I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 3.3L, it makes rattling noise when the engine is running. It has 133,000 miles on the odometer. It doesn’t overheat, the water gauge is less than half. I don’t know if the noise comes from water pump/power steering/AC/Belt. It has no coolant leaks. Changed the thermostat cause it was not heating fix it, Any advice..??
The first thing I would recommend would be to determine if the engine rattling noise is internal or external. There is a quick way to find out. Remove the belts from the engine. Once the belts are removed, start the engine for a brief moment. If the rattling noise is still there, you know it is internal in the engine. If the noise is gone, you know it has to do with one of the components that associate with the belt. Withe the belt off, spin the pulleys and listen for any abnormalities. This will help indicate the problem component.
Satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on proper belt tension. Belt tensioning should be performed with the aid of Special Tool 7198. Because of space limitations in the engine compartment, the use of this gauge may be restricted. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and the remove the splash shield to gain access to the drive belts, if necessary. Adjust belt tension for either a New or Used belt.
The drive belts are a Poly-V type belt . Belt widths vary depending on the various engine and accessory packages. Satisfactory performance of these belts depends on belt condition and proper belt tension.
The accessory drive belts form the link between the engine crankshaft and the engine driven accessories.
I installed all new brakes. I upgraded from 2.5 to 3 inch brake shoes. Installed new wheel cylinder on Left Rear. Had both drums turned. Left rear shoes wouldn’t compress enough but did manage to get drum on. Bled all brakes. Parking brake has slack, star adjuster is threaded to end but it think shoes are rubbing on drum making the springs have a ringing noise when driving. I backed up hitting the brakes to adjust but don’t know it that was enough. Question; why don’t shoes compress another 1/4″ and then be able to adjust everything?
These brake shoes are manufactured to fit many applications. In some cases you may need to modify them. If you need another 1/4 inch will can modify them. Grind the ends where they fit into the adjuster slots. You can remove 1/16 inch from both shoes and test. If you need more, then go another 1/16 of an inch. Best to take as little as possible as it is easier to remove then to add.
Adjusting Brake Shoes for Drum Brakes
The drum brakes are self-adjusting and require a manual adjustment only after the brake shoes have been replaced, or when the length of the adjusting screw has been changed while performing some other service operation, as i.e., taking off brake drums.
To adjust the brakes, follow the procedures given below:
Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.
Remove the rubber plug from the adjusting slot on the backing plate.
Insert a brake adjusting spoon into the slot and engage the lowest possible tooth on the starwheel. Move the end of the brake spoon downward to move the starwheel upward and expand the adjusting screw. Repeat this operation until the brakes lock the wheels.
Insert a small screwdriver or piece of firm wire (coat hanger wire) into the adjusting slot and push the automatic adjusting lever out and free of the starwheel on the adjusting screw and hold it there.
Engage the topmost tooth possible on the starwheel with the brake adjusting spoon. Move the end of the adjusting spoon upward to move the adjusting screw starwheel downward and contract the adjusting screw. Back off the adjusting screw starwheel until the wheel spins freely with a minimum of drag. Keep track of the number of turns that the starwheel is backed off, or the number of strokes taken with the brake adjusting spoon.
Repeat this operation for the other side. When backing off the brakes on the other side, the starwheel adjuster must be backed off the same number of turns to prevent side-to-side brake pull.
When the brakes are adjusted make several stops while backing the vehicle, to equalize the brakes at both of the wheels.
Remove the safety stands and lower the vehicle. Road test the vehicle.
Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
Make sure that the shoe-to-contact pad areas are clean and properly lubricated.
Using and inside caliper check the inside diameter of the drum. Measure across the diameter of the assembled brake shoes, at their widest point.
Turn the adjusting screw so that the diameter of the shoes is 0.030″ less than the brake drum inner diameter.
3.2 i was driving then i smelled burning wire followed by the car over heating and running hot i looked under the hood found a couple spots of wire that need to be fixed and it doesn’t wasn’t to start its trying to but its just not catching someone told me timing how do i check the timing chain with out taking the whole front end apart
If you feel the timing is the issue, a quick test I use is a compression test. This lets you know a valve is open when it shouldn’t be.
My truck will not idle and there is water coming out both exhaust pipes, what would cause this?
A small amount of water coming from the tail pipes is an indication the catalytic converters are working correctly. A heavy amount of water and or accompanied with white smoke is an indication of a blown head gasket.
Of course checking for any computer codes would be a good place to start diagnosing any engine issue.
