Lately my vehicle wants to stall and having a hard time staying in gear. I checked the trans fluid and there was no reading on the stick . I haven’t driven it since I filled it and I don’t notice any leaks.
Some leaks only happen under pressure. You may need to bring the engine to operating temperature and drive it. Then park it over a clean piece of card board and leave it set over night. This should determine if there is an external leak.
Another option may be an internal leak. Sometimes when the radiator busts internally the transmission fluid leaks into the cooling system. You may notice a discoloration of the engines coolant.
Recently it started stalling out in traffic, but would start right back up no problem. Then stalls back out a few more miles down the road but again start right back up. The sensors check out fine, coil checks out fine, replaced the cam sensor that the on board computer says was bad. It is still stalling out but only in drive never at an idle. The only thing I can find wrong is only getting 9.4 volts to sensors the cam and the crank.
Generally when the computer sets a code for the cam position sensor it goes into default mode. This means it uses preset parameters to allow the engine to continue to run. The most common reason for the issue you have described would be a failing ignition control module. However the functions of the ignition control module are performed by the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), also known as the Powertrain Control Module. You stated that you already tried replacing it. My first thoughts would be if it was a reman unit from Autozone, you might want to take it back and try another one.
Next thought since you stated a lower than normal voltage reading that there might be an issue with the wiring harness. Maybe looking the harness over for any breaks or rubbing. Or even going more in-depth and performing a continuity test on each wire.
Camshaft Position Sensor Operation – 1993 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L
The Camshaft Position Sensor, or CMP sensor is located inside the distributor. The PCM uses the CMP signal to determine the position of the No. 1 cylinder piston during its power stroke. The PCM uses this information in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to determine spark timing among other things.
The CMP sensor contains a Hall effect device which sends either a 0.0 volt or a 5.0 volt signal to the PCM depending on the position of the distributor shaft.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the PCM will calculate spark timing based on the last CMP signal and the engine will continue to run. However, the engine will not run after it is shut off.
Hall-effect CMP Testing
1.Connect a scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) and check the CMP sensor datastream for a normal waveform.
2.If the scan tool waveform for the CMP sensor is not within the specified values perform a visual inspection on the CMP sensor, wiring harness, connector and related components as follows: ◦Ensure that the connector tabs are fully locked
◦Check for corroded terminals
◦Pins pulled back in the connector
◦Terminal cavities spread open
3.If the connectors, wiring harness and related mechanical components pass inspection, perform the following procedures to test the CMP sensor, wiring and related modules: A.Disconnect the CMP sensor connector.
B.Check the CMP power input circuit by performing a circuit resistance test between the CMP sensor and the power input. Use the Component Pin Data for circuit details.
C.Check the MAF sensor signal circuit to the PCM by performing a circuit resistance test between the MAF sensor and the PCM. Use the Component Pin Data for circuit details.
D.Check the MAF sensor ground circuit between the MAF sensor and PCM by performing a circuit resistance test. Use the Component Pin Data for circuit details.
E.Repair/replace defective parts as needed and recheck the scan data.
My Jeep has been running fine, and when I parked it in front of the house this afternoon, I went to start it later and it would crank, but not start. I checked for spark…there was none, what so ever. After the engine cooled down completely, it started right back up. I was told to check the crank position sensor, but not only do I not know where it is, I am unsure how to test it when I do find it. Please help! It’s my only way to get to and from work everyday. Thank you! It has a brand new fuel filter and fuel pump as well.
Looking at the diagram you might want to rule out a stiking auto shutdown relay first.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Testing
Unplug the sensor connector from the ignition control module and connect an ohmmeter between terminals A and B as marked on the connector. The ohmmeter should read 125–275 ohms on a hot engine. Replace the sensor if the readings are not as stated.
Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement
The CKP sensor is bolted to the top of the cylinder block near the rear of the right cylinder head. Disengage the sensor wiring connector and remove the two sensor mounting bolts.
Carefully pull the sensor out of the cylinder block.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Camshaft Position Sensor Operation
The camshaft position sensor, or CMP sensor is located inside the distributor. The ECU uses the CMP signal to determine the position of the No. 1 cylinder piston during its power stroke. ECU uses this information in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to determine spark timing among other things.
The CMP sensor contains a Hall effect device which sends either a 0.0 volt or a 5.0 volt signal to the ECU depending on the position of the distributor shaft.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the ECU will calculate spark timing based on the last CMP signal and the engine will continue to run. However, the engine will not run after it is shut off.
Camshaft Position Sensor Testing
Insert the positive (+) lead of a voltmeter into the blue wire at the distributor connector and the negative (−) lead into the gray/white wire at the distributor connector. NOTE: Do not unplug the distributor connector from the distributor. Insert the voltmeter leads into the back side of the connector to make contact with the terminals.
Set the voltmeter on the 15 volt AC scale and turn the ignition switch ON. The voltmeter should read approximately 5 volts. If there is no voltage, check the voltmeter leads for a good connection.
If there is still no voltage, remove the ECU and check for voltage at pin C-16 and ground with the harness connected. If there is still no voltage present, perform a vehicle test using tester M.S.1700, or equivalent.
