A month ago my low beam bulb(right side) went out, I changed it, everything worked perfect. Here i am a month later ,replacing it once again, except this time the new bulb isn’t coming on.
What could be causing this?
Left side works perfectly fine.
You can swap the left side (good) bulb to the right in order to test if it is the socket. Alternatively you can in stall the newly purchased bulb into the left side to see if the New bulb is bad. It happens.
In most cases the issue is caused from moisture getting into the headlight assembly either from damage or age.
How to replace the headlight on 2006 Nissan Altima
When I turn on the blower dial on, and the AC on/off button is depressed, I can hear the clutch engaging, but there is no cooling. The unit continues to blow warm air, and while it does, I push the on/off button on and off until the unit starts blowing cold. This can take any where from 5 to 10 minutes. While I am depressing the on/off button on and off, I can hear the clutch engage and disengage. It is a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder.
Throughout the rest of that same day, I just have to turn the blower dial on once (while the on/off switch is in the on position) and it blows cold immediately. The next day, it all repeats again; starting with no cooling for about 5 to 10 minutes while pressing the on/off switch on and off. About two months ago, I replaced the expansion valve, at the suggestion of an Nissan AC expert, with no change.
Your air conditioning compressor clutch in engaging as you stated. This is a good thing. It means that your Freon level is full enough to engage the clutch on the compressor and function properly.
If you were to pop the hood and feel the pipe going to the evaporator it would be cold. Again confirming the compressor, expansion valve,e etc are functioning as they should.
Hope everyone is having a great weekend. So I’m having this huge problem with my Altima. Here’s the rundown:
Okay! So I have an 05 Altima 3.5l with 130k miles That was driving BEAUTIFULLY until one day I hit a bump hard in the city then the car stalled. Took it to autozone and code p0340 came up. Replaced the bank 1 and bank 2 cam sensors with cheap chinese sensors (I know) and then had the same problem. Took it to a —-ty mechanic, first tried to tell me the tranny was shot then advised I replace sensors with OEM NISSAN. I bought new genuine oem nissan sensors (bank 1 bank 2 and crankshaft) and had them all installed.. Now mechanic said there was a code for transmission speed sensor. Bought an oem Transmission Speed sensor, had him replace it and said he now thinks transmission is shot because car has little acceleration in drive and clunks in reverse.
This problem happened while I had the p0340 code and would sometimes go away after resetting the negative terminal, then reappear, which leads me to believe the transmission is not bad after all. Im pretty sure the car not accelerating with enough power or going over 2k RPMs is attributed to it being in limp mode, but what the hell do I know?
My first thought since it happened after hitting a bump would be the battery. As a battery wears it leaves deposits in the bottom of the battery and when those deposits build up they short out across the bottom of the lead plates inside. I think that is what happened when you hit the bump, the deposits shifted around enough to short out across the bottom plates. Odds are the battery is a few years old or older anyway. So replacing the battery would be my first thought.
Nissan Code P0340
Camshaft position sensor circuit
Code P0340 Description
The camshaft position sensor senses the retraction with intake valve camshaft to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor senses the piston position.
Code P0340 Possible Causes
Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted)
Hi there, my 2005 Altima will flood out the spark plus and the cambers with raw gas. I’ve changed the fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel line, and the ignition coils but seem to still have the same issue. Could it be a problem with the starter or timing chain? I’m just a little stuck because I did take the car to a mechanic and had them run a diagnostic and they thought they located the issue and change my air mass intake boot because it has a crack, I’m guessing they believed maybe a vacuum leak was the culprit but the car still floods out every time after I eventually get it started.
The first step would be to pull any existing trouble codes that may be stored in the computer. Then post them so we can dig deeper into the reason the codes may be stored. It may be a vacuum leak or a faulty sensor. An ECT sensor may be signalling to spray more fuel than needed. But instead of guessing, lets look at the codes first.
2000 Nissan Pathfinder V6 … New battery installed 1 week ago … Starts right up no problem …. Here’s what’s going on …. You’re driving along and everything is fine. Then suddenly the engine seems to slightly shake and then suddenly stalls! The ONLY strange thing (could be related or not) is that in very cold weather without a sufficient warmup, reverse is fine but once it’s in drive there seems to be a clunking noise which you can feel. Then it drives and runs okay!!! At a loss now, any idea’s?
Slightly shake and then suddenly stalls
First place to start would be pulling any check engine light codes. May or may not show a code. If it does, post code back here in the comments. Most common cause for this issue would be the crankshaft and or camshaft position sensor failing.
For your transmission issue, check the fluid level. If it is full but dark and burnt looking instead of pinkish red, there may be internal damage. Check the color on a white paper towel. Having the transmission fluid and FILTER changed may correct this issue.
Sensor 1 Bank 2 – at right rear of engine compartment (F5)
A closer look under the hood gives you a better view of the exact location of the A/F sensor.
