The beginning of November my 4runner broke down. We changed the alternator. Well ever since my . Extremely fast almost to the point, you can’t even drive around in it for 10 minutes without it blowing again.
The end of Nov. it went dead on me. So we got a new battery. Once the new battery was in we noticed how the lights inside and out would go real dim when I wasn’t on the gas pedal but as soon as I would push the gas it would brighten back up. Also the same with the air(it’s cold so it’s heat atm). Also, when my alternator went out the first time the gauges and the air cut off, the fuse blew but I didn’t know that at the time.
I’m at a loss on what to do anymore with it. I’ve read everything from a short to the ac compressor but I don’t know what could be wrong. My husband has been trying to fix on it and look things up but he also isn’t a mechanic. But he can normally figure out what’s wrong but we are stuck. Please help. I don’t want to get rid of it but if I have to I will.
Gauge fuse keeps blowing
Looking at the wiring diagram in reference to the alternator and gauges I see a DIODE between the IGN fuse and the alternator. If anyone of the wires in the wiring harness are shorted or the diode has failed it may cause this issue. Checking the wiring in the wiring harness would be a good first step.
Unplug the connectors and check for continuity from the blown 10 amp Gauge fuse to ground. Then Isolate the connections and test the wires to each other to find the short.
I have 2007 Camry, it is making knocking sound when I go over 80Kmph(50mph) from the right front side. No sound while turning, only when driving straight at high speed. What could be possible problem?
I would guess an air damn/splash shield or piece of trim has come loose. Damage can occur easily if driven over a parking block, etc. Make sure to check the Right Front Fender Splash Shield and Wheel Opening Extension Pad.
So essentially I would need to know the VE injector pump’s plunger stroke at top dead center for the Toyota 2L-II engine with an Automatic Cold Start Device(ACSD)?
And if I could bother with a rather more elaborate question for clarity.
I’ve only been able to find information on various other L engines and the plunger stroke can vary quite dramatically. I’ve currently had timed it for 0.84mm@TDC(Shoots up to about 1.15mm when the ACSD engages) as this was within the margins for both the 2L(with ACSD) and the 3L according to their respective repair manuals.
However, one source that claims to be for the 2L-II had the plunger stroke as far retarded as between .44mm – .56mm with the ACSD but as high as 0.84mm – 0.96mm without the ACSD.
So my clarifying question would be; How come the ACSD is engaged it seems to time the pump for Hot running in an engine without one?
It appears you have already answered your first question.
With ACSD: 0.44-0.56 mm (0.0173-0.0220 in.)
Without ACSD: 0.84-0.96 mm (0.0331-0.0378 in.)
Lastly your second question might be better answered by an engineer at Toyota.
Toyota 2L-II Engine
The 2L-II is an upgrade of the 2L. The cylinder bore and the piston stroke remains the same. The most significant change is that the camshaft lifts the valve directly via tappet instead of a rocker arm. The valve clearance is adjusted using shims.
The Toyota 2L produced from 76 PS (56 kW; 75 HP) at 4,000 rpm to 90 PS (66 kW; 88 HP) at 4,200 rpm of maximum horsepower and from 155 N·m (15.8 kg·m, 114.2 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm to 165 N·m (16.8 kg·m, 121.6 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm of maximum torque.
Hi….I have a Toyota Dyna.. It run well but when the temperature gauge rises to the half, it starts running like if it has a diesel knock… What could be the problem.
What year and engine does your Dyna have? Depending upon the year and model it may actually have a diesel engine in it.
Lets suppose your vehicle is a newer petrol engine. When the engine is cold it uses preset parameter to operate the engines timing and fuel system. Once the engine warms it looks to the engines sensors to operate optimally. Engine knock could occur do to one or more of these sensors failing. For example the knock sensor or engine temperature senor.
The best first course of action in any case would be to have the computer codes read. post them below if you have already gotten the codes.
I bought the car cheap as a non runner. Actually, it would run, but only for a few minutes and then stall. Starter fluid would get it to run again but only for a few seconds. So it’s a fuel issue. Noid light showed that injectors were firing.
