computer. Most local “big chain” parts stores, like AutoZone, will do this for Free (except in California). These p-codes will point to the faulty part/sensor. So, if it is a problem with the Hybrid Battery, this will confirm. If there is another problem somewhere, the p-codes will serve as the starting point for the diagnosis, and you can more accurately determine the root of the problem.
If it does confirm there is a problem in the Hybrid Battery, Honda is currently having a “Battery Exchange Program”. Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty.
I did a hard turn at around 30ish mph and my back wheels slid a little bit. (I have a fwd car) After the wheels screeched, as the car started to go forwards I heard a sound somewhat like “crrrrrrnn” What was that?
Back Wheels Slid and Made Noise
More than likely the noise was from the traction control unit. When the wheel slip the speed sensors send a signal to the abs unit to apply some brake pressure using the abs motor. This is the most likely scenario for such a noise. I do not think it is anything to worry about. It was just the vehicle doing what it was designed to do in that particular situation. If it starts to happen when you are not Hot Roding, then worry.
Within the past couple of days, I have noticed a clicking coming from my car. I would notice this while driving, but it would not happen at any specific time or activity. Fast or slow, turning or straight, accelerating or decelerating, it didn’t matter. Sometimes it would happen semi-frequently, and other times, I could drive 10 minutes before hearing anything. It has been driving me bonkers as I cannot pinpoint the times when it happens. Tonight, I decided to try rocking the car to see if anything occurred. Sure enough, I heard the noise coming from my front driver’s wheel area:
Any ideas? Thank you kindly!
First of all, thank you for providing a video so that we at least able to hear the noise. Secondly, there are several possibilities for a clicking noise. Loose mounting bolts, worn suspension bushing, worn strut mount, worn stabilizer bar bushing, faulty or worn front hub bearing, faulty or worn front CV joint. This would be difficult to tell without a thorough inspection.
Having the vehicle on a lift with someone on top with it rocking the car and someone underneath listening would be optimal.
2 weeks ago I took my car in for servicing and they told me I needed a new vtec solenoid gasket, but it wasn’t an emergency. Yesterday, while driving, the dashboard lit up with the VSA, emergency, and emissions indicators, and the “D” was flashing. As I pulled into an exit the car conked out and smoke spewed out of the hood. They later said it was a blown out head gasket and a radiator leak that caused it. So, did the solenoid gasket have anything to do with it, and if so, is my service dealer at fault?
Did the solenoid gasket have anything to do with it? NO
The VTEC system has nothing to do with the cooling system whatsoever. A vtec gasket leak would allow for a small oil leak, not coolant like a radiator leak.
The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.