5 Deg BTDC setting at idle (about 650 – 850 rpm) with vacuum hose to distributor plugged.
When it is hooked up again should run at about 10-12 deg. BTDC
TIP
Also make sure that the weights inside the distributor are working freely. And that vacuum canister on side of distributor is working OK. These are prone to split diaphragms on these. You will go nuts trying to tune it.
Performance
On any engine I am looking to get the top performance out of, I advance the distributor until the engine pings and then back it off just a bit. I do this at 3,000 rpm. The higher the octane the more advanced you will be able to obtain.
My car starting acting up last night. It will turn but not start and when it starts it immediately stalls right after.
the next time the engine will not start you may want to see what it is not getting. Either loss of spark or fuel or both. A quick test would be a shot of starting fluid.
Can this be solved by a home mechanic or is this a dealership fix
Being a skilled mechanic you would have already dove in using a meter and scan tool. If you feel confident in tackling the job, go for it. Otherwise a shop would be the direction to go. Only you know your own skill level.
Code P0126 – Insufficient Coolant Temperature
P0126 Description
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is used to detect the engine coolant temperature. The sensor modifies a voltage signal from the Engine Control Module (ECM). The modified signal returns to the ECM as the engine coolant temperature input. The sensor uses a thermistor which is sensitive to the change in temperature. The electrical resistance of the thermistor decreases as temperature increases.
Possible Causes
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor harness is open or shorted
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical circuit poor connection
Should I have a transmission fluid flush on my 2008 Nissan Altima?
It has 76500 miles on it or 123000 km.
Is it safe to have this done or will it ruin the car?
I’ve been reading conflicting information on the internet.
Thanks
Should I change my Transmission Fluid?
Manufacturer Recommended Service – Automatic CVT Transaxle Fluid
Inspect every 15,000 miles
There is no mention of changing the fluid in the manufacturers maintenance schedule. Though it only goes out to 120,000 miles.
A little more digging into the subject lead me to a TSB ( Technical Service Bulletin) put out by the manufacturer regarding special transmission fluid April 28, 2008. In short it will void any chance of warranty if you use the wrong transmission fluid(or can’t prove you did).
It would be my personal recommendation not to have the fluid changed unless otherwise advised by a Nissan Manufacturer Dealer.
TSB# NTB08-049
NISSAN; Special automatic transmission fluid requirement
Applied Vehicles: 2004 to current Nissan vehicles
Service Information
If Warranty repairs are being done on a transmission listed in the chart below, the listed fluid must be used. A claim to Nissan for warranty, service contract, or goodwill repairs to the transmissions listed below may be denied if Genuine Nissan ATF/CVT fluid is not used as specified by the part # in this bulletin.
If Customer Pay service or repair of the transmissions listed below is done, the fluid type listed in the chart below must be used. Nissan recommends the Genuine Nissan ATF/CVT fluid part # listed below be used.
I plan on buying a 91 240sx, but the issue that the car has is that its ignition timing is off; meaning that it does not run. Also in has 195,000 miles on it. I want this as my project car. Is this a good buy? And what should I expect from a car with 195k miles of that age?
Well, you asked if this was a good buy? Though to answer without the price. If the price is $10,000 then NO, not a good buy. If the price is under $500 and the body is perfect, it is an OK buy considering the unknown factor of the engine and transmission possibly being blown. With it not running there is an infinite number of issues that may be present. And with it setting around from not being running, you may be looking at even more failing parts such as rusted brake and fuel lines, etc.
My recommendation would be to look for one that is already running. It may cost you a little more up front but will be cheaper and less work in the long run.
My 2012 Nissan Versa currently has issues accelerating and when I make a stop the car refuses to move again. The code p0101 showed up so I tried cleaning the mass airflow filter, but I’ve seen very little improvement after a day. What are the next steps I should take to fix the issue?
Nissan Code P0101
Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor ‘A’ Circuit Range/Performance
Code P0101 Description
The mass air flow sensor (1) is placed in the stream of intake air. It measures the intake flow rate by measuring a part of the entire intake flow. The mass air flow sensor controls the temperature of the hot wire to a certain amount. The heat generated by the hot wire is reduced as the intake air flows around it. The more air, the greater the heat loss.
Therefore, the electric current supplied to the hot wire is changed to maintain the temperature of the hot wire as air flow increases. The ECM detects the air flow by means of current change.
Nissan Code P0101 Possible Causes
A) A High Voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under light load driving conditions
Harness or connectors (Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Mass air flow sensor
EVAP control system pressure sensor
Intake air temperature sensor
B) A Low Voltage from the sensor is sent to the ECM under Heavy load driving conditions
Harness or connectors (Mass air flow sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Automatic, very slow acceleration especially after a stop. Louder engine noise. Accelerates quite slow period. Clanking noise and bounce when shifting into park or reverse.
My first guess would be that the transmission is not shifting correctly and is starting out in 2nd gear after a stop. This would also account for the engine having to work harder to accelerate that may attribute to the louder engine noise. A check engine light code might guide us in the right direction.
I’m getting low gas mileage. We recently changed the air filter. Then cleaned o2 sensor, throttle body, spark plugs, and catalytic converter. The engine is in good condition. Average mileage is near 9.7
First Step
The first thing to do would be to see if there are any check engine light codes present. Next post the codes below and we can determine which codes may be effecting your fuel mileage.
What kind of mileage were you used to getting? Is this why you started throwing new parts at it and cleaning everything?
Have you tried fuel from a different station to see if there was a difference?
Possible causes
If you are letting the car warm up before driving it will decrease. Low tire pressure will also decrease fuel mileage. A clogged air filter or dragging brake caliper will also decrease fuel mileage.
A month ago my low beam bulb(right side) went out, I changed it, everything worked perfect. Here i am a month later ,replacing it once again, except this time the new bulb isn’t coming on.
What could be causing this?
Left side works perfectly fine.
You can swap the left side (good) bulb to the right in order to test if it is the socket. Alternatively you can in stall the newly purchased bulb into the left side to see if the New bulb is bad. It happens.
In most cases the issue is caused from moisture getting into the headlight assembly either from damage or age.
How to replace the headlight on 2006 Nissan Altima
When I turn on the blower dial on, and the AC on/off button is depressed, I can hear the clutch engaging, but there is no cooling. The unit continues to blow warm air, and while it does, I push the on/off button on and off until the unit starts blowing cold. This can take any where from 5 to 10 minutes. While I am depressing the on/off button on and off, I can hear the clutch engage and disengage. It is a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder.
Throughout the rest of that same day, I just have to turn the blower dial on once (while the on/off switch is in the on position) and it blows cold immediately. The next day, it all repeats again; starting with no cooling for about 5 to 10 minutes while pressing the on/off switch on and off. About two months ago, I replaced the expansion valve, at the suggestion of an Nissan AC expert, with no change.
Your air conditioning compressor clutch in engaging as you stated. This is a good thing. It means that your Freon level is full enough to engage the clutch on the compressor and function properly.
If you were to pop the hood and feel the pipe going to the evaporator it would be cold. Again confirming the compressor, expansion valve,e etc are functioning as they should.
This is common to a failing mode/blend door actuator. The actuator is a tiny electronic device that opens and closes the doors inside the ventilation system. This allows it to switch from hot to cold.
When the vehicle sets, heat and moisture tend to affect these components. And when first put in use after setting they have a harder time functioning properly.
How to replace Mode Actuator 2001 Nissan Pathfinder
