First of all, the battery light on. Just replaced alternator and battery. Checked with voltmeter at battery, fuse box and directly at alternator says 11.2 even with blower on high. Is this enough? I’m in Michigan and at 1 degree right now is that normal? Or is the alternator still bad?
Battery light on
The battery light being on indicates the battery is not being charged. Therefore this can be from a bad or faulty alternator. It can also be from a bad or faulty battery. And may also be from a bad connection between the two. You should see more than 12.5 volts.
First of all, I would start by checking the fuses in the circuit. The most likely fuse to be blown would be the Main Mult-Fuse #22 (120 AMP). Seems like this is the first to blow when the battery is jumped or cables touch when changing the battery. There are two other fuses, fuse#18 and #21. Consequently I would almost put money on FUSE #22 which is located in the UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX. Other than that, you would want to make certain all cables are connected correctly and free of corrosion.
Charging system wiring diagram – 2007 Honda Odyssey
How do you remove the lower part of the timing belt cover the water pump is behind? It is a 1994 Honda Passport with a 24v V6.
Timing Belt Cover Replacement
3.2L (VIN V) Engine
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Drain the engine coolant.
3.Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4.Remove the upper fan shroud and remove the cooling fan.
5.Remove the drive belts.
6.Remove the fan pulley assembly.
7.Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley.
8.Remove the two oil cooler hose bracket bolts on the timing cover. Remove the oil cooler hose.
9.Remove the timing belt cover.
10.Install the timing belt cover and tighten bolts to 12 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
11.Install the oil cooler hose and tighten brackets to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
12.Install the crankshaft pulley. Use tool No. J-8614-01, or an equivalent pulley holder and tighten the bolts to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm).
13.Install the fan pulley assembly and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
14.Install the drive belts.
15.Install cooling fan assembly.
16.Install upper fan shroud to the radiator.
17.Install air cleaner assembly.
18.Refill the engine with fresh coolant. Bleed the cooling system.
19.Connect the negative battery cable.
How to drain and refill transmission fluid on a 5 speed manual transmission on my 2000 Honda Civic LX?
Manual Transmission Oil
NOTE Check the transmission oil with the engine OFF and the vehicle on level ground.
1.Remove the oil filler plug, then check the level and condition of the oil.
2. The oil level must be up to the filler hole. If it is below the hole, add oil until it runs out, then reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer.
3.If the transmission oil is dirty, remove the drain plug and drain the oil.
4.Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, and refill the transmission with the recommended oil t o the proper level. NOTE The drain plug washer should be replaced at every oil change.
5.Reinstall the oil filler plug with a new washer.
Always use Genuine Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF). Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the proper additives.
My car will not turn over. When I turn the key all the lights turn on and makes a buzzing sound. The steering wheel does not turn.
Car will not turn over
Most likely cause for this problem would be a bad or weak battery. The lights only draw a few amps to operate but the starter requires hundreds. If the battery is older than 4 years it is good enough reason to replace it.
I put a can of nos octane booster fuel treatment in my 2016 Honda Civic yesterday. On my way home while merging on to the highway, the car started making a “ting, ting, ting” noise. Almost like rattling. I pulled over, and remerged back onto the highway and it made that same sound. It only does it while accelerating.
Could this be maybe the fuel injector cleaner removing the crud?
I wouldn’t think your octane booster would cause it, if anything octane booster should have helped it. If it is just the name of the fuel treatment and not an actual booster it still shouldn’t cause an issue unless you you added it to less than 1/8 of gas.
Generally the “ting, ting, ting” noise is commonly referred to as engine pinging. This is caused by too low of octane for the ignition timing to handle. On older engines the ignition timing is adjustable and can be adjusted to not ping in lower octane situations. On newer vehicles the engine is equipped with a knock sensor that will adjust the ignition timing automatically when this happens. If you continue to drive it this way permanent internal engine damage may occur. (hole in the piston)
If the fuel tank is less than half full, I would recommend filling it with the highest octane fuel available. And buy it from a different fueling station just in case the last fill up was contaminated.
