Hi, Are you able to tell me the best type of spark plug to use for my astra?
If this is a stock engine, I recommend using OEM replacement spark plugs. Original Equipment spark plugs are designed to work the best.
If your looking for a performance spark plug you may want to try a good set of Bosch or NGK spark plugs.
I need a bulb put in the right front head light I was told. Will replacing this bulb, also work low and high beam? I was also told it is a little difficult to replace this bulb. Can you tell me how much the bulb should be and how much should the total cost to replace this bulb?
High beam and low beam headlight bulbs are separate. Labor time is 0.8 – 1 hour to replace headlight bulb. So you are looking at around $200 for parts, labor and tax.
The headlamp relay receives battery positive voltage directly from the battery. The BCM supplies a ground signal to the headlamp relay for normal headlight operation. The BCM also supplies voltage to the beam select relay coil for high beam headlight operation. When the driver places the headlamp switch in the ON position and the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the headlamp relay supplies current flow through the left and right low beam headlamp fuses to both low and high beam headlamps. Both low beam headlights are grounded through the beam select relay. When activated, the dimmer switch sends a ground signal to the BCM in the high beam position and a momentary ground signal in the flash-to-pass (FTP) position. The BCM then energizes the beam select relay which switches the headlamp grounds from the low beam headlight bulbs to the high beam headlight bulbs illuminating the high beam headlights. With the headlights in the low beam position, the high beams may be momentarily turned ON or flashed by activating the FTP portion of the switch.
Bulb failure, end of life occurs when the bulb gets old and becomes unstable. The bulb may begin shutting itself off sporadically and unpredictably at first, perhaps only once during a 24-hour period. When the bulb begins shutting itself off occasionally, the ballast will automatically turn the bulb back on again within 0.5 seconds. The ballast will re-strike the bulb so quickly that the bulb may not appear to have shut off. As the bulb ages, the bulb may begin to shut off more frequently, eventually over 30 times per minute. When the bulb begins to shut off more frequently, the ballast receives excessive, repetitive current input . Repetitive and excessive restarts or re-strikes, without time for the ballast to cool down, will permanently damage the ballast. As a safeguard, when repetitive re-strikes are detected, the ballast will not attempt to re-strike the lamp. The ballast then shuts down and the bulb goes out.
The following symptoms are noticeable signs of bulb failure:
Input power to the ballast must be terminated in order to reset the ballast’s fault circuitry. In order to terminate the input power to the ballast, turn the lights off and back on again. Turning the lights off and back on again resets all of the fault circuitry within the ballast until the next occurrence of excessive, repetitive bulb re-strikes. When excessive, repetitive bulb re-strikes occur, replace the starter/arc tube assembly. The ballast will begin the start-up process when the starter/arc tube assembly is replaced. Repeatedly resetting the input power can overheat the internal components and cause permanent damage to the ballast. Allow a few minutes of cool-down time in between reset attempts.
Bulb failures are often sporadic at first, and difficult to repeat. Technicians can identify bulb failure by observing if the problem gets progressively worse over the next 100 hours of operation.
White light has a different color rating than regular headlamps. The range of white light that is acceptable is broad when compared to halogens. Therefore, some variation in headlight coloring between the right and left headlamp will be normal. One high intensity discharge (HID) at the end of the normal range may appear considerably different in color from one at the other end of the range. Difference in color is normal. Replace the arc tube only if the arc tube is determined to be at the bulb failure stage.
I bought this car used. In less than a week, it started popping out of 3rd gear and making awful grinding noises from the transmission. Replaced the transmission.
Now, the fog lamps will not turn off (pulled the fuse), the interior lights will not turn on, the radio will not turn on, and the heater blower will not blow. Also, the power windows will not roll up or down. And the odometer flashes “no fuse” message. Checked for blown fuses and broken wires as best I could but, was unable to find any. It is quite possible that I missed or overlooked some of these. I am not familiar with this vehicle nor am I a mechanic. Please, help if possible. I didn’t pay very much for this car, but I don’t want to just throw away what money I have spent. – John
Generally when something will not turn off it is caused from a back feed or crossed wiring. Sometimes this can be from a sticking relay or damaged wiring. Other times a faulty switch or connecting the wiring harness wrong. Isolating each circuit should help narrow down the issue.