The car had a new fuel pump, so someone already tried that and it didn’t work, and the pump is very noisy. But the filter looked original, so I put a fuel filter on it. That helped quite a bit. The car runs and drives. But when I fill the tank and drive for a bit, the no start condition returns. And the pump is still very noisy. I thought that maybe the plugged fuel filter ruined the new pump, so I put another new pump on, but it too is noisy.
No start is only with a full tank
The no start is only with a full tank. And there is a good bit of pressure in the tank. I was going to check the pick up in the tank again, but as soon as I pulled the return line, pressurized fuel started shooting out. I got the hose back on and took the gas cap off. It vented quite a bit of pressure.
I figured EVAP, so today I drove it for a bit, and pulled the hose off the charcoal canister, but no pressure was released. I took off the cap and a little pressure was released, but not a ton. But the tank is no longer completely full. The gas cap is new, and there is evidence that fuel was leaking from the old cap.
I think that’s it. Thanks in advance for any help.
Does the no start go away if you leave the gas cap off?
Before you mentioned that it only happens with a full tank of gas my thoughts were leaning toward a failing ignition control module. This is a common failure component that tends to stop working when warmed up. Once the car stalls if you let it cool for a while it will start back up.
The next time it won’t start maybe check for no spark condition.
If the fuses are OK, then move on to checking the ground connections. There may be a shared ground connection that would effect all the electrical items no longer working.
It is possible that the fuse blown may only correct the lighter and mirrors. Then you would look to see if the bulbs for the shifter light are good. Then check the wiring and connections. Finally check for current signal from the selector switch.
Changed rear rotors and brakes and now wheel won’t spin in reverse. Parking brake is engaged in reverse. Replaced all springs/hardware on parking brakes and used PBBlaster to make sure the cable wasn’t getting hung up. Tried to drive the car several times and parking brake is definitely on in reverse. Adjusted the adjustment wheel so that the brakes are compacted as much as can be and the hub spins fine forward but stops immediately when spun in reverse. I even put the old rotors back on thinking that would solve it however still acts the same. In the end, by taking out the adjustment wheel spreader the car works, however I have no parking brake and it will not pass state inspection this month without it. I’m at a loss and feel as if I’ve tried everything.
This may sound odd to you but I have seen this once before. It turned out the brake shoes were install improperly. Let me see if I can describe what was going on. The brake shoe material is a different size for two of them. The actual external shoe (metal part) is the same on all four per say. But there are two that the shoe material is shorter then the other. Looking at just one side with two short shoes or one side with two longer shoes would be hard to notice. And the difference if difficult to notice at all until you set one directly on top of the other for comparison. This would be what I would recommend you check first.
Parking Brake Shoes Replacement
1. Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove mounting bolts, then separate rear disc brake caliper assembly. Use wire or an equivalent tool to keep brake caliper from hanging down by flexible hose.
I purchased this van in 2016 from an older couple and noticed that there was a slight hesitation with the automatic transmission when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. After changing the trans fluid and filter to 100% synthetic it improved.
Lately I’ve noticed there is a greater hesitation when cornering.
Is this solely transmission issues or could there be another problem, such as the drive shaft bearing or joint?
Most likely just transmission related since you did see a change in the transmission function when you changed the fluid and now it is showing similar signs. The best approach would be to see if there are any transmission codes stored in the computer that may indicate otherwise. Possibly a failing wheel speed sensor, etc.
My Air Conditioning isn’t working right. If I start it when it’s relatively cool outside, like 75 degrees, it’ll blow ice cold. If I then continue to the desert where it’s 105 degrees, it’ll still be blowing ice cold. BUT, when I leave it in the desert for a few hours where it’s 105 and come back and turn it on (when now it’s very hot outside and inside the car), the AC will not blow any cold air. It’ll blow like 98 degree air, not any cooler. As I drive back towards cooler outside temps, then it’ll start to work again. It’s all very strange, not to mention uncomfortable. Any ideas? A couple months ago I had a new condenser installed from damage to the old one. I’ve already tried replacing the relay.
This is common to a failing mode/blend door actuator. The actuator is a tiny electronic device that opens and closes the doors inside the ventilation system. This allows it to switch from hot to cold.
When the vehicle sets, heat and moisture tend to affect these components. And when first put in use after setting they have a harder time functioning properly.