I have two codes, one for fuel tank pressure sensor and for oxygen sensor bank one. Ive replaced ftps and both oxygen sensors twice and still get the codes. could there be something else wrong that wont kick these codes out?
First I will need the two codes… post in the comments below.
My 2010 Toyota Hybrid has Diagnostic Trouble Code P3065 and I am not sure what it is. What does this code mean?
There are engine codes and battery codes. The battery they are referring to is the Hybrid battery. This code is related to the battery.
If the temperature indicated by the battery temperature sensor is lower than the standard level (open), or is higher than the standard level (short), the battery smart unit interprets this as a sensor malfunction. If the battery smart unit detects that the HV battery temperature is out of normal range or its value is abnormal, the HV control ECU will illuminate the MIL and set a DTC.
Toyota Code P3065
Hybrid Battery Temperature Sensor Range
Code P3065 Description
The battery temperature sensors are provided at 4 locations on the bottom of the HV battery. The resistance of the thermistor, which is built into each battery temperature sensor, varies in accordance with changes in the HV battery temperature. The lower the battery temperature, the higher the thermistor resistance. Conversely, the higher the temperature. the lower the resistance. The battery smart unit uses the battery temperature sensors to detect the HV battery temperature, and sends the detected values to the hybrid vehicle control ECU. Based on the se results, the hybrid vehicle control ECU controls the blower fan.(The blower fan starts when the HV battery temperature rises above a predetermined level.)
Lately my truck has been having problems. When I start it up in the morning, it gives me high rpms, but no movement for a few seconds. This is only made worse by braking. The truck comes to a complete stop and I have to get up to about 3500 rpms to get it moving again.
Also, when I leave work in the afternoon I have problems. When I put it in reverse, without touching the gas pedal it will have about 1000 rpms and roll back easily. The same problem as I mentioned above happens when I put it in drive. High rpms and no movement for the first few seconds of driving.
This sounds like you are experiencing transmission related issues. First thing to do would be to check the transmission fluid level.
All of the sudden started getting a knock noise and it wants to hesitate when you take off. I noticed oil towards back of engine but still have good oil pressure. Its not getting hot and no chips in oil.
The oil leak is probably nothing more than just that, a leak. Anyway you look at a noise it doesn’t look good.
Lets figure out if the knock noise is internal or external from the engine. The easiest way to achieve this would be to remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. Only allow the engine to run long enough to determine if the knock no longer remains. If the noise is gone, you know the knock is external. You can check the external noise by spinning the pulleys before installing the serpentine belt.
Internal engine knock noise
Knocking noise is present at engine idle. Generally disappears as engine rpms increase. This is most commonly a cause of faulty engine main bearings.
Knocking noise increases and sometimes gets louder as engine rpms increase. Generally the noise goes away or is faint at engine idle. This is most commonly a cause of faulty engine rod bearings.
On rare occasions the balance shaft bearings have been known to make a knock noise.
In either case you are going to end up rebuilding or replacing the engine to cure the issue.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose and lower degas bottle hose from the radiator.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator.
NOTE: LH shown, RH similar.
Lift the tabs and remove the radiator support brackets and position the radiator toward the engine.
7.Remove the 2 A/C condenser bolts from the radiator and separate the condenser from the radiator. •To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
8. NOTE: Make sure the bottom radiator insulators are in place when installing the radiator.
Remove the radiator.
9.To install, reverse the removal procedure.
10.Fill and bleed the cooling system.
The truck idles fine and revs up fine in park. But when I put in in gear, it’s like I push the accelerator and nothing happens. Like it’s not getting fuel. I replaced the fuel filter and the air filter and that did nothing to fix it. Thank you very much.
No Engine Power
The first thing to do would be to check for any stored check engine light codes. And since this vehicle is older than 1995 it can be done without the use of a scan tool.
My car is idling too fast. I have a red light “inflation” button, and then also check engine light on and off. The idle will go fast, sometimes I can kick it down and then it increases again. What is the likely cause?
High Idle Casue
Anytime there is a vacuum leak you can expect the rpms at idle to increase. The engines sensors know there is an increase of air and it compensates by adding extra fuel. Also with the check engine light on it is a good idea to check the codes. Since this vehicle is older than 1995 the codes can be read without a scan tool.