I have a Subaru legacy gt wagon 1996 ej20 engine, the car works fine when its warmed up , but if i just turn it on normally it’ll idle very roughly with low revs for like 3-5 seconds then turn off, unless I hold the key turned so it forces the car to stay on and allows the revs to go normally. After Ive held the key for like 20 seconds I can let go of the key and from then on well its warmed up it’ll work fine until Ive left it for a long time again, though on repeat of the holding key in turned on position it’ll work. the starter motor has also very recently been changed and I did take off the IAC and try clean it but couldn’t get the top part off too manually twist the valve when cleaning. also cleaned the maf sensor.
Was riding fine when suddenly the check engine light flashed and it disabled the cruise control. As it was on the highway in early am with no open garages I got to my destination. It drove rough and is now driving smooth but the check engine light is now steady. Ideas and costs?
Description of Problem: Around 40-60mph when hitting accelerator, a high pitched squeaking noise (lasting about 1 second) , mild jerking, and RPM’s spike. Seems to occur when engine is torqued. I only experience these effects when the temperature is cooler. If warm outside no issues.
Vehicle Make (Ford, Toyota etc): Subaru
Vehicle Model (Camry, F150, etc): Legacy 2.5i CVT
Year of Vehicle: 2010
I recently imported a 2002 Subaru Legacy B4 and it came with a blown 100A main fuse. I replaced with a generic fuse but seems like there is a power problem which may be causing injector and cam position sensor throwing a check light for a few seconds when i run an accessories such as power windows. The check light does not stay on but just flickers for a few seconds and disappears The problem is worse at night when i switch on the lights as it causes the accelerator not to respond for a few seconds as the car refuses to take off and then the car takes off with normal power. In the afternoon without the lights it drives fine and is powerful but the problem now is that the fuel consumption is now pretty high. I do not know if it is related but the fog lights also are not working
I have a brand new car battery. One week ago I drove this car for 60 miles. No problem. I went out of town for a week. After coming back when tried to start car, nothing. Not even clicks. AAA guy came. Jump would not work. He told me perhaps my starter is bad. Would starter go out like that? Wouldn’t I get some indication that starter is going? Other strange thing, when I opened my hood after it did not start, I saw that positive terminal on my battery was disconnected and battery tie-down was taken off. Seems like somebody tried to mess with my car but ran away, perhaps because somebody saw them. My question is, do you think it could be starter? Although positive terminal was disconnected, wire was still touching the terminal.
I’m having trouble with figuring out what is wrong with this old girl. I bought her a year ago from a man claiming to be a mechanic, I’ve called him when ever something went wrong. After a few months the darn thing would need to be jumped every so often leaving me stranded. The battery had been tested and was told it was good. Then 3 months ago, my husband stared to accelerate and the power cut completely. Luckily we were right nex t to an autozone. The car would not jump start at all, we had to tow it . We tested the battery, starter and alternates. To them everything was ok, the alternator is worn but was told that it couldn’t be the cause. The battery is from 2012 (was told it was new) but again told it was fine. Now when we try to start her the hear the fuel pump click and and odd buzzing from the block, the gauge for the battery voltage drops to 8 completely draining it. We had to change the distributor for after the ‘mechanic’ took a wrench to pry it off swearing that was the problem. It has new spark plugs, fuel filter, and an oil change on top of it. I’m tired of throwing money at her, and can’t afford a new car. Any help is appreciated.
I am having an issue starting my 2001 Subaru Outback. I have replaced the battery and alternator within the past month, thinking that they were possibly the source of the problem. When I try to start the vehicle I do not hear clicking or any other distinguishable noises.
car wont start did but intermittant and would stall after a few secondsseemed to start on fuel from pump priming ,cleaned tank, flushed lines,now wont fire at all engine check light flashes constantly any ideas
After I start the car and it turns over it makes a clicking sound, I think the clicking is coming from around the belt. My car is running low on oil, could that be the cause?