I need the mass air flow sensor wiring diagram please.
MAF Sensor Wiring Diagram
I need the mass air flow sensor wiring diagram please.
Having electrical problems that caused the alternator to fail. I replaced that and new one barely to not charging at all. Mechanic said may be bad ecu. Trouble code getting is p7050.
Have to give gas to start and continue running. I have cleaned idle control and changed plugs and coil packs. Reads cylinder 2&4 misfires. It has been sitting unstarted for a year. Previous owner said it started sputtering going up a hill and died. Has been sitting since.
One possibility is the Idle Air Control may need replaced. The most likely cause though would be a faulty intake gasket or blown head gasket. You can test for both. The most common being the intake gasket.
Code P0302 means that cylinder 2 misfire is occurring or is randomly misfiring. Start by checking for intake leaks. If no leaks are found the next step is to replace the spark plugs on cylinder 2 or all effected cylinders.
I need to know if I need to disconnect anything on my highlander before towing it on a car dolly.
If this is the FWD model you need to make sure the front wheels are on the dolly and the park brake is not activated.
If this is an AWD model the vehicle needs towing on a car trailer or flat bed. It is possible to put the front wheels on the the dolly and remove the rear driveshaft but I do not recommend it.
I bought a wheel bearing hub assembly but its for a car with anti lock breaks and my car does not have anti lock breaks. Can I install it anyway without hooking up the abs sensor?
If it bolts up, I don’t see why not. You will want to cut or remove the wiring from the hub bearing so it is not is the way.
Typically the hub bearing without the sensor is cheaper. Exchanging the bearing might be more cost effective unless there is excessive shipping costs involved.
5 speed manual trans will go into all gears but will not move can put into gear and it doesn’t move at all. Full clutch pressure. Feel like clutch isn’t fully releasing was told it could be a coulmn things. What do you think it could be?
Missing a drive shaft or the clutch disc is shot. If it is a 4WD the transfer case may be in neutral.
Are any of these the lo-jack wiring??
Call Lo-Jack @ 1-800-4-LOJACK for a wiring diagram and installation instructions.
If the wiring harness is attached to a small box that looks like this.
Lo-Jack is an aftermarket security tracking device. When a vehicle is stolen the owner reports the stolen vehicle. And then contacts Lo-Jack for further assistance. Once the Police are contacted they are able to track the location of the vehicle. This is done by receiving a unique signal sent from the stolen vehicle.
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry. Last night the temperature was -10 degrees. I started my car and drove about a block, then got out of the car to let it warm up with the heater on high. About 10 minutes later, I came back to find the engine had died but the heater still blowing. There was power and it sounded as though it should start but something was missing, like spark to gas or alternator weak? Please help..
You will need to make sure you have a fully charged battery. You may also need to get it inside a warm garage to thaw. Make sure it just didn’t run out of gas. You will need to determine what the engine is not getting when it will not start. You can try spraying starting fluid in the air filter while someone holds the gas pedal at least half way down and cranks the engine over. If it tries to start you know it is a fuel related issue. Further diagnostics may be necessary. I have a wonderful diagnostic chart available online.
I have a 06 toyota avalon, lost power, was told by auto zone it was the alternator. The battery was just purchased 2 months prior. The alternator was less than 1 year old and under warranty with Monroe muffler. The alternator was replaced and I purchased another battery. The battery light still on solid. So I called 4 shops and they all say the alternator is still a bad one. I brought it to Mr. Tire who also validated the warranty and replaced the alternator yet again. The battery light still on so Mr. Tire called tech support, ran tests and said I need an electrical specialist. Have you ever heard of this issue before? any help is appreciated.
Sure, I have heard of this before. This can happen quite often with Autozone “reman” alternators. The good thing is Autozone will stand behind the part warranty but the bad news is they don’t cover the labor in most cases.
However the alternator may be just fine. It may in fact be a wiring harness issue or an electrical connection. With your vehicle being 10 years old it can have all kinds of issues. We will focus on the battery light being on. When the battery light is illuminated it is telling you the battery is not being charged. This can happen sometimes when the battery has an internal short. Luckily you have replaced it and know that is not the case here. It is still possible that the alternator could be bad but after replacing several in a row, I would think at least one of them was good. So that leaves us with the connections between the alternator and the battery.
There are 4 small fuses to check and 1 Large fuses to check(depending if you have the smart key option or not). Also 1 main fusible link. My guess would be the Main Fusible link is bad. These fuses are what I would check first. This is of course assuming there isn’t a bunch of corrosion on the battery connections or cables. Only after these fuses check out would I start checking the wiring harness and connections tot he alternator.
I will provide you with a wiring diagram so it may be easier to understand.
OK so it all started off with my check engine light coming on and that was for the two oxygen sensors (top and bottom) which I haven’t changed. It was running okay for a good 5 months until it suddenly didn’t turn on one day due to the starter. I changed the starter and then about 2 months later the car started jerking back and forth and not accelerating uphill. I thought it was the transmission at first, especially after it finally wouldn’t go more than 30 mph. And that was on a good run.
My car is at 230 thousand miles. So my friend didn’t think that was it since his computer read it was one of the coils. We changed one of the coils, nothing. Then changed the spark plugs, nothing. Then finally the mass air flow sensor and bam. It started working again perfectly. Ran a good two weeks and all of a sudden my car started to jerk again really hard. Have I mentioned that my top motor mount is cracked too, eek. It suddenly turned off and so I cleaned out the mass air flow sensor and it started up again. It ran okay for a few minutes before I had to park.
Now… what happens is that the car turns on OK and doesn’t stall or anything… UNTIL I shift it onto Drive. Reverse and Neutral and Park are OK it seems to be just when I shift it onto Drive and what happens is that it turns off. The whole car completely off. I cant move or accelerate or anything. Won’t budge. I even went back to get a brand new mass air flow sensor(remanufactured though) thinking maybe it was a faulty part I was sold but nothing. Any ideas? Help! lol
I would start by replacing the upstream oxygen sensor(A/F Sensor) since you have a code for it. The upstream oxygen sensor is what tells the computer it needs more or less fuel based upon the burn. The downstream just lets you know if the catalytic converter is doing it job and has no effect on drivability whatsoever. Also if you have any other codes it would be a good idea to look into each one of those codes. Post the codes below and I will be able to give you more information on each.