My Vehicle needed the rear suspension recall, I took it in and had it done, they said an alignment was needed at that time, is that typical for that recall? Also, now that my 2yr free maintenance is over we took to and Ind shop for oil change and tire rotation and they say we need new tires, but mileage shouldn’t warrant new tires, has premature tire wear been reported as a side effect of the rear suspension recall. Recap — have alignments and premature tire wear / replacement been a side effect of the defect. thanks
Car overheated. Had it towed. They had to put in a new water pump (changed the timing and driver belts as well), FIRST, before they could tell if the engine was ok. After a $570 bill, I was told the engine was bad. Cracked block, head? Got different answers. When pressed (asked for it in writing), then they could not tell me EXACTLY what was wrong. DID I NEED TO SPEND $570? TO TELL THE ENGINE WAS SHOT [OR IS IT]? GOT CONFLICTING ADVISE.
There are other ways to determine the condition of the engine, vs. yes, that’s the only way we can do it. Engine light code didn’t provide much help (they said). THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
Just noticed a whining on acceleration under vehical wondering if you diagnose this problem for me
In Summer: Engine starts, idles properly, car drives with no vibration. In Winter: Engine catches then dies. Depress gas peddle slightly first then car starts but idles slowly then after ~15 sec picks up idle speed. Car drives with loud vibrations from engine transmitted thru chassis. After engine warms up and sits with engine off for ~15 minutes, will start and run like its Summer (see above). Depending on outside temperature car will display appropriate degree of this problem. i.e. in cool weather will start first time then display lesser amount of “Winter” characteristics. Coolant and air temperature sensors tested OK.
What would be most likely to cause the engine to hesitate during acceleration when the engine is warm? Carburetor has just been rebuilt.
Car has new battery and will start intermittently. It’s not the alternator. You can drive the car about 1-2 miles and turn it off and it won’t start again. Go back the next day and it starts right up. Now it won’t turnover at all and no lights come on; this is the second new battery in a month. People have told me it could be the terminals, main relay, bad starter, etc. Hoping it will jump off this afternoon to take to a mechanic. At my wit’s end as I just spent $900 putting new spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, new radiator, motor mount, transmission mount and now it starts when it wants to.
found cracks in injector caps on head after replacing bent valves caused from cam belt breaking, will there be a problem? looks as though they have been there a while.
Motor turns over a lot before it will start. Once it is started it runs good until temperature hand strarts moving off of cold and when stop at stop sign it will die. It takes a few minutes to get it to start again but after that it will run all day no problem. Do you have any suggestions? Replaced thermostat,throttle position sensor,all vaccum hoses, plugs wires, cap, rotor button and flushed radiator.
My toyota celica 2001 1.8 VVTI is burning oil there are no leaks? what could be the cause of this?
The 9006/H4 low beam bulb seemingly burned out the other day on my wife’s 2006 Sienna so I pulled the plug off and noticed that some of the brown colored plastic had broken away around one of the connector spades. I tried switching out the good bulb and it also did not work so I now surmise that the connector plug is no longer any good. Is this something I can pick up at the dealer and fix myself?
or must I take it in to a Toyota dealer for repair. Seems like it would be a simple fix.