Charge system Light on 2013 Ford Taurus 3.5 engine

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Nov 052019
 

2013 Ford Taurus

Charge system light keeps coming on I have replaced the battery and the alternator do you have any other suggestions?



Battery Light On

Have you put a volt meter on it with the engine running to insure the system is charging? Tested the battery(new ones can be bad too)?

First i would test the fusible links. There are two, Fusible link A & B. You may want to refer to the wiring diagram below. Next the wiring and connections would be the next things to rule out once the battery and alternator has been eliminated.

Alternator wiring diagram 2013 Ford Taurus

2013-frod-taurus-alternator-wiring-diagram

Intermittent alternator failure testing

1994 ford f150 5.8 4×4 Distributor wiring issue

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Nov 052019
 

1994 Ford F150 XLT

I’ve put a 89 5.8 engine in the truck, the distributor has a different connector, & only 4 wires. The trucks original connector has 6 wires. Can i hard wire it together?

Putting an 89 5.8L engine in, distributor connections not the same, can i cut them off & hard wire them together? But the trucks connector has 6 wires,& & tbis different engine distributor has 4 wires?



I would recommend using the wiring and ignition system from the 1994 Ford F150 with the 1989 engine. No wire cutting needed.

Remove the distributor cap and mark where the rotor is pointing now and where it is pointing once pulled. Then install the other distributor in the same manner. This will prevent any timing issues moving forward.

1989 Ford 5.8L Engine Distributor Wiring Diagram

1989 Ford F150 5.8L engine distributor wiring diagram

1994 Ford 5.8L Engine Distributor Wiring Diagram

1994 Ford F150 5.8 L engine distributor wiring diagram

Clanking noise when put in gear 2007 Ford Five Hundred

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Oct 292019
 

2007-ford-five-hundred

what could cause my car to sound like clanking wind when put into gear ?(engine turns over and runs great BTW) and does not seem to be fully engaged into gear. When I jacked up both front wheels to inspect the CV joints, drive lines, wheel bearing ECt, if I rotate each wheel fwd and rvs. As soon as I set it down and put into gear it will engage but the slightest bit of stress pops it out of gear.?? Thank you and what can I do to figure it out?



Close to checking what I would but go a step further. Jack the car up and put it securely on jack stands so that the wheels can move freely. Put the car in gear while on jack stands and inspect.

Sounds like the cv shaft is damaged or not seated completely.

Has the vehicle been worked on recently??

4×4 making loud strange noise 2012 F150 4wd 5.0l

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Oct 222019
 

2012 Ford F150

I don’t use 4wd very often. So I switched it into 4wd on the way home from work this evening as I understood this should be done every so often to keep the solinoids and things operating. I was on a straight road and when I changed it over and it started to make a loud, strange noise that I can’t describe very well, maybe a howl, maybe like gears. So I then turned it back to 2wd and the dash said it was changed but it was still making the noise until I made a turn. I did this twice more on the way home with the same results.

Once home I crawled underneath to see if there was anything to see. vacuum lines were in place and nothing else seemed out of the ordinary. I took it for another drive with the same results, but this time I left it in 4wd for awhile longer to see if it worked it self out. It then made 2 very loud thumps that felt as if they were coming from directly beneath me. I changed it back to 2 wd and once the noise started it seems fine again.



Check Fluid Level

The thing to check would be the front differential fluid level. If the fluid level is low it will make a roaring noise. Next top the fluid level off and test it again.

Check your Joints

As for disengaging the 4×4 sometimes the vehicle needs to be driven in reverse about 10 feet for it to release properly. This is normal.The light changes to allow you to know it received the request to do so.

As for the odd noises and popping, this too is normal when trying to operate the vehicle in 4×4 on DRY paved roads. The tires will grabIf these noises seem to be excessive you will want to also check you front drive shaft u-joints. Then check your front axle shaft joints.

Multi-function Switch 2003 Ford Sport Trac XLT

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Oct 222019
 

Ford Explorer Sport TracWhat are they calling a multi switch for the head lights ? Is it the dimmer controal switch?



The headlight switch is called the headlight switch. The turn signal arm(with wiper and high/low beam function) is referred to as a multi-function switch. In your case it would also include the Hazard function.

According to the Repair Manual the headlight switch is located on the dash panel.

