What is the sensor that is in the middle top of the timing cover it broke off replacing timing chain now I need to get it out and replace it.
VTC oil control solenoid valve(A) location diagram.
VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve Removal
Disconnect the VTC oil control solenoid valve 2P connector (A).
Remove the bolt (B) and the VTC oil control solenoid valve (C).
Check the VTC oil control solenoid valve strainer for clogging. If the strainer is clogged, replace the VTC oil control solenoid valve.
Finally, note the amount of valve opening by observing the position of the piston shoulder (A) through the valve retard drain port. If you see the shoulder of the piston, the valve is open and must be replaced.
My Suburban wasn’t starting so I changed the Distributor and Rotor. It started but it runs at 4,000 RPM’s. I put a code scanner on it and got a P0102 code so I used Mass Air Flow Cleaner on it and tried again. Same thing, 4,000 RPM’s but no codes this time. Can you give me an answer because I’m stumped! I looked at the throttle spring and it seems to snap back OK, please help. It is a 1996 GMC Suburban 4×4 4 door Automatic with a 5.7 liter engine.
The engine running with a high idle is a classic description of a vacuum leak.
Chevy Code P0102
Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Low Input
Sensor or solenoid faulty
Connector terminal contact is damaged or corroded
Wire harness – Check harness for correct voltage, open, short to ground or short to voltage
Update control unit software – Check for the latest control unit update
Hi, I have 2002 Acura MDX Touring and randomly when turning off the ignition, no power to anything. No power locks, radio or power windows. Key fob does not even work. Usually I have to wait 30 secs to a minute or more before suddenly all power comes back. Its like something cuts out and resets itself. Any ideas?
No power to anything
There is one thing in common with all the electronic components you mentioned. The battery. Not saying the battery is bad. However the connections may be loose or corroded. This is where I would start. This would also explain why you only have the issue once the engine is turned off. When the engine is running the alternator is able to supply power to those components.
my van starts and drives but going through the gears when you reach exactly 40mph it wont accelerate properly but if yu floor it in third and it reaches 52 it takes off like a rocket and no more problem till you drop below 52 and then its sluggish again
Wont accelerate properly
Hard to say what the issue is. If the check engine light is on you can scan the codes. The codes will help guide us toward the cause of the problem. You may want to try filling the tank at a different fuel station next trip. Could be contaminated fuel. Another possibility would be a misfire. If it has been a while since it was tuned up, you may want to start there.
The engine cuts out while driving. It has done this several times at speeds ranging from 30mph to 50mph. The car usually starts straight away but recently has taken several attempts to restart. A fault finding diagnostic has recorded no faults. What could be the problem?
Clogged fuel filter
I recommend trying a different fuel station on your next fill up. Continue to drive until fault code appears.
Disconnect the plug wires at the rubber boot. DO NOT pull on the wires.
NOTICE: Pulling on or bending the cords may damage the conductor inside.
2. REMOVE SPARK PLUGS Using 16 mm plug wrench, remove the spark plugs.
3. CLEAN SPARK PLUGS Using a spark plug cleaner or wire brush, clean the spark plug.
4. VISUALLY INSPECT SPARK PLUGS Check the spark plug for electrode wear, threads damage and insulator damage. If abnormal, replace the plugs. Recommended spark plugs: NDK16R–U or NGK BKR5EYA $9.76 for 4 pack
5. ADJUST ELECTRODE GAP Carefully bend the outer electrode to obtain the correct electrode gap. Correct electrode gap: 0.8 mm (0.031 in.)
6. INSTALL SPARK PLUGS Using 16 mm plug wrench, install the spark plug.Torque: 18 N–m (180 kgf–cm, 13 ft–Ibf)
7. RECONNECT Plug wires TO SPARK PLUGS
How to replace spark plugs Video – 1993 Toyota Corolla
I need a bulb put in the right front head light I was told. Will replacing this bulb, also work low and high beam? I was also told it is a little difficult to replace this bulb. Can you tell me how much the bulb should be and how much should the total cost to replace this bulb?
Replace headlight bulb
High beam and low beam headlight bulbs are separate. Labor time is 0.8 – 1 hour to replace headlight bulb. So you are looking at around $200 for parts, labor and tax.
