You can make sure the shifter is actually shifting the selector into the reverse gear. Physically look to make certain the manual lever on the transmission is actually shifting into the right position. Once you have made certain it is actually in the reverse position you can move on to testing pressure. You will be required to use a scan tool or an external gauge. This will let us know what is going on in the transmission. Most common failure component for this would be a faulty Line Pressure Solenoid.
l can get every gear when the engine turn off. But when l start the car l struggle to get it into gear?
The reason this is happening is because the clutch is not being released all the way. This happens when the clutch disc and or pressure plate is worn. This can also occur if there is a leak in the hydraulic clutch if equipped. However the most common cause is a failing clutch slave and master cylinder. Similar to a brake master cylinder, when a clutch slave/master cylinder leak internally there is no loss of fluid visible. Yet the loss of function is still there. Replacing the The clutch slave and master cylinders as a complete unit is the way to go. If you try to do them individually, it will take for ever to bleed them.
Clutch Master Cylinder, Overhaul
Dismantle and inspect inside cylinder before purchasing rebuild kit. If pitting or scoring exist replace clutch master cylinder.
Drain clutch hydraulic system.
Remove clutch master cylinder from vehicle.
Remove hydraulic fluid reservoir from master cylinder if equipped.
Pull back rubber boot. There is no need to unscrew clevis from push rod. This saves you from having to adjust linkage.
Remove snap ring holding push rod/washer in place using a suitable set of snap ring pliers.
Pull out piston/spring assembly. You may have to use compressed air to assist in removal.
Clean inside and outside of cylinder with denatured alcohol or fresh brake fluid. If you notice any pits or scrapes in cylinder, you will need to replace it with a new one.
Lubricate new piston O-rings, with suitable lithium base grease.
Slide assembly into cylinder.
Pack end of piston, where push rod will rest and pivot, with suitable grease.
Attach snap ring in place using snap ring pliers.
Replace rubber boot.
Replace reservoir with new copper crush washers, if equipped.
Reverse procedure to install, note following:
a.Fill and bleed clutch system.
b.Inspect for hydraulic fluid leaks.
c.Ensure clutch operates correctly.
Just bought a 2015 Juke with 70,000 miles. The transmission died, just got replaced by dealer. The drain plug was not installed properly had to get fixed. I just got it back, took for a drive and the car started shaking intermittently at stops. Should I return and get money back? I have 2 days to decide. HELP!
Yes. I would definitely take it back.
Though it may be that the dealerships technician merely forgot that the transmission needed to be re-calibrated. There is a TSB – Technical Service Bulletin out for this. Since the vehicle is already showing signs of failure it would be advisable to return the vehicle while you still have the option.
Nissan TSB# NTB12-103g
The service procedure in this bulletin contains steps to perform TCM Calibration Data “Write” procedures. These procedures are used when a complete CVT assembly is replaced, a CVT control valve (valve body) is replaced, or a Transmission Control Module (TCM) is replaced.
I am replacing my timing belt. First I put the engine at top dead center for cylinder 1. Then I marked the positions of the crankshaft cog and the camshaft cog with paint and removed the old belt. However, when I go to put the new belt on, the white lines on the belt that are supposed to line up with the factory markings on the camshaft cog and the crankshaft cog do not line up precisely. Additionally the belt seems to be a little loose on the side without the tensioner pulley so it can’t be tightened with the tensioner pulley.
The white lines on the belts would appear to line up with the cog markings if I rotated the crankshaft cog one tooth clockwise, but if I did that then the lines I painted on the cogs before I removed the old belt would no longer line up. What is more important to line up? The white lines on the belt with the factory markings on the cogs? or the marks I painted on the cogs indicating their positions with respect to the block before I removed the old belt?
The factory marks are the most important. However you know the old belt was on correctly and the engine was running as it should. You also did the right thing by marking the belt before you took it off. Mark the new belt using the marks from the old belt. Install the new belt using the marks you just put on the new belt and it will be exactly the way the old one came off. And once you release the tensioner it will all line up the way it should.