You will need to contact the manufacturer of the motor home to get an accurate diagram and manual. They consist of many aftermarket components known only to the manufacturer. (ex. Jayco, Fleetwood, Jamboree, etc.)
I just replaced the brake line from back to front on a 2000 dodge ram 1500 2 wheel drive with 5.2 motor. I cant seem to get it to bleed at all. Even the pump the brakes up and open the bleeder valve or hand vacuum pump will not seem to work. Is there any thing I’m doing wrong ?
No, Just takes a long time to get the fluid to move that far. Start on the furthest corner from the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure the reservoir is full. You can gravity bleed, connect a vacuum pump or use the pump the brake pedal method. Pump the pedal and hold pressure while someone else cracks the bleeder then closes the bleeder before you let up on the brake pedal. May need to be repeated a bunch of times. Once you see fluid at this corner move to the next and repeat until you have fluid at all four corners. Make sure to keep an eye on the brake fluid level so it doesn’t run dry or you will need to start over. You will not get full pedal until you take care of all four corners.
My car runs for an hour and then poops out and must sit for another hour (rest) and then will start back up just fine. feels like flooding out? if you hit gas when it’s pooping out, it will immediately die. It been like this for over a year. very frustrating. plez help. I’ve ask every male I see, get a lot of laughs about it, but no help. it’s not funny to me.
The most common reason for this would be a failing ignition control module.
When it will not start you can check for loss of spark or fuel. A quick test I like to use is to spray starting fluid in the air filter to see if it tries to start. If it does you know it is not getting fuel. If it doesn’t then most likely you do not have spark.
Ignition Control Module
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL
Remove the coil secondary cable from the distributor cap. Using a suitable tool, hold end of cable about 1⁄ 4 in. (5mm) from good engine ground. Crank the engine and look for good, constant spark at the coil secondary wire. If the spark is constant, have a helper continue to crank the engine while moving the coil secondary cable away from ground. Look for arcing at the coil tower. If arcing occurs, replace the coil. If no arcing occurs, the ignition system is producing the necessary high secondary voltage. Make certain this voltage is getting to the spark plugs by checking the distributor rotor, cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs. If all check in good condition, the ignition system is not the cause of the problem.
My 2003 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins 4×4 has a 48re auto transmission. When I put it into drive I feel it go in and sometimes everything is fine. Other times the truck will barley move until it gets up to speed(15 mph) and shifts into 2nd then its all good. My question is, is this internal or a solenoid going bad. The truck sat for a couple of months while I recovered from surgery but before that everything was fine…
Checking the transmission fluid level and color will give you the answer to your question. If the color of the fluid is pretty redish/pink than it would be a sensor/solenoid issue. You may have codes stored. If the color is dark or burnt, there is an internal issue that may require a rebuild. And of course if the fluid level is low, topping it off and testing would be prevalent.
Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC’s) are codes stored by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) that help us diagnose Transmission problems. They are viewed using the DRBIII® scan tool.
Always begin by performing a visual inspection of the wiring, connectors, cooler lines and the transmission. Any obvious wiring problems or leaks should be repaired prior to performing any diagnostic test procedures. Some engine driveability problems can be misinterpreted as a transmission problem. Ensure that the engine is running properly and that no PCM DTC’s are present that could cause a transmission complaint.
If there is a communication bus problem, trouble codes will not be accessible until the problem is fixed. The DRBIII® will display an appropriate message. The following is a possible list of causes for a bus problem:
open or short to ground/battery in PCI bus circuit.
internal failure of any module or component on the bus
Each transmission diagnostic trouble code is diagnosed by following a specific testing sequence. The diagnostic test procedures contain step-by-step instructions for determining the cause of a transmission diagnostic trouble code. Possible sources of the code are checked and eliminated one by one. It is not necessary to perform all of the tests in this book to diagnose an individual code. These tests are based on the problem being present at the time that the test is run.
If the TCM records a DTC that will adversely affect vehicle emissions, it will request (via the communication bus) that the PCM illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). Although these DTC’s will be stored in the TCM immediately as a 1 trip failure, it may take up to five minutes of accumulated trouble confirmation to set the DTC and illuminate the MIL. Three consecutive successful OBDII/EURO III trips or clearing the DTC’s with a diagnostic tool (DRBIII® or equivalent) is required to extinguish the MIL. When the TCM requests that the PCM illuminate the MIL, the PCM sets a DTC ($89) to alert the technician that there are DTC’s in the TCM. This must also be erased in the PCM in order to extinguish the MIL.
