I have a Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2010 5 speed. I have a set of drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic brakes both front and back what other makes and models match these I’m trying to write a classifieds ad
There is a brown sludge in the coolant. I had a chemical and pressure test done both was ok. Can it be the EGR cooler? OR the oil cooler? A manual does not have a cooler for the gearbox but does it have an engine oil cooler?
Generally a brown sludge in the coolant is from a leak sealant additive. This is probably all that it is since it did pass a chemical test. I would also think it has sealed the leak since it passed the pressure test. Should be safe to drive the vehicle this way without worry.
This vehicle’s engine was replaced with a 2000 Mitsubishi gallant engine and now the automatic transmission keeps reviving up once it gets to gear 3 b4 engaging and revs up @ 50 km/hr too. pls what can be done?
My guess would be the transmission fluid level is low. When the engine was swapped out they may have removed the radiator which houses the transmission cooler as well. And upon reinstalling the new engine the transmission fluid level was not checked.
The car is running great. Idles fine, can’t feel or hear a skip. But when I take off its bogged down like half power. Battery and brake light come on and off but doesn’t stay on. Had two calipers go bad one after another.
You could put the car on jack stands and see if the wheels spin freely. This would let you know if your brakes are sticking. If it is, repair as needed. Another check you can do after driving the vehicle would be to feel (without touching) each wheel to see if one is considerably hotter than the others. This is another indication of your brakes sticking.
If your check engine light is on, you should extract the engine trouble codes. You may post them below in the comments for further information on the codes themselves. There may be a sensor failing or loose air intake hose causing the issue.
Low Fuel Pressure can also cause an engine to bog. Does the issue occur if you try to rev the engine in park or neutral?
I’ve been having a Slow Down issue with my car lately. It seems to drive fine, however when I exceed 80mph or go past 3rd gear, for an amount of time, my engine starts to sound like a vacuum. Then next my car dash tells me to slow down. After that my engine shuts itself down where I have to pull off to the side of the road and wait like 15 minutes to start my vehicle and continue driving. What could the issue be? I took it to Autozone, tried a code reader but no codes were read, and worker said the car doesn’t have misfire codes or such.
The CVT oil is really supposed to be changed every 2 years or 30k miles. While I have seen people stretch this out to 60k without issue, I can’t recall ever seeing one cresting 100k without having changed it at least once.
If the fluid is not working effectively due to degradation, it will build too much heat which will trip the fluid temperature sensor and put the car into safe mode.
The flip side to this is the fluid has a monitor to determine more or less how useful it is, which needs to be reset when the fluid is changed. If the fluid was never changed, it is possible that the calculation based on the monitor is shutting it down out of safety when there is no pending issue.
Heavy whining is a warning sign. If it still operates OK when cold you may still be OK. I do strongly recommend having the fluid changed (with Mitsubishi CVT oil only!) and the degradation counter reset as it is long over due and you will experience a better operating transmission as well as a longer life from it as well if there are no current issues and this is a false alarm.
It is important to note that you MUST use Mitsubishi CVT fluid in this unit. As little as 4 ounces of incorrect fluid will cause permanent damage to the CVT, and that includes universal/Honda based CVT fluid etc. Mitsubishi’s CVT operation is different from other manufacturers and you must use their fluid.
There is a TSB on this issue as well. It requires replacing the CVT fluid dipstick to adjust for a different fluid amount to help prevent overheating.
When my car is in drive and I’m idling at a stop light, my engine shakes and kind of sputters. It seems like its idling low (about 600rpm). It keeps on shaking and sputtering until I start driving at higher speeds (about 40mph+) then it goes away. I just changed the front and rear motor mounts along with the spark plugs and wires. Any idea what could be causing it?
Sounds like an engine misfire. If the check engine light is on, of course go ahead and pull the codes and post them below. It is possible that one of the fuel injectors is sticking. When you pulled the spark plugs did you notice one of them looking a bit darker or different than the others? This may be an indication of the effected cylinder to concentrate on. If you find an effected cylinder you can swap parts around to see if the issue follows that part or not.
My Mitsubishi Express LPG was running fine, re-fuelled and went to switch back over and it will not work. Running fine on fuel. After a day I got it to idle on LPG but will not rev, it just stops every time I accelerate.
My first thought is the LPG(propane) tank is empty or very close to it. If this is not the case, the regulator would be the next thing to check. Next check the wiring at the switch to make sure it isn’t trying to run on both which would want to flood the system. Check the wiring harness to make sure it is turning on the LPG valve.
my front right passenger power window is not working. All the other windows work but not the front right passenger window. i need help
There are a few things that can cause a power window to no longer work.
Window motor failure – most common
Window motor regulator binding
Wiring harness failure
Control switch failure
Battery voltage seen at power window motor
In this case check for power going to the window motor when applied by the switch. If the window motor is getting battery voltage and not moving, replace the window motor assembly. In many cases it is easier to replace the window motor and regulator as one unit and is sold this way. If the motor is getting power and you can hear it try to move but sounds like it is binding, it is most likely a power window motor regulator failure.
No power to the power window motor
No power seen at the window when switch is activated may require some digging. Eliminate the possibilities one at a time. Check for voltage coming from the switch. No voltage coming out but voltage seen going in, replace the switch. Voltage seen coming from switch but not getting to the motor, check the wiring harness. If there is a break in the wiring harness, it is usually at the door jams where they are bent the most often.
2001 Mitsubishi Diamante that cranks but wont start. Initially the valve cover gasket was replaced along with the 3 spark plugs (other 3 plugs located elsewhere not changed). It worked for a couple days then battery died and was replaced with new one. It worked for a couple days then crank no start, replaced distributor cap and rotor, it worked for a couple days, crank, no start. Two days ago I sprayed starter fluid and it did not start. The battery sounded weak so I removed and charged overnight and the next day the car started. I shut off and restarted a couple of times and all was fine. I drove 100 yards and the car shut off. I attempted to restart but it would immediately shut off or shut off when I put it in drive. I drove back with car in drive and foot on brake. I started the car yesterday and it seems to be running fine, today crank no start.
Sounds like the IAC idle air control valve may be sticking if you have to hold the gas pedal down to keep it running. May also have a loose connection of the air inlet hoses at the throttle body and or air filter. Any check engine light on, check the codes first. A weak battery will cause issues, if it is old have it load tested and replaced if needed. The throttle body should also be cleaned on the inside.