No Starter engagement. Using wiring diagram from Toyota, I can jump over ST relay sending current from terminal 3 to 5 will crank. I suspect Neutral/Safety Sw, wiring diagram shows 2 terminals, but actually have 8 terminals on Sw. Willing to pay for quick response. HArold
The Neutral switch may have eight wires but only the two wires shown on the starting system diagram have to do with it starting. The Black/White wire and the Black/Red wire. However there are several fuses to check as well as the starter relay. The starter relay is the most common failure component. You can rule out the theft deterrent system as it shuts off the fuel system, not the starter.
You should see battery voltage at PIN#5 on the starter relay at all times. If not check the Main 40 amp fuse, the AM2 30 amp fuse, the ALT 120 amp fuse and the main fusible link.
You should see battery negative on PIN#2 of the starter relay at all times. Also should see battery voltage at PIN#1 (Black/Red wire coming from neutral switch) only when the ignition key is held in the “START” position.
You should see battery voltage leaving the relay on PIN#3 only when the relay is activated by battery voltage being applied at PIN#1. This will cause starter engagement. If this does not occur and all voltages check out. Replace the relay.
Toyota dealer couldn’t figure it out after trying tune up, fuel injector service. They sent a recording of the noise with a scan tool to a Toyota engineer and their response was that is normal. I have been using premium gas, tried carbon cleaner in my gas and nothing helps. I’m not an over sensitive driver, the knocking gets REALLY bad when the car is going up a slight hill or getting on the highway via on ramp.
I would suggest using a premium grade fuel from a different fueling station and even go as far as to add some Octane Boost to the gas tank. This would be a good test to determine if it is a pre-detonation issue occurring. It is common for fuel to become contaminated, this is why I suggest changing fueling stations.
Engine Knock Sensor – Pinging Deterrent
The Toyota is equipped with a knock sensor. The Sensor will try to correct the ignition timing if this occurs but is not always as efficient as the human ear. If by chance you think the knock sensor is faulty it can be tested. Using a multi-meter check the Ohms between the two terminal ends on the sensor. Therefore you should see 120 – 280 ohms at room temperature(68-72 degrees). If out of range, replace the sensor.
Sometimes, when I’m sitting/idling, say, at a traffic light, my car shakes/vibrates; I can really feel it in my steering wheel but it seems to be the whole car. Turning the a/c off seems to make it better. If I put it in Neutral while at the light, the vibrating stops or lessens so that’s what I’ve been doing when it happens. Otherwise, the car is in good shape; I do regular maintenance and I’m pretty easy on cars, in general. Any help will be much appreciated.
Sounds like you may be experiencing an engine misfire. Is the check engine light on? Have the engine trouble codes pulled and post them below in the comments. This can be done for free at just about any local auto parts store. If the check engine light isn’t on you may need to continue driving it for a while until the like does come on. This allows the engines on board computer time to pinpoint the effected area.
What can be done now?
You could start by replacing the spark plugs and air filters which wouldn’t hurt anything and may be time to do so anyway. Another cause may be fuel related. If this has just started happening since your last fill up, you may want to switch to a different gas station and try a higher octane for a few fill ups. Your last fill up may have some bad gas and the higher octane should help bring up the octane level of any fuel that is left in your tank.
I have a 2005 Toyota Sienna Limited with Code P0705. I checked fuses, replaced neutral safety switch and still get codes. No reverse camera and reverse lights stay on. Can it be a beaker switch under dash and how and can this be fixed.
Thanks for your time, Kirk Asher
Sounds like the Neutral Safety Switch/Gear Selector may just need to be adjusted.
Code P0705 – Transmission Range Sensor Malfunction
Code P0705 Description
The park/neutral position (PNP) switch includes a transmission range switch. The transmission range switch detects the selector lever position when the shift lever is in the N or P shift position and sends a signal to the Transmission Control Module (TCM).
