I changed my calibers and now I have a grinding noise in the brakes. I tightened the wheel bearing but it came back.
Most likely the brake dust shield got accidentally bumped and it is rubbing against the brake rotors. A close inspection of all moving parts will be needed. If this only occurs when the brakes are applied, you may need to remove the calipers and inspect there. If the noise was there before you installed the calipers and it went away when you tightened the bearings, there may be an issue with the bearings.
I’ve been dealing with a parking brake light always on. We changed all my sensors and re soldered the wiring harness at the instrument cluster. I follow the wire all the way to the parking brake sensor and still cant find where the problem could be.
Parking brake light always on
You the provided wiring diagram to help diagnose your problem area.
*NOTE – the brake light will also illuminate when the brake fluid level is low or brake fluid level sensor is sticking. It will also illuminate if the park brake is not released completely. Sometimes this requires lifting up a bit on the park brake.
Parking Brake Light Switch wiring diagram – 2007 Ford F150
B Body Code – Problem is antilock brake system, electronic suspension and steering systems.
2 MFG – Manufacturer Specific
3 IC Module 4X Ref Circuit Intermittent, No Pulses
4 Control Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
0 Transmission Engaged At High Throttle Angle
Hello, I have some sort of electrical issue with my 2011 Ford Fiesta battery light. Upon starting the vehicle around 15 to 30 seconds in the battery/charge light illuminates exactly like clockwork every start. Also when this occurs it pulls the engine slightly nothing major. And if the rear defogger is on it will kick off and wont come back on. I purchased this auto in March has 118,000 miles I am the second owner it is in very good condition as the previous owner was a female and she purchased it new. The Alternator is good and battery also under a load its at 13.8 volt and off its 12.6 volts. I am stumped any input or advice is very welcome. Thanks
The guys at fixya would have you do the following:
check the dash connection.
also if you have a multi-meter, check the voltage as it could be a bad earth or the main fuse for the alternator is blown. on the main wire near the connection there might be a fuse, if the alternator fails it will blow this before it gets to the battery. called fusible link .
Sounds good, but looking at the wiring diagram you can clearly see there are no fusible links. Only one 450A Mega Fuse.
I turn my Air Conditioning on max, or any other setting and cold air comes out the main middle vent for about a minute. Then it quits and the air comes out of the defrost vents for a few minutes. And them it starts coming out of the main vent again for just a few minutes to the top and comes out of the defrost vents only. This cycle continues. What is the problem? Thanks for your time. Jeff Duty
The system is designed to divert to defrost when the control panel looses vacuum and this is usually caused by a vacuum leak in the supply line to the controller. Start by locating the vacuum reservoir under the dash on the passenger side and make sure the hose is connected and has good vacuum to it.
The reservoir is #2 in the diagram. If you find good vacuum at the reservoir and no leaks then the control panel will need to be remove and further testing done.
My question has to do with a/c clutch on the compressor. it fell off. AC Clutch Inspection shows bolt holding the clutch in place broke off with some of it lodged in the compressor. It had to break off for a reason. Is the compressor shaft stuck so that it won’t turn. or just a bad bolt?
AC Compressor Clutch Failure
In most cases the air conditioning systems AC clutch failure is caused from bearing failure. When the bearings start to fail it creates excessive heat. The excessive heat may damage other parts of the compressor. This can cause internal o-rings to become damaged as well. My automotive advice is to replace the entire compressor assembly.
My 1994 Ford Explorer started getting a little hard to start about a week ago sometimes. Usually after it has been running for awhile. It did not overheat. But this morning it wouldn’t start at all, it turns over good but acts like it’s out of gas, but it’s not. I let it sit a few hours and it started but then wouldn’t start again after I let it run a few minutes. It is getting air but don’t know about fuel or spark.
Sounds like you are are the right track with your diagnostics. Here is a no start diagnostic chart that may help you with issue.
I’m trying to start it after it has been sitting for 2 years. I tried to jump-start but starter doesn’t operate. I will check engine crankshaft rotation w/ plugs removed & replace the battery. Is there a way to test the starter without removing it? Where is the neutral cutout switch on this pickup?
Make sure your battery is GOOD and fully charged before testing. The neutral switch is located on the side of the transmission.With the vehicle being so old it may be necessary to check and clean the electrical connections.
View of the Borg-Warner model 13-54 with mechanical shift. Electronic shift and model 44-05 are similar
Transfer Case Identification
There are three transfer cases used on the Ranger, Explorer and Mountaineer. There are 2 versions of the Borg Warner 13-54 (mechanical shift and electronic shift), a Borg Warner 44-05 (Control Trac) and an All Wheel Drive (AWD) transfer case.
The Borg Warner 13-54, mechanical shift transfer case, is a 3-piece aluminum part time unit. It transfers power from the transmission to the rear axle and when actuated, also the front drive axle. The unit is lubricated by a positive displacement oil pump that channels oil flow through drilled holes in the rear output shaft. The pump turns with the rear output shaft and allows towing of the vehicle at maximum legal road speeds for extended distances without disconnecting the front and/or rear driveshaft.
Electronic Shift Transfer Case
The Borg Warner 13-54, electronic shift transfer case, transfers power from the transmission to the rear axle and also the front drive axle, when electronically actuated.
This system consists of a push button control, an electronic control module, an electric shift motor with an integral shift position sensor and a speed sensor.
The electric shift motor, mounted externally at the rear of the transfer case, drives a rotary helical cam. The cam moves the 2WD-4WD shift fork and 4H-4L reduction shift fork to the selected vehicle drive position. The system has no select-able Neutral (N) setting.
NOTE: The manufacturer recommends that the Borg Warner 13-54 transfer case equipped vehicles should not be operated in 4WD (whether HI or LOW) mode on dry pavement. Severe drive line torsional wind-up will occur, possibly damaging the drivetrain components.
The Borg Warner 44-05 transfer case operates in the same manner as the 13-54, except that it also houses a transfer case clutch. This clutch, which is controlled by the Generic Control Module (GEM), enables the vehicle to be driven in 4-wheel drive on dry pavement by cycling the clutch to compensate for different front and rear driveshaft speeds (as in turning). The system has a dealer install-able Neutral (N) position mode.
The All Wheel Drive (AWD) transfer case is a 2-piece aluminum, chain driven, viscous clutch type unit. The AWD transfer case is always active in 4-wheel drive, thus producing a full-time engagement. The viscous clutch automatically distributes power to both the front and rear wheels, depending on need.