cant find any higher output alternators that look like they fit the mount. do they even make them or will i have to have one built?
There doesn’t seem to be a factory fit high performance alternator that will fit the factory mounts. There are a couple options for this. Purchase an Overdrive pulley and see if it takes care of your needed power supply issues. The factory out put is 110 amps. The Overdrive pulley sold by Carid advertises 50% increase.
They also sell a high output performance alternator that claims up to 300% more charging power but no mention of amps. And this may require using a different mounting system or fabricating one.
My rotors, brakes or calipers are making this very high pitched noise but only have some time of driving, with the turn of the wheel, even just a little and after hitting bumps… it stops when i hit the brakes. I have a video of the noise if theres a way to share that
Generally if the noise stops when the brake pedal is applied it means you need to have the brakes serviced. Simple put, you need the brake pads replaced at a minimum. I recommend replacing the rotors at the same time you have the brake pads replaced.
My car smells like its overheating but not steaming. Fans are not coming on. tested it last night and after about 30 min of running and reving it up, it blew a little steam out radiator cap. I am not getting warning lights on the dash at all. I tested all fuses and relays to the fans. could it be thermostat? why would fans not work?
First you may want to use an external infrared thermometer. Aim it at the engine block and check the temperature. This will prove if the engine is overheating or not. If the engine is not warm enough the fan will not come on.
Fans not coming on
The Engine cooling fan is controlled by the ECM. The ECM uses an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor signal to decide when to turn the fan on and off. I the coolant level is low the sensor will not be able to read the correct temperature. So first thing to do would be to check the coolant level. If the coolant level is low, find out why and make the necessary repairs.
Changed my oil Wednesday and transmission. Car was running not that great before hand. Filled up oil with 10w30 synthetic and added a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer. (I always use to add 10w30). Filled transmission with DEX3 5 quarts. (Over filled it by a quart) ever since I changed fluids when I start the car it makes a ticking noise. Once it warms up it gets lower.
So, one day I went to check my oil and coolant and they were both low. So I used a different car to go get the products to top them up, using both permite (that’s what last owner used) but I wasn’t sure what oil they used. There was 5-30 but there was also 5-40 which recommended using if i was putting 5-30 in it. So I put the 5-40 one in anyways that’s not the point of the story.
The point is afterwards I went to the petrol station to get some fuel and as I was stopped at the lights on my way out white smoke just came out of my exhaust. As soon as the light turned green I took off and parked to see what was going on, and it stopped? But now every time I drive my car and stop at a red light or something it smokes. At first not so much but as I’m sitting there idling it gets worse. It does stop after I’ve stopped like 4 times (for example on my way back from the shops I stopped my car in the driveway to see the smoke and it didn’t smoke at all…its soo weird, suggestions?
White smoke is an indication of a engine coolant being burned in the engine. This can be caused by a blown head gasket or leaking intake manifold gasket.
Blue smoke is created by the vehicles engine oil entering a cylinder and being burned along with the Air/Fuel mixture. A small amount of oil leaking into a cylinder will create blue smoke out the tailpipe. Blue smoke is more often and issue in older or higher mileage vehicles.
Sometimes using a thicker oil can help, but in most cases replacing the failed gaskets and seals is the best way to insure the issue is fixed.
Vehicles before 1996 will sometimes emit black exhaust smoke during the first start up of the day, this is normal as long as it clears up once warm. On vehicles built after 1996 , Black exhaust smoke is not normal. This is an indication that the engine is not burning the fuel efficiently and or the fuel injection system is trying to force to much fuel through the engine.
Possible causes range from a failed O2 Sensor, Injector Stuck open, or failing MAF Sensor. Some times a simple tune up is all that is needed.
Can I put some kind of brake fluid sealer to stop it from leaking?
Brake Fluid Sealer
My response is NO. The brake system utilizes extreme pressures to operate. The brake fluid leak needs to be properly repaired in order for the system to function correctly. The basic principle of a brake system is the free movement of fluid through the brake lines. Any kind of brake fluid sealer would ruin the entire system and cause more damage.
How to locate a brake fluid leak
First of all park on a flat clean surface or place clean cardboard under the vehicle.Top off the brake fluid reservoir. Pump the brake pedal a few times while someone looks under the car. Hence you may notice a hissing noise. This is the fluid escaping. Look on the ground and note a puddle. If none are found maybe look at the insides of your tires. Finally this will give you an idea of the location of the leak. In conclusion brake fluid leaks are generally affordable to fix.
My Subaru’s turbo is only active in colder weather. I live in Southern Africa where it rarely gets very cold. This car has been imported from Japan. The highest octane fuel we can get here is 95 octane. Can anybody help me with some idea where to start looking for the problem?
My car randomly misses and bogs down and at red lights it sometimes revs up and lurches forward when holding the brake down. I have put a new fuel pump and filter, New alternator, plugs and wires, and a new coil. The transmission sometimes shifts hard but has never slipped or anything. The car has 263k miles.