I did a hard turn at around 30ish mph and my back wheels slid a little bit. (I have a fwd car) After the wheels screeched, as the car started to go forwards I heard a sound somewhat like “crrrrrrnn” What was that?
Back Wheels Slid and Made Noise
More than likely the noise was from the traction control unit. When the wheel slip the speed sensors send a signal to the abs unit to apply some brake pressure using the abs motor. This is the most likely scenario for such a noise. I do not think it is anything to worry about. It was just the vehicle doing what it was designed to do in that particular situation. If it starts to happen when you are not Hot Roding, then worry.
Within the past couple of days, I have noticed a clicking coming from my car. I would notice this while driving, but it would not happen at any specific time or activity. Fast or slow, turning or straight, accelerating or decelerating, it didn’t matter. Sometimes it would happen semi-frequently, and other times, I could drive 10 minutes before hearing anything. It has been driving me bonkers as I cannot pinpoint the times when it happens. Tonight, I decided to try rocking the car to see if anything occurred. Sure enough, I heard the noise coming from my front driver’s wheel area:
Any ideas? Thank you kindly!
First of all, thank you for providing a video so that we at least able to hear the noise. Secondly, there are several possibilities for a clicking noise. Loose mounting bolts, worn suspension bushing, worn strut mount, worn stabilizer bar bushing, faulty or worn front hub bearing, faulty or worn front CV joint. This would be difficult to tell without a thorough inspection.
Having the vehicle on a lift with someone on top with it rocking the car and someone underneath listening would be optimal.
2 weeks ago I took my car in for servicing and they told me I needed a new vtec solenoid gasket, but it wasn’t an emergency. Yesterday, while driving, the dashboard lit up with the VSA, emergency, and emissions indicators, and the “D” was flashing. As I pulled into an exit the car conked out and smoke spewed out of the hood. They later said it was a blown out head gasket and a radiator leak that caused it. So, did the solenoid gasket have anything to do with it, and if so, is my service dealer at fault?
Did the solenoid gasket have anything to do with it? NO
The VTEC system has nothing to do with the cooling system whatsoever. A vtec gasket leak would allow for a small oil leak, not coolant like a radiator leak.
The VTEC system changes the cam profile to correspond to the engine speed. It maximizes torque at low engine speed and output at high engine speed. The low lift cam is used at low engine speeds, and the high lift cam is used at high engine speeds. The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.
I think my water pump may have exploded. We have been having issues with what we believe is the thermostat sensor and the head gasket leaking. Which we think are causing it to not start about 25% to 50% of the time. I check and fill the oil and antifreeze daily. Today I took a small trip which was only about 20 miles and everything was fine all day until I got home. And suddenly there was a weird sound. Then a few moments later there was an explosion and steam and fluid erupted everywhere. It did not die nor stall just simply sputtered a little until I shut it off. I’m not entirely sure what the problem is nor how to fix it.
From what you described there was a small leak in the cooling system. Now there is a big leak. You will need to locate the leak and make the necessary repairs to correct it. With such a large leak it shouldn’t be to difficult to locate. Of course wait until the engine is cooled down.
Locating a Large Coolant Leak
Since you already know there is a leak just use water for locating the leak. Remove the fill cap and pour water in. Chances are before you can top it off you will see the water flowing from where the large leak is located. Most likely would be one of the hoses. Replace the hose or what ever is needed. Then test for any smaller leaks.
Locating a Small Coolant Leak
Locating a smaller coolant leak is a bit more difficult and requires a special tool. The special tool is a cooling system pressure tester. If you don’t already have one you can borrow one from a local auto parts store or purchase one. Here is a good one to have as it will work on multiple vehicles.
Top off the cooling system before installing the pressure tester. Continue to use just water to top off the system for testing. Install the tool and pump the pressure up to the same pressure as the max pressure of the radiator cap. Most are between 15 – 17 psi. Leave the system under pressure for about 30 minutes. If the pressure does not drop then the system has no more leaks. If the pressure has dropped, you will need to locate the small leak. Look for a small stream. Sometimes putting a dry piece of cardboard underneath is helpful to find the area. Repair any leaks found.
Pressure Drops With No Leak Found
You may find that the pressure keeps dropping without seeing any external leaks. If it takes 30 minutes for the pressure to drop just a bit I wouldn’t worry to much about it. However if the pressure drops fairly quick you may have an internal leak. Most internal leaks are from a blown gasket. The most common would be a blown head or intake gasket.
