I believe my crankshaft position sensor is bad because the wires that went to it were burnt and open and I also do not know where these wires lead. if you can help please let me know.
Sounds like you have your hands full with this one. It certainly couldn’t hurt to replace the sensor while your in there repairing the burnt wiring. I have provided a couple of wiring diagrams to help assist you in fixing your problem.
Crankshaft Sensor Location
The Crankshaft Position Sensor is built into the distributor.
2000 Isuzu Rodeo Crankshaft Position Sensor Power Distribution
2000 Isuzu Rodeo Crankshaft Position Sensor Ground Distribution
I have a leak in my clutch cylinder that holds break fluid to assist my clutch so I can shift my gears. If it gets low then I have to refill it and pump my clutch and make sure it is topped off so I can drive my truck. Once I do that and start driving and shifting it is fine. But now every time I go do drive my truck I have to do this. Where could I be leaking fluids? I can not see it up top by where I fill the container. Could it be a leak in the line or tubing? please help me. Thank you.
Leak in my clutch cylinder
There is definitely a leak if you keep having to add fluid each day. There is no leak if you only had to add fluid the one time. Having to pump it up is from air being in the system. Bleeding the system of air would correct the issue of having to pump the clutch. If you do conclude you have a leak you will need to repair it. Follow the hose from where you fill the fluid downward to see if it is wet or dripping. Then look lower toward the underside of the transmission. The slave cylinder is leaking if the hose looks and feels dry and you see fluid dripping from underneath the transmission. Therefore I have looked up the exact fit parts for your 1998 Isuzu Hombre and double checked to make sure they would fit.
1998 Isuzu Hombre Clutch Hose
1998 Isuzu Hombre Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch system bleeding
NOTE: Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.
Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications
Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw
Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal
Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system
Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder NOTE: Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or air will be drawn into the system.
My motor runs hot and looses coolant at about 2 quarts a week. I see no puddle of coolant underneath or any where. I’ve had the radiator, pressure cap and thermostat replaced. It starts fine cold but when hot, it doesn’t start up quickly but it does start, almost every time.
Most likely scenario is the engine has a blown head gasket.
You can rule out an external leak by using a pressure tester tool and pressure testing the cooling system. This will allow you to see if the leak is external or internal. Since you are pressure testing you can remove the spark plugs to see if coolant comes out the holes.
How to pressure test the cooling system
Top off cooling system radiator and overflow when engine is COLD
Attach pressure tester and build pressure to radiator cap limit (usually between 15-17 lbs will do)
Let stand under pressure and observe any external leaks
If no external leaks are found but pressure is still dropping, Re-leave pressure from tester and remove spark plugs.
Build pressure back up and observe spark plugs holes for coolant coming out.
My check engine light is on. I took it in and had spark plugs changed and ignition coil light still on took in again. I was told I needed a catalytic converter. Light is still on and my mechanic doesn’t know where the problem is can you help me
Just post the check engine light codes below and I will assist you with your problem.
Hi, I have a 2003 Isuzu Rodeo 2WD, V6, 3.2L
I had a bad coolant leak and located the problem that was a bad rubber O-ring on the heater bypass hose. So, I tore down the intake manifold, replaced the O-ring, new manifold gaskets, and new thermostat, put it back together and decided to try and locate a squealing noise that recently started occurring as well. Replaced drive belt that had some wear and the idler pulley that had a ceased bearing in it. Drove it for a week just fine but I noticed a gurgling sound in my heater core, so I figured it had air in the system and needed burped. To no avail, I couldn’t get all the air out, further investigation I found another small leak coming out of the weep hole in the water pump, hence why it wouldn’t burp.
I replaced the water pump and a new timing belt. Did the timing by the book, meaning I had the number 2 piston at top dead center, the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft gear with the v-notch in the 3 o’clock position lined up with the “I” stamp on the oil pump. Rotated the RH cam shaft several times until it sprung into place on the timing mark. Rotated the LH cam several times until it landed on the threaded bolt hole, and then rotated it an additional 90 degrees to line it up with the timing mark on the valve cover. Put new timing belt on with perspective marks, put crankshaft pulley back on and locked it down, pulled pin from tensioner, put number 2 spark plug back in, hooked up battery, started vehicle briefly. Check engine light is flashing and vehicle shakes, put it in gear to put a load on it, shakes more and acts likes it going to stall but doesn’t.
It seemed to me that it was a misfire happening or it could not be in time exactly. I took it all back apart and repeated the timing steps 3 more times and I am still getting the same results with the check engine light flashing and vehicle shaking. I did notice that my spark plugs were a little black, and the top white part looked burnt, it was about 6 months ago that I last changed them, not sure if this is a contributing factor and hoping that a valve is not bent, but that would be an extreme to the equation, but I’m not a professional mechanic by trade, hence why I am asking for your help. I’m stumped, if it’s in time to the “T” by the book, then why am I getting those results?
Unfortunately this engine is an interference engine. This means if the timing was set incorrectly the valves could be bent or damaged. Removing all the spark plugs and performing a compression test would identify what cylinders may be affected. It sounds like your timing should be good. A good rule of thumb is to rotate the engine several times, after setting the timing marks, and double check to make sure the marks still line up. I have seen the marks line up only to move one tooth once the tensioner is released. Sometimes you need to set it one tooth back so that when you release the tensioner it will line up correctly. Hopefully this is the issue and not valve damage.
Vehicle would turn on then shut off, got a more mechanical person to check out the problem and they told me its the fuel pump. got a new fuel pump, but now (and I saw the video of this he recorded) the pipes that lead into the fuel assembly are rusted and need replacing. I am told it is called the fuel assembly or fuel hanger assembly. I wanted to order the part online, but cannot find anything other than one that fits a Rodeo of the same year in a parts store online. My question is: can the fuel assembly for the rodeo, fit my trooper? in this case are they interchangeable? It would save my life if it does. If not, where can i find the part other than a junk yard. Where can i find it online?
THE SUV WILL CRANK UP AND RUN FINE BUT WHEN YOU CUT IF OFF, IT WILL TURN OVER BUT WILL NOT START. YOU CAN HOLD DOWN THROTTLE AND IT MIGHT SPUTTER A LITTLE LIKE IT STARVING FOR GAS. IF YOU LET IT SIT AWHILE SAY AN HOUR OR SO, IT WILL START UP FINE UNTIL YOU CUT IT OFF AGAIN AND DOES THE SAME THING OVER AGAIN. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
ABS light is on, I read that you can jump between pin 4 & 12 of the data link connector and read codes on ABS light blinks. Tried it and did not work. Looked at connector and doesn’t look like there is a pin in cavity #4. have Snap On scanner but will not read ABS. Please Help