Aug 122019
 

1997 Chevy Blazer

Tried to smog my truck didn’t pass so I did a tune up. Replaced plugs, o2 sensor and was replacing the distributor cap and rotor when I noticed the distributor was broke. So I replaced it. When I got it all back together it ran fine but coded a crankshaft positioning sensor. So I replaced that and it is still coding the crankshaft positioning sensor. I don’t know what to do now.



Chevy Code P0336 – Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Performance

Chevy Code P0366 Description

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor sends a reference signal to the Vehicle Control Module (VCM) in order to indicate the crankshaft position and the RPM so that the VCM can determine when to pulse the ignition coil, the fuel injectors, and the control ignition timing. This is a type D DTC.

Conditions for Setting the DTC

  • The Crankshaft Position sensor signal is missing for at least 0.5 seconds.
  • Engine cranking and the VCM receives 4 or more Camshaft Position signals without a Crankshaft Position sensor signal.

Action Taken When Code P0336 Sets

The VCM stores the DTC in History if the VCM detects an intermittent problem.

Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

A history DTC will clear if no fault conditions have been detected for 40 warm-up cycles (the coolant temperature has risen 40°F from the start-up coolant temperature and the engine coolant temperature exceeds 160°F during that same ignition cycle) or the scan tool clearing feature has been used.

Diagnostic Aids

A poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation, or a wire that is broken inside the insulation may cause an intermittent.

Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint. Check for the following conditions:

  • Backed out terminals
  • Improper mating
  • Broken locks
  • Improperly formed or damaged terminals
  • Poor terminal to wiring connections or
  • Physical damage to the wiring harness

Refer to Intermittent Conditions .

How to Test Crankshaft Sensor Code P0366

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

  1. This step determines if the VCM is receiving the Crankshaft Position sensor pulses.
  1. This step checks the ignition feed circuit to the Crankshaft Position sensor.
  1. This step checks the Crankshaft Position sensor low circuit.
  1. This step checks the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Step Action Value(s) Yes No
1
WARNING

Important: Before clearing the DTCs, use the scan tool to record the Freeze Frame and the Failure Records for reference. This data will be lost when the Clear Info function is used.

Was the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check performed?

Go to Step 2 Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check
2 Does the vehicle start and continue to run? Go to Diagnostic Aids Go to Step 3
3
  1. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor.
  2. Connect a test light to ground.
  3. Turn the ignition ON.
  4. Probe the Crankshaft Position sensor ignition feed circuit at the engine side of the CKP sensor harness connector.

Is the test light ON?

Go to Step 4 Go to Step 6
4

Connect the test light between the CKP sensor ignition feed and the CKP sensor Low circuit.

Is the test light ON?

Go to Step 5 Go to Step 7
5
  1. Turn off the ignition.
  2. Install the gray jumpers from the connector Tester Kit J 35616 between the engine harness connector and the CKP sensor ignition feed and ground circuits.
  3. Install a DVM set to the duty cycle position (select the AC volt position then press the Hz button twice to display % duty cycle) between the CKP sensor (3x) signal circuit (sensor side) and the CKP sensor Low circuit.
  4. Crank the engine.

Is the duty cycle within the specified range?

40%-60% Go to Step 8 Go to Step 9
6

Repair the open or short to ground in the CKP sensor ignition feed circuit. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Engine Electrical.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13
7

Check the CKP sensor Low circuit for an open.

Was the problem found?

Go to Step 11 Go to Step 12
8

Check for an open or short to ground in the CKP sensor (3X) signal circuit.

Was a problem found?

Go to Step 11 Go to Step 12
9
  1. Remove the crankshaft position sensor.
  2. Inspect the crankshaft position sensor reluctor wheel for damage replace if necessary (Refer to Engine Mechanical).

Is the reluctor wheel damaged?

Go to Step 13 Go to Step 10
10

Replace the CKP sensor. Refer to Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Replacement .

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13
11

Repair as necessary.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13
12

Replace the VCM.

WARNING

Important: If the VCM is faulty, reprogram the VCM. Refer to VCM Replacement/Programming .

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 13
13
  1. Using the scan tool, select DTC, Clear Info.
  2. Start engine and idle at normal operating temperature.
  3. Select DTC Specific, then enter the DTC number which was set.
  4. Operate vehicle within the conditions for setting this DTC as specified in the supporting text.

Does the scan tool indicate that this diagnostic ran and passed?

Go to Step 14 Go to Step 2
14

Using the scan tool, select Capture Info and Review Info.

Are any DTCs displayed that have not been diagnosed?

Go to the applicable DTC table System OK
Mar 152018
 

2000 Chevy Blazer

All of the sudden started getting a knock noise and it wants to hesitate when you take off. I noticed oil towards back of engine but still have good oil pressure. Its not getting hot and no chips in oil.


The oil leak is probably nothing more than just that, a leak. Anyway you look at a noise it doesn’t look good.

