Car overheated i let cool down car wouldnt start needed a jump start. Wouldnt start after that.what could it be?
I have taken the time to develop a diagnostic chart just for this issue. Most common reason would be the BATTERY.
No headlights? Have replaced 3 relays and don’t know if they are the right ones to replace? No wiring diagram or locations?
My car was hit on the left rear side while parked. The other car was parked behind me and was pulling out and hit my car. The damage to the body was repaired. After getting my car back I notice the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right even if the tires are straight. I don’t hear any grinding noises or any other kind of noises when I turn left or right. The brakes and engine work fine. The engine light is not on or any other warning light. I have driven it on the freeway and on the street. I don’t notice any problems. Is is safe to drive the car? What needs to be done to repair it? Thanks.
A front wheel or four wheel alignment would be the repair needed. During the alignment the discovery of a damaged part may come to light.
This past Monday on my way to work, my car started bucking and the check engine light started flashing. I checked the code, it was P0301, Cylinder 1 misfire. Since then I have…
First I Changed the Ignition Coil Cylinder 1
Then I Changed the Spark Plug Cylinder 1
Changed the Fuel Injector Cylinder 1
Performed a Compression test Cylinder 1. Passed 185 psi
Visually inspected the wire harness
Visually inspected the vacuum hoses
Swapped the ECU
About 2 months, ago I installed a new fuel pump, fuel filter and pressure regulator.
When I first start the car, it runs fine. While it is still in park, I can rev ’til the cows come home without issue. When I put the car in gear and drive for a few seconds, I get the Flashing CEL and Misfire code(p0301 only) comes back every time. Also, I can feel the car missing, so I know its not an erroneous code. What should I try next?
I would recommend checking for intake manifold gasket leaks. It is a common failure that may cause a misfire problem. I have provided a diagnostic chart to help assist you.
Well I put a new rack and pinion in my 2006 Toyota Sequoia but had a issue. I didn’t tighten the drive shaft screw at bottom. But did tighten the two on top I was going to back to tht after I screwed the nozzles in I got the one small looking nozzle but the other would not tighten for nothing it didn’t look stripped it looked fine anyway the sun was going down and I had to get ready for work so I thought to my self I could tighten the one screw on driveshaft and put the nozzle in with my tires on ground anyway.
I put my tires on and took it off the jack and stands and started working on the nozzle which I couldn’t get to tighten but as I’m looking up I see the driveshaft screws are turned the opposite direction, and even tho I didn’t get the nozzle on all the way I just wanted to try to start my truck it would not turn over my truck always turns over all the lights lit the dash and made a weird sound but not even close to starting
Do u think there’s a problem tht my screws for my driveshaft are turned the opposite way in which I can’t reach is the reason my truck won’t start or the nozzle not in right or both
No. I think your battery drained while you were working on it. This is VERY common. Fully charge the battery and the vehicle should start right up as normal.
Your lights and radio will work fine with a weak battery as they require as little as 5 to 15 amps to operate. However a starter requires upwards of 200 amps to operate correctly.
I have a Toyota Auris (57 plate) which has started making a really strange noise. I have uploaded some dash cam footage of the noise here:
It is quite a loud sawing/grinding noise that seems to occur when I drive around 40mph or more. The noise generally comes and goes when I am over this speed but what I did notice is;
– The noise stops when I apply the brake, please see from 10 seconds on-wards and you’ll hear the noise goes away
– Also the noise tone changes when I steer to the left to a sharper but quieter noise
It sounds like the noise is coming from the engine but it is quite hard to tell. My engine makes normal noises when I am stationary. The noise is really annoying to hear when I am driving however and I want to get it fixed. Does anyone know:
1) Why is my car making that noise?
2) What would need repairing to get rid of the noise
3) How much could that set me back if I get it fixed?
In most cases when the noise gets quieter when you apply the brakes, the issue is with the brakes. However you also said the noise changes pitch when turning from left to right. This is an indication of a hub bearing going out. When the hub bearings start to fail they can also cause premature wear on the brake pads.
Therefore disassembly and inspection will be required to determine the exact cause and cost.
