This car runs perfect going steady down the road-when climbing hills it wants to stutter.
First thing to do would be to scan for check engine light codes. These codes will help guide you in the right direction. The codes will also help keep you from replacing parts that don’t need to be. My guess would be an engine misfire. But the nice thing about the codes is you will not need to guess.
I need assistance finding where a positive cable on the wiring harness connects to.
One positive battery cable connects from the battery to the starter relay and the other to the starter motor. Of course if you have two batteries there is one that connects the two. See diagram below.
There are positive cables that come from the starter relay. They connect to the alternator and the fuse box. These cables contain fusible links. See diagram below.
Was running, will not start now. I charged battery and it turns over then makes a noise at starter. When I try again and same thing. I tried 3 times same thing no start. I can’t describe the sound. Any ideas?
My guess would be a faulty battery. But your in luck. we have developed a step by step diagnostic chart for just this occasion. This way we don’t have to guess.
When car is warmed up and turned off for about 10 minutes, it will not start back up. I have to wait for about 30 min before it will start again. It will crank just no start. I have a new starter, cam and crank position sensors. Engine coolant temp sensor good. Vehicle has spark, and fuel pressure but I don’t know exactly how much pressure because I don’t have the right gauge. I hear the fuel pump prime as well and fuel filter is integrated with pump. I bought a new purge solenoid too thinking it might have been excess vapor. No idea where to go from here.
We have developed a step by step chart for just this occasion. Remember, having fuel pressure great but if your fuel injectors are not firing you are still not getting gas. A quick test would be to try spraying some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it wants to run.
I have a severe shimmy / shake that starts once I hit 60 MPH and continues till around 70 MPH. I bought this truck used with 65,000 miles on it and what appeared to be new tires. The dealership changed the tracing bar and the dual stabilizer bar and re-balanced the tires and rotated the tires also trying to fix/find the issue. The issue only seemed different before these above fixes but now appears more different , severe and worse?
The issues at first were noticed at 35 or 40 MPH crossing a rough R/R Track that near about shook me off the side of the road and then settled down but really didn’t shimmy or shake to much at a high rate of speed , this was referenced as ‘ A DEATH WOBBLE ‘. Since the above fixes , the truck don’t shimmy or shake crossing the rough R/R track at 35 or 40 anymore but now shimmy’s and shakes severely once speeds of 60 to 70 MPH are reached. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
Generally if a vibration comes on at a certain speed and then calms down at a higher rate of speed it is caused by a tire issue. Usually the tire issue is due to balancing. Sometimes what is called a flat spot will also cause this issue.
A good way to narrow this down is to first test drive and note any vibration. Is it more dominate in the front or steering wheel than it is in the rear or seat. Once noted, rotate both front tires to the back and test drive again. Note if the vibration has followed the tires. If it is now worse feeling in the steering wheel then you can start by re-balancing. Or in most cases replacing the front tires.
More than likely all the problems that were present caused extensive damage to the tires. Now that the repairs are made the only thing left to do would be to replace the tires.
My Suburbans right rear door will not lock manually or with power. I had to replace the inside handle/lock assembly because the lever had fallen inside the door. I can lock by vice grips on the lock rod. I can unlock manually with inside lever but it feels like it’s in a bind when locking with vice grips, it’s easy unlocking but stiff locking.
If it feels like something is binding then it most likely is. You will need to take it back apart and determine the cause. Disconnect the rod and see if the lock mechanism can now be moved easily in both directions. If you find the lock can now lock and unlock without the rod connected, work from there until you determine the cause. May be rust or an improper installation or even something dropped inside.
I have just bought a Nissan Micra 2005 and have noticed that it’s really hard to shift gear and the engine makes a struggling noise when I press the clutch down while in neutral or gear. Luckily, I have 3 months warranty and will be taking it back to be fixed. I’d like to know what’s most likely to be the cause of this problem please, and if the fix job could easily be masked to make the car run longer?
The most common fix would be to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders. Also replacing the clutch, clutch pressure plate and release bearing.
I have a 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5 4 – I replaced the pre-cat with a header because I heard that they would break apart and ruin the engine. However, now the engine light keeps coming on. Will an O2 sensor simulator fix the issue. I have tried to put a spacer on the header, but that did not help. I am told there are 2 o2 sensors, but only find 1. Thanks for any help!!
Replacing the exhaust manifold with a header is generally done for performance reasons (note* the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter are one assembly). There is nothing that would break apart and enter the engine as far as the catalytic converter is concerned. This is because it is mounted out the output side of the engine cylinder head.
The original setup includes two oxygen sensors. One before the catalytic converter and one after. The Oxygen sensor that is mounted before the (upstream)converter is used to determine air/fuel mixture. The O2 sensor mounted after the converter(downstream) is used to determine the efficiency of the converter. So if the simulator you are proposing to use is to fake out the downstream sensor, then yes it should take care of the check engine light issue.
Had a vibration in left front wheel. It was loose lug nuts. Fixed that. Vibration/knocking has returned. Only happens when I let off accelerator, but goes away if I brake. Also after turning left the steering wheel slightly catches when turning back to the right. Going to try to fix at home as funds are tight. Just not sure where to start.
First of all it might be good to note what might have caused the front lug nuts to come loose. Second, what might have been under stress while driving it around with the vibration. From what you have stated and knowing the common causes for this issue I would start by looking at the front hub bearings. If it turns out there is play in the bearing it will need to be replaced. This requires removal of the entire steering knuckle and having the hub and bearings removed and installed with a press.
First of all, the battery light on. Just replaced alternator and battery. Checked with voltmeter at battery, fuse box and directly at alternator says 11.2 even with blower on high. Is this enough? I’m in Michigan and at 1 degree right now is that normal? Or is the alternator still bad?
The battery light being on indicates the battery is not being charged. Therefore this can be from a bad or faulty alternator. It can also be from a bad or faulty battery. And may also be from a bad connection between the two. You should see more than 12.5 volts.
First of all, I would start by checking the fuses in the circuit. The most likely fuse to be blown would be the Main Mult-Fuse #22 (120 AMP). Seems like this is the first to blow when the battery is jumped or cables touch when changing the battery. There are two other fuses, fuse#18 and #21. Consequently I would almost put money on FUSE #22 which is located in the UNDER-HOOD FUSE/RELAY BOX. Other than that, you would want to make certain all cables are connected correctly and free of corrosion.