How to replace the multi-function switch

Multi-Function Switch, Replace

  1. Insert ignition key into ignition switch lock cylinder and turn to RUN position.
  2. Push ignition switch lock cylinder release tab, Fig. 1, using suitable punch while pulling outward on ignition switch lock cylinder.
  3. Twist tilt wheel handle and shank counterclockwise, then remove shank.
  4. Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  5. Disconnect multi-function switch electrical connectors.
  6. Remove multi-function switch retaining screws, then the switch.
  7. Reverse procedure to install.

2003-ford-explorer-sport-trac-multi-function-switch-removal-diagram

Labor Time

Labor Time to replace the Multi-function switch is 1.3 hours.

Traction Control 2011 Ford Focus

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Oct 082019
 

Ford Focus

When driving in a bad snow storm should I leave the Positraction on full time or should I let the car turn it on when it is needed?



Your vehicle is not equipped with “Positraction” that I am aware of. Nor could I find any reference in the manuals. It may however be equipped with traction control. During the winter months and pretty much anytime you are driving leaving the traction control ON would be best.

What is Traction Control?

Traction Control monitors the speed of the vehicle and the speed of each wheel to determine if the tire is about to slip. It then applies the brakes with the use of the ABS system to prevent the tires from slipping. This can be benificial on wet and or icy roads.

Traction Control when turned off allows the tires to spin or slip. Say you want to spin your tires or hear them squeal, you will need to turn OFF the traction control.

ABS w/Traction Control & Stability Assist

The four wheel anti-lock brake system with traction control and stability assist consists of the following components: brake booster release switch, front and rear ABS sensors and sensor indicators, hydraulic control unit, stability assist event indicator, stability assist module, lateral accelerometer, steering wheel position sensor, transducers, trac control switch, yaw rate sensor and the yellow anti-lock brake warning indicator.

The stability assist system communicates with the PCM. The PCM assists with traction control by altering engine timing and fuel injector pulse. By altering engine timing and fuel injector pulse, the PCM can control torque, which in turn reduces excessive wheel spin. At speeds above 25 mph, traction control is controlled only by PCM command of engine torque output. At speeds up to 25 mph, the stability assist module requests the PCM to reduce engine torque while simultaneously applying and releasing appropriate brake to restore traction when one or both drive wheels lose traction and begin to spin.

The stability assist system continuously monitors vehicle motion relative to the driver’s intended course. The driver’s intended course is calculated by using sensors to compare steering inputs from driver with actual motion of the vehicle. The driver’s steering wheel input is measured from a steering wheel rotation sensor. Vehicle motion is determined using a yaw rate sensor which measures rotation about the vehicle axis, a lateral accelerometer which measures acceleration generated from the vehicle sliding sideways and wheel speed sensors which measure speed of each individual wheel. If there is a discrepancy between driver input and vehicle motion, the stability assist system changes the force at each tire to help control the vehicle.

Stability Assist System

The stability assist system defaults to on when the engine is started. Stability assist is not active when the vehicle is traveling in reverse, however ABS and traction control are still functional. System status is indicated in the stability assist warning lamp located in the stability assist/traction control switch. Stability assist is an independent function of ABS. The illumination of the stability assist/traction control switch indicates that the stability assist function is off and that ABS will continue to operate normally.

When the stability assist system is attempting to correct vehicle direction, the following normal conditions may be present: rumble or grinding sound; deceleration or reduction in acceleration of vehicle; ABS indicator may flash; vibration in brake pedal; brake pedal may move to apply higher brake forces accompanied by whoosh sound from beneath instrument panel. Also, the brake pedal may experience a slight movement when the system self-check is performed. The self-check is performed after the vehicle reaches a speed of 30 mph after 8 minutes of running time. Self-check will only be performed if the vehicle is stable, driver is not braking and accelerator pedal is depressed. If a failure is detected, the stability assist indicator will be illuminated. Anti-lock brake system will continue to function normally unless the yellow ABS warning indicator is illuminated. Normal brake function will continue to occur unless the red brake warning indicator is illuminated.

Transmission lines are leaking 2007 Ford F150 5.4L v8 2wd

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Oct 052019
 

1997 Ford F150

A week ago I got my rebuilt transmission back from Monster Transmissions and finally got the bastard in and now its leaking transmission fluid from both coolant lines going into transmission. I have tried flaring new lines myself, but no luck…still leaking. Wtf could be going on? It wasn’t doing this pre-rebuilt. Thanks in advance



Make sure the lines are being inserted into the mounting inserts. If they are missing they will need to be replaced. If this are attached with quick disconnect lines, the plastic inserts may need to be replaced along with an o-ring seal. Did you have to use the Quick Disconnect tool 307-441 shown below?

