My son replaced his radio yesterday and now the jeep will not crank. He has tested the battery, alternator, and starter. He has also checked the spark plugs. He replaced the ignition switch and the jeep seems like its trying to crank but it is not turning over. He is thinking this may be related to something electrical.
He, your son, is most likely correct in thinking it is something electrical. It worked just fine before it was worked on. So most likely a fuse was blown or a wire shorted during the installation of said radio. Checking all the fuses is a safe place to start. Then move on to double checking all the work done during the radio replacement.
I have a 2003 liberty engine. I was wondering if there will be any setbacks, problems, or augmentations I will have to make to have it fit into my 2002 liberty.
As long as the engine size is the same(2.5L, etc) there should be no issues whatsoever.
My A/C blower motor stopped working. I removed it and checked voltage at the plug, 12.4vdc. When I plug it back in, it starts momentarily, but stops. It’s a nonreturnable part based on its electrical nature, so I want to be sure this is the problem.
Use a different source of power when testing the blower motor. I use a Power Probe when doing this in the shop. It allows you to apply power at a push if a button. If you do not have one you can use jumper wires from the battery also. If you find your blower motor is functioning just fine with a separate power source, check your blower motor resistor next.
Power Probe III – Automotive Circuit Tester
Blower Motor Replacement
Blower Motor
Item
Part Number
Description
1
W701696
Vacuum reservoir screw
2
19A566
Vacuum reservoir
3
—
Blower motor electrical connector (part of 14401)
4
W701696
Blower motor screw (3 required)
5
19805
Blower motor
Removal and Installation
Remove the vacuum reservoir screw.
Position the vacuum reservoir aside.
Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
Remove the 3 blower motor screws.
Remove the blower motor.
Remove the blower motor wheel from the blower motor.
heat blows on the passenger side, cold air out of the vents on driver side when a/cis on. Sometimes works properly for a short time on trips to Atlanta from Jackson, MS. I can hear a screeching sound sometimes when turned on. No thumping though as I’ve seen in the u-tube videos. This is going on the last 1-2 years. Has 140,000 on the mileage. The noise is coming from behind the center console I think. Is there a right and separate left blend door mechanism? or just one? Does this mean the the right door actuator needs to be replaced? Or, the actual door? Or, both?
There are two separate temperature blend doors. one for the drivers side and on for the passenger side.
Temperature Blend Door Actuator — RH, EATC
Item
Part Number
Description
1
—
RH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector (part of 14401)
2
W701696
RH temperature blend door actuator screw (3 required)
3
19E616
RH temperature blend door actuator
Removal and Installation
Remove the RH floor console finish panel.
Lower the glove compartment.
Disconnect the RH temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.
Remove the 3 RH temperature blend door actuator screws.
My question has to do with a/c clutch on the compressor. it fell off. AC Clutch Inspection shows bolt holding the clutch in place broke off with some of it lodged in the compressor. It had to break off for a reason. Is the compressor shaft stuck so that it won’t turn. or just a bad bolt?
AC Compressor Clutch Failure
In most cases the air conditioning systems AC clutch failure is caused from bearing failure. When the bearings start to fail it creates excessive heat. The excessive heat may damage other parts of the compressor. This can cause internal o-rings to become damaged as well. My automotive advice is to replace the entire compressor assembly.
My 1994 Ford Explorer started getting a little hard to start about a week ago sometimes. Usually after it has been running for awhile. It did not overheat. But this morning it wouldn’t start at all, it turns over good but acts like it’s out of gas, but it’s not. I let it sit a few hours and it started but then wouldn’t start again after I let it run a few minutes. It is getting air but don’t know about fuel or spark.
Sounds like you are are the right track with your diagnostics. Here is a no start diagnostic chart that may help you with issue.
I have a service stabilitrak and service traction control on on board warnings….Also some loss of power and the check engine light blinks from time to time.
Service StabiliTrak
If your vehicle has Electronic Stability Control (ESC), this message displays if there has been a problem detected with ESC. The ESC/TCS light also appears on the instrument panel cluster.
If this message turns on while you are driving, pull off the road as soon as possible and stop carefully. Try resetting the system by turning the ignition off and then back on. If this message still stays on or turns back on again while you are driving, your vehicle needs service. Have the system inspected by your dealer/retailer as soon as possible.
Electronic Stability Control Indicator Light
This light comes on briefly while the engine is started. If it does not, have the vehicle serviced by your dealer/retailer. If the system is working normally the indicator light will then go off.
This light can come on after the vehicle is first driven and the STABILITRAK NOT READY message appears in the Driver Information Center (DIC).
If the light stays on, or comes on while driving a SERVICE STABILITRAK message appears in the DIC. This indicates that there may be a problem with the Electronic Stability Control (ESC) system and the vehicle may need service. When this warning light is on and the SERVICE STABILITRAK message appears on the DIC, the ESC system does not assist in controlling the vehicle.
When the system is active, the light flashes while the system is assisting in controlling the vehicle.
I’m trying to start it after it has been sitting for 2 years. I tried to jump-start but starter doesn’t operate. I will check engine crankshaft rotation w/ plugs removed & replace the battery. Is there a way to test the starter without removing it? Where is the neutral cutout switch on this pickup?
Make sure your battery is GOOD and fully charged before testing. The neutral switch is located on the side of the transmission.With the vehicle being so old it may be necessary to check and clean the electrical connections.
My wipers, turn signal and dash gauges went out. First I checked all fuses which were ok . And then changed the multi-functional switch, still with no results. I also noticed that when I turn the key to auxiliary I do not hear the door chime alarm. The truck still starts up and runs. What can be the problem?
Wipers and turn signals stopped working
Only 2 things I see in common would be the Ground connection at Location G106. Check that first. And the “Front Control Module”.
Heater and Air Conditioning blower doesn’t work.
Causes, and location of blower motor?
Manual Heating and Air Conditioning
If the blower motor only comes on in High speed, replace the blower motor resistor. If the blower motor doesn’t work at all, you will need to replace the blower motor and possibly the resistor also.
Automatic Climate Control
If the blower motor only comes on in High speed, replace the blower motor controller.
Blower motor location
Under the passenger side dash. Access from inside the cab.
Blower Motor Replacement
If equipped, remove the sound insulator panel.
Remove the blower motor insulating cover screws.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor.
Remove the blower motor insulating cover.
Pull the retaining tab down while turning the blowermotor counterclockwise in order to disengage the blowermotor from the heater/ventilation module.
