it stalls when drove
RESPONSE
This can be from loss of fuel or spark. May be from a failing engine sensor or damaged wiring. First thing to do would be to pull and check engine light trouble codes and go from there. You may post the trouble codes below in the comments for further information. The codes may indicate why the engine stalls when driven.
So, there is a leak in the boot from the rack to the tie rod on my Jeep Liberty. I’m just wondering if its an indication of a bigger problem with the tie rod or the rack or if its just a hole in the boot?
RESPONSE
All the boots have a hole in them. This allows them to move without having an issue with air pressure. The boot is to help assist in keeping dust and dirt away from the seals in the rack. It is safe to drive with a small leak as long as you keep the fluid level topped off. Letting it run dry will damage the power steering pump. If the leaks gets bad enough to warrant fixing it. Replacing the entire rack is normal. An alignment will be needed once the repair is completed.
Labor time for replacing the rack is between 3 and 4 hours. Not including the alignment.
During deceleration at about 30mph and below there’s a loud ticking noise what sounds like from the rear. If I accelerate it seems to stop. Any ideas what this rear end noise could be?
RESPONSE
This is most likely coming from the rear differential. Specifically the pinion shaft bearings. Drain a little rear end fluid and look for the gear oil to has a shinny tint. You may also notice tiny metal flakes. This is from the bearings breaking down and will cause a rear end noise.
Once the bearings are replaced the differential bearing preload and gear backlash need to be adjusted to proper specifications.
If pinion torque to rotate is low, tighten pinion nut in 6.8 N·m (5 ft. lbs.) increments until pinion torque to rotate is achieved.
CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pinion bearing rotating torque. If pinion torque to rotating is exceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed. Failure to follow these instruction will damage the axle.
Ring gear and pinion are supplied as matched sets. Identifying numbers for the ring gear and pinion are painted onto the pinion gear shaft and the side of the ring gear. A plus (+) number, minus () number or zero (0) along with the gear set sequence number (2) (01 to 99) is on each gear. This first number (1) the amount (in thousandths of an inch) the depth varies from the standard depth setting of a pinion marked with a (0). The next two numbers are the sequence number of the gear set. The standard depth provides the best teeth contact pattern.
On my 2010 Jeep Wrangler whenever I engage the 4×4, and make a hard turn the wheel rattles.
RESPONSE
I would have to say that the axles u-joints or the hub bearings are worn. I would lean more toward the axles u-joints as the hub bearings would tend to be noisy in 2WD or 4WD.
Pressing a two-way momentary rocker switch on the switch bank request axle lock. The first press DOWN requests rear axle to be locked, every other press DOWN toggles between “front and rear axle lock” and “rear axle lock” request states. Press rocker switch UP requests both axles to be unlocked. The switch is on the IP in the switch bank. The switch bank sends a message to the Cabin Cluster Node (CCN). The CCN handles the switch debounce and switch diagnostics. Any one message sent by the CCN on the network is a valid switch change. The CCN passes the information to the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) via a CAN B message. The TIPM will process the switch info received from CAN B, control the outputs as required by the Axle Lock Electrical Requirements, and send a lighting request to the CCN via CAN B. There are three telltales on the cluster, “Rear”, “Front”, and “Lock”. The telltales will be off if the axles are unlocked, flashing if there is a pending request to lock but the axles are not yet locked (transition to lock, torque-locked, or conditions not correct), and flashing rapidly if there is a fault. The “Front” and “Rear” telltales will match the front and rear differential states. The “Lock” telltale will be on solid if either the “Front” or “Rear” telltale is on or blinking. The TIPM will send the axle lock status message to the ESP module via CAN C.
The problem started when turning right. The engine would cut out like it was out of gas. Sometimes it would die, but start right back up. Now its happening just driving down the road. We changed the fuel filter, that did not help. Don’t know what to check now?
RESPONSE
90% certain it is the ignition control module. This is a common failure part for this model.
