Stall and buck
Stall and buckI will go to back up and it will stall and buck seem like has power. It goes dead and will not crank. If you wait like 10 minutes and it runs fine.
Jun 262017
Jun 262017
Starves for gas intermittently
My Jeep seems to starve for gas intermittently. What is wrong with it? thanks for the reply …..
It could be that it is starved for gas. The fuel filter may be clogged. The fuel pressure regulator may be faulty. The MAF sensor may be dirty and sending bad readings. The fuel pump may be weak causing low fuel pressure. Finally even the gas tank may be low since it is acting like it is starving for gas.
What First
Start by pulling any check engine light codes. Post the codes in the comments for more information on the codes and how to go about diagnosing each code.
Jun 262017
Buzzing\humming sound
Buzzing\humming sound out of drivers rear tire. Brakes replaced, rotors also. Its the same idle and or driving. A constant sound. What would cause this?
If the noise wasn’t there before your last repair, I would recommend checking the last thing worked on first. If you are just looking for what else it could be besides the brakes then I would suggest checking the outer axle bearings.
Axle Shaft Bearing Replacement 1995 Jeep Cherokee
1995-jeep-cherokee-axle-shaft-bearing-and-seal-removal-and-installationJun 062017
Hello So I have a 2005 Jeep Cherokee limited 4.7 which I tried to install an ebay remote starter. After attempting to install the company made me connect two wires to the immobilizer wire harness. I stripped out the immobilizer wire harness and connected two wires then it sparked. I then removed the remote start and called back the company to find out the to wires went to the ignition switch harness. Now my jeep wont start at all even after removing the remote start harness. It cranks every 5 seconds but wont turn on. It has brand new battery and brand new starter. Dealer is taking to long to figure out problem. They replaced the ignition switch and added an update but jeep still wont start? HELP! I need my car.
Apr 122017
How do I remove the Transfer case?
I have an 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ with a 242 transfer case. Need to get it out in order to remove the transmission. I have everything disconnected and all 6 nuts off but when I wiggle the transfer case to slide it off it wont budge.
Transfer Case Removal
1.Shift transfer case into NEUTRAL.
2.Raise vehicle.
3.Remove transfer case drain plug and drain transfer case lubricant.
4.Mark front and rear propeller shaft yokes for alignment reference.
5.Support transmission with jack stand.
6.Remove rear crossmember and skid plate, if equipped.
7.Disconnect front propeller shaft from transfer case at companion flange. Remove rear propeller shaft from vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not allow propshafts to hang at attached end. Damage to joint can result.
8.Disconnect transfer case cable from range lever.
9. Disconnect transfer case vent hose.
10.Support transfer case with transmission jack.
11.Secure transfer case to jack with chains.
12. Remove nuts attaching transfer case to transmission.
13. Pull transfer case and jack rearward to disengage transfer case.
14.Remove transfer case from under vehicle.
Apr 112017
I’m having a ticking sound at low speeds, (around 10-15 mph and below) I have checked the u joints and don’t have any play. It will tick/pop while coasting at 10 mph coming to a stop and tick a few times and stop and maybe once when I start off. I know sounds are hard to diagnose over the Internet but just wondering if you have ever came across what I’ve described. Thanks
RESPONSE
Ticking Sound
Your right, sounds are a bit difficult to diagnose over the internet. Doesn’t seem familiar or common for this vehicle. You will need to check a few things to narrow it down. Here is a good way to start.
2001 Jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 6cyl inline
Auto Repair Questions, Jeep
Comments Off on 2001 Jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.0 6cyl inline
Apr 062017
Window Regulators: will front & rear interchange from same side of vehicle?
NO. We simply compare the part numbers of each window regulator and see they are different.
Left Rear 741-374 compared to the Left Front: 741-556
Right Rear 741-375 compared to the Right Front: 741-557
Clearly the part numbers are different and should not be used in place of each other.
Window Operation
The power window system includes the Driver Door Module (DDM) and Passenger Door Module (PDM), which are mounted in their respective front door, the rear door power window switches mounted on the rear doors, and the power window motors mounted to the window regulator in each door. The DDM houses four master power window switches, the power window lockout switch and the control logic for the driver side front and rear door power windows. The PDM houses the passenger side front door power window switch and the control logic for the passenger side front and rear door power windows.