Any Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) that is set whenever the system or component is monitored is a HARD code. This means that the problem is there every time the TCM checks that system or component. Some codes will set immediately at start up and others will require a road test under specific
conditions. It must be determined if a code is repeatable (Hard) or intermittent before attempting diagnosis.
ONE TRIP FAILURES
A One Trip Failure, when read from the TCM, is a hard OBDII/EURO III code that has not matured to the full 5 minutes. This DTC can take up to five minutes of problem identification before illuminating the MIL
A diagnostic trouble code that is not there every time the TCM checks the circuit or function is an intermittent code. Some intermittent codes, such as codes are caused by wiring or connector problems. However intermittent Speed ratio codes are usually caused by intermittent hydraulic seal leakage in the clutch and/or accumulator circuits. Intermittent speed ratio codes can be set by intermittent speed sensor circuitry or by line noise being induced onto one or both of the speed sensor signal circuits. Problems that come and go like this are the most difficult to diagnose, they must be looked for under the specific conditions that cause them.
STARTS SINCE SET COUNTER
The Starts Since Set counter counts the number of times the vehicle has started since the most recent DTC was set. The counter will count up to 255 starts. Note that this counter only applies to the last code set.
When there are no diagnostic trouble codes stored in memory, the DRBIII® will display NO DTC’s PRESENT and the reset counter will show STARTS SINCE CLEAR = XXX.
The number of starts helps determine if the diagnostic trouble code is hard or intermittent.
If the number of starts is less than 3, the code is usually a hard code.
If the number of starts is greater than 3, it is considered an intermittent code. This means that the engine has been started most of the time without the code recurring.
TRANSMISSION TROUBLE CODE ERASURE
A Diagnostic trouble code will be cleared from TCM memory if it has not reset for 40 warm-up cycles.
A warm-up cycle is defined as sufficient vehicle operation such that the coolant temperature has risen by at least 22Â° C (40Â° F) from engine starting and reaches a minimum temperature of 71Â° C (160Â° F).
The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will turn off after 3 good trips or when the DTC’s are cleared from the TCM.
Last year my wife’s 1995 Dodge Stratus didn’t start when she tried to come home from work. I looked at it and she didn’t have spark or fuel. Figured it was the crank sensor so I replaced it and everything seemed fine. Then the A/C stopped working and the car started to die intermittently. Sometimes it would die while she’s at a light sometimes it would die driving down the road sometimes it would die just idling. I checked the check engine light codes and got back code 71, code 33 twice, and code 23.
-Code 71 is PCM output voltage low.
-Code 33 is Air conditioning clutch relay circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the compressor clutch relay circuit.
-Code 23 is Intake air temperature sensor voltage out of normal range.
After months with no success tinkering, I decided just to buy the engine control module. I put the new module in and the codes went away. The car was running fine, A/C and all, until a couple of days ago. The car is not dying intermittently like it was but the A/C is out and the CEL has the same codes: code 71 code 33 twice and code 23. I also observed the occasionally while checking codes the CEL will stay solid and the cruise light will come on and stay solid then CEL codes would start flashing from the beginning. Please help!
I would start with one code and see if you can take care of it one at a time. The only thing in common with all three codes other than the PCM would be the wiring and or connection. This vehicle is quite old and the wiring harness would be as well. The Air Conditioning may just be a sticking relay.
Code 23 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Operation
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor measures the temperature of the intake air as it enters the engine. The sensor supplies one of the inputs the PCM uses to determine injector pulse width and spark advance. As the intake air temperature varies, the IAT sensor’s resistance changes, resulting in a different input voltage to the PCM.
On all vehicles except 1996–98 models with the 2.0L SOHC engine, the IAT sensor threads into the intake manifold. On 1996–98 vehicles equipped with a 2.0L SOHC engine, the IAT and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensors are combined into a single sensor which is attached to the intake manifold.
Code 23 Testing Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Visually check the connector, making sure it is attached properly and all of the terminals are straight, tight and free of corrosion.
With the ignition key OFF, detach the wire harness connector from the IAT sensor.
Connect a digital ohmmeter (DVOM) to the sensor terminals. The ohmmeter should read as follows:
With the engine and sensor at normal operating temperature, about 200°F, the DVOM should read about 700–1,000 ohms.
With the engine and sensor at room temperature, about 70°F, the DVOM should read about 7,000–13,000 ohms.