Knock Noise

Lets figure out if the knock noise is internal or external from the engine. The easiest way to achieve this would be to remove the serpentine belt and start the engine. Only allow the engine to run long enough to determine if the knock no longer remains. If the noise is gone, you know the knock is external. You can check the external noise by spinning the pulleys before installing the serpentine belt.

Internal engine knock noise

2000-chevy-blazer-crankshaft-bearings

  • Knocking noise is present at engine idle. Generally disappears as engine rpms increase. This is most commonly a cause of faulty engine main bearings.
  • Knocking noise increases and sometimes gets louder as engine rpms increase. Generally the noise goes away or is faint at engine idle. This is most commonly a cause of faulty engine rod bearings.
  • On rare occasions the balance shaft bearings have been known to make a knock noise.

2000-chevy-blazer-blance-shaft

In either case you are going to end up rebuilding or replacing the engine to cure the issue.

Nov 022017
 

 

1995 Chevy Blazer

I have a 1995 Chevy Blazer 4dr 4wd 4.3L V6 Vortex. I turn ignition on and get a single click from starter no crank…is this indicative of a bad solenoid? Engine was started an running just prior, switched off and no restart…battery is new, ignition harness replaced with new OEM


A single click from starter

The click you hear is the solenoid doing its job. So not a bad solenoid, but a worn brushes inside the starter. So you will need to replace the starter. Sometimes you can get lucky and have someone smack the starter with a hammer while you hold the key in the start position to get it to start one last time. I would only recommend this if you need to get it to a different location to work on it. Labor time is about an hour for this job.

Starter Replacement 4 Wheel Drive (1995-1997 Models)

To Remove:
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the differential carrier shield if equipped.
  4. Disconnect the engine mounts and raise the engine.
  5. Remove the transmission mount and support the transmission.
  6. Remove the starter mounting bolts. Rotate the starter for access and disconnect the wires from the solenoid.
  7. Remove the starter from the vehicle.
To Install:
  1. Position the starter near the engine and connect the wiring.
  2. Install the inside starter mounting bolt loosely and position the shims if equipped.
  3. Install the outboard starter mounting bolt. ◦Tighten the mounting bolts to 32 lb ft (43 Nm).
  4. Lower the engine assembly onto the engine mounts.
  5. Install the transmission mount and engine mounts.
  6. Install the differential carrier shield if equipped.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.

 

Jun 152017
 

1994 Chevy Blazer

1994 Chevy Blazer 350 wont start

Okay I’ve been dealing with this for a few days and its really eating away at me. I’m sure I’m missing something small. But anyway, I have a 1994 Chevy Blazer, 4×4, 350, with 220k miles. I recently replaced my oil pressure sensor, control module and starter.

Okay, now she wont start. First thing I think the flywheel is worn down to much in one spot. Only in that spot the starter just spins. I have the shims on there but it still makes a god awful noise trying to start. While trying to start the throttle body is spiting out gas.

I did the old paper clip diagnostic and came out with a fuel pump relay low voltage. I also noticed the sending unit above the oil filter is not connected and I can find what connector goes on there the truck has spark I don’t have any gauges to check oil pressure I don’t know what to do.


Wont Start

It sounds like the check engine light code is sending you in the right direction. Try some starting fluid and see if she tries to fire up. If it does then you will want to check the fuel pressure. No fuel pressure would indicate a failure of one of the following:

  1. Fuel Pump Relay
  2. Fuel Pump Inline Fuse
  3. Wiring Harness
  4. Fuel Pump
  5. Leak In Fuel System
Mar 032017
 

2000 Chevy Blazer2000 Chevy Blazer transmission, when I checked fluid level it was always hella high. 4×4 selector buttons never worked. Going down the freeway offramp I feel a slight thud and continue to light. Light turns green I go but seems like no power. Get to next light and on green, Nothing! I switch to park then back to D, D2,D1, Nothing! I put it in reverse, BOOM! I have reverse! I try drive again but nothing. I tow it home but its the same. My question is, fixable or must I replace???? thanks Joe Sison


RESPONSE

My guess would be replace. The thud and then a boom would lead me to believe something major took place. And the outcome ain’t good.

Jan 312017
 

1998 Chevy BlazerI need a transmission solenoid estimate. How much with parts and labor should changing 2 solenoids cost in transmission? Also, if you change 2, how likely is it that others might fail?


RESPONSE

Shift solenoids are around $20 each on amazon with the torque converter clutch solenoid around $30. They also offer a 5 Solenoid piece kit under $100. Just depends what direction you want to go. And lastly you are going to need some transmission fluid and a new filter and gasket. About 6 quarts of transmission fluid at around $3. A Transmission filter and gasket kit around $30.

Now we know a shop is going to charge a mark up on the parts and may also want a diagnostic fee and some extra shop supply fees.

Transmission Solenoid Estimate

  • Total Parts + 50% markup = $225
  • Total Labor @$100 per hour(shop rate) = $225
  • Diagnostic fee = $75
  • Shop supplies(rags, cleaners, etc) = $25
  • Tax @7% = $38.50

Total Cost Estimate for 2 solenoids = $588.50 (low end estimate, dealership may charge more)

Total Cost Estimate for 5 solenoids = $765.05

 


RESPONSE

50/50 chance of failure with other solenoids.

