pickup has 235,000 miles.at about 150,000 miles starter relay started clicking very loud. then it sporadically started not engaging starter., but still clicks. if i leave it sit anywhere from an hour to all night, it will engage starter. so i changed starter relay. new relay clicked from beginning. now does same as old relay, periodically will not engage starter. what now?
How many catalytic converters are there and where are they located. Thanks in advance
cold start system does not work . i have changed c/s inj. time switch, coolant temp. sensor (2 wire next to c/s inj.time switch ) connector on c/s inj.time switch was broken, so got new connector cap, but wires may have been installed backwards . when key is turned to start, 4volts in black / white striped wire. when cold (at 35 degrees) when hot, 12 volts at b/w wire when b/w wire @ c/s injector is grounded to battery. c/s injector works when wire with 12 volts is connected , & ignition switch is activated .
Hi. I have a 91 Toyota 4runner which just broke down on me. the problem is that it wont go into gear.. Ive had this problem before and the mechanic (my friend) said that it was the clutch, so he replaced my clutch, when I got it back it worked just fine. although I noticed some consistent problems with it as before. 1, the clutch will not engage (when I push the clutch in or whatever) until it is nearly all the way to the floor. 2, After the 7th day of driving it, it became harder and harder to get it to shift into any gear. finally came to where I could go into any gear (this happened while I was driving on my way home). So I looked the problem online and people were saying its either the clutch or the master. Those were an easy fix so I replaced both of them, I bought a pint of dot 3 brake fluid as required for the vehicle and continued the bleed out process. I did that and even had a clear hose line to make sure there was no air in the system. I do know that there are no leaks in the line also. after I had finished everything, I turned it on and still could not get it to shift, it was almost as if I wasn’t even pushing in the clutch. one more thing to state, I can still shift when the car is off, you can even hear it shift into each gear I go into, nice and smoothly. so my question is, is my pressure plate bad or is it the throw out bearing or does anyone know of what it could definitely be?
I had a hose which carried coolant blow while I was on my way home. I didn’t notice untill I started smelling coolant, looked at temp guage and noticed it running hot and pulled over immediately. The hose that blew was located on top of engine. I obtained a replacement hose, and filled radiator. I started the truck and ran it for approx. 30 sec. When the truck was turned off it was as if there was a large amount of backpressure that expelled a lot of coolant out of the coolant reservoir. My question is: Is this normal, or the sign of something bad? I also checked the oil to see if it looked like choc milk and it did not. Oil looked fine.
i did replace my head-gasket now my camshafts gear sound like loose shims
hi i put a motor on a 1995 toyota camry with a 2.2 engine the one i got out of the car had a crank sensor the oneI bought has no crank sensor the 1995 toyota camry came with two 2.2 engine one with a crank sensor and one with no sensor how can i start this car ?
Could I put a manual 1996 Lexus SC300 motor in my manual 1996 Toyota Celica?
My Vehicle needed the rear suspension recall, I took it in and had it done, they said an alignment was needed at that time, is that typical for that recall? Also, now that my 2yr free maintenance is over we took to and Ind shop for oil change and tire rotation and they say we need new tires, but mileage shouldn’t warrant new tires, has premature tire wear been reported as a side effect of the rear suspension recall. Recap — have alignments and premature tire wear / replacement been a side effect of the defect. thanks
Car overheated. Had it towed. They had to put in a new water pump (changed the timing and driver belts as well), FIRST, before they could tell if the engine was ok. After a $570 bill, I was told the engine was bad. Cracked block, head? Got different answers. When pressed (asked for it in writing), then they could not tell me EXACTLY what was wrong. DID I NEED TO SPEND $570? TO TELL THE ENGINE WAS SHOT [OR IS IT]? GOT CONFLICTING ADVISE.
There are other ways to determine the condition of the engine, vs. yes, that’s the only way we can do it. Engine light code didn’t provide much help (they said). THANK YOU VERY MUCH!