I don’t use 4wd very often. So I switched it into 4wd on the way home from work this evening as I understood this should be done every so often to keep the solinoids and things operating. I was on a straight road and when I changed it over and it started to make a loud, strange noise that I can’t describe very well, maybe a howl, maybe like gears. So I then turned it back to 2wd and the dash said it was changed but it was still making the noise until I made a turn. I did this twice more on the way home with the same results.
Once home I crawled underneath to see if there was anything to see. vacuum lines were in place and nothing else seemed out of the ordinary. I took it for another drive with the same results, but this time I left it in 4wd for awhile longer to see if it worked it self out. It then made 2 very loud thumps that felt as if they were coming from directly beneath me. I changed it back to 2 wd and once the noise started it seems fine again.
Check Fluid Level
The thing to check would be the front differential fluid level. If the fluid level is low it will make a roaring noise. Next top the fluid level off and test it again.
Check your Joints
As for disengaging the 4×4 sometimes the vehicle needs to be driven in reverse about 10 feet for it to release properly. This is normal.The light changes to allow you to know it received the request to do so.
As for the odd noises and popping, this too is normal when trying to operate the vehicle in 4×4 on DRY paved roads. The tires will grabIf these noises seem to be excessive you will want to also check you front drive shaft u-joints. Then check your front axle shaft joints.
What are they calling a multi switch for the head lights ? Is it the dimmer controal switch?
The headlight switch is called the headlight switch. The turn signal arm(with wiper and high/low beam function) is referred to as a multi-function switch. In your case it would also include the Hazard function.
According to the Repair Manual the headlight switch is located on the dash panel.
How to replace the multi-function switch
Multi-Function Switch, Replace
Insert ignition key into ignition switch lock cylinder and turn to RUN position.
Push ignition switch lock cylinder release tab, Fig. 1, using suitable punch while pulling outward on ignition switch lock cylinder.
Twist tilt wheel handle and shank counterclockwise, then remove shank.
When driving in a bad snow storm should I leave the Positraction on full time or should I let the car turn it on when it is needed?
Your vehicle is not equipped with “Positraction” that I am aware of. Nor could I find any reference in the manuals. It may however be equipped with traction control. During the winter months and pretty much anytime you are driving leaving the traction control ON would be best.
What is Traction Control?
Traction Control monitors the speed of the vehicle and the speed of each wheel to determine if the tire is about to slip. It then applies the brakes with the use of the ABS system to prevent the tires from slipping. This can be benificial on wet and or icy roads.
Traction Control when turned off allows the tires to spin or slip. Say you want to spin your tires or hear them squeal, you will need to turn OFF the traction control.
ABS w/Traction Control & Stability Assist
The four wheel anti-lock brake system with traction control and stability assist consists of the following components: brake booster release switch, front and rear ABS sensors and sensor indicators, hydraulic control unit, stability assist event indicator, stability assist module, lateral accelerometer, steering wheel position sensor, transducers, trac control switch, yaw rate sensor and the yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator.
The stability assist system communicates with the PCM. The PCM assists with traction control by altering engine timing and fuel injector pulse. By altering engine timing and fuel injector pulse, the PCM can control torque, which in turn reduces excessive wheel spin. At speeds above 25 mph, traction control is controlled only by PCM command of engine torque output. At speeds up to 25 mph, the stability assist module requests the PCM to reduce engine torque while simultaneously applying and releasing appropriate brake to restore traction when one or both drive wheels lose traction and begin to spin.
The stability assist system continuously monitors vehicle motion relative to the driver’s intended course. The driver’s intended course is calculated by using sensors to compare steering inputs from driver with actual motion of the vehicle. The driver’s steering wheel input is measured from a steering wheel rotation sensor. Vehicle motion is determined using a yaw rate sensor which measures rotation about the vehicle axis, a lateral accelerometer which measures acceleration generated from the vehicle sliding sideways and wheel speed sensors which measure speed of each individual wheel. If there is a discrepancy between driver input and vehicle motion, the stability assist system changes the force at each tire to help control the vehicle.
Stability Assist System
The stability assist system defaults to on when the engine is started. Stability assist is not active when the vehicle is traveling in reverse, however ABS and traction control are still functional. System status is indicated in the stability assist warning lamp located in the stability assist/traction control switch. Stability assist is an independent function of ABS. The illumination of the stability assist/traction control switch indicates that the stability assist function is off and that ABS will continue to operate normally.
When the stability assist system is attempting to correct vehicle direction, the following normal conditions may be present: rumble or grinding sound; deceleration or reduction in acceleration of vehicle; ABS indicator may flash; vibration in brake pedal; brake pedal may move to apply higher brake forces accompanied by whoosh sound from beneath instrument panel. Also, the brake pedal may experience a slight movement when the system self-check is performed. The self-check is performed after the vehicle reaches a speed of 30 mph after 8 minutes of running time. Self-check will only be performed if the vehicle is stable, driver is not braking and accelerator pedal is depressed. If a failure is detected, the stability assist indicator will be illuminated. Anti-lock brake system will continue to function normally unless the yellow ABS warning indicator is illuminated. Normal brake function will continue to occur unless the red brake warning indicator is illuminated.
