Noise when I’m driving but not at idle. I’ve been told its probably a gearbox bearing or gearbox issue. The gears change very smoothly and the car is running well except for this noise.
Is this a serious problem and expensive?? Thanks
I have never done a Volkswagen transmission before. I have done a few R&R s on Chevy’s and Ford’s but no Volkswagen’s. So if any one can help me out with a few tips or what I need to do or don’t do I would be grateful. I have heard a couple of things that I may have to do to pull this transmission like pull the starter to get to a bolt from the starter hole. and had someone told me that you can not get to the the torque converter bolts too pull the trans. I am a little lost on this so if anyone can help me out I would be grateful… thanks gene
Volkswagen Passat Transmission Removal
Not sure of any tips or tricks for this one myself. I will add the auto repair manual procedure for reference and post in case some others may have something to add.
Hello, thanks for your time. I have a 2013 VW GTI and whenever I turn it on, the radiator fan starts running, and it starts making a really loud noise. Imagine the noise as when you have a car in idle, and the fan starts for a while, and then it stops. Mine, on the other hand, keeps going and doesn’t stop until I turn off the car. Also, only one of the fans seems to be running, the one of the driver side, I haven’t seen or heard the smaller passenger side fan run. What could be the problem and what should i do?
It sounds to me like a relay is sticking. This would cause the fan to come on and stay on until power is cut from the relay(key is turned off). It would appear from looking at the wiring diagram of the cooling fan circuit the only relay would be the Motronic Engine Control Module Power Supply Relay. Check this first by simply removing it and seeing if the fan quits.
1) erratic rev counter
2) does not idle all of a sudden
Most likely cause would be a vacuum leak if the check engine light has not come on yet. Check engine light on? You will need to have the diagnostic trouble codes scanned. Most any local auto parts dealer will do this for free. Just post the codes below once you have them.
My brother accidentally put steering fluid into the the part where the transmission fluids go. What do you suggest that he does?
Transmission Fluid Contamination
It would depend on how much and if the vehicle has been operated or not since this was done. If just a tiny amount of power steering fluid was added I wouldn’t worry to much about it. A tiny amount would be less than a 1/4 of a quart. The two fluids are not the same but that small of an amount shouldn’t make a difference. The automatic transmission holds only 3.2 quarts of fluid in it for this vehicle.
Now if 2 or 3 quarts of fluid where added and the vehicle was driven, then you may need to drain the system.
Automatic transmission fluids
Automatic transmission fluids can be broken down into two types, Dexron® III and Ford type F. These fluids are specific to the transmission using them. Don’t assume that all Ford vehicles use type F, they don’t!
Dexron® III, sometime referred to as multi-purpose ATF. This replaces the old Type A, Suffix A, was recommended by GM, Chrysler and AMC between 1956-1967. It also supercedes Dexron® and Dexron® II fluids. Ford vehicles 1977 and later with the C6 transmission or the Jatco transmission in the Granada and Monarch also use this fluid. Ford refers to this fluid as Mercon® , or transmissions where type H or CJ where recommended.
Type F fluid is recommended by Ford Motor Co. for most late model Fords and certain imports, and contains certain frictional compounds required for proper operation in these transmissions.
There is not much of a problem here, since the bottles are clearly marked to indicate the type of fluid. If you are in doubt, check your owner’s manual.
My T5 keeps over heating and blowing the coolant out of the header tank. When it overheats the fans in the car just blow cold air out even on the hottest temperature. When driving along there is some heat out the fans then it will get cold for a minute then get hot again. I had the head gasket done less than 12 months ago. Recently I have had a new coolant temp sensor, new thermostat and it has been in to the VW garage for the past week who cannot identify what the problem is! They have said it is maybe a blockage but not come up with where! Any help greatly appreciated.
From what you described it sounds like the coolant level is low or has air in the system. Of course if there is a leak internally or externally you will want to repair it right away. Keeping note as to how often the coolant level goes down is a good indicator of how big the leak is.
I have outlined some helpful diagnostics for an engine overheating situation.
My car loses power while I have the gas pedal down . What happens is the engine will start to decelerate as though I’ve taken my foot off the gas but my foot hasn’t moved off of the accelerator. Then I have to release and step on it again to regain speed. VW Polo 2006 model 1.4. I have changed the petrol pump,did the service on the car and even changed the Accelerator pedal My car is a manual transmission. Lately I noticed that the breather hose has a small cut on the small soft pipe that joins the thick one and it has a little bit of oil spill on it. Can that be a problem, we did a diagnostic and there’s no error code on the car.
Yes that can be a big part of your problem. Any leak in the hose will cause an issue.
This car is on the National emissions recall list. The other day, check engine light came on and I took it into VW dealer…ran a diagnostic and said I need a new Catalytic Converter. Can this be attributed to re-call for emissions ?
Yes it could, but not likely. A catalytic converter works or it doesn’t. The rear O2 Sensor reads the air/fuel burn and determines if the converter is doing its job or not. When it is not a check engine light is illuminated and the PCM stores a p0420 code.
Now since the VW manufacturer has cheated the electronics on the vehicle with programming it makes it possible. They could have changed the programming to reflect a different set of parameters to signal a converter failure. That being said, the manufacturer would have set the parameters in favor of the converter working better, not worse.
If YOUR vehicle has already undergone the recall reprogramming and repairs then NO. the Converter would not have anything else to do with it. Arguably, the converter would wear out earlier than expected due to more fuel being allowed to be burned throughout its life but I don’t think the courts are going to re-open the case.
If the vehicle has less than 100,000 miles on it the catalytic converter should be covered under manufacturer warranty. If it is over 100, 000 miles then it would not. As far as the re-call for emissions it depends on the recall notice for your specific year vehicle.
You can drive the car with a bad converter forever without any issue. The check engine light will stay on but no drivability issue will occur. The converter is required for emissions and only help air quality. It does not effect the vehicles ability to perform or not.
The good news is you can sell your car back to the VW dealer and receive a cash bonus on top of your trade in value. Or if you wish to keep it, repairs will be made to your vehicle. This is your choice as you can not get both.
VW Emissions Recall Settlement
As a result people who want to keep their cars, there will be a recall to bring the existing models up to regulations. The fix will likely be a software update for newer models. Pre-2015 cars are expected to need additional components installed—which may mean it takes longer to develop and deploy the solution.
I keep getting a code to “replace Crankcase Regulating Valve, but when I look for info on it I keep finding PCV valve. Is this the same thing? or a different part
Same function. Same part. Different name. Same thing. IT is a crankcase PRESSURE regulating valve. This allows the crankcase to vent pressure so it runs smoother. PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation.
A faulty PCV valve will allow pressurized intake air back into the valve cover/crankcase. This pressurized air can blow out several openings. The oil filler cap, air filter and dipstick should be checked for evidence of oil blow out.
Crankcase Regulating Valve/ PCV Testing
With the engine OFF, remove the engine cover and locate the hose connecting the intake manifold to the crankcase. Disconnect the hose from the intake manifold side and clean off any residue with a cloth. Blow into the hose and if there is some resistance then the check valve is operating correctly. If there is no resistance, then the PCV valve should be replaced.
In addition, with the engine running, disconnect the hose from the valve cover. Plug the hose and check idle quality. If the idle quality improves, replace the PCV valve.
Furthermore with the engine running, remove the dipstick. If the idle quality improves, replace the PCV valve.
Finally Remove the cap from the oil filler hole on the valve cover. Place a stiff piece of paper over the opening. The paper should be sucked against the hole and within a couple of seconds if the PCV is operating properly.