Nov 012017

2000 Honda Civic

How to drain and refill transmission fluid on a 5 speed manual transmission on my 2000 Honda Civic LX?

Manual Transmission Oil

NOTE Check the transmission oil with the engine OFF and the vehicle on level ground.
1.Remove the oil filler plug, then check the level and condition of the oil.

drain plug manual transmission 2000 Honda Civic
2. The oil level must be up to the filler hole. If it is below the hole, add oil until it runs out, then reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer.
3.If the transmission oil is dirty, remove the drain plug and drain the oil.
4.Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, and refill the transmission with the recommended oil t o the proper level.
NOTE The drain plug washer should be replaced at every oil change.

5.Reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer.

Always use Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives.

drain and fill plug manual transmission 2000 Honda Civic

Oct 282017

honda civic

My car will not turn over. When I turn the key all the lights turn on and makes a buzzing sound. The steering wheel does not turn.

Car will not turn over

Most likely cause for this problem would be a bad or weak battery. The lights only draw a few amps to operate but the starter requires hundreds. If the battery is older than 4 years it is good enough reason to replace it.

Honda Civic engine pinging

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Oct 272017

2016 Honda Civic

I put a can of nos octane booster fuel treatment in my 2016 Honda Civic yesterday. On my way home while merging on to the highway, the car started making a “ting, ting, ting” noise. Almost like rattling. I pulled over, and remerged back onto the highway and it made that same sound. It only does it while accelerating.

Could this be maybe the fuel injector cleaner removing the crud?

Engine pinging

I wouldn’t think your octane booster would cause it, if anything octane booster should have helped it. If it is just the name of the fuel treatment and not an actual booster it still shouldn’t cause an issue unless you you added it to less than 1/8 of gas.

Generally the “ting, ting, ting” noise is  commonly referred to as engine pinging. This is caused by too low of octane for the ignition timing to handle. On older engines the ignition timing is adjustable and can be adjusted to not ping in lower octane situations. On newer vehicles the engine is equipped with a knock sensor that will adjust the ignition timing automatically when this happens. If you continue to drive it this way permanent internal engine damage may occur. (hole in the piston)

If the fuel tank is less than half full, I would recommend filling it with the highest octane fuel available. And buy it from a different fueling station just in case the last fill up was contaminated.

Oct 202017

2005 Honda Accord

Car runs for half a mile, slows down to a halt. It still on but no matter how much gas I give it, it wont move. I turn it off for 5 minutes and then I turn it on and it runs but half mile later the cycle begins again…please help me

Going to need a little more information on this one.

  • Does the engine rev but the car does not move?
  • Engine does not rev when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor?
  • Does the engine sputter before it starts to slow to a halt?
  • Check engine light on?
Oct 192017

Honda Odessy

I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L. i-vtec VCM. It started running badly, very rough, would die in gear at idle. Had code P2647 VCM system stuck ON. I removed and clean the VTEC Spool Valve, EOP Switch and VTEC Solenoid. Reinstalled and cleared the code. The code did not come back but now I get misfires on all cylinders. I checked the timing belt to see if it slipped but it hadn’t. I replaced the timing belt while I was that far. Back together but still get pretty equal misfires on all cylinders.
I performed a leak down test on all cylinders. Cylinders 4, 5 &6 are all less than 10%. Cylinders 1, 2 &3 are at 80% loss on all cylinders. This is the head designed to shut down cylinders. There’s air through the exhaust and also air coming from the valve cover PCV connections.

It has been my experience in the past, that when our shop replaced just the switch it never repaired the vehicle but when we replaced the whole vtec assembly it would. This is especially true when there is any amount of sludge in the motor which is common on these engines.

I’m still a believer though that the valve assemblies themselves are sludging up causing the pressure switch to read incorrectly. Everyone that I’ve replaced has been sludged in the valve and the screen filter in the gasket.

Honda Code P2647 – Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage

Code P2647 Possible causes
  • Check engine oil level, oil condition and pressure
  • Faulty Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) / Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch
  • VTEC/Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch harness is open or shorted
  • VTEC/Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch circuit poor electrical connection


Code P2647 Description

The VTEC system activates the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) by command from the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), and it charges/discharges the hydraulic circuit of the VTEC mechanism that switches valve timing between Low and High. The ECM/PCM monitors oil pressure in the hydraulic circuit of the VTEC mechanism using the rocker arm oil pressure switch (VTEC oil pressure switch) downstream of the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve). If there is a difference between the oil pressure condition in the hydraulic circuit that is determined by the ECM/PCM command and the oil pressure condition that is determined by the status of the rocker arm oil pressure switch (VTEC oil pressure switch), the system is considered faulty, and a DTC is stored.