A week ago I got my rebuilt transmission back from Monster Transmissions and finally got the bastard in and now its leaking transmission fluid from both coolant lines going into transmission. I have tried flaring new lines myself, but no luck…still leaking. Wtf could be going on? It wasn’t doing this pre-rebuilt. Thanks in advance
Make sure the lines are being inserted into the mounting inserts. If they are missing they will need to be replaced. If this are attached with quick disconnect lines, the plastic inserts may need to be replaced along with an o-ring seal. Did you have to use the Quick Disconnect tool 307-441 shown below?
I’m working on a 351 Cleaveland engine by Ford, and cannot move the distributor. I don’t need to remove it, just twist it to adjust the timing. I’ve loosened the bolt and used lubricant, as well as some force, but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
My first thought for anything that is stuck is to use heat and work it slowly. If you are going to use a spray, I recommend “Blaster PB Penetrating oil” (PB Blaster). Chisel and Hammer are the last resort but may be necessary.
Here are some ideas from around the web.
WD-40 is a solvent and it won’t hurt to try it. Just keep soaking it and the rubber hammer on the vac advance is probably better than trying to turn the housing with something.
Try pulling it up and out. First mark where the rotor is aimed. When you get the dizzy up and out,then clean the base, and reinstall with rotor ending up in the original position it was in before you yanked it.
In one shop I worked, 390 Fords were famous for stuck distributors. One mechanic would get the engine hot, give the base of the distributor a blast from a CO2 fire extinguisher, I was awed, it worked. He did shoot the extinguisher under a towel so there was no mess. No good on a non-running engine though…
Source: Bob
Build a dam around it with putty and fill it with vinegar. The vinegar is acidic and dissolves the corroded aluminum. If it doesn’t work after you’ve tried the solvent, brake fluid, brake clean, etc then its hammer and chisel time although I did get one out with a slide hammer and steel strap around the housing.
There are different things that make different noises. Noises are one of the most difficult issues to describe and sometimes locate. Instead of just guessing, which is about all you can do without actually looking at it, we will focus on the most common cause.
The universal joint(U-Joint) going out would be the most common cause for this sort of issue. Eventually you will heard the noise when moving from forward to reverse and from reverse to forward as they get worse.
DRIVESHAFT U-JOINT, Replace
Single Cardan, Slip Yoke
Disassemble
Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the shaft in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localizing fracture can result, causing shaft failure during vehicle operation. Place the shaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube. If components are not marked and installed incorrectly, driveline imbalance can occur.
1. Index-mark the shaft components.
2. Remove and discard all four snap rings.
3. Clamp bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent in a vise.
4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove a bearing cup that fails to press out all the way. Remove bearing cups and driveshaft slip-yoke as follows:
a. Position driveshaft slip-yoke in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.
b. Press out bearing cup.
c. Rotate driveshaft slip-yoke 180 degrees.
d. Press on spider to remove remaining bearing cup.
e. Remove driveshaft slip-yoke.
5. Repeat bearing cup removal in this procedure to remove remaining bearing cups and spider from shaft.
6. Clean yoke area at end of shaft.
Assemble
Install the Universal Joint Kits as complete assemblies only. Do not mix components from other kits.
1. Install new spider and bearing cup.
a. Start new bearing cup in shaft yoke.
b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.
c. Position new spider in shaft yoke.
d. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.
2. Install yellow snap rings supplied in kit to assemble universal joint. If difficulty is encountered with yellow snap rings, install black snap rings. Remove shaft from bearing cup removal tool No 205-086 or equivalent, and install new snap ring.
3. Repeat bearing cup installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup and snap ring on opposite side of shaft yoke.
4. Inspect driveshaft slip-yoke. Install a new yoke, if necessary.
5. Install driveshaft slip-yoke and new bearing cup.
a. Start new bearing cup in driveshaft slip-yoke.
b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.
c. Position driveshaft slip-yoke on spider.
d. Position assembly in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.
e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.
6. Remove shaft from special tool, and install new snap ring.
7. Repeat slip-yoke installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup and snap ring on opposite side of driveshaft slip-yoke.
8. Check U-joint for freedom of movement. If binding, strike the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. Do not strike the bearings.
9. Torque front propeller shaft to front axle bolts to 15 ft. lbs.
10. Torque front propeller shaft transfer case pinion flange to driveshaft bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
11. Torque rear propeller shaft to rear axle bolts to 75 ft. lbs.
12. Torque rear propeller shaft to transfer case bolts to 40 ft. lbs.
Single Cardan, Flange Yoke
Disassemble
Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the shaft in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localizing fracture can result, causing shaft failure during vehicle operation. Place the shaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube. If components are not marked and installed incorrectly, driveline imbalance can occur.
1. Index-mark the shaft components.
2. Remove and discard all four snap rings.
3. Clamp bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent in a vise.
4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove a bearing cup that fails to press out all the way. Remove bearing cups and driveshaft flange as follows:
a. Position driveshaft flange in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.
b. Press out bearing cup.
c. Rotate driveshaft flange 180 degrees.
d. Press on spider to remove remaining bearing cup.
e. Remove driveshaft flange.
