Jun 132019
 

2008 Toyota Yaris

My Yaris is very under powered and is consuming a lot of fuel.
When cruising in 6th gear changing down to 3rd or 4th and flooring it provides almost no extra acceleration at all even well into the torque band, the engine revs as it should but the power is simply not there, the engine itself also sounds a bit rough, like a faint scratching noise when accelerating hard. The fuel consumption has increased by 2 litres for every 100km. (I’m from South Africa, sorry for the metric units).

It has 400 000 km on it. No check engine light comes on whatsoever. I’ve replaced spark plugs, oil, filters and cleaned the MAF sensor. The exhaust system has been checked for leaks and there are none.
I’m trying to look at any other cause before taking the car to have the engine rebuilt. Do you have any suggestions as to what could be causing low power with high fuel consumption?



The Top 5 Causes of High Fuel Consumption in Petrol Engines

Below are the top 5 causes of high fuel consumption for vehicles with petrol engines.

  1. Carrying Excess Weight – One simple cause of high fuel consumption is when a vehicle is carrying too much weight, whether it has a lot of items in the trunk or in a trailer that it’s hauling. The more weight that’s being carried around by the vehicle, the more demand that is being put on the engine to generate enough power to move all of it. Whenever the engine must generate more power, it needs to burn more fuel in the internal combustion process. Therefore, you end up having to pump more gas because the vehicle uses more gas to satisfy its power needs.
  2. Bad Spark Plugs – When spark plugs get worn out, you will have a lot more engine misfires with your vehicle which will use up more fuel. You need to be sure to use the best quality spark plugs possible, so you can get the most miles out of them. Iridium spark plugs and platinum spark plugs are the two most preferred types.
  3. Dirty Air Filter – There are many reasons to have a clean air filter, but one big reason is to have a strong fuel economy. If your engine is filled with dirty air, then its internal combustion mixture won’t create as much power for the engine. This means it’ll use up more fuel just to perform the most basic driving needs. So, remember to change your air filter regularly.
  4. Low Tire Pressure– The tires on your vehicle need to be inflated to the proper amount of air pressure, usually between 32 PSI and 34 PSI on the majority of economy cars. If you’re driving a vehicle with low tire pressure on any or all the tires, it creates more wear and resistance for those tires. This causes the engine to work harder to make up for the pressure loss, which means more fuel will be used to power the engine for this purpose.
  5. Bad Oxygen Sensors – Your engine has oxygen sensors which keep track of the mixture of air and fuel in the internal combustion chamber. Based on what it senses, it tells the powertrain control module to either take away fuel or add fuel. But if the oxygen sensor does not work properly, the system will automatically add more fuel even if the engine doesn’t need it.

Source: https://oards.com/causes-of-car-high-fuel-consumption/

May 032019
 

prado-bumper

I would like to know if it is necessary to replace the Front Bumper Guard for my car. It was damaged and if the guard is not necessary I would just take it off. I have seen other Prados without this guard. I bought this car used and did not put it on.

Awaiting your reply,



No. You do not have to attach the bumper guard if you choose not to.

Nov 142018
 

 Toyota Corolla

My car was hit on the left rear side while parked. The other car was parked behind me and was pulling out and hit my car. The damage to the body was repaired. After getting my car back I notice the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right even if the tires are straight. I don’t hear any grinding noises or any other kind of noises when I turn left or right. The brakes and engine work fine. The engine light is not on or any other warning light. I have driven it on the freeway and on the street. I don’t notice any problems. Is is safe to drive the car? What needs to be done to repair it? Thanks.


A front wheel or four wheel alignment would be the repair needed. During the alignment the discovery of a damaged part may come to light.

Nov 132018
 

This past Monday on my way to work, my car started bucking and the check engine light started flashing. I checked the code, it was P0301, Cylinder 1 misfire. Since then I have…

First I Changed the Ignition Coil Cylinder 1
Then I Changed the Spark Plug Cylinder 1
Changed the Fuel Injector Cylinder 1
Performed a Compression test Cylinder 1. Passed 185 psi
Visually inspected the wire harness
Visually inspected the vacuum hoses
Swapped the ECU

About 2 months, ago I installed a new fuel pump, fuel filter and pressure regulator.