The Motor Manual

Trans Oil Cooler Line, Replace

transmission-cooler-line-connector

1. Disconnect vehicle ground cable from battery. Record customer preset settings. Record radio anti-theft code if required.
2. Lift and support vehicle using a suitable lift.
3. Disconnect fluid cooler tube from any retainers.
4. Remove any fasteners retaining tube routing brackets, if equipped.
5. Place a suitable container under trans end of cooler lines.
6. Disconnect each fluid cooler tube from trans, as required.
7. Let fluid drain into container until fluid drips slowly from tube.
8. Plug ends of tubes and trans ports to prevent excess leakage.
9. Place suitable container under cooler end of cooler lines.
10. Disconnect each fluid cooler tube from cooler, as required.
11. Let fluid drain into container until fluid drips slowly from tube and cooler.
12. Visually inspect cooler lines from cooler to trans for any components that may hinder removal of lines. Remove or move aside any components that will hinder removal.
13. Remove trans cooler lines.
14. Reverse procedure to install, note following:
a. Fill transmission to correct level with clean automatic transmission fluid.
b. Inspect for leaks, correct any found.

Continue reading »

Distributor Stuck 1973 Ford Mach 1 Mustang

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Oct 052019
 

Ford Distributor Stuck

Hi All,

I’m working on a 351 Cleaveland engine by Ford, and cannot move the distributor. I don’t need to remove it, just twist it to adjust the timing. I’ve loosened the bolt and used lubricant, as well as some force, but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.



My first thought for anything that is stuck is to use heat and work it slowly. If you are going to use a spray, I recommend “Blaster PB Penetrating oil” (PB Blaster). Chisel and Hammer are the last resort but may be necessary.

Here are some ideas from around the web.

  • WD-40 is a solvent and it won’t hurt to try it. Just keep soaking it and the rubber hammer on the vac advance is probably better than trying to turn the housing with something.
  • Try pulling it up and out. First mark where the rotor is aimed. When you get the dizzy up and out,then clean the base, and reinstall with rotor ending up in the original position it was in before you yanked it.
  • In one shop I worked, 390 Fords were famous for stuck distributors. One mechanic would get the engine hot, give the base of the distributor a blast from a CO2 fire extinguisher, I was awed, it worked. He did shoot the extinguisher under a towel so there was no mess. No good on a non-running engine though…

Source: Bob

Build a dam around it with putty and fill it with vinegar. The vinegar is acidic and dissolves the corroded aluminum. If it doesn’t work after you’ve tried the solvent, brake fluid, brake clean, etc then its hammer and chisel time although I did get one out with a slide hammer and steel strap around the housing.

2004 Ford Explorer U-joint noise from back

 Auto Repair Questions, Ford  Comments Off on 2004 Ford Explorer U-joint noise from back
Oct 022019
 

2004 Ford Explorer

When I shift my car in reverse I hear a loud kick back kind of like knicking coming from the back tires



There are different things that make different noises. Noises are one of the most difficult issues to describe and sometimes locate. Instead of just guessing, which is about all you can do without actually looking at it, we will focus on the most common cause.

The universal joint(U-Joint) going out would be the most common cause for this sort of issue. Eventually you will heard the noise when moving from forward to reverse and from reverse to forward as they get worse.

DRIVESHAFT U-JOINT, Replace

Single Cardan, Slip Yoke

Disassemble

Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the shaft in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localizing fracture can result, causing shaft failure during vehicle operation. Place the shaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube. If components are not marked and installed incorrectly, driveline imbalance can occur.

1. Index-mark the shaft components.

2. Remove and discard all four snap rings.

3. Clamp bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent in a vise.

4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove a bearing cup that fails to press out all the way. Remove bearing cups and driveshaft slip-yoke as follows:

a. Position driveshaft slip-yoke in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

b. Press out bearing cup.

c. Rotate driveshaft slip-yoke 180 degrees.

d. Press on spider to remove remaining bearing cup.

e. Remove driveshaft slip-yoke.

5. Repeat bearing cup removal in this procedure to remove remaining bearing cups and spider from shaft.

6. Clean yoke area at end of shaft.

Assemble

Install the Universal Joint Kits as complete assemblies only. Do not mix components from other kits.

1. Install new spider and bearing cup.

a. Start new bearing cup in shaft yoke.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position new spider in shaft yoke.

d. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

2. Install yellow snap rings supplied in kit to assemble universal joint. If difficulty is encountered with yellow snap rings, install black snap rings. Remove shaft from bearing cup removal tool No 205-086 or equivalent, and install new snap ring.