Source: Team Leader Tech

2009 Honda Jazz – Brake Shudder

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Oct 152017

Honda Jazz

Hi All. Our Honda Jazz has developed a ‘shudder’ when braking. It only happens when the brakes are applied and it is noticeable past 40km/h. As an example: If I am driving down the highway and apply the brakes (even with light to medium pressure), the front of the car shudders/shakes. There are no abnormalities in the tyres so I’m thinking the discs are warped? Is there any other reason for this shudder? The car has done approximately 167,000kms and runs like a dream. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Brake Shudder

In my experience 99.9% of the time this is caused from warped rotors. The other 0.01% is caused from tire wear. The important thing here is to determine why the rotors are warped. Was there a panic stop where you had to slam on the brakes at a high rate of speed? Is one of the calipers sticking causes the brake pads to continuously rub on the rotors causing them to get excessively hot? Are the brake pads just worn out?

In any case it is best to replace the brake pads at the same time as the rotors. This will give the brake pads and rotors new clean surfaces to work with. Otherwise you may end up with some unwanted brake noise.

2005 Honda Element Engine Code P0135

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Sep 292017

2005 Honda Element

What problems might have caused this code?  How can I correct it?  Engine code is P0135

Honda Code P0135

Description: Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

Code P0135 Probable Causes

  1. Oxygen Sensor or solenoid faulty
  2. Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
  3. Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
  4. Open fuse

What does Code P0135 mean?

The code means that there is a problem with the heater element circuit of the heated oxygen sensor. The control module monitors how long it take the sensor to warm up and start sending an adequate signal. The code is triggered when the sensor is taking too long to warm up. Water getting inside the heated oxygen sensor connector can caused the heated oxygen sensor fuse to blow. Before replacing the sensor, check for the condition of the heated oxygen sensor fuse and connectors. If the sensor and connector are OK, replacing the O2 Sensor 1 usually takes care of the problem.


Jun 212017

2011 Honda Fit / JazzStrange chirp noise

I drive a 2011 Honda Jazz 1.5 EX-S (Pre-facelift), the car has about 112500km on the clock at the moment.

Now these are my issues. There is a strange chirp noise if I put a little too much gas while releasing the clutch. Doesn’t happen all the time. After the vehicle has warmed up a bit, there is a squeak while releasing the clutch. And while driving slow in low gears. But this squeak is not existent while in neutral. This noise is also heard if I lift the car and turn the front wheels while in gear, but not heard in neutral.

The next issue, but I am unsure whether it is related, is when I accelerate I hear what I would say is a metallic rattling, sounds like a loose bearing noise, but is most apparent if I am say, in the wrong gear trying to accelerate, or while cruising in a higher gear. (I have been informed my transmission mount is a “little soft”, could this be the rattle?) and while slowing down with the clutch engaged with no gas.

If I rev the car in neutral or with the clutch disengaged, none of the above noises are apparent. There is however a slight moan at a certain rpm when the revs drop for I would say half a second – probably unrelated.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Clutch Release Bearing

First issue: Pressure Plate Release Bearing would be my first guess.

Second issue: May be related but might be a different part rattling around near the clutch release fork. If the release fork set spring has broken it might be the cause of all your problems.

Apply high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the release fork (A), the release fork bolt (B), the release bearing (C), and the release bearing guide (D) in the shaded areas, then set the release fork set spring (E).

clutch release bearing 2011 Honda Fit

Jun 172017

1998 Honda AccordGood morning. I have a 1998 Honda Accord. My engine couldn’t start first. Then later we suspected some fuses which were changed, then it starts but couldn’t stop working when remove the key. I called in a technician to check. We replace the alternator, then the engine can now start on and off. But the over heating signal won’t go if I start it without moving and again the D4 on gear signal would be blinking. Also the wipers won’t stop. It continues working even if off. Thanks for your response.

If the overheating signal is illuminated the first thing to check would be the coolant level in the radiator and overflow tank.

D4 light starts blinking

When the D4 light starts blinking, an error has occurred and been detected by the PCM.

D4 light blinking Honda Accord

Get the Diagnostic Trouble Code and we will see what can be done.

Wipers won’t Stop

Most likely the intermittent wiper relay is sticking. Try removing it to see if the wipers stop. You may also trace the wiring using the provided wiring diagram if needed.

Windshield Wiper wiring diagram 1998 Honda Accord