Code P0705 Possible causes
Faulty Park/Neutral Position Switch
Misadjusted Park/Neutral Position Switch
Park/Neutral Position Switch harness is open or shorted
Park/Neutral Position Switch circuit poor electrical connection
Neutral Safety Switch Adjustment
1. INSPECT PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH ASSY
(a)Apply the parking brake and turn the ignition to ON.
(b)Depress the brake pedal and check that the engine starts only when the shift lever is set in N or P position.
(c)Check that the back-up light is on and the reverse warning buzzer sounds only when the shift lever is set in R position. If a failure is found, check the park/neutral position switch for continuity.
2. ADJUST PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH ASSY
(a)Loosen the 2 bolts of park/neutral position switch and set the shift lever to the N position.
(b)Align the groove and neutral basic line.
(c)Hold the switch in position and tighten the 2 bolts. Torque: 5.4 Nm (55 kgf’cm, 48 in. ‘lbf)
(d)After adjustment, perform the inspection described in step 1.
I had a burnt valve and put a complete head from a junkyard on with new gaskets. Everything was cleaned and torqued to spec. No water in oil and no leaks, now it wont start unless I put a little gas in breather tube, and then it misses and smokes a little. Its blue smoke that kinda clears up after warming up, but still misses. Codes are P1300, P1305, P1310, P1315. Says igniters. What can I do???? Please help! Thanks
In most cases when the car is running normal and one of these codes appears it would be as simple as replacing the coil related to that specific cylinder. Not sure if these codes were there before you replaced the head or after. I am going to assume after. Double check your work. Sounds like your Timing is off. Check your timing marks again and when your done, check them again. Make sure the Crankshaft Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor are plugged in. Check for intake leaks.
If all your work checks out I would treat this issue as a random engine misfire since all cylinders are complaining.
Possible causes for engine misfire
– Faulty spark plug (s)
– Faulty ignition coil (s)
– Clogged or faulty fuel injector (s)
– Intake air leak
– Fuel injectors harness is open or shorted
– Fuel Injectors circuit poor electrical connection
– Ignition coils harness is open or shorted
– Ignition coils circuit poor electrical connection
– Insufficient cylinders compression
– Incorrect fuel pressure
Code P1300 – Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1
The P1300 code is for the ignition coil No.1 and is set when there is no IGF signal to the ECM during engine operation.
Direct Ignition System (DIS) is a 1-cylinder ignition system that ignites one cylinder with one ignition coil. Ignitor is integral to ignition coil. The Engine Control Module (ECM) determines ignition timing and outputs a ignition signal (IGT) for each cylinder. Based on the IGT signals, power transistors in the ignitor cut of current to primary coil in ignition coil, causing ignition coil to fire spark plug. After delivering a command to turn off primary circuit on the IGT wire, ECM monitors IGF circuit to ensure primary switching occurred. Possible causes
Replacing xreas shock system on my 2003 Toyota 4 Runner Limited.
I am removing the xreas system and replacing with conventional shocks.
I have read a list of threads online and what I have found online is that people replace with Bilstein HD shocks 4600 Heavy duty or 5100 series.
Also, replacing front and rear springs with FJC brand. And replacing existing sway-bar bushings that are attached to shocking system mounts!
Are these the Products you recommend?
Blistein HD shocks seem to be the way to go when replacing the xreas shock system. However I like to replace the complete assembly when available. This makes the install quicker and complete. I recommend BILSTEIN 6112 Struts & Coils 46-227287 because they come Assembled & Ready for Installation. These are good for vehicles with 0 – 2.5″ lift.
My 2009 Toyota Camry LE completely shuts down when idling at a stoplight. Everything shuts down I am not able to use the emergency lights. Recently my radio will shut down and then start back up again. Please advise what it could be. There are no indicator lights on the panel, no check engine lights. Help.
This sounds like a loose electrical connection or poor connection. I would look at the connections at the battery first. If there is any signs of corrosion, clean the battery terminal ends.
If your Toyota still has the original battery, I would recommend replacing it as it is now 7 years old.