1991–98 Jeep vehicles are not equipped with an ignition control module. However, the functions of the ignition control module are performed by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), also known as the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Hello, I need some help. I have a 1995 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2. My Jeep blows heat out of my defroster only when I turn the knob to change to vent. It still blows out defroster I found a vacuum line had came off my vacuum reservoir. I put it back on and still blows out defroster. I also noticed when my knob is on defroster I can turn it clockwise off defroster and it shuts off system instead of turning all way back to off is the switch control system bad.
RESPONSE
It is possible that the control head is faulty. I do not think a vacuum leak would cause an issue. The reason would be that Defrost is the default location for the airflow door. There is no vacuum applied when the mode switch is placed in the Defrost position.
The mode switch is used to direct output airflow. There are 5 different modes of operation: panel, bi-level, floor, floor/defrost and defrost. Different modes of operation are identified by symbols on the control panel. The switch controls vacuum signals to operate the air outlet doors.
What is wrong or which gaskets have failed when; antifreeze in the oil pan, coolant escapes from the system when car is parked and not running. NO white smoke out tailpipe when car is idling or driving. I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty with a 3.7L engine.
RESPONSE
Coolant is under pressure. Generally between 15 – 17 lbs. while the engine is running. The pressure remains in the system for a while even after the engine is turned off. Failed gaskets that would allow coolant into the oil pan would be the intake manifold gasket and or head gasket. At an extreme but not as likely would be a cracked head or block. This usually only happens in extreme overheating situations where someone overheated the engine and continued to operate the vehicle.
Drain the oil into a clean plastic milk jug, let it set for about 4 hours, You will see if there is any coolant present. It will readily show itself.
Did not find any TSB’s on this issue.
It starts and idles great. When I try to drive it, it stalls and cuts out. Then it takes a min to start back up. Recent Mopar brain replacement. Thinking TPS or Fuel Pump. Ideas?
RESPONSE
I’m thinking fuel pump or MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. You can check you codes if any. Most times when a MAP sensor is faulty it will not set a code. It will be stuck and send the same signal that is within the allotted parameters. You can check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. See if the fuel pressure drops when you try to accelerate. Good pressure at idle and bad on acceleration would indicate a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Of course bad fuel pressure at idle would indicate a clogged fuel filter or faulty fuel pump.
I have a 2010 jeep liberty and suddenly the heat and A/C stopped working by the control dials and settings. It just blows hot air constantly through defroster
RESPONSE
What you have described is a faulty mode door actuator.
The heating and Air Conditioning system uses a reversible, 12-volt direct current (DC) servo motor which mechanically positions the mode-air door. The mode door actuator (1) is located on the driver side of the HVAC housing.
The mode door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the blend-air door and the recirculation-air door. Each actuator is contained within a black molded plastic housing. Each with an integral wire connector receptacle (2) and integral mounting tabs (3). This allows the actuator to be secured to the HVAC housing. The mode door actuator output shaft (4) is connected to the linkage that drives the mode-air door. The mode door actuator does not require mechanical indexing to the mode-air doors, as it is electronically calibrated by the A/C-heater control.
The mode door actuator is connected to the A/C-heater control. It is connected through the vehicle electrical system by a dedicated two-wire lead and connector of the HVAC wire harness. The floor, defrost and the panel-air doors can be moved in two different directions by the mode door actuator. When the A/C-heater control pulls the voltage on one side of the motor connection high and the other connection low, the mode-air doors will move in one direction. When the A/C-heater control reverses the polarity of the voltage to the motor, the mode-air doors moves in the opposite direction. Furthermore when the A/C-heater control makes the voltage to both connections high or both connections low, the mode-air doors stop and will not move.
The A/C-heater control uses a pulse-count positioning system. This is to monitor the operation and relative position of the mode door actuator and the mode-air doors. The A/C-heater control learns the mode-air doors stop position during the actuator calibration procedure. And will store a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for any problems it detects in the mode door actuator circuits.
The mode door actuator cannot be adjusted or repaired. It must be replaced if inoperative or damaged because of its design.
How do I access right side headlight bulb?
RESPONSE