Now that all the leaks have been found and repaired there are a few things left to do. I highly recommend replacing the thermostat since the cooling system has already been relieved of its coolant. Coolant is expensive and a thermostat is generally under $20. So take advantage and only buy the coolant once. After you have replaced the thermostat or decided to skip it, the cooling system needs to be properly filled. Drain all of the water left in the system from testing.
Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant. That is 50% water and 50% concentrated coolant. You may also purchase premix if you do not feel like mixing it yourself. Top off the system and bleed as required. For vehicle specific repair procedures get a auto repair manual that can be viewed online.
HOW TOO FIX A SPUTTERING PROBLEM ON MY 1994 HONDA ACCORD
A sputtering problem may occur when the engine is lacking in fuel or spark. It can also occur when there is a restriction in the exhaust system including but not limited to the EGR valve. The most common reason would be from lack of ignition spark or faulty ignition spark. This may be from failing spark plugs, plug wires or distributor components. A good place to start would be with a good tune up.
However the fuel may be the issue at hand. If the fuel is contaminated the engine has a hard time operating with out causing a sputtering problem. Replacing the fuel or trying to use a higher octane fuel from a different station may be the best course of action.
violent shake in front end when speeds reach 60-61 mph. Tires balanced and rechecked. Front left wheel bearings replaced. Mechanic says parts around wheels are tight. Newer CV joints. Tires good, no bad rims.
The first thing I would try would be to rotate the front wheels to the back. Test drive it and see if the shake moves toward the back. This would indicate an issue with the wheel or tire. Most likely a busted belt in the tire or tires.
Another option that comes to mind would be brake related. If you have a sticking caliper it may go unnoticed until it has been driven for a while and had a chance to heat up. This would intensify a warped rotor.
My 1994 Honda Accord has been the most trouble free and reliable auto I’ve ever owned. I became the 2nd owner of this low-mileage vehicle back in 2007 after my Infiniti Q45 went kaput. Since then, it has required minimal repairs beyond the usual maintenance.
My current issue has me stumped. It may be coincidental, but I never had any sort of electrical or CHECK ENGINE light issues prior to a recent visit to one of those drive-through car washes at a gas station, where the vinyl slats pound the car and the water shoots in from the sides as the device moves back and forward along the length of the car.
Anyway, immediately upon leaving that car wash, for the first time ever my CHECK ENGINE light suddenly came on. Just solid, no blinking. I also noticed that the Speedometer and odometer were dead. I have four analog gauges in my IP: Two large ones, the Speedo (with old-style odometer) on the right, and the Tachometer on the left. Outside of both of those are small analog gauges for the fuel level (right) and oil temp (left).
The rest of the IP uses digital indicators (battery charge, SRS, CHECK ENGINE, etc.,), and there is a stacked P-R-N-D4-D3-2-1 series of indicator lights in the center, separating the two big analog gauges. The tranny indicators are just boxes whose edges become illumined depending on the AT gear selection.
When the CHECK ENGINE light came on, I drove for a while, then stopped the engine. Waited a few minutes and restarted. Things seemed fine, back to normal, with speedo and odometer working, and no warning lights, until about another 10 or 15 minutes into the drive. At that point the D4 green light started flashing, and continued flashing when the CHECK ENGINE light came on again, staying lit solid as before.
Could this be an electrical issue? It puzzles me that the speedometer and odometer are dead, since I thought those were mechanically related to the rotation of the wheels and not dependent on fuses or electrical wiring.
Where do you suggest I start my troubleshooting? BTW the tranny seems normal, no harsh or unexpected shifting, no gear slipping, and all the fluid levels are fine. All the other analog gauges work fine too.
CHECK ENGINE light, dead speedo/odometer and blinking D4 indicator light. That’s where I’m at. Hope you can offer some insight. Thanks in advance if you can.
Your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off. This is common after driving through a big puddle or EXTREME car wash.
This vehicle uses a an electronic sensor called a VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor that is mounted int he transmission and sends an output signal.
D4 Indicator Light Blinking:
If an abnormality exists in the the transaxle electronic control system and a fault code is stored in the TCM memory, TCM will deliver an output signal to turn on and blink “D4” light on A/T gear position indicator on the instrument panel.