The Front Wheel Hub Assembly is going out and I have several Warning Lights showing. ABS, ABTRACK and 4 Wheel High Are all of these associated with the bad Hub?
Yes. The ABS Wheel Speed Sensor is located internally in the Hub Bearing Assembly.
I changed my calibers and now I have a grinding noise in the brakes. I tightened the wheel bearing but it came back.
Most likely the brake dust shield got accidentally bumped and it is rubbing against the brake rotors. A close inspection of all moving parts will be needed. If this only occurs when the brakes are applied, you may need to remove the calipers and inspect there. If the noise was there before you installed the calipers and it went away when you tightened the bearings, there may be an issue with the bearings.
Just had #4 fuel injector and spark plugs replaced. Added Gumout fuel injector cleaner to the next tank of gas as per directions. Time for a new tank of gas. Can I add another Gumout?
Yes, Shouldn’t need to add another but won’t hurt anything either. If you are using the Expert Series Gumout Fuel System Cleaner it is even advertised:
I’ve been dealing with a parking brake light always on. We changed all my sensors and re soldered the wiring harness at the instrument cluster. I follow the wire all the way to the parking brake sensor and still cant find where the problem could be.
You the provided wiring diagram to help diagnose your problem area.
*NOTE – the brake light will also illuminate when the brake fluid level is low or brake fluid level sensor is sticking. It will also illuminate if the park brake is not released completely. Sometimes this requires lifting up a bit on the park brake.
What is the body code B2340?
Found no listing in the Repair Manuals for code B2340. Searched around and came across the following.
B2340 – Column Reach Motor Stalled
Source: Engine-codes.com, troublecodes.net/bcodes/
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B2340 Ford Husky DTC Meaning
B Body Code – Problem is antilock brake system, electronic suspension and steering systems.
2 MFG – Manufacturer Specific
3 IC Module 4X Ref Circuit Intermittent, No Pulses
4 Control Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
0 Transmission Engaged At High Throttle Angle
Source: http://enginedtc.com/b2340-ford-thunderbird
Hello, I have some sort of electrical issue with my 2011 Ford Fiesta battery light. Upon starting the vehicle around 15 to 30 seconds in the battery/charge light illuminates exactly like clockwork every start. Also when this occurs it pulls the engine slightly nothing major. And if the rear defogger is on it will kick off and wont come back on. I purchased this auto in March has 118,000 miles I am the second owner it is in very good condition as the previous owner was a female and she purchased it new. The Alternator is good and battery also under a load its at 13.8 volt and off its 12.6 volts. I am stumped any input or advice is very welcome. Thanks
The guys at fixya would have you do the following:
Sounds good, but looking at the wiring diagram you can clearly see there are no fusible links. Only one 450A Mega Fuse.
I turn my Air Conditioning on max, or any other setting and cold air comes out the main middle vent for about a minute. Then it quits and the air comes out of the defrost vents for a few minutes. And them it starts coming out of the main vent again for just a few minutes to the top and comes out of the defrost vents only. This cycle continues. What is the problem? Thanks for your time. Jeff Duty
The system is designed to divert to defrost when the control panel looses vacuum and this is usually caused by a vacuum leak in the supply line to the controller. Start by locating the vacuum reservoir under the dash on the passenger side and make sure the hose is connected and has good vacuum to it.
The reservoir is #2 in the diagram. If you find good vacuum at the reservoir and no leaks then the control panel will need to be remove and further testing done.
| Item | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | W701696 | Vacuum reservoir screw |
| 2 | 19A566 | Vacuum reservoir |
| 3 | — | Vacuum connector (part of 18C581) |
My question has to do with a/c clutch on the compressor. it fell off. AC Clutch Inspection shows bolt holding the clutch in place broke off with some of it lodged in the compressor. It had to break off for a reason. Is the compressor shaft stuck so that it won’t turn. or just a bad bolt?
In most cases the air conditioning systems AC clutch failure is caused from bearing failure. When the bearings start to fail it creates excessive heat. The excessive heat may damage other parts of the compressor. This can cause internal o-rings to become damaged as well. My automotive advice is to replace the entire compressor assembly.
My 1994 Ford Explorer started getting a little hard to start about a week ago sometimes. Usually after it has been running for awhile. It did not overheat. But this morning it wouldn’t start at all, it turns over good but acts like it’s out of gas, but it’s not. I let it sit a few hours and it started but then wouldn’t start again after I let it run a few minutes. It is getting air but don’t know about fuel or spark.
Sounds like you are are the right track with your diagnostics. Here is a no start diagnostic chart that may help you with issue.
I’m trying to start it after it has been sitting for 2 years. I tried to jump-start but starter doesn’t operate. I will check engine crankshaft rotation w/ plugs removed & replace the battery. Is there a way to test the starter without removing it? Where is the neutral cutout switch on this pickup?
Make sure your battery is GOOD and fully charged before testing. The neutral switch is located on the side of the transmission.With the vehicle being so old it may be necessary to check and clean the electrical connections.
