My car overheats within 5 miles off driving under 30 mph haven’t been able to see if fan is turning. My hydraulic fan reservoir had a creamy white substance in it. It kind of looked like paint. Had a yellowish white tinge to it. There’s a steam being released near passenger headlight/under upper radiator hose close to the ground…any ideas? I have a 2001 Lincoln ls
I’m just going to identify the issue as a busted radiator.
The transmission fluid is cooled inside the radiator as well as the coolant. When a radiator busts internally it allows transmission fluid into the coolant. No need to worry about coolant getting into the transmission as the pressure is greater in the transmission. But since the coolant now has trans. fluid in it the color will turn creamy as you also described.
When your engine overheats with in 5 miles from the house you’d better turn around and park it. Take notice of any liquid trails on the ground from where you just drove. pay particular attention to where it was parked when you left. The first place to check is the coolant reservoir, which you did and that helps to tell the story of what happened. In most cases the coolant tank would just be empty and you could just look for the leak, repair it and top off the coolant level. But when things decided to head south under the hood and the radiator overheats beyond its abilities to function….. or more likely you ran over something and didn’t know it…. and the radiator busts open. Sometimes when she overheats like that you need to flush the entire cooling system to get all the contaminates out. Make sure to replace the thermostat at the same time so you save money by not using twice as much coolant.
#3 spark plug blew out of engine block as if threads stripped. How do I perform the spark plug hole repair to get a spark plug back into hole securely?
You will need a spark plug hole repair kit. The kit needs to be specifically designed to work with deep hole aluminum heads. After doing a little research, I picked this one because it was the cheapest one that had all of the proper extensions. I have left you with some useful tips below to keep in mind when repairing the spark plug hole.
Spark Plug Hole Repair Kit
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Replaces stripped spark plug threads on aluminum heads with 14 millimeter spark plugs
Installs a new spark plug thread insert in original thread location
Repairs original spark plug hole
A couple of spark plug hole repair tips, I would like to pass on:
1) This kit is not supposed to work on Triton engines with double overhead valves. Check your engine.
2) While everyone says to use grease on the tap to catch the aluminum shavings, I used Vaseline because I didn’t have any grease, it worked just as well, is less messy, and is more transparent (I like to be able to see what’s coming out).
3) If working on a Ford, don’t forget to order a new ignition coil and spark plug for that cylinder because the old ones have obviously been destroyed. You will also need to pick up some high temp tread locker for the new insert.
4) Before tapping, I made sure the piston wasn’t at the top of the cylinder (I don’t know if it would have mattered, but just to be safe). I made one long drinking straw out of two and poked it down the hole to get an idea of where the piston was.
5) Before starting, get one of those telescoping magnetic pick-up tools. You can easily remove the old spark plug and anything else from the deep hole while you’re working… it’s a headache saver.
6) As someone else mentioned, after you tap the engine cylinder head spark plug hole, crank it for a second to blow out any little pieces of trash / shavings that may have fallen into the cylinder. I did this so I wouldn’t have to rig up a Shop Vac with a little tube.
7) I wasn’t able to use the wedging tool to lock in the insert better because I had no swinging room for my hammer. I don’t think this will be an issue. Someone even suggested that it might be best not to since we are dealing with an aluminum head.
2003 Lincoln Town car. Stopped at a gas station on a cold morning, left car running with heater on, got back in car and dash read running hot. Drove home slowly, car did not want to accelerate properly. Got home and parked it, no smell of antifreeze, etc… associated with a car running hot. Week later changed thermostat, gauge immediately read hot. Weeks later, changed temp sending unit with same results. No possible way car is running hot that fast, drove it around block seemed fine until it beeps telling car is running hot, then it acts like it wants to shut down or not accelerate. What could it be?
Is there a chip governor or ecu program governor on a 5.0? Should I disable it? If so how? The vehicles got 72,000 original miles and is a clean title? Also, will that governor kill my transmission faster?
I recently had the outer tie rod ends replaced, and the front brakes done, pads & rotors. After I left the shop I drove about 7 – 10 miles away. And I noticed an odd burning smell, which I knew wasn’t oil, but I didn’t know what it was. I drove back to the shop, the smell now much worse and smoke coming from the left front corner panel area. A tech came out and said “you have a frozen caliper.” I said how can this be? You folks just installed new front brakes. How could you miss a frozen caliper? So, I waited 2 – 3 more hours while they did “something” at no charge. Anyway 2 more visits at no charge and on the last one the invoice said could not duplicate problem. No charge I go home. A day later it happens again. I take it back they keep it, the next day they tell me it’s holes in the brakeline causing the prob. They replace (I think) the bakelines for $100.00 instead of $175.00 Now it works fine. Will holes in brakeline cause caliper to freeze?