Changed my oil Wednesday and transmission. Car was running not that great before hand. Filled up oil with 10w30 synthetic and added a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer. (I always use to add 10w30). Filled transmission with DEX3 5 quarts. (Over filled it by a quart) ever since I changed fluids when I start the car it makes a ticking noise. Once it warms up it gets lower.
So, one day I went to check my oil and coolant and they were both low. So I used a different car to go get the products to top them up, using both permite (that’s what last owner used) but I wasn’t sure what oil they used. There was 5-30 but there was also 5-40 which recommended using if i was putting 5-30 in it. So I put the 5-40 one in anyways that’s not the point of the story.
The point is afterwards I went to the petrol station to get some fuel and as I was stopped at the lights on my way out white smoke just came out of my exhaust. As soon as the light turned green I took off and parked to see what was going on, and it stopped? But now every time I drive my car and stop at a red light or something it smokes. At first not so much but as I’m sitting there idling it gets worse. It does stop after I’ve stopped like 4 times (for example on my way back from the shops I stopped my car in the driveway to see the smoke and it didn’t smoke at all…its soo weird, suggestions?
RESPONSE
White smoke is an indication of a engine coolant being burned in the engine. This can be caused by a blown head gasket or leaking intake manifold gasket.
Blue smoke is created by the vehicles engine oil entering a cylinder and being burned along with the Air/Fuel mixture. A small amount of oil leaking into a cylinder will create blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more often and issue in older or higher mileage vehicles.
Sometimes using a thicker oil can help, but in most cases replacing the failed gaskets and seals is the best way to insure the issue is fixed.
Vehicles before 1996 will sometimes emit black exhaust smoke during the first start up of the day, this is normal as long as it clears up once warm. On vehicles built after 1996 , Black exhaust smoke is not normal. This is an indication that the engine is not burning the fuel efficiently and or the fuel injection system is trying to force to much fuel through the engine.
Possible causes range from a failed O2 Sensor, Injector Stuck open, or failing MAF Sensor. Some times a simple tune up is all that is needed.
Can I put some kind of brake fluid sealer to stop it from leaking?
RESPONSE
My response is NO. The brake system utilizes extreme pressures to operate. The brake fluid leak needs to be properly repaired in order for the system to function correctly. The basic principle of a brake system is the free movement of fluid through the brake lines. Any kind of brake fluid sealer would ruin the entire system and cause more damage.
First of all park on a flat clean surface or place clean cardboard under the vehicle.Top off the brake fluid reservoir. Pump the brake pedal a few times while someone looks under the car. Hence you may notice a hissing noise. This is the fluid escaping. Look on the ground and note a puddle. If none are found maybe look at the insides of your tires. Finally this will give you an idea of the location of the leak. In conclusion brake fluid leaks are generally affordable to fix.
My Subaru’s turbo is only active in colder weather. I live in Southern Africa where it rarely gets very cold. This car has been imported from Japan. The highest octane fuel we can get here is 95 octane. Can anybody help me with some idea where to start looking for the problem?
RESPONSE
No Recalls or Technical Service Bulletins were found when searching for Turbo related issues.
That is odd since the turbo works off the exhaust system. The Turbocharger may be going out.
To install:
My car randomly misses and bogs down and at red lights it sometimes revs up and lurches forward when holding the brake down. I have put a new fuel pump and filter, New alternator, plugs and wires, and a new coil. The transmission sometimes shifts hard but has never slipped or anything. The car has 263k miles.
RESPONSE
This sounds like a vacuum leak. Of course if the check engine light is on, the first thing to do would be to pull the engine trouble codes and post them below.
Dealer replaced engine block after 11 months of failed ‘oil consumption tests’.
At my first 1200 mile oil check, the new block is half a quart low.
Should I be concerned again???
RESPONSE
No. But I would definitely keep an eye on it. It is normal for some oil to be consumed or burned during break in as it gives time for the rings to seat properly. A half quart would bring the oil level to the middle of the safe zone on the dipstick when checking your oil level. It is your responsibility to check your oil level often. So do just that, check it often. If you notice continued loss in large amounts, then be concerned.
Per Subaru 1 Qt per 1K is acceptable(2009)
Porsche this is (typically) 1.5lts per 1000kms
Toyota this is (typically) 1.0lts per 1500kms
“acceptable” means: We aren’t fixing anything unless it is worse than that.
In my Subaru Outback I have to remove the tail light fuse each night or it will drain the battery. How can I fix this..
RESPONSE
This is the outcome of a problem with the tail lamp relay which is not unusual for the Subaru Outback. The relay gets stuck, even though the key is out, and allows the battery to power the tail lights and parking lights till eventually the battery discharges completely.
Complaints of check engine light on, cruise control blinking, and no acceleration.
The car tends to loose power and may occur while driving at highway speeds. The most common fix for this would be to replace the pedal assembly including sensors.
I have a Subaru legacy gt wagon 1996 ej20 engine, the car works fine when its warmed up , but if i just turn it on normally it’ll idle very roughly with low revs for like 3-5 seconds then turn off, unless I hold the key turned so it forces the car to stay on and allows the revs to go normally. After Ive held the key for like 20 seconds I can let go of the key and from then on well its warmed up it’ll work fine until Ive left it for a long time again, though on repeat of the holding key in turned on position it’ll work. the starter motor has also very recently been changed and I did take off the IAC and try clean it but couldn’t get the top part off too manually twist the valve when cleaning. also cleaned the maf sensor.
Was riding fine when suddenly the check engine light flashed and it disabled the cruise control. As it was on the highway in early am with no open garages I got to my destination. It drove rough and is now driving smooth but the check engine light is now steady. Ideas and costs?
I have a green looking fluid that is leaking on the drivers side of the car