When a master power window switch on the DDM is used to operate a passenger side power window, the DDM sends the window positioning messages to the PDM over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The PDM responds to these messages by sending control outputs to move the passenger side power window motors. In addition, when the power window lockout switch in the DDM is actuated to disable power window operation, this is accomplished through a lockout message sent to the PDM over the PCI data bus.
Body Control Module (BCM)
The Body Control Module (BCM) also supports and controls certain features of the power window system. The BCM receives a hard wired input from the ignition switch. The programming in the BCM allows it to process the information from this input and send ignition switch status messages to the DDM and the PDM over the PCI data bus. The DDM and PDM use this information and hard wired inputs from the front door ajar switches to control the lighting of the power window switch lamps, and to control the operation of the power window after ignition-off feature.
See the owner’s manual in the vehicle glove box for more information on the features, use and operation of the power window system.
Feb 142017
Turn the key on, get gauges to move, go to start and get nothing. no click no gauges. I have replaced the starter, cable, and solenoid. wondering if there might be a fuse ? or ?
RESPONSE
My first guess would be a lack of a ground to the engine block. The ground strap is needed to deliver battery negative to the starter. You can use a multi meter to determine if you have battery negative at the case of the starter. Then check for battery positive voltage at the “S” terminal on the starter Solenoid while someone holds the key in the “START” position. If you see both battery positive and battery negative, replace the starter. If you do not see both you will need to trace your wiring and connections.
Jan 232017
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V6 4×4. My brake light on the left side will not work when the headlights are on. But it will work when they are off.
RESPONSE
First thing that comes to mind would be the wrong bulb was installed. For example. a 3057 bulb is not the same as a 3157 bulb. However not to common but something that can be ruled out.
The most common issue with this model is a internally shorted tail light assembly.
If that doesn’t take care of it, you will need to get a wiring diagram and start tracing the wiring for a short or loose ground connection.
Jan 092017
I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.2L v8. About 80,000 miles. I recently had an alignment done, and now I am having trouble with my oil pressure. (Probably not related.)
When the engine is idling, the oil pressure is about 2/3 of the way up, and as I speed up, the oil pressure gauge wiggles and twitches, and sometimes drops to about half way. When I drive fast, (60mph or faster), the gauge stays around the 2/3 mark.
What concerns me most is that there is sort of a clicking noise coming from the engine. It doesn’t sound quite like a “no oil” piston slap or whatever, but still it doesn’t sound good.
I had the oil changed after it started, and I’ve checked it several times, and the oil levels are good. Also, no check engine lights or anything, and the engine temp and voltage and idle and everything seem normal.
RESPONSE
The most common reason for odd oil pressure readings would be a failing or faulty oil pressure sending unit.
Oil Pressure Test
Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may also be needed, as some specifications may require running the engine at a specific rpm.
- With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil pressure sending unit.
- Following the manufacturer’s instructions, connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if necessary, a tachometer to the engine.
- Start the engine and allow it to idle.
- Check the oil pressure reading when cold and record the number. You may need to run the engine at a specified rpm, so check the specifications.
- Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel warm).
- Check the oil pressure reading again with the engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine OFF.
- Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that given in the chart. If the reading is low, check the cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold pressure is well above the specification, and the hot reading was lower than the specification, you may have the wrong viscosity oil in the engine. Change the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and quantity, then repeat the test.
Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to internal component wear, pump related problems, a low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil pressure readings could be caused by an overfilled
Oil Pressure Sending Unit Testing
- To test the normally closed oil lamp circuit, disengage the locking connector and measure the resistance between the switch terminal (terminal for the wire to the warning lamp) and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read 0 ohms.
- To test the sending unit, measure the resistance between the sending unit terminal and the metal housing. The ohmmeter should read an open circuit (infinite resistance).
- Start the engine.
- Once again, test each terminal against the metal housing:
- The oil switch terminal-to-housing circuit should read an open circuit if there is oil pressure present.
- The sending unit-to-housing circuit should read between 15–80 ohms, depending on the engine speed, oil temperature and oil viscosity.
- To test the oil pressure sender only, rev the engine and watch the ohms reading, which should fluctuate slightly (within the range of 15–80 ohms) as rpm increases.
- If the above results were not obtained, replace the sending unit/switch with a new one.
Oil Pressure Sending Unit Replacement
- Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
- Unplug the oil pressure sending unit wiring harness connector from the sending unit.
- Unscrew the sending unit from the engine block.
To install: - Install and tighten the new sending unit.
- Plug the electrical wiring harness into the sending unit.
- Attach the negative battery cable.