my car is stuck in 3rd gear ( limp mode ),can anyone tell me why or how to fix it
steering fluid leaks under the radiator / front bumper, well empties in 3 days.
tried stop leaks 16 ozs. no luck . leak is the same.
I have a 1998 mitsubishi eclipse, manual transmission, that won’t go into reverse, second or fourth gear, what can be the problem?
I was recently on a road trip when the air conditioning stopped working. It worked one day then the next day not at all. Just blows air. I can hear that it does still turn on and off when I push the button. I thought it might just need a recharge so I bought a kit and when I put the gauge on it said the psi was at 120 and wether or not the ac unit was turned on or off the gauge still said 120. I didn’t even attempt to recharge since it said the psi was supposed to be at about 38. I’m sure I had the gauge on the proper lower port. Should I just drain the whole system and recharge it to 38psi? Or is there a larger problem? And yes the belt it still on and the rest of the vehicle is working fine.
Need wiring diagram… no tail lights or dash lights
Need relay wiring diagram
My 2002 montero sport 3.0L gets a p0403 err and idles rough in park and even rough in drive at at stop. I notice my egr valve would move a little and stay in that position at idle and close back after I turn off car. When I remove the vacuum hose from the egr valve the engine would idle better. I found that my egr vaccum solenoid wouldn’t be energize so I disconnected the wire harness to the vacuum solenoid and ran test I found that hooking it straight to the battery it would click. I then check the wire harness and found that when I put my pos lead to one side the connector and touch the battery neg I had 12VDC, then I took the neg lead and tough the harness neg and tough the bat pos and I had 10.5VDC. I then retest the harness at the egr vacuum solenoid and had 10.5VDC. When I plugged it in to the solenoid the voltage went away. I check the ground back to the ECM it check good no break and not shorted. I did observe that the solenoid would click for a split second and then turn go off. What other issues could cause the egr vacuum solenoid not to function? Is there any other components that might cause the ECM to cut output to the vacuum solenoid.
Is it required to change water pump & tension bar at same time of timing belt? My car has 60200 miles on it. 2007
I hit a curb yesterday on the ice and it bent my rim, but I changed all the rims and tires, but it is still messed up, when I get up to the speed of 55 it starts sounding like rocks are coming out at 65 if I hit any lil’ bump it is hard it keep control of the car, and when I turn really sharp it grinds on something but I have the right size tires on it. So what could it be????
How many hours does it take to replace the clutch? Are there any special tricks, do you have to remove the engine, what is the process, high level comments.
2007 Endeavor LS AWD – 82k Miles
I recently had both check engine and tcl lights come on solid a day after a 65 mile trip through rain ice, and bad weather. Accompanying these lights on is a rough idle at low idling rpm’s and vehicle shaking at higher ones when I tried to drive it. There is 1/2 tank of 91 gas and the gas cap is locked tight. I checked the oil and it was fine, I added fuel injector cleaner along with dry gas and ran the vehicle about 15 miles. None of this seemed to help. I took the vehicle to Autozone and had them read the error code for me which was P0300. The autozone person further said it was a Cyl #4 misfire. I took the vehicle to a repair shop and they ran a diagnostic. They confirmed a cyl #4 misfire (P0304 I believe). They proceeded to change out the coil on cyl #4 and a new error code showed up identifying a misfire in cyl. #6. They checked all the plugs and wires and found no problems. There was no evidence of a manifold gasket leak either. The timing belt on the vehicle has not yet been changed. After this they stopped and said I should take it to a dealer who has better diagnostics to identify the problem since they didn’t have the ability to further investigate the computer diagnostics. They said it would require Mitsubishi to do so. They did not charge me. The vehicle is running considerably worse after their attempt. It barely idles, engine shakes, and seems like it is running on 2 cylinders – hardly any power. I am concerned about what could be wrong. I have read a lot and seems like most of the usual suspects have been eliminated as the cause of the issue. Any help before I take this to a dealer would be greatly appreciated.