My engine dies on low speed (in hold ups)when the AC is on. I ve already clean the throttle and oxygen sensor, cannot accertain fuel pump pressure, but the car works fine if the AC compressor not ON.
Idle speed can be adjusted but the use of a scan tool is required. One thing to check before you get into that would be to check the PCV Hose connections and condition. Check the the connections and hose for leaks. There is a chance that a Code P0505 – idle control system, may be set in this condition. Check the PCV hose and intake for leaks if code P0505 is set.
I replaced the fan clutch this past January because it would squeal really bad for a short while when starting the engine. Now it’s doing it again. Will pulling it apart and adding silicone oil likely fix it, or did I just get a poor after market part, and I need to replace it again?
Basically, my question is can being low on silicon oil cause a fan clutch to squeal? In which case it may be worth trying adding more oil before replacing again.
In most cases the squealing noise is coming from failing serpentine belt. I created the video below to help assist in such an occasion. If you are certain the fan is at fault it doesn’t cost you anything but time to try something before replacing a part. But in my experience if there is a leak, unless you fix the leak, it will still leak.
How to Check your squealing belt
How to Replace Clutch Fan
Removal & Installation
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the engine undercover.
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the 2 bolts and the air pipe, as necessary.
Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the oil dipstick guide, by removing the bolt.
Remove the power steering drive belt, by loosening the lock bolt and adjusting bolt to the idler pulley, if equipped with power steering.
Remove the No. 2 fan shroud, by removing the 2 clips.
Remove the No. 1 fan shroud, by removing the 4 bolts.
Loosen the idler pulley nut and adjusting bolt and remove the air conditioning drive belt, if equipped with air conditioning.
Remove the alternator drive belt, fan (with fan clutch), water pump pulley and the fan shroud.
◦Stretch the belt and loosen the water pump pulley mounting nuts.
◦Loosen the lock, pivot and the adjusting bolts for the alternator.
So I’m in the process of fixing my power steering… My mechanic in laws said to replace the pump but every time I put fluid in there it works for a week or so and then the reservoir is empty so I was thinking maybe a leak.. My Question is Would I be better off replacing the whole pump or do I only need to do something else?
You need to locate the leak and repair it. Then fill it with fluid. The power steering is a closed system and should not loose fluid ever. Replace the pump if that is what is leaking.
Power Steering Pump, Replace
Remove righthand front fender apron seal.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove righthand front wheel.
Remove clamp plates and holders, then the clamp from tube.
Loosen drive belt adjustment bolt, then remove drive belt.
Disconnect oil pressure switch connector.
Remove power steering pump mounting bolts, then the pump with pressure tube attached.
Remove oil pressure switch from union bolt.
Remove union bolt and gasket.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Torque wheel lug nuts to 76 ft. lbs.
b. Torque power steering pump mounting bolts to 32 ft. lbs.
c. Torque power steering pump pressure tubes to 33 ft. lbs.
The beginning of November my 4runner broke down. We changed the alternator. Well ever since my . Extremely fast almost to the point, you can’t even drive around in it for 10 minutes without it blowing again.
The end of Nov. it went dead on me. So we got a new battery. Once the new battery was in we noticed how the lights inside and out would go real dim when I wasn’t on the gas pedal but as soon as I would push the gas it would brighten back up. Also the same with the air(it’s cold so it’s heat atm). Also, when my alternator went out the first time the gauges and the air cut off, the fuse blew but I didn’t know that at the time.
I’m at a loss on what to do anymore with it. I’ve read everything from a short to the ac compressor but I don’t know what could be wrong. My husband has been trying to fix on it and look things up but he also isn’t a mechanic. But he can normally figure out what’s wrong but we are stuck. Please help. I don’t want to get rid of it but if I have to I will.
Gauge fuse keeps blowing
Looking at the wiring diagram in reference to the alternator and gauges I see a DIODE between the IGN fuse and the alternator. If anyone of the wires in the wiring harness are shorted or the diode has failed it may cause this issue. Checking the wiring in the wiring harness would be a good first step.
Unplug the connectors and check for continuity from the blown 10 amp Gauge fuse to ground. Then Isolate the connections and test the wires to each other to find the short.
I have 2007 Camry, it is making knocking sound when I go over 80Kmph(50mph) from the right front side. No sound while turning, only when driving straight at high speed. What could be possible problem?
