Drove down the street stopped at stop sign. Hit gas to go and car shut off mid acceleration. No check engine light. I have replaced timing belt, water pump belt, cam shaft sensor, starter, battery. Getting spark and plenty of fuel. Car will crank but not fire. I need help. I’m afraid to buy the crank shaft sensor and that not be the issue. Any ideas?
We have developed a step by step no start diagnostic chart for just this occasion.
My 2016 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport just started not starting on first try as normal. been about 4 times its been hard to start, turns over much longer before start. sounds normal as it turns over just doesn’t start right away?
This is usually a sign of lack of fuel pressure. A quick test would be to cycle the ignition key several times before trying to start it. This will allow a little bit more time for the fuel pump to build required pressure. Turn the ignition key ON and hold for 3 to 10 seconds, then turn it OFF. Do this several times and then try to start the engine. If the engine fires right up like it normally did then you know the issue is fuel related.
Cranks over longer before starting because of fuel pressure
The number one reason would be fuel pump pressure loss. This can be from a failing fuel pump, failing fuel pressure regulator or clogged fuel filter.
Vacuum leak causing longer than normal crank time
There is a chance that a vacuum leak is causing an issue. Loose connections at or around the Mass Air Flow Sensor will cause a false signal to be sent to the engines computer and may make it difficult to start.
Internal Vacuum leak causing hard starting
There is a chance that the idle air control valve is sticking. When this happens the check engine light does not illuminate. A quick test would be to press down slightly on the accelerator pedal while trying to start the engine. If the engine starts easier then the next step would be to clean or replace the idle air control valve.
p0340 code. Engine runs great for 8 minutes then stalls. Will restart and run for 3 seconds then stall. Must sit for several hours–then it will start run for 8 minutes…same thing.
Runs perfect when cold. New timing tensioner, cam sensor , crank sensor, cam sens plug. all wiring checked, swapped main ECM , battery volts correct. Any ideas ?
Failing ignition components act this way. They work great cold and then break down once they start to warm up. I would look for and ignition module or coil issue. I do not think the code p0340 is related unless the battery is weak. If the battery is 4 years old, install a new one anyway, its time.
Check connections and make certain to check the MFI Relay. That relay is part of the camshaft position sensor circuit.
Whats suppose to be in engine at top left corner when looking at motor when hood is popped? I have the thing that has 4 metal hoses coming from the top part to right of that there is a empty harness nothing there and hoses not attached to anything?and power steering fluid on ground and tank empty
I have a clicking sound under my hood and it sounds like a sticky lifter. Is my car doomed or can I continue to drive it?
Your in luck! The car is not doomed. The engine should have the oil level checked. If the oil level is good then there is no reason not to drive it. This is assuming no warning lights are illuminated on the dash. Of course if the oil level is low, top it off before driving. If the engine does in fact have a damaged lifter you will not do further damage to it by continuing to drive it. However the ticking sound will be there until a repair is made.
I just replaced spark plugs, leads, fuel filter, air filter, oil and filter, tappet cover gasket kit, timing kit with hydraulic tensioner , radiator , some parts at mechanics. When I drove it home it was weak on power but the mechanic said it mite need running in as the old parts were really bad. I done 24kms and used a quarter of a tank of fuel, it smelt fuely and was rough, when I went to start it the next day it would fire up it just backfires in the air box and exhaust like its misfiring, when I try to rev it, it dies like its getting no fuel or bad firing order or no air ,but the mechanic says he’s not sure to take it back and he will see if he can find whats wrong. Would u know please
Its a 1999 mk Mitsubishi 3.0L triton v6 manual 4×4
The fuel in old filter was black
I only done fuel filter, air n oil filters , radiator , pullys and fan belts , thermostat .
Mechanic done rest , plugs leads timing kit with hydraulic tensioner , tappet cover gasket kit
I’m getting a MAF air flow sensor tomorrow, could that be a possible problem or injectors
The engines ignition timing is off. Probably one or two teeth off on the tinning. The timing belt was not double checked after installation. A mechanic may get in a hurry and forget to rotate the engine 720 degrees and recheck the timing marks. This is a very common mistake. This should be covered under warranty by the mechanic if any was offered.
Could be as simple as some bad fuel in the tank. Change the fueling station and increase the fuel grade the next time it needs a refill. If the check engine light is on then it would be an entirely different issue. You will need a scan tool to pull the trouble codes or have your local auto parts store do it for free. Post the codes after you get them.
I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS V6 Automatic 6 Speed with a 105,000 miles, it has never had its transmission fluid changed is it a good idea to change it now or leave it alone? Will changing the transmission fluid do more harm than good? What would be the best place to have it changed? Mitsubishi Dealer, AAMCO, Firestone, Pepboys? Which type of change is the best Flush, Drain and Fill, Drop pan?
In my experience it is fine to change the fluid at anytime until it has over 120,000 miles on it. Once it goes past 120,000 miles without ever being changed you are better off not changing it.
Since you are only at 105,000 miles it would be a good idea to go ahead and change it. I recommend doing it yourself or taking to a shop you or a friend has had a good experience at.
The best type of transmission fluid change
Flush, Drain and Fill or Drop Pan?
Any of the three are better than nothing at all. I prefer the drain and fill or drop pan method. Not that he flush isn’t any good, just requires a machine that I do not have. I have used the machine and it does a wonderful job. So the drain and fill or drop the pan? The difference would be that dropping the pan also gives you access to the filter. Changing the filter is a good thing to replace when possible. It generally takes about 5 to 6 qts. for a drain and fill or drop pan. Much less fluid than a complete flush.