If voltage is present, check for continuity between the blue wire at the distributor connector and pin C-16 at the ECU. If there is no continuity, repair the wire harness as necessary.
Check for continuity between the gray/white wire at the distributor connector and pin C-5 at the ECU. If there is no continuity, repair the wire harness as necessary.
Check for continuity between the black wire at the distributor connector and ground. If there is no continuity, repair the wire harness as necessary.
Crank the engine while observing the voltmeter; the needle should fluctuate back and forth while the engine is cranking. This verifies that the stator in the distributor is operating properly. If there is no sync pulse, stator replacement is necessary.
My Jeep seems to starve for gas intermittently. What is wrong with it? thanks for the reply …..
It could be that it is starved for gas. The fuel filter may be clogged. The fuel pressure regulator may be faulty. The MAF sensor may be dirty and sending bad readings. The fuel pump may be weak causing low fuel pressure. Finally even the gas tank may be low since it is acting like it is starving for gas.
Start by pulling any check engine light codes. Post the codes in the comments for more information on the codes and how to go about diagnosing each code.
Buzzing\humming sound out of drivers rear tire. Brakes replaced, rotors also. Its the same idle and or driving. A constant sound. What would cause this?
If the noise wasn’t there before your last repair, I would recommend checking the last thing worked on first. If you are just looking for what else it could be besides the brakes then I would suggest checking the outer axle bearings.
Hello So I have a 2005 Jeep Cherokee limited 4.7 which I tried to install an ebay remote starter. After attempting to install the company made me connect two wires to the immobilizer wire harness. I stripped out the immobilizer wire harness and connected two wires then it sparked. I then removed the remote start and called back the company to find out the to wires went to the ignition switch harness. Now my jeep wont start at all even after removing the remote start harness. It cranks every 5 seconds but wont turn on. It has brand new battery and brand new starter. Dealer is taking to long to figure out problem. They replaced the ignition switch and added an update but jeep still wont start? HELP! I need my car.
I have an 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ with a 242 transfer case. Need to get it out in order to remove the transmission. I have everything disconnected and all 6 nuts off but when I wiggle the transfer case to slide it off it wont budge.
Transfer Case Removal
1.Shift transfer case into NEUTRAL.
3.Remove transfer case drain plug and drain transfer case lubricant.
4.Mark front and rear propeller shaft yokes for alignment reference.
5.Support transmission with jack stand.
6.Remove rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped.
7.Disconnect front propeller shaft from transfer case at companion flange. Remove rear propeller shaft from vehicle. CAUTION: Do not allow propshafts to hang at attached end. Damage to joint can result.
8.Disconnect transfer case cable from range lever.
9. Disconnect transfer case vent hose.
10.Support transfer case with transmission jack.
11.Secure transfer case to jack with chains.
12. Remove nuts attaching transfer case to transmission.
13. Pull transfer case and jack rearward to disengage transfer case.
14.Remove transfer case from under vehicle.
I’m having a ticking sound at low speeds, (around 10-15 mph and below) I have checked the u joints and don’t have any play. It will tick/pop while coasting at 10 mph coming to a stop and tick a few times and stop and maybe once when I start off. I know sounds are hard to diagnose over the Internet but just wondering if you have ever came across what I’ve described. Thanks
Your right, sounds are a bit difficult to diagnose over the internet. Doesn’t seem familiar or common for this vehicle. You will need to check a few things to narrow it down. Here is a good way to start.
Window Regulators: will front & rear interchange from same side of vehicle?
NO. We simply compare the part numbers of each window regulator and see they are different.
Left Rear 741-374 compared to the Left Front: 741-556
Right Rear 741-375 compared to the Right Front: 741-557
Clearly the part numbers are different and should not be used in place of each other.
The power window system includes the Driver Door Module (DDM) and Passenger Door Module (PDM), which are mounted in their respective front door, the rear door power window switches mounted on the rear doors, and the power window motors mounted to the window regulator in each door. The DDM houses four master power window switches, the power window lockout switch and the control logic for the driver side front and rear door power windows. The PDM houses the passenger side front door power window switch and the control logic for the passenger side front and rear door power windows.
When a master power window switch on the DDM is used to operate a passenger side power window, the DDM sends the window positioning messages to the PDM over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The PDM responds to these messages by sending control outputs to move the passenger side power window motors. In addition, when the power window lockout switch in the DDM is actuated to disable power window operation, this is accomplished through a lockout message sent to the PDM over the PCI data bus.
Body Control Module (BCM)
The Body Control Module (BCM) also supports and controls certain features of the power window system. The BCM receives a hard wired input from the ignition switch. The programming in the BCM allows it to process the information from this input and send ignition switch status messages to the DDM and the PDM over the PCI data bus. The DDM and PDM use this information and hard wired inputs from the front door ajar switches to control the lighting of the power window switch lamps, and to control the operation of the power window after ignition-off feature.
See the owner’s manual in the vehicle glove box for more information on the features, use and operation of the power window system.