We changed the wheel hub assembly because we expected a low humming noise to be a bad wheel bearing. After changing it, we drove home about 30 miles. The noise was still there and by the time we got home it was louder than ever. And I was scared to drive over 15 mph. I jacked the tire up (passenger rear) and tire was wiggling as if it had a bad wheel bearing. The funny thing is the tire didn’t even wiggle before we changed the Hub assembly. So I am guessing maybe the cv shaft nut wasn’t tightened enough, I don’t know. And if it wasn’t tightened enough or came loose driving could it have damaged the wheel bearing in the hub assembly?
Does it sound like it wasn’t correctly tightened? Also, when I removed the tire and was wiggling the hub it wasn’t tight trying to rock it back and forth. But there was a little play when pushing and pulling it in and out.
Sounds like you shouldn’t have driven it home. But instead circled the block and made the shop aware that the noise was still there. They may have been able to save the part and you some time. At this point you are going to need to take it back(30 miles). And I hope you got a good warranty because you are about to use it.
The shop that performed the repair will take a close look and be able to tell if the new part simply failed or if it was incorrectly installed. Either way, it should not be loose nor would it come loose on its own.
My 2010 Toyota Hybrid has Diagnostic Trouble Code P3065 and I am not sure what it is. What does this code mean?
There are engine codes and battery codes. The battery they are referring to is the Hybrid battery. This code is related to the battery.
If the temperature indicated by the battery temperature sensor is lower than the standard level (open), or is higher than the standard level (short), the battery smart unit interprets this as a sensor malfunction. If the battery smart unit detects that the HV battery temperature is out of normal range or its value is abnormal, the HV control ECU will illuminate the MIL and set a DTC.
Hybrid Battery Temperature Sensor Range
The battery temperature sensors are provided at 4 locations on the bottom of the HV battery. The resistance of the thermistor, which is built into each battery temperature sensor, varies in accordance with changes in the HV battery temperature. The lower the battery temperature, the higher the thermistor resistance. Conversely, the higher the temperature. the lower the resistance. The battery smart unit uses the battery temperature sensors to detect the HV battery temperature, and sends the detected values to the hybrid vehicle control ECU. Based on the se results, the hybrid vehicle control ECU controls the blower fan.(The blower fan starts when the HV battery temperature rises above a predetermined level.)
So I’m thinking about trading my truck for a 2005 Toyota Camry. But it has 2446xxx miles and I was told your never supposed to buy a car over 200xxx miles. So I’m not sure if I should go through with it or not.
There are many reasons to consider. Can you use the car the same as the truck, NO. Do you need to be able to haul stuff around? Do you have a child on the way that will require the use of a back seat of a car? Was your goal in life to end up with a car with that many miles on it? Could you possibly sell the Camry for more money than your beat up truck? Are you able to work on cars that need repairing often. Why is the owner of the Camry so eager to trade for your vehicle?
I have personally purchased a vehicle with 220,000 miles on it and drove it for going on two years now. I needed a truck so I bought one. That being said, I am a mechanic and knew going in that I would have to work on it often. And I have. Intake gaskets, air conditioning compressor, brake lines, brake pads and the list goes on. But for myself it has been a useful tool.
You didn’t mention how many miles your truck has on it or what kind so it is difficult to compare there monetary valve.
Was your goal to find this particular Camry, probably not. I would think if you want a car, you might consider selling your truck out right and buying the car you really want.
1. DISCONNECT Plug wires from spark plugs
Disconnect the plug wires at the rubber boot. DO NOT pull on the wires.
NOTICE: Pulling on or bending the cords may damage the conductor inside.
2. REMOVE SPARK PLUGS Using 16 mm plug wrench, remove the spark plugs.
3. CLEAN SPARK PLUGS Using a spark plug cleaner or wire brush, clean the spark plug.
4. VISUALLY INSPECT SPARK PLUGS Check the spark plug for electrode wear, threads damage and insulator damage. If abnormal, replace the plugs. Recommended spark plugs: NDK16R–U or NGK BKR5EYA $9.76 for 4 pack
5. ADJUST ELECTRODE GAP Carefully bend the outer electrode to obtain the correct electrode gap. Correct electrode gap: 0.8 mm (0.031 in.)
6. INSTALL SPARK PLUGS Using 16 mm plug wrench, install the spark plug.Torque: 18 N–m (180 kgf–cm, 13 ft–Ibf)
7. RECONNECT Plug wires TO SPARK PLUGS