The headlamp relay receives battery positive voltage directly from the battery. The BCM supplies a ground signal to the headlamp relay for normal headlight operation. The BCM also supplies voltage to the beam select relay coil for high beam headlight operation. When the driver places the headlamp switch in the ON position and the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the headlamp relay supplies current flow through the left and right low beam headlamp fuses to both low and high beam headlamps. Both low beam headlights are grounded through the beam select relay. When activated, the dimmer switch sends a ground signal to the BCM in the high beam position and a momentary ground signal in the flash-to-pass (FTP) position. The BCM then energizes the beam select relay which switches the headlamp grounds from the low beam headlight bulbs to the high beam headlight bulbs illuminating the high beam headlights. With the headlights in the low beam position, the high beams may be momentarily turned ON or flashed by activating the FTP portion of the switch.
When To Change The HID Bulb
Bulb failure, end of life occurs when the bulb gets old and becomes unstable. The bulb may begin shutting itself off sporadically and unpredictably at first, perhaps only once during a 24-hour period. When the bulb begins shutting itself off occasionally, the ballast will automatically turn the bulb back on again within 0.5 seconds. The ballast will re-strike the bulb so quickly that the bulb may not appear to have shut off. As the bulb ages, the bulb may begin to shut off more frequently, eventually over 30 times per minute. When the bulb begins to shut off more frequently, the ballast receives excessive, repetitive current input . Repetitive and excessive restarts or re-strikes, without time for the ballast to cool down, will permanently damage the ballast. As a safeguard, when repetitive re-strikes are detected, the ballast will not attempt to re-strike the lamp. The ballast then shuts down and the bulb goes out.
The following symptoms are noticeable signs of bulb failure:
Flickering light, caused in the early stages of bulb failure.
Lights go out, caused when the ballast detects excessive, repetitive bulb re-strike.
Color change—The lamp may change to a dim pink glow.
Input power to the ballast must be terminated in order to reset the ballast’s fault circuitry. In order to terminate the input power to the ballast, turn the lights off and back on again. Turning the lights off and back on again resets all of the fault circuitry within the ballast until the next occurrence of excessive, repetitive bulb re-strikes. When excessive, repetitive bulb re-strikes occur, replace the starter/arc tube assembly. The ballast will begin the start-up process when the starter/arc tube assembly is replaced. Repeatedly resetting the input power can overheat the internal components and cause permanent damage to the ballast. Allow a few minutes of cool-down time in between reset attempts.
Bulb failures are often sporadic at first, and difficult to repeat. Technicians can identify bulb failure by observing if the problem gets progressively worse over the next 100 hours of operation.
White light has a different color rating than regular headlamps. The range of white light that is acceptable is broad when compared to halogens. Therefore, some variation in headlight coloring between the right and left headlamp will be normal. One high intensity discharge (HID) at the end of the normal range may appear considerably different in color from one at the other end of the range. Difference in color is normal. Replace the arc tube only if the arc tube is determined to be at the bulb failure stage.
I bought this car used. In less than a week, it started popping out of 3rd gear and making awful grinding noises from the transmission. Replaced the transmission.
Now, the fog lamps will not turn off (pulled the fuse), the interior lights will not turn on, the radio will not turn on, and the heater blower will not blow. Also, the power windows will not roll up or down. And the odometer flashes “no fuse” message. Checked for blown fuses and broken wires as best I could but, was unable to find any. It is quite possible that I missed or overlooked some of these. I am not familiar with this vehicle nor am I a mechanic. Please, help if possible. I didn’t pay very much for this car, but I don’t want to just throw away what money I have spent. – John
Electrical wiring problem
Generally when something will not turn off it is caused from a back feed or crossed wiring. Sometimes this can be from a sticking relay or damaged wiring. Other times a faulty switch or connecting the wiring harness wrong. Isolating each circuit should help narrow down the issue.
If I had to guess, I would think a power wire connection coming from or going to the fuse block. Most likely happened during transmission replacement. Double check your connections and wiring harness. Most of the fuses should be hot at all times. This means you should see battery voltage on both sides of the fuse.