How to change Air Fuel Sensor
Remove harness connector of air fuel ratio A/F sensor
Remove the air fuel ratio A/F sensor is a 7/8 (22 mm) offset oxygen sensor socket.( the socket has a slot in one side to allow siding over the wiring harness.
Offset Oxygen Sensor Socket
Size: Common 6 point, 7/8 inch (22 millimeter) hex fits almost all oxygen sensors; 3/8″ drive for ratchets.
Design: This socket’s slotted design allows you to remove oxygen sensors with the wiring harness still attached, and the unique off set design of the T7822F Oxygen Sensor Wrench delivers maximum torque with maximum convenience! Made to increase torque on hard-to-remove O2 sensors and allows you to access tough spots, easily!
Hello I have a 2002 Altima that was perfect, no problems. Then tried to start it and nothing, engine wouldn’t even turn over. However the dash light would blink then when I tried to jump it, it tried to start without the key in the ignition. Then a buddy was looking at it and had the negative cable off the post and tapped the post with the cable and the car again tried go start without the key… What could be the problem???
Somewhere there is a wire crossed or cable shorted. If there has been recent work done, start there. Follow the link and you will find a step by step diagnostic chart for no start conditions. Remember to start with a fully charged known good battery.
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and damaging components such as the alternator diodes.
When working on any electrical component in the vehicle, it is always a good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many sensitive electrical components such as the Engine Control Module (ECM), radio and alternator.
Disconnecting the negative battery cable first will also prevent accidentally grounding the positive terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting the battery creating a short to ground.
Reconnect battery cables by installing the positive cable first. Then connect the negative cable. This will reduce the possibility for voltage spike to occur that can affect the operation of sensitive electronic components. Be sure to check that your lights, windshield wipers and other electrically operated safety components are working correctly. If your vehicle contains an electronically tuned radio don’t forget to also reset your radio stations and clock.
I started having issues with my A/C system a while ago. It was not very strong in general and when I drove long distances, after about 20 minutes, there would be on and off cold air.
When I connected a manifold, the values with the engine off were fine but once I turned the engine on, the low side would immediately go into “retard” while the high side would read about 145 psi.
In the past, I hit an object in the front of my car, so I knew that the condenser might have an issue. It was a little bent and with a thermometer, I saw a significant difference in temperature in areas right next to each other, therefore I replaced it. However, since it still gave me the same readings, I also exchanged the compressor. The clutch had been working (actually constantly running) but I never heard it humming.
Still having the same readings.
What else could be the problem? The TXV, evaporator or orifice tube? How can I test them before attempting to replace?
Anytime you replace the Air Conditioning compressor the manufacturer recommends that you flush the entire system. The manufacturer also requires that the orifice tube and accumulator/expansion valve be replaced at the same time. If this is not done the manufacturers warranty is void. With that in mind if you are getting a higher reading there may still be a restriction.
I need to know how to test the intake valve timing control solenoid.
Intake Valve Timing Control ( IVTC)
The intake valve timing control (IVTC) solenoid is activated by on/off pulse duty signals from the ECM. The IVTC solenoid valve changes the amount of oil and direction of flow through IVTC unit or stops flow. The longer the pulse width the more valve angle advances. Shorter pulse width retards valve angle. When on and off pulse widths become equal, solenoid valve stops oil pressure flow, and intake valve angle is fixed at control position.
Intake Control Valve Control Solenoid Testing
Turn ignition off. Disconnect IVTC solenoid valve 2-pin connector. Turn ignition on. Measure the voltage between ground and IVTC solenoid valve harness connector terminal No. 1 (Red wire). If battery voltage does not exist, go to next step. If battery voltage exists, go to step 3.
Check the following:
Harness connectors E1 and M1.
Harness connectors M33 and F22.
Check Harness continuity between IVTC solenoid valve and ECM relay.
Repair harness or connectors.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM 116-pin harness connector. Check continuity of Orange/Black wire between Bank 1 IVTC solenoid valve harness connector terminal No. 2 and ECM harness connector terminal No.11, or Pink/Blue wire between Bank 2 IVTC solenoid valve harness terminal N0. 2 and ECM harness connector terminal No. 10. Also check circuit for short to ground and short to voltage. If problem is found, repair as necessary. After repair, repeat DTC confirmation test. If no problem is found, go to next step.
Measure resistance between IVTC solenoid valve terminal No. 1 and 2 (component side). Resistance should be 7.0 – 7.7 ohms at 68 degrees F. Check continuity between ground and IVTC solenoid valve terminal one at a time. Continuity should not exist. If resistance and continuity are as specified, go to next step. If resistance or continuity is not specified, replace IVTC solenoid valve and retest system. After repair, repeat DTC confirmation test.
No problem is indicated at this time. Problem may be intermittent.