If I had to guess, I would think a power wire connection coming from or going to the fuse block. Most likely happened during transmission replacement. Double check your connections and wiring harness. Most of the fuses should be hot at all times. This means you should see battery voltage on both sides of the fuse.
I have a dodge caravan 2008 and my ABS light along with brake light,what can i do and what is the sense of urgency.
When this occurs while driving under normal conditions it is caused by the brake fluid level being slightly low. Topping off the brake fluid level should allow the function to restore. However an inspection of the brakes should be performed in the next few weeks or so.
The brake system is a closed system. This means that unless the brakes pads wear down or there is a leak, fluid does not need to be added.
If the roads are icy or snowy then the lights may come on when the system is activated. Once the car is turned off and restarted the light may go out. If the the lights continue to stay on, an inspection is advised.
This car runs perfect going steady down the road-when climbing hills it wants to stutter.
First thing to do would be to scan for check engine light codes. These codes will help guide you in the right direction. The codes will also help keep you from replacing parts that don’t need to be. My guess would be an engine misfire. But the nice thing about the codes is you will not need to guess.
I need assistance finding where a positive cable on the wiring harness connects to.
One positive battery cable connects from the battery to the starter relay and the other to the starter motor. Of course if you have two batteries there is one that connects the two. See diagram below.
There are positive cables that come from the starter relay. They connect to the alternator and the fuse box. These cables contain fusible links. See diagram below.
Was running, will not start now. I charged battery and it turns over then makes a noise at starter. When I try again and same thing. I tried 3 times same thing no start. I can’t describe the sound. Any ideas?
My guess would be a faulty battery. But your in luck. we have developed a step by step diagnostic chart for just this occasion. This way we don’t have to guess.
When car is warmed up and turned off for about 10 minutes, it will not start back up. I have to wait for about 30 min before it will start again. It will crank just no start. I have a new starter, cam and crank position sensors. Engine coolant temp sensor good. Vehicle has spark, and fuel pressure but I don’t know exactly how much pressure because I don’t have the right gauge. I hear the fuel pump prime as well and fuel filter is integrated with pump. I bought a new purge solenoid too thinking it might have been excess vapor. No idea where to go from here.
We have developed a step by step chart for just this occasion. Remember, having fuel pressure great but if your fuel injectors are not firing you are still not getting gas. A quick test would be to try spraying some starting fluid in the air filter to see if it wants to run.
I have a severe shimmy / shake that starts once I hit 60 MPH and continues till around 70 MPH. I bought this truck used with 65,000 miles on it and what appeared to be new tires. The dealership changed the tracing bar and the dual stabilizer bar and re-balanced the tires and rotated the tires also trying to fix/find the issue. The issue only seemed different before these above fixes but now appears more different , severe and worse?
The issues at first were noticed at 35 or 40 MPH crossing a rough R/R Track that near about shook me off the side of the road and then settled down but really didn’t shimmy or shake to much at a high rate of speed , this was referenced as ‘ A DEATH WOBBLE ‘. Since the above fixes , the truck don’t shimmy or shake crossing the rough R/R track at 35 or 40 anymore but now shimmy’s and shakes severely once speeds of 60 to 70 MPH are reached. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
Generally if a vibration comes on at a certain speed and then calms down at a higher rate of speed it is caused by a tire issue. Usually the tire issue is due to balancing. Sometimes what is called a flat spot will also cause this issue.
A good way to narrow this down is to first test drive and note any vibration. Is it more dominate in the front or steering wheel than it is in the rear or seat. Once noted, rotate both front tires to the back and test drive again. Note if the vibration has followed the tires. If it is now worse feeling in the steering wheel then you can start by re-balancing. Or in most cases replacing the front tires.
More than likely all the problems that were present caused extensive damage to the tires. Now that the repairs are made the only thing left to do would be to replace the tires.
My Suburbans right rear door will not lock manually or with power. I had to replace the inside handle/lock assembly because the lever had fallen inside the door. I can lock by vice grips on the lock rod. I can unlock manually with inside lever but it feels like it’s in a bind when locking with vice grips, it’s easy unlocking but stiff locking.
If it feels like something is binding then it most likely is. You will need to take it back apart and determine the cause. Disconnect the rod and see if the lock mechanism can now be moved easily in both directions. If you find the lock can now lock and unlock without the rod connected, work from there until you determine the cause. May be rust or an improper installation or even something dropped inside.