Next rotate the engine a few times and check that the factory marks line up. The belt may seem off or loose until the tensioner is tightened against the belt.
5 Deg BTDC setting at idle (about 650 – 850 rpm) with vacuum hose to distributor plugged.
When it is hooked up again should run at about 10-12 deg. BTDC
Also make sure that the weights inside the distributor are working freely. And that vacuum canister on side of distributor is working OK. These are prone to split diaphragms on these. You will go nuts trying to tune it.
On any engine I am looking to get the top performance out of, I advance the distributor until the engine pings and then back it off just a bit. I do this at 3,000 rpm. The higher the octane the more advanced you will be able to obtain.
Can this be solved by a home mechanic or is this a dealership fix
Being a skilled mechanic you would have already dove in using a meter and scan tool. If you feel confident in tackling the job, go for it. Otherwise a shop would be the direction to go. Only you know your own skill level.
Code P0126 – Insufficient Coolant Temperature
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is used to detect the engine coolant temperature. The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM). The modified signal returns to the ECM as the engine coolant temperature input. The sensor uses a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases.
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor harness is open or shorted
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical circuit poor connection
Should I have a transmission fluid flush on my 2008 Nissan Altima?
It has 76500 miles on it or 123000 km.
Is it safe to have this done or will it ruin the car?
I’ve been reading conflicting information on the internet.
Should I change my Transmission Fluid?
Manufacturer Recommended Service – Automatic CVT Transaxle Fluid
Inspect every 15,000 miles
There is no mention of changing the fluid in the manufacturers maintenance schedule. Though it only goes out to 120,000 miles.
A little more digging into the subject lead me to a TSB ( Technical Service Bulletin) put out by the manufacturer regarding special transmission fluid April 28, 2008. In short it will void any chance of warranty if you use the wrong transmission fluid(or can’t prove you did).
It would be my personal recommendation not to have the fluid changed unless otherwise advised by a Nissan Manufacturer Dealer.
NISSAN; Special automatic transmission fluid requirement
Applied Vehicles: 2004 to current Nissan vehicles
If Warranty repairs are being done on a transmission listed in the chart below, the listed fluid must be used. A claim to Nissan for warranty, service contract, or goodwill repairs to the transmissions listed below may be denied if Genuine Nissan ATF/CVT fluid is not used as specified by the part # in this bulletin.
If Customer Pay service or repair of the transmissions listed below is done, the fluid type listed in the chart below must be used. Nissan recommends the Genuine Nissan ATF/CVT fluid part # listed below be used.
I plan on buying a 91 240sx, but the issue that the car has is that its ignition timing is off; meaning that it does not run. Also in has 195,000 miles on it. I want this as my project car. Is this a good buy? And what should I expect from a car with 195k miles of that age?
Well, you asked if this was a good buy? Though to answer without the price. If the price is $10,000 then NO, not a good buy. If the price is under $500 and the body is perfect, it is an OK buy considering the unknown factor of the engine and transmission possibly being blown. With it not running there is an infinite number of issues that may be present. And with it setting around from not being running, you may be looking at even more failing parts such as rusted brake and fuel lines, etc.
My recommendation would be to look for one that is already running. It may cost you a little more up front but will be cheaper and less work in the long run.
My 2012 Nissan Versa currently has issues accelerating and when I make a stop the car refuses to move again. The code p0101 showed up so I tried cleaning the mass airflow filter, but I’ve seen very little improvement after a day. What are the next steps I should take to fix the issue?
Nissan Code P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor ‘A’ Circuit Range/Performance
Code P0101 Description
The mass air flow sensor (1) is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. The mass air flow sensor controls the temperature of the hot wire to a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss.
Therefore, the electric current supplied to the hot wire is changed to maintain the temperature of the hot wire as air flow increases. The ECM detects the air flow by means of current change.
Nissan Code P0101 Possible Causes
A) A High Voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under light load driving conditions
Harness or connectors (Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Mass air flow sensor
EVAP control system pressure sensor
Intake air temperature sensor
B) A Low Voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under Heavy load driving conditions
Harness or connectors (Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted.)