5. Repeat bearing cup removal in this procedure to remove remaining bearing cups and spider from shaft.
6. Clean yoke area at end of shaft.
Assemble
Install the Universal Joint Kits as complete assemblies only. Do not mix components from other kits.
1. Install new spider and bearing cup.
a. Start new bearing cup in shaft yoke.
b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.
c. Position new spider in shaft yoke.
d. Position driveshaft yoke in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.
e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.
2. Repeat to install new bearing cup on opposite side of driveshaft yoke.
3. Inspect driveshaft flange. Install a new flange, if necessary.
4. Install driveshaft flange and new bearing cups.
a. Start new bearing cup in driveshaft flange.
b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.
c. Position driveshaft flange on spider.
d. Position assembly in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.
e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.
5. Repeat flange installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup on opposite side of driveshaft flange.
6. Install yellow snap rings supplied in kit to assemble universal joint. If difficulty is encountered with yellow snap rings, install black snap rings. Remove shaft from bearing cup removal tool No 205-086 or equivalent, and install four new snap rings.
7. Check U-joint for freedom of movement. If binding, strike the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. Do not strike the bearings.
8. Torque front propeller shaft to front axle bolts to 15 ft. lbs.
9. Torque front propeller shaft transfer case pinion flange to driveshaft bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
10. Torque rear propeller shaft to rear axle bolts to 75 ft. lbs.
11. Torque rear propeller shaft to transfer case bolts to 40 ft. lbs.
When I pull my camper it gets to the very high end of the temp. still inside the normal range but almost hot. When I first got my truck it didn’t have that problem, it ran in the middle. It is a 1997 Ford F250 with a 7.5L engine.
I will assume the coolant level is full and the cooling system has no leaks.
A couple of things come to mind on this one. First the clutch fan may be getting weak and in need of replacement. It take about a hour to swap it out. Any obstruction in front of the radiator would also contribute the issue. Lastly I would want to confirm the temperature reading is accurate. It is possible that the coolant temperature sending unit is not functioning correctly.
Clutch Fan Failing
Radiator air flow obstructed
Faulty coolant temperature reading
Temperature Gun
You can check the engine coolant temperature with an external infra red temperature gun. You can pick one up reasonably cheap at amazon for under $20.
Just aim it at the engine head or upper radiator hose to check the temperature.
Clutch Fan
Clutch fan can also be picked up pretty reasonable for under $40 and like i mentioned earlier, it takes about an hour to swap it out.
My car wont start, all lights work. I’ve had battery and alternator tested, they both were good. I don’t know whats wrong. When I try to cut the car on its silent.
Sorry to hear you are having such trouble. In general, when you turn the ignition key and hear one click it means the starter needs replaced. When you hear multiple clicks(click, click, click, click), it means the battery is dead, weak. When you hear nothing at all it means bad battery, poor connections at the battery or a failed starter.
I would say in worse case scenario the Starter and Battery will need to be replaced. But there is still hope for an easy and money saving cause. Your specific vehicle starting system is equipped with a STARTER RELAY that function between the ignition switch and starter. This would be a the best case scenario as it is less expensive and easy to get to.
The starter relay is located in the battery junction box. Also wouldn’t hurt to confirm the fuse(F10) that supplies power to the STARTER RELAY is good.
I have a 2000 ford explorer with a v6 4.0 L. check engine light came on and it says its running lean on bank 1 and 2. What do I need to fix it and will it hurt the car to drive it?
The most common cause for this issue on this specific vehicle would be a vacuum leak. Specifically a cracked intake manifold. There is a TSB on this issue. Confirming the leak would be the first step. you can do this with the use of a smoke machine as recommended in the TSB. Or you may spray starting fluid along the intake with the engine running. As for driving it like this, go ahead. You will just have horrible fuel mileage until you get it fixed.
Ford Code P0171 – Fuel System Too Lean
Trouble Code Conditions:
Engine started, engine running at cruise speed for 3 to 4 minutes, and the PCM detected the Bank 1 Adaptive Fuel Control System reached its rich correction limit (a lean A/F condition).
Code P0171 Possible Causes:
Air leaks after the MAF sensor, or leaks in the PCV system
Exhaust leaks before or near where the HO2S is mounted
Fuel injector(s) restricted or not supplying enough fuel
*Fuel pump not supplying enough fuel during high fuel demand conditions
Leaking EGR gasket, or leaking EGR valve diaphragm
MAF sensor dirty (causes PCM to underestimate airflow)
Vehicle running out of fuel or engine oil dip stick not seated
Carefully inspect the following areas for potential air leaks:
Hoses connecting to MAF sensor assembly.
Hoses connecting to throttle body.
Intake manifold gasket leaks.
PCV disconnected.
Vacuum lines disconnected.
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick, tube, and oil fill cap.
Connect an ABS scan tool or code reader to the data link connector under the dash and read the ABS Codes. Once you have the codes it will guide you to the root of the problem. Could be as simple as a faulty wheel speed sensor or bad ground.
What are they calling a multi switch for the head lights ? Is it the dimmer controal switch?
