My car is dead. I put in new battery and it is still dead. What to check?
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The blower motor stopped working. I’ve replaced the resister and it’s still not working any suggestions? It is a 2001 Chevy Impala 3.8 series 2.
The fuses are located in the inside fuse panel. You may use the wiring diagram to gain a better idea of how the circuit works.
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I just bought a used motor w/137K miles from a junk yard to install in my 99 Tahoe. I was about ready to drop it in when I notice the timing has been advanced 1/4 to 3/8’s of an inch. Does this probably mean what I think it means? The timing chain has probably jumped a tooth and needs to be replaced before I drop the motor in?
The engine timing is not adjustable. The cam retard offset will not be accurate below 1,000 rpm. What this means is, you cannot check the actual timing without it running. If you are just looking at the timing chain gears and they do not line up dot to dot, then inspect the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets for:
The engine was re-done and the following problems are experienced:
First thing that will need to be done is to have the check engine light codes read. Then you can post the codes below in the comments. The car starting in drive may just be a misaligned neutral safety switch. As for the black smoke and excessive fuel consumption, they are both related and probably caused by a faulty sensor. Having the codes will save from just throwing parts at it. The same for no power when driving.
My car was in the garage when Irma hit. There was 4 feet of water in my house and etc. Now my lights come on by them selves and locks by them selves etc
The only thing you can do is to disconnect the battery and try to dry everything out. It will need to be put in a closed room and a dehumidifier run with the temperature above 80 degrees. It may take a week or two or even longer to get everything to dry out. Moisture and electronics don’t mix. Then you will need to check all fluid to make sure they are not overfilled and or contaminated, including the fuel tank.
In most cases this car will be covered under insurance. Contact them first if you wish to file a claim.
It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. Then I tried erasing the code but unable to do it as it comes right back on. I unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat, and then ofcourse U1900 came which says SRS module fault, but then I was able to erase the B2290 code, and not U1900. I also took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools, and they said recalibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue, they tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself, and need to be replaced.
Its an expensive part $180, I don’t want to just replace it, if its really not required. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part.
It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. I tried erasing the code, but unable to do it as it comes right back on. Then unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat. And then of course U1900 came which says SRS module fault but I was able to erase the B2290 code and not U1900.
Then I took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools and they said re-calibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue. They tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself and need to be replaced. Of course they didn’t allow me to watch the process they are doing so I don’t have full details on what all they did.
I inquired with dealership over phone about it and as per them following spec. It needs to replace all 4 sensors underneath the seat including rail sensors and all. So I can’t even locate those 4 sensors they talked about at fordparts.com with my car details. I also couldn’t locate those many plugs & sensors underneath the passenger seat in my car. So I am not sure how much to trust that information.
Its an expensive part $180. I don’t want to just replace it if its really not required. And thus may not fix the problem. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part. And if there is a way to test if the sensor is really bad by jumping/shorting the wires, resistance test etc. etc.
Occupant Classification System Fault which is the weight sensor in the passenger front seat. The weight sensor may need to be reset with a Ford diagnostic computer if the seat was replaced.
If you swapped the entire seat the new sensor needs calibrated.
Ford states that whole bottom part of the seat has to be replaced with module+sensor factory installed for it to work. So replacing only bladder or module wont work.
I have a 2011 Hyundai i20 active 2dr 1.4 manual shift. Just wondering if anyone has encountered something similar with any of their cars. When I put the key in the ignition nothing happens. The gauge cluster doesn’t turn on. Nor does the radio, ac controls or power through the USB port or 12v port. However the door open light comes up on the dash. And the park lights come on when you turn the lights on.
The central locking still works as does the alarm (horn beeps) however using the horn wont make it beep. I’ve checked the fuses and they are fine. I initially thought it was a blown relay as my dad pulled the ecu relay and flicked it, plugged it back in and off I went. Then this morning when I put the key in after dropping my daughter off at daycare it did the same thing again. Also does anyone know where to find a wiring diagram for the relays so I can try finding an aftermarket part.
My guess would be a faulty ignition switch since nothing turns on except the stuff that would come on with out the key present such as the headlights.
I put it in the shop for them to fix problem. It came back running worse. Turns out they took out the proair 800 and bypassed it so coolant was circulating but not enough since I was still overheating. I redid everything they did and it runs better. I put in some radiator sealant and that sealed a few things I didn’t want it to. Mainly the overflow which helped keep running just a little longer. I fixed that but it still keeping it running a bit longer.
I noticed when I did the by pass in the back that there isn’t a really marked as to which hose to which so I may have that wrong plus the wiring that I plugged back together there is one I couldn’t find. And two that plugged into fuses back there didn’t say which fuse they went too.
I have since developed a leak in radiator and it overheats. Other than that the van runs great. Way better than before but I can’t afford another radiator or even coolant at this point but before when proair 800 was still bypassed I had heat. When I rerouted the lines in back is when all the cold air just stayed on. Feels like air conditioning is stuck. But I do get warm air right when it starts getting really hot please give me the very best guess possible is it the wire I didn’t plug in. Are the two hoses reversed? Or is it just that I need a new radiator. I live in Alaska and heat is crucial.
Best guess is there is an air pocket in the system. And it will be almost impossible to for the system to work if it has a leak. You need the cooling system to be leak free. Needs to be completely filled with 50/50 mix of coolant/water and bled of no air. Straight coolant or straight water will cause it to overheat even in perfectly functioning cooling systems.
Another thought I had was if both heater hoses are hot, and it is blowing cold it may be that the vacuum hoses didn’t get hook back up right on the back of the control head. If there is a vacuum leak the mode door actuator won’t work correctly.
I have a manual transmission on my SAAB. The shifter was disconnected to put in a new ignition switch. But transmission was not locked in 4th gear when linkage clamp was loosed. How do I get the car back into 4th with the linkage disconnected?
Reconnect the linkage and move the shifter. Sounds vague but it is what is required.
My car stopped starting last week. The battery is less than 4 months old. I can jump the car and it will run indefinitely with no power problems. Whenever I turn off the engine it will not start back up. It makes a clicking noise as long as I keep the key turned. I took the car to Autozone and they checked the battery, starter and alternator. They said the alternator was bad. I replaced the alternator, but the car still will not start without a jump. Took the car back to Autozone and they again said it was the alternator. I checked the wiring(except at the starter because it is hard to get to), replaced the terminals on the wiring to the battery. Checked the ground wire. Nothing I have done seems to solve the problem. It just clicks when I try and start it.
Replace the BATTERY! It doesn’t matter how old it is, if its bad, its bad. The clicking noise is the tip off.