When I first start the car, it runs fine. While it is still in park, I can rev ’til the cows come home without issue. When I put the car in gear and drive for a few seconds, I get the Flashing CEL and Misfire code(p0301 only) comes back every time. Also, I can feel the car missing, so I know its not an erroneous code. What should I try next?


I would recommend checking for intake manifold gasket leaks. It is a common failure that may cause a misfire problem. I have provided a diagnostic chart to help assist you.

Code P0301 Diagnostic Chart

P0301 Diagnostic Chart - 2009 Toyota

Sep 082018
 

2006 Toyota Sequoia

New rack and pinion

Well I put a new rack and pinion in my 2006 Toyota Sequoia but had a issue. I didn’t tighten the drive shaft screw at bottom. But did tighten the two on top I was going to back to tht after I screwed the nozzles in I got the one small looking nozzle but the other would not tighten for nothing it didn’t look stripped it looked fine anyway the sun was going down and I had to get ready for work so I thought to my self I could tighten the one screw on driveshaft and put the nozzle in with my tires on ground anyway.

I put my tires on and took it off the jack and stands and started working on the nozzle which I couldn’t get to tighten but as I’m looking up I see the driveshaft screws are turned the opposite direction, and even tho I didn’t get the nozzle on all the way I just wanted to try to start my truck it would not turn over my truck always turns over all the lights lit the dash and made a weird sound but not even close to starting
You
Do u think there’s a problem tht my screws for my driveshaft are turned the opposite way in which I can’t reach is the reason my truck won’t start or the nozzle not in right or both


Would not turn over

No. I think your battery drained while you were working on it. This is VERY common. Fully charge the battery and the vehicle should start right up as normal.

Your lights and radio will work fine with a weak battery as they require as little as 5 to 15 amps to operate. However a starter requires upwards of 200 amps to operate correctly.

Sep 082018
 

I have a Toyota Auris (57 plate) which has started making a really strange noise. I have uploaded some dash cam footage of the noise here:

It is quite a loud sawing/grinding noise that seems to occur when I drive around 40mph or more. The noise generally comes and goes when I am over this speed but what I did notice is;

– The noise stops when I apply the brake, please see from 10 seconds on-wards and you’ll hear the noise goes away

– Also the noise tone changes when I steer to the left to a sharper but quieter noise

It sounds like the noise is coming from the engine but it is quite hard to tell. My engine makes normal noises when I am stationary. The noise is really annoying to hear when I am driving however and I want to get it fixed. Does anyone know:

1) Why is my car making that noise?

2) What would need repairing to get rid of the noise

3) How much could that set me back if I get it fixed?

Many Thanks,

James


Loud sawing/grinding noise

In most cases when the noise gets quieter when you apply the brakes, the issue is with the brakes. However you also said the noise changes pitch when turning from left to right. This is an indication of a hub bearing going out. When the hub bearings start to fail they can also cause premature wear on the brake pads.

Therefore disassembly and inspection will be required to determine the exact cause and cost.

 

Mar 282018
 

2007 Toyota Rav 4

We changed the wheel hub assembly because we expected a low humming noise to be a bad wheel bearing. After changing it, we drove home about 30 miles. The noise was still there and by the time we got home it was louder than ever. And I was scared to drive over 15 mph. I jacked the tire up (passenger rear) and tire was wiggling as if it had a bad wheel bearing. The funny thing is the tire didn’t even wiggle before we changed the Hub assembly. So I am guessing maybe the cv shaft nut wasn’t tightened enough, I don’t know. And if it wasn’t tightened enough or came loose driving could it have damaged the wheel bearing in the hub assembly?

Does it sound like it wasn’t correctly tightened? Also, when I removed the tire and was wiggling the hub it wasn’t tight trying to rock it back and forth. But there was a little play when pushing and pulling it in and out.


Hub bearing noise

Sounds like you shouldn’t have driven it home. But instead circled the block and made the shop aware that the noise was still there. They may have been able to save the part and you some time. At this point you are going to need to take it back(30 miles). And I hope you got a good warranty because you are about to use it.

The shop that performed the repair will take a close look and be able to tell if the new part simply failed or if it was incorrectly installed. Either way, it should not be loose nor would it come loose on its own.