Whats suppose to be in engine at top left corner when looking at motor when hood is popped? I have the thing that has 4 metal hoses coming from the top part to right of that there is a empty harness nothing there and hoses not attached to anything?and power steering fluid on ground and tank empty
I have a clicking sound under my hood and it sounds like a sticky lifter. Is my car doomed or can I continue to drive it?
Your in luck! The car is not doomed. The engine should have the oil level checked. If the oil level is good then there is no reason not to drive it. This is assuming no warning lights are illuminated on the dash. Of course if the oil level is low, top it off before driving. If the engine does in fact have a damaged lifter you will not do further damage to it by continuing to drive it. However the ticking sound will be there until a repair is made.
I just replaced spark plugs, leads, fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter, tappet cover gasket kit, timing kit with hydraulic tensioner , radiator , some parts at mechanics. When I drove it home it was weak on power but the mechanic said it mite need running in as the old parts were really bad. I done 24kms and used a quarter of a tank of fuel, it smelt fuely and was rough, when I went to start it the next day it would fire up it just backfires in the air box and exhaust like its misfiring, when I try to rev it, it dies like its getting no fuel or bad firing order or no air ,but the mechanic says he’s not sure to take it back and he will see if he can find whats wrong. Would u know please
Its a 1999 mk Mitsubishi 3.0L triton v6 manual 4×4
The fuel in old filter was black
I only done fuel filter, air n oil filters , radiator , pullys and fan belts , thermostat .
Mechanic done rest , plugs leads timing kit with hydraulic tensioner , tappet cover gasket kit
I’m getting a MAF air flow sensor tomorrow, could that be a possible problem or injectors
The engines ignition timing is off. Probably one or two teeth off on the tinning. The timing belt was not double checked after installation. A mechanic may get in a hurry and forget to rotate the engine 720 degrees and recheck the timing marks. This is a very common mistake. This should be covered under warranty by the mechanic if any was offered.
Could be as simple as some bad fuel in the tank. Change the fueling station and increase the fuel grade the next time it needs a refill. If the check engine light is on then it would be an entirely different issue. You will need a scan tool to pull the trouble codes or have your local auto parts store do it for free. Post the codes after you get them.
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS V6 Automatic 6 Speed with a 105,000 miles, it has never had its transmission fluid changed is it a good idea to change it now or leave it alone? Will changing the transmission fluid do more harm than good? What would be the best place to have it changed? Mitsubishi Dealer, AAMCO, Firestone, Pepboys? Which type of change is the best Flush, Drain and Fill, Drop pan?
In my experience it is fine to change the fluid at anytime until it has over 120,000 miles on it. Once it goes past 120,000 miles without ever being changed you are better off not changing it.
Since you are only at 105,000 miles it would be a good idea to go ahead and change it. I recommend doing it yourself or taking to a shop you or a friend has had a good experience at.
The best type of transmission fluid change
Flush, Drain and Fill or Drop Pan?
Any of the three are better than nothing at all. I prefer the drain and fill or drop pan method. Not that he flush isn’t any good, just requires a machine that I do not have. I have used the machine and it does a wonderful job. So the drain and fill or drop the pan? The difference would be that dropping the pan also gives you access to the filter. Changing the filter is a good thing to replace when possible. It generally takes about 5 to 6 qts. for a drain and fill or drop pan. Much less fluid than a complete flush.
I have a lot of oil coming from the bottom of the oil pan coming out were the crankshaft pulley is.
How serious is this?
Should i still drive my car?
The vehicle is safe to drive as long as you keep the oil level in the safe zone. If the oil leaks out faster than you are able to keep the level full, do not drive it. I would recommend checking the oil level often to give you an idea as to how much oil is leaking out. This will let you know how often you need to add oil. If it only requires that you ad a quart of oil every month I would not look at it as too serious.
Find the Leak
When looking for the source of the leak remember oil does not travel up hill. Once you are certain of the cause of the leak, repair as needed. You may find that the cost of a quart of oil every so often is much cheaper than the cost of the repair. Once you know what repair is needed then you can get an estimate of the cost for it.
Can the parts from a 2000 eclipse be used on my 2000 mirage same motor?
like the instrument cluster
No. The eclipse is different. As they might appear similar in size from the front and may actually fit it the same spot, the connections on the back are quite different.
2000 Mitsubishi Mirage Instrument Cluster
2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse Instrument Cluster
Mirage Instrument Cluster Removal
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the center trim panel.
Remove the knee protector. If pin type clips are used, they may be removed using the following procedure:
A.Press down on the center pin with a suitable blunt pointed tool. Press down a little more than 1 ⁄ 16 in. (2mm). This releases the clip. Pull the clip outward to remove it.
B.Do not push the pin inward more than necessary because it may damage the grommet or the pin may fall in, if pushed in too far. Once the clips are removed, use a plastic trim stick if necessary to pry the knee protector loose.
Remove the instrument cluster bezel.
Remove the instrument cluster. Disassemble and remove gauges or the speedometer as required.
NOTE: If the speedometer cable adapter requires service, disconnect the cable at the transaxle end. Pull the cable slightly toward the vehicle interior, release the lock by turning the adapter to the right or left and remove the adapter.
The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use care not to damage the printed circuit board or any gauge components.
Connect the negative battery cable and check all cluster-related items for proper operation.
Last week, I drove my car to work (-27 degrees here) and when I went to go home at 4, it would not start. Lots of power (new battery), no clicking, no turn over. We had to push start it, drove in the garage, turned it off and it still would not start. Sat over night and it started in the morning. Now, it has done it again…??? Clutch …??
Most likely the starter relay or starter. It is possible that the clutch interlock switch is faulty but not as likely. When it will not start you can check for battery positive at the “S” terminal on the starter. If battery positive is seen, replace the starter. If it is not seen, trace back till the problem is located. I have provided a wiring diagram of the starting system to give you a better idea of how it works.