Why wont my new feul pump work? All relays and fuses work. I wired it direct to the battery and the pump turns on and so does the car but only for a few seconds. I did smell burned plastic when it went out. My battery is dead but i used jumper cables to try it all out. Could this be just a battery issue, or is the wiring,or something else?
this vehicle takes on fuel very slow. takes 10minutes to put 10 gallons of gas into tank. cant pull trigger of gas nozzle all the way, you have to put in very slow.
do shocks need to be replaced
This is probably the weirdest thing that has happened to my car. Sometimes when I turn on the car it just shuts off. Other times it shuts off when I come to a stop. I have noticed that when it doesn’t shut off is when I keep it accelerated. The check engine light comes on and feels like its going to die. I have recently changed the ECU. I noticed it has been acting up like that afterwards. It does drive a whole lot better than before though. These are also some of the recent changes I have done.
Oil change and filter
PVC valve hoses
spark plugs and wires
fuel pressure regulator
put a fuel injector cleaner in the tank
coolant temperature sensor
idle control valve
intake air temperature sensor (IAT)
intake manifold gaskets
brake booster hose
Thanks in advance
when i turn my a/c and radio at same time (a/c at max setting) the cdash lights go out and the car tries to die
My car will start and run fine but when you shut it off it wont start back for hours or even days. It just starts and goes when it wants too.
On the SOHC 2.4L engine I got a PO340 code so I replaced the Camshaft Sensor and I still get the PO340 code .
The car will drive ok until you step on the gas hard, then the engine dies for 4 or 5 seconds and then it accelerates. I’m told that it could be the “CRANKSHAFT sensor effecting it to throw the PO340 code. True or NOT?
I am from Lithuania. I have 1994 Mitsubishi GT3000 WR4 Twin Turbo. There are problems with ECU. It’s not standard Mitsubishi GT3000 ECU, it have two plates inside, In front of it written: C-S type E2T61372-P, part No MD 192588, 10MHz-CPU M37798 CPU, on the sides written: big number and small number 2588 E 2T61372. Specialists of ECU tested it and don’t find mechanic or electronic defects or trouble. They said there are problem with programming ECU, ECU needs to be reloaded, but there isn’t OBD2 or OBD1 diagnostic connection in my car. My ECU himself have some connection (blue one named YAMAICHI FAP-40-07.028B), but there no possibility to connect to this connection in our country, Mitsubishi centre in Lithuania couldn’t help me with this problem. What can you recommend me about this problem? Is this possible to buy connection wire for this YAMAICHI FAP-40-07.028B connection and diagnostic CD for this ECU?
Sorry there isn’t possible to show photos.
when i was driving yesterday my car made a clicking noise an then white smoke shot out the exhaust pipe. any idea what casues that?
I recently replaced a faulty valve cover gasket on above mentioned vehicle. I drove the car approx. 20 miles and parked it. The next day, it would not start. The car is definitely getting both fuel and fire. Removed the plugs to find oil running off of the plug threads on cylinders # 2,3,and 4. Cleaned the cylinder walls with carb cleaner, installed new plugs and wires, and the car started and ran perfectly fine. However, once again, after a 20 mile drive, I shut the ignition off and the car would not restart. Again, I took the steps of removing the plugs,cleaning them ,spraying carb cleaner in the cylinder walls, re-installing the plugs, and low and behold, the car started. Every time I take it for a drive, it will not restart, and I have to repeat the same scenario. Only thing I have found is a broken hose going from the throttle body to the valve cover. PCV ? Could this cause blowby to get into the cylinder walls by bypassing the rings ? Any help is greatly appreciated.