Labor time would be about 2 hours for replacing one solenoid. Add an additional 15 minutes for each additional transmission solenoid.

Converter Clutch Solenoid Assembly, Replace (b)


Labor Times
Comments Factory Regular Severe
1.4 1.9 2.2
Addons
Comments Factory Regular Severe
w/skid plate add 0.0 0.3 0.3
Aug 192016
 
:
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RESPONSE If the transmission fluid level is full and the fluid looks clean it would indicate an internal issue. Most likely a sticking solenoid or failing solenoid.

Automatic Transmission Operation

Your automatic transmission may have a shift lever located on the console between the seats or on the steering column. There are several different positions for your shift lever. If your vehicle is equipped with a column shift lever, it features an electronic shift position indicator within the instrument panel cluster. This display must be powered anytime the shift lever is capable of being moved out of PARK (P). This means that if your key is in OFF, but not locked, there will be a small current drain on your battery which could discharge your battery over a period of time. If you need to leave your key in the ignition in OFF for an extended period, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery cable from the battery to prevent discharging your battery.
PARK (P)
This position locks your rear wheels. It’s the best position to use when you start your engine because your vehicle can’t move easily.
Warning! It is dangerous to get out of the vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in P (Park) with the parking brake firmly set. The vehicle can roll. Do not leave the vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure the vehicle will not move, even when you are on fairly level ground, always set the parking brake and move the shift lever to P (Park). See Shifting Into Park . If you are pulling a trailer, see Towing a Trailer . Warning!  If you have four-wheel drive, your vehicle will be free to roll — even if your shift lever is in PARK (P) — if your transfer case is in NEUTRAL. So, be sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL. See Four-Wheel Drive . See Shifting Into Park (P) . Ensure the shift lever is fully in PARK (P) before starting the engine. Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock control system. You have to fully apply your regular brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when the ignition key is in RUN. If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever; then, while pressing the button on the console shift lever, push the shift lever all the way in PARK (P) as you maintain brake application. Then move the shift lever into the gear you wish. See Shifting Out of Park (P) .
REVERSE (R)
Use this gear to back up.
Caution! Shifting to R (Reverse) while the vehicle is moving forward could damage the transmission. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Shift to R (Reverse) only after the vehicle is stopped.
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow, ice or sand without damaging your transmission, see If You Are Stuck:
In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow .
NEUTRAL (N)
In this position, your engine doesn’t connect with the wheels. To restart when you’re already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only.
Warning! Shifting into a drive gear while the engine is running at high speed is dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the brake pedal, the vehicle could move very rapidly. You could lose control and hit people or objects. Do not shift into a drive gear while the engine is running at high speed. Caution! Shifting out of P (Park) or N (Neutral) with the engine running at high speed may damage the transmission. The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle warranty. Be sure the engine is not running at high speed when shifting the vehicle.
DRIVE (D)This position is for normal driving. If you need more power for passing, and you’re:
  • Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your accelerator pedal about halfway down.
  • Going about 35 mph (55 km/h) or more, push the accelerator all the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have more power. DRIVE (D) should not be used when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills or for off-road driving. Select THIRD (3) when operating the vehicle under any of these conditions.
THIRD (3)
This position is also used for normal driving. It offers more power and lower fuel economy than DRIVE (D). You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills or winding roads or for off-road driving.
SECOND (2)
This position gives you more power but lower fuel economy than THIRD (3). You can use SECOND (2) on hills. It can help control your speed as you go down steep mountain roads, but then you would also want to use your brakes off and on.
You can also use SECOND (2) for starting your vehicle from a stop on slippery road surfaces.
FIRST (1)
This position gives you even more power but lower fuel economy than SECOND (2). You can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the shift lever is put in FIRST (1) while the vehicle is moving forward, the transmission won’t shift into first gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
Caution! Spinning the tires or holding the vehicle in one place on a hill using only the accelerator pedal may damage the transmission. The repair will not be covered by your warranty. If you are stuck, do not spin the tires. When stopping on a hill, use the brakes to hold the vehicle in place.
May 152016
 

2000 Chevy BlazerI had to change my battery after my blazer sat for a week when i changed it, it will crank but not start


RESPONSE

If it ran just fine before you worked on it, the most likely cause would be something did not get hooked back correctly. Double check your work and insure there is no corrosion on the connections.

You may need to cycle the ignition key on and off to prime the fuel system. Setting for a while may have allowed the fuel pressure to bleed off.

Try spraying some starting fluid in the air filter, if the engine tries to start, you know it is a lack of fuel causing the trouble. If not, it may be electrical.

Sep 172015
 

I am having problems with losing power, I have changed the MAF sensor, air filter, temp sensor, when I come to a stop it stalls, it has a rough idle and has loss of power when driving also. Is there any more suggestions?