When driving the car shakes and the check engine light flashes. What could it be?
Anytime the check engine light flashes the engine should be turned off and repaired before permanent damage is done. The most likely cause for this problem would be an engine misfire. You will want to start by have the engine codes pulled with a scan tool. This process is generally referred to as computer diagnostics.
I have a 1962 Lincoln Continental hardtop with a 430. It was running fine until a week ago. Suddenly, out of nowhere, when you turn on the ignition, there’s a single click and nothing else. This click is coming from the external starter motor relay. I replaced the relay and I’m getting exactly the same thing. The battery is brand new and fully charged. When I turn the ignition switch, the voltage across the battery terminals drops to 12.05. So it can’t be the battery. There’s a 0.07 volt drop between the positive battery terminal and the post on the starter regardless of whether the ignition switch is turned or not. There’s a 0.00 volt drop (so no drop at all) between the negative post of the battery and the starter motor housing when the ignition is off and a 0.03 volt drop when the ignition is engaged. So if my understanding is correct, there’s no significant voltage drop. Is the starter motor broken?
Replacing the Starter motor would be the fix. This is of course after you confirm the wiring is good from the Starter solenoid to the Starter along with the connections.
Starter Motor Brush Replacement
Remove the starter from the engine.
Remove the starter drive plunger lever cover and gasket.
Loosen and remove the brush cover band and remove the brushes from their holder.
Remove the two through-bolts from the starter frame.
Separate the drive end housing, starter frame and brush end plate assemblies.
Remove the starter drive plunger lever and pivot pin, and remove the armature.
Remove the ground brush retaining screws from the frame and remove the brushes.
Cut the insulated brush leads from the field coils, as close to the field connection point as possible.
Clean and inspect the starter motor.
Replace the brush end plate if the insulator between the field brush holder and the end plate is cracked or broken.
Position the new insulated field brush leads on the field coil connection. Position and crimp the clip provided with the brushes to hold the brush leads to the connection. Solder the lead, clip, and connection together using resin core solder. Use a 300 watt soldering iron.
Install the ground brush leads to the frame with the retaining screws.
Install the starter drive plunger lever and pivot pin, and install the armature.
Assemble the drive end housing, starter frame and brush end plate assemblies.
Install the two through-bolts in the starter frame. Tighten the through-bolts to 55-75 inch lbs. (6.2-8.5 Nm).
Install the brushes in their holders and install the brush cover band.
Install the starter drive plunger lever cover and gasket.
Install the starter on the engine as previously outlined.
The check engine light is on solid. The code P0183 which is the” fuel temperature sensor” is not happy. I have two questions about this code, where is this sensor located and what is the part number of the sensor.
I have called eight parts store and four Lincoln/ford dealers trying to get these two questions answered and got no ware. Please help me if you can to solve this baffling problem.
It is very strange that even dealers cant come up with answers. Is it possible that something else is triggering this code and it is not the fuel temperature sensor at all.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
PS: The car starts and runs just fine. 2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature series
Fuel Temperature Sensor
I went ahead and looked up the part for you. I double checked to make certain this is an exact fit for your 2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature series.
Fuel Temperature Sensor Location
The fuel temperature sensor is located on the fuel rail. It is the same sensor as the fuel pressure sensor. One vacuum line, 2 screws and one electrical plug.
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor electrical connector
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum connector
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor bolts (2 required)
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor O-ring
Code P0183 – Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
First determine if the motor is getting power from the switch. And if not, is the switch getting power. If you find the switch operating as it should and power getting to the motor, it may need to be replaced. Next, check all connections and test motor with both battery positive and negative.
The up and down function wires coming from the switch are RED/LT GREEN and YELLOW/LT GREEN. The black wire on the switch is connected to battery negative(ground). Use the wiring diagram provided to get an idea of how the circuit works.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose and lower degas bottle hose from the radiator.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Lift the tabs and remove the radiator support brackets and position the radiator toward the engine.
7.Remove the 2 A/C condenser bolts from the radiator and separate the condenser from the radiator. •To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
8. NOTE: Make sure the bottom radiator insulators are in place when installing the radiator.
Remove the radiator.
9.To install, reverse the removal procedure.
10.Fill and bleed the cooling system.
I have a 2003 Lincoln Town Car Signature Premium. Great shape, low miles, excellent condition. Everything worked perfectly until yesterday! I noticed the battery terminals were corroded so I cleaned them. After I put them back on NOW the drivers side seat controls do not work, the mirror controls do not work, the air suspension light on the dash stays on and the power steering is barely working. I have checked ALL fuses (interior and exterior), checked the connections beneath the seat, the power steering fluid is full. I have disconnected the battery to let the modules reset…still nothing works. Any ideas?
Problems after cleaning battery terminals
Like you said, it was fine until you touched it. You cleaned the battery terminals which was the right thing to do. I would guess somehow some wiring got touched where it wasn’t supposed to or caused a brittle wire to break. But lets look at the wiring diagrams (provided below)of each circuit and see if we can find a connection.
Taking a quick look I can see the power mirrors and drivers power seat both share the same GROUND connection, G207. And looking at the electronic suspension and electronic power steering I can see they share the same TWO FUSES, number 8 and 10. You might want to double check those fuses not only to see if they are good, but that they have power going to them. Then check the ground connections for the rest. If the corrosion was bad enough, there might be some additional corrosion in the battery cables themselves. If so, replacing the cables would be the next move.
mirror fuses 18, 30 ground G207
seat fuse 108 ground G207
electronic suspension fuses 8,10,114 and Electronic power steering connected from Air Suspension Module Pin 26 (LT GRN/BLK wire)- grounds G102 and G405
electronic power steering fuses 8, 10 ground G201
(DIAGRAMS BEST VIEWED IN GOOGLE CHROME OR FIREFOX)
Power Mirrors with electronic day/night mirror wiring diagram
All trim panels
1.Pull outward and remove the sail panel. •If equipped, disconnect the electrical connector.
2.Remove the front door inside handle assembly bolt cover.
3.Remove the front door inside door handle assembly bolt. •To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
4.Remove the front door trim panel center bolt. •To install, tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
5.Remove the trim panel grommet and remove the front door trim panel rear screw. •To install, tighten to 1 Nm (9 lb-in).
6.Remove the front door trim panel lower screws.
7. NOTICE: Avoid pulling directly on the upper rear corner (vinyl portion) of the door trim panel during removal to prevent damage to the door trim panel.
Remove the front door trim panel. •Pull the front door trim panel outward to release the retaining clips.
•Disconnect the inside door handle cable.
•If equipped, disconnect the electrical connectors.
Window garnish moulding
8.Remove the window garnish moulding screw.
9.Remove the window garnish moulding.
All trim panels
10. NOTICE: To avoid damage to the door trim panel, remove any retaining clips from the body and attach them to the door trim panel.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Something keeps draining my battery. Also the rear wiper comes on every now and then without being turned on. If you suspect I need a rear wiper motor, can you tell me where to find a diagram and instructions.
Wipers And Washers—Rear Window
The rear window wiper and washer system consists of the following:
I HAVE A HARD SHIMMY IN RIGHT FRONT WHEN I HIT A CHUGHOLE AT 65 OR MORE MPH
About the only thing to do would be to inspect it. Put the front end up on jack stands and start looking. Look for loose mountings and or play in the joints.
Most common if it was not there until you hit the chughole would be a busted belt in the tire. You can rotate the tire tot he back and see if it changes. Replacing the tire would be the correct measure to take.