Car runs for half a mile, slows down to a halt. It still on but no matter how much gas I give it, it wont move. I turn it off for 5 minutes and then I turn it on and it runs but half mile later the cycle begins again…please help me
Going to need a little more information on this one.
Does the engine rev but the car does not move?
Engine does not rev when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor?
Does the engine sputter before it starts to slow to a halt?
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L. i-vtec VCM. It started running badly, very rough, would die in gear at idle. Had code P2647 VCM system stuck ON. I removed and clean the VTEC Spool Valve, EOP Switch and VTEC Solenoid. Reinstalled and cleared the code. The code did not come back but now I get misfires on all cylinders. I checked the timing belt to see if it slipped but it hadn’t. I replaced the timing belt while I was that far. Back together but still get pretty equal misfires on all cylinders.
I performed a leak down test on all cylinders. Cylinders 4, 5 &6 are all less than 10%. Cylinders 1, 2 &3 are at 80% loss on all cylinders. This is the head designed to shut down cylinders. There’s air through the exhaust and also air coming from the valve cover PCV connections.
It has been my experience in the past, that when our shop replaced just the switch it never repaired the vehicle but when we replaced the whole vtec assembly it would. This is especially true when there is any amount of sludge in the motor which is common on these engines.
I’m still a believer though that the valve assemblies themselves are sludging up causing the pressure switch to read incorrectly. Everyone that I’ve replaced has been sludged in the valve and the screen filter in the gasket.
Honda Code P2647 – Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage
Code P2647 Possible causes
Check engine oil level, oil condition and pressure
Faulty Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (VTEC) / Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch
VTEC/Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch harness is open or shorted
VTEC/Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Code P2647 Description
The VTEC system activates the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve) by command from the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), and it charges/discharges the hydraulic circuit of the VTEC mechanism that switches valve timing between Low and High. The ECM/PCM monitors oil pressure in the hydraulic circuit of the VTEC mechanism using the rocker arm oil pressure switch (VTEC oil pressure switch) downstream of the rocker arm oil control solenoid (VTEC solenoid valve). If there is a difference between the oil pressure condition in the hydraulic circuit that is determined by the ECM/PCM command and the oil pressure condition that is determined by the status of the rocker arm oil pressure switch (VTEC oil pressure switch), the system is considered faulty, and a DTC is stored.
Hi All. Our Honda Jazz has developed a ‘shudder’ when braking. It only happens when the brakes are applied and it is noticeable past 40km/h. As an example: If I am driving down the highway and apply the brakes (even with light to medium pressure), the front of the car shudders/shakes. There are no abnormalities in the tyres so I’m thinking the discs are warped? Is there any other reason for this shudder? The car has done approximately 167,000kms and runs like a dream. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
In my experience 99.9% of the time this is caused from warped rotors. The other 0.01% is caused from tire wear. The important thing here is to determine why the rotors are warped. Was there a panic stop where you had to slam on the brakes at a high rate of speed? Is one of the calipers sticking causes the brake pads to continuously rub on the rotors causing them to get excessively hot? Are the brake pads just worn out?
In any case it is best to replace the brake pads at the same time as the rotors. This will give the brake pads and rotors new clean surfaces to work with. Otherwise you may end up with some unwanted brake noise.
Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
What does Code P0135 mean?
The code means that there is a problem with the heater element circuit of the heated oxygen sensor. The control module monitors how long it take the sensor to warm up and start sending an adequate signal. The code is triggered when the sensor is taking too long to warm up. Water getting inside the heated oxygen sensor connector can caused the heated oxygen sensor fuse to blow. Before replacing the sensor, check for the condition of the heated oxygen sensor fuse and connectors. If the sensor and connector are OK, replacing the O2 Sensor 1 usually takes care of the problem.