3. Repeat bearing cup installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup and snap ring on opposite side of shaft yoke.

4. Inspect driveshaft slip-yoke. Install a new yoke, if necessary.

5. Install driveshaft slip-yoke and new bearing cup.

a. Start new bearing cup in driveshaft slip-yoke.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position driveshaft slip-yoke on spider.

d. Position assembly in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

6. Remove shaft from special tool, and install new snap ring.

7. Repeat slip-yoke installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup and snap ring on opposite side of driveshaft slip-yoke.

8. Check U-joint for freedom of movement. If binding, strike the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. Do not strike the bearings.

9. Torque front propeller shaft to front axle bolts to 15 ft. lbs.

10. Torque front propeller shaft transfer case pinion flange to driveshaft bolts to 22 ft. lbs.

11. Torque rear propeller shaft to rear axle bolts to 75 ft. lbs.

12. Torque rear propeller shaft to transfer case bolts to 40 ft. lbs.

Single Cardan, Flange Yoke

Disassemble

Do not, under any circumstance, clamp the shaft in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localizing fracture can result, causing shaft failure during vehicle operation. Place the shaft on a suitable workbench. Do not damage the tube. If components are not marked and installed incorrectly, driveline imbalance can occur.

1. Index-mark the shaft components.

2. Remove and discard all four snap rings.

3. Clamp bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent in a vise.

4. If necessary, use a pair of pliers to remove a bearing cup that fails to press out all the way. Remove bearing cups and driveshaft flange as follows:

a. Position driveshaft flange in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

b. Press out bearing cup.

c. Rotate driveshaft flange 180 degrees.

d. Press on spider to remove remaining bearing cup.

e. Remove driveshaft flange.

5. Repeat bearing cup removal in this procedure to remove remaining bearing cups and spider from shaft.

6. Clean yoke area at end of shaft.

Assemble

Install the Universal Joint Kits as complete assemblies only. Do not mix components from other kits.

1. Install new spider and bearing cup.

a. Start new bearing cup in shaft yoke.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position new spider in shaft yoke.

d. Position driveshaft yoke in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

2. Repeat to install new bearing cup on opposite side of driveshaft yoke.

3. Inspect driveshaft flange. Install a new flange, if necessary.

4. Install driveshaft flange and new bearing cups.

a. Start new bearing cup in driveshaft flange.

b. Check needle bearings for correct positioning.

c. Position driveshaft flange on spider.

d. Position assembly in bearing cup removal tool No. 205-086 or equivalent.

e. Press bearing cup to just below snap ring groove.

5. Repeat flange installation in this procedure to install new bearing cup on opposite side of driveshaft flange.

6. Install yellow snap rings supplied in kit to assemble universal joint. If difficulty is encountered with yellow snap rings, install black snap rings. Remove shaft from bearing cup removal tool No 205-086 or equivalent, and install four new snap rings.

7. Check U-joint for freedom of movement. If binding, strike the yoke with a brass or plastic hammer. Do not strike the bearings.

8. Torque front propeller shaft to front axle bolts to 15 ft. lbs.

9. Torque front propeller shaft transfer case pinion flange to driveshaft bolts to 22 ft. lbs.

10. Torque rear propeller shaft to rear axle bolts to 75 ft. lbs.

11. Torque rear propeller shaft to transfer case bolts to 40 ft. lbs.

Engine gets to the very high end of the temperature gauge when pulling camper

 Auto Repair Questions, Ford  Comments Off on Engine gets to the very high end of the temperature gauge when pulling camper
Sep 252019
 

1998 Ford F250

When I pull my camper it gets to the very high end of the temp. still inside the normal range but almost hot. When I first got my truck it didn’t have that problem, it ran in the middle. It is a 1997 Ford F250 with a 7.5L engine.



I will assume the coolant level is full and the cooling system has no leaks.

A couple of things come to mind on this one. First the clutch fan may be getting weak and in need of replacement. It take about a hour to swap it out. Any obstruction in front of the radiator would also contribute the issue. Lastly I would want to confirm the temperature reading is accurate. It is possible that the coolant temperature sending unit is not functioning correctly.

  • Clutch Fan Failing
  • Radiator air flow obstructed
  • Faulty coolant temperature reading

Temperature Gun

You can check the engine coolant temperature with an external infra red temperature gun. You can pick one up reasonably cheap at amazon for under $20.

Just aim it at the engine head or upper radiator hose to check the temperature.

Clutch Fan

Clutch fan can also be picked up pretty reasonable for under $40 and like i mentioned earlier, it takes about an hour to swap it out.