My car starts alright but will not move. The previous day my first and second gears took a long time to accelerate and there was a smell of something burning (clutch probably) after my drive.
Sounds about right. If the clutch is slipping or worn out the vehicle will not want to move. Something you can try. Hold the brake and let out on the clutch pedal. It the engine does not die, the clutch is shot.
My Nissan Titan if you gassed it one time, would spit and sputter but not die. We would kill it then start it again and it would be fine. Now it slowly progressed and now it’s spitting and sputtering and will actually die on us. We have to kill it and start it back at every stop sign and red light and as were going well have to put it in neutral and kill it too. It acts like either the throttle body, fuel filter or fuel pump is acting up but we’re not sure which it could be.
The first step would be to have any codes pulled and post them. You can get the codes pulled for free at just about any local auto parts store.
So I was thinking about replacing the factory transmission cooler with an aftermarket trans cooler. I replaced transmission about 2 years ago. I do not want to burn this one up. Should I be doing something different?
Heat is the number one cause for transmission failure. You are thinking along the right lines as far as what can be done for precautionary measures.
You might want to consider making sure both your cooling fan relays are functioning properly as well. In conclusion there is a low and high fan relay.
The cooling fan will operate at low speed with the power being supplied through the low speed fan relay. Place the air conditioning to maximum and the High speed fan relay should kick in and supply the cooling fan with power. You should be able to see the fan speed increase since it is functioning properly.
I have a 2003 Altima. It will start without any problems cold. But after driving for a while and turning off the car it will not start until the engine is cold again. I have replaced both cats, o2 sensors, the cam and crankshaft sensors to no avail. Please help if you have any idea what this could be I’m extremely frustrated with this car because I cant figure this out. I’m soon to replace the head gasket and fuel pump but I’m tired of throwing money at this car with no solution.
My check engine light keeps going on and off, so I went to a mechanic to get a diagnosis. They told me that they found oil contamination on the spark plugs from an internal leak. The spark plug tube seal caused the contamination on the spark plugs and catalytic converter. He’s recommending that in order to get rid of the Service Engine Light I need to replace not only the spark plugs, but the catalytic converter, O2 sensor, gasket plugs, valve cover gasket, exhaust gaskets and etc. In total he’s charging me $2300 for parts and labor. I’m trying to get a second opinion rather than drop all this money without knowing if there’s a cheaper/alternate route. Thank you.
Post the diagnostic codes and we can find the cheapest solution.
I purchased a set of Rancho shocks from Rockauto.com and double checked the application, but the mounting hole on the shock is .490 and the threaded mounting stud is .540. ????
I have a 1994 Nissan D21 which I have had problems with the horn blowing fuses before. I just recently replaced the horn and everything was working fine for a couple of weeks. A week ago, I was sitting my truck and noticed the Air Conditioning had stopped working, I tried turning the a/c off then on but it still did not work. I turned my truck off and then back on and it came back on. A few minutes later, I drove off and turned the radio up and it stopped playing music but still had power to the radio. The next day, I was backing up, blew my horn and the fuse had blown. When I pulled out on the highway, I realized my turn signals would not work. I tried my flashers and they are working. Any idea of where I need to start looking? I brought it to a mechanic and he sat on it for a week then went on vacation.
Looks like you may need to do some tracing in the wiring. Use the wiring diagram provided to assist in tracing the wiring harness.
Light in back window and bottom back lights are staying on continuously. It drains my battery so I am having to disconnect and I still may need to get a jump. What may be causing this? And what can I do to fix it ?
Hello,
I got a Nissan Altima 2004 , 2.5L. When I let off gas the rpm drops quickly to 1000 and jump to around 1200 and again drop back to 1000.
Also the car jerks on acceleration and deceleration mainly from 1 to 2 or 2 to 1. It looks the
transmission has delayed shifting …
My engine mounts were weak because when I was changing gear from P to R ro N to R the engine used to jerk, I replaced the (except tranny mount) but now after a month I think the mounts are loose again and engine moves a lot.
Do you think the jerky shifting might be caused by a weak or broken tranny mount ? or it’s the solenoid or valve body issue? there is NO light on.
By the way, the jerky shifting is much more noticeable when I accelerate slowly, I don’t feel a jerk if I push the gas pedal with high rpm and high acceleration
Hi I have a question regarding my interior dome light. I replaced both door switches and have the dome light on the door setting and it only dims instead of going off when doors are closed? Can I fix this myself and what do I need to do to fix it?
RESPONSE
Your ability to fix the problem is only limited to your skills and knowledge. If you are comfortable using a multi-meter this should be a home fix. Understanding how the circuit works and then repairing or replacing the issue component. Fortunately for us the circuit is small with few components. We have 1 wiring harness, 3 switches, one fuse and a dome light.
Faulty Dome Switch
We know your fuse is good so we can skip that. We know the bulb is good. You replaced the door switches and DO see the light dim when the door is shut. The light is however staying on as you stated. So we know battery positive is getting tot he bulb on the RED/GRN wire. Next we will need to determine where the Dome light is picking up the battery negative feed. Check the RED/BLK wire. No Battery negative should be seen when the doors are closed. Battery negative should be seen when doors are open. This means the door switches are working properly. So we are left with the Dome Light Switch and a wiring harness.
The BLK wire should be battery negative at all times. The dome switch should only see the battery negative on the BLK wire when it is switched to the “ON” position. If the dome light bulb is receiving battery negative from the BLK wire when the switch is in the “OFF” or “DOOR” position the switch may be faulty. Replace the dome light switch. If this is not the case then you are left with tracing the wiring harness and looking for a short.