I would guess an air damn/splash shield or piece of trim has come loose. Damage can occur easily if driven over a parking block, etc. Make sure to check the Right Front Fender Splash Shield and Wheel Opening Extension Pad.
So essentially I would need to know the VE injector pump’s plunger stroke at top dead center for the Toyota 2L-II engine with an Automatic Cold Start Device(ACSD)?
And if I could bother with a rather more elaborate question for clarity.
I’ve only been able to find information on various other L engines and the plunger stroke can vary quite dramatically. I’ve currently had timed it for 0.84mm@TDC(Shoots up to about 1.15mm when the ACSD engages) as this was within the margins for both the 2L(with ACSD) and the 3L according to their respective repair manuals.
However, one source that claims to be for the 2L-II had the plunger stroke as far retarded as between .44mm – .56mm with the ACSD but as high as 0.84mm – 0.96mm without the ACSD.
So my clarifying question would be; How come the ACSD is engaged it seems to time the pump for Hot running in an engine without one?
It appears you have already answered your first question.
With ACSD: 0.44-0.56 mm (0.0173-0.0220 in.)
Without ACSD: 0.84-0.96 mm (0.0331-0.0378 in.)
Lastly your second question might be better answered by an engineer at Toyota.
Toyota 2L-II Engine
The 2L-II is an upgrade of the 2L. The cylinder bore and the piston stroke remains the same. The most significant change is that the camshaft lifts the valve directly via tappet instead of a rocker arm. The valve clearance is adjusted using shims.
The Toyota 2L produced from 76 PS (56 kW; 75 HP) at 4,000 rpm to 90 PS (66 kW; 88 HP) at 4,200 rpm of maximum horsepower and from 155 N·m (15.8 kg·m, 114.2 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm to 165 N·m (16.8 kg·m, 121.6 ft·lb) at 2,400 rpm of maximum torque.
Hi….I have a Toyota Dyna.. It run well but when the temperature gauge rises to the half, it starts running like if it has a diesel knock… What could be the problem.
What year and engine does your Dyna have? Depending upon the year and model it may actually have a diesel engine in it.
Lets suppose your vehicle is a newer petrol engine. When the engine is cold it uses preset parameter to operate the engines timing and fuel system. Once the engine warms it looks to the engines sensors to operate optimally. Engine knock could occur do to one or more of these sensors failing. For example the knock sensor or engine temperature senor.
The best first course of action in any case would be to have the computer codes read. post them below if you have already gotten the codes.
I bought the car cheap as a non runner. Actually, it would run, but only for a few minutes and then stall. Starter fluid would get it to run again but only for a few seconds. So it’s a fuel issue. Noid light showed that injectors were firing.
The car had a new fuel pump, so someone already tried that and it didn’t work, and the pump is very noisy. But the filter looked original, so I put a fuel filter on it. That helped quite a bit. The car runs and drives. But when I fill the tank and drive for a bit, the no start condition returns. And the pump is still very noisy. I thought that maybe the plugged fuel filter ruined the new pump, so I put another new pump on, but it too is noisy.
No start is only with a full tank
The no start is only with a full tank. And there is a good bit of pressure in the tank. I was going to check the pick up in the tank again, but as soon as I pulled the return line, pressurized fuel started shooting out. I got the hose back on and took the gas cap off. It vented quite a bit of pressure.
I figured EVAP, so today I drove it for a bit, and pulled the hose off the charcoal canister, but no pressure was released. I took off the cap and a little pressure was released, but not a ton. But the tank is no longer completely full. The gas cap is new, and there is evidence that fuel was leaking from the old cap.
I think that’s it. Thanks in advance for any help.
Does the no start go away if you leave the gas cap off?
Before you mentioned that it only happens with a full tank of gas my thoughts were leaning toward a failing ignition control module. This is a common failure component that tends to stop working when warmed up. Once the car stalls if you let it cool for a while it will start back up.
The next time it won’t start maybe check for no spark condition.
If the fuses are OK, then move on to checking the ground connections. There may be a shared ground connection that would effect all the electrical items no longer working.
It is possible that the fuse blown may only correct the lighter and mirrors. Then you would look to see if the bulbs for the shifter light are good. Then check the wiring and connections. Finally check for current signal from the selector switch.