Ive got a transmission issue with my 1995 Dodge Dakota. When in P there is no noise, but when in R, N, D, 2 & 1 the truck makes an odd noise, a clicking noise mixed with a noise like shaking a bag of sand almost. the noise is in sync with the engine, when it is reved the noise frequency increases. but there is no noise in park at all so i know its not a belt or pulley. There is also no issues while driving, shifting is smooth while in drive, i can note that the odd time it is a little stiff getting it out of park or out of reverse into drive. but I assume that wouldn’t be related to the issue. Any clue what it could be?
This is an odd description of a noise and is difficult to understand without hearing it. I agree that the shifter being stiff would not have anything to do with the noise. The first thing I would check would be the transmission fluid level. Then try to pull any codes that may be stored int he computer. Since this is an OBD I system the codes can be pulled without a scan tool.
Using a Scan Tool (DRBIII or StarSCANT) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures, verify
all engine systems are functioning as designed. If DTCs are present, other than those listed
above, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with
Inspect the air induction system including the air filter element, resonator, air induction hoses
and throttle body, for restriction and/or large accumulations of silty deposits on air flow
If accumulation of silty deposits are present in the throttle body and /or behind the throttle
plate, perform the appropriate Repair Procedure.
04897150AB or 04897151AB
Brake Parts Cleaner
Clean Soft Shop Towel
Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold. Refer to the service information
available in TechCONNECT or the Ram Truck service manual (publication no.
81-370-04059), Section 14 Fuel Injection, Throttle Body, Removal, page 14-36.
CAUTION: Use only Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner, p/n 04897150AB or 04897151AB, as
the use of other cleaners may damage components of the throttle body.
Use this cleaner only in a well ventilated area. Do not let this cleaner come
in contact with the skin. Rubber or butyl gloves are recommended. Wash
thoroughly after use. Avoid eye contact. Avoid ingesting.
While holding the throttle open, spray the throttle body bore with Mopar Brake Parts
Cleaner, p/n 04897150AB or 04897151AB. Spray the entire throttle body bore and the
manifold side of the throttle plate.
Use a soft cloth to help break loose deposits to clean the throttle body bore and throttle
plate. While holding the throttle open, clean both the top and bottom of the throttle body
bore. Also clean the manifold side and edges of the throttle plate.
NOTE: Take due care not to scratch, bend, or dent throttle plate and/or throttle body
NOTE: It is important this cleaning operation be performed thoroughly and completely.
The edge of the throttle plate and the portion of the throttle body bore that is in
the closest proximity to the closed throttle plate is the most critical area where
the cleaning should be concentrated. This area must be free of all deposits
when the cleaning is completed.
Spray the throttle body with, Mopar Brake Parts Cleaner, p/n 04897150AB or
04897151AB, and then blow dry with compressed shop air. Inspect for any foreign
material which may have been left behind during the cleaning process.
CAUTION: Do not apply shop air pressure directly into the throttle shaft and throttle
body housing holes.
Open and close the throttle plate on the throttle body to verify that there is no increased
effort when moving from the closed position. If the condition is corrected, proceed to the
next step. If the increased effort still exists, then some other condition exists with the
throttle body and further diagnosis and repair will be necessary and will not be covered
by this repair procedure.
Install the throttle body on the intake manifold.
Open and close the throttle to verify that there is no increased effort when moving from
the closed throttle position. If the condition is corrected, proceed to the next step. If the
increased effort still exists, then some other condition exists with the throttle linkage and
further diagnosis and repair will be necessary.
Policy: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
Installing a new stereo in my 2005 Dodge Stratus sxt that has power to insert and eject the CD player but no power to the rest of the radio. I replaced the radio fuse but can’t find the IOD fuse. Can you tell me exactly where it’s located and if there is anything else that could’ve caused this?
If this is an aftermarket stereo you will need to refer tot he manufacturers installation instructions. If your interior lights come on when you open the door the fuse should be good.
This IOD or “Ignition Off Draw” fuse is used during assembly line work, and when vehicles are in storage on dealer lots to prevent battery going dead.
It is recommended if vehicle sits unused for a period of time, say for more than 10 days or so, that you pull it to shut off parasitic drain to the battery. The down side is you will lose radio presets, but it will protect charge in the battery. All you have to do is press black clips to raise fuse out of holder, do not attempt to completely remove it.
It’s in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) block in the trunk. Pop the cover, and it’s the big fuse (60 A) at the top – right beside where the positive lead come in.
There are two small, white tabs along the edge of it. Push down on those, and the fuse pops up. Don’t remove it though..just pop it up…..Your trunk light will go out, as well as your interior lights (along with compass reading, etc.).
I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan with 3.8L v-6. Approximately how many quarts/liters do I need to drain from the cooling system to avoid spillage when replacing the thermostat?
WARNING! DO NOT remove or loosen the coolant pressure cap. cylinder block drain plugs, or the drain cock when the system is hot and under pressure because serious burns from the coolant may occur.
The coolant system holds 13.40 quarts with out rear heat and 16.30 quarts if equipped with rear heat. This includes heater and coolant recovery tank filled to “max” level. You will need to drain the coolant until the level is below the height of the thermostat. There will still beContinue reading »
Several months ago had blowout on drivers front of my 1997 Dodge Ram 1500. lil while later Gen lite came on(battery light on dash) & battery started going dead. I’ve replaced the plugs & wires, starter, alternator, battery, & yes even the ECC. The Gen lite has never gone off. Drove for 2 or 3 days w/no prob. left this morning drove maybe 5 miles & battery went completely dead.
Anytime the battery indicator light comes on it means the battery is not being charged. Either the alternator is bad, the alternator is not hooked up correctly or some wiring in between the battery and alternator is at fault. This is of course assuming the alternator belt is still there.
What could cause all the warning lights to come on and off along with the gauges for rpm and mph ?
When the engine dies this occurs or the engines computer loses power for a moment such as an intermittent open circuit.
Dodge Warning Lights on Dash
Testing the operation of the warning lights on your dash is easy. All you need to do is turn the ignition key to the “ON” position and they should illuminate. Generally the lights will only illuminate when there is an issue that needs some attention. However, when the check engine light is flashing, the engine should be turned off as soon as possible to ensure no internal engine damage has occurred. A steady light is fine and driving will not cause damage.
The headlights on my 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 are causing problems. The headlights have been going out just about every morning for about 10 seconds. About fifteen miles into my commute. Then they come back on and seem fine. The other day when it was real cold, they wouldn’t come on at all. The next day they were fine.
This is a classic description of an intermittent open connection. This can be caused by a loose connection, rusty or corroded connection or a break in the wiring harness. Looking at the wiring diagram I can see there is no relay for the headlights and should make it easier to narrow down. Start by checking the connections. You may also want to perform the “wiggle test” on the wiring.
My late husband drove my 1996 Dodge Stratus for a good two weeks while it was overheating, just adding water as needed. We have changed, spark plugs(due to oil being in the holes), valve cover gasket, coil pack, cam shaft sensor, oxygen sensor, mass air flow sensor, & the oil pressure sensor. Hooked it up to a code reader after all were replaced & it is not giving any codes now, but still will not start. It acts like it wants to but will not fire over. We were having issue not getting spark from 2&3 plugs as well, not sure if that is fixed.. Wondering what the next step would be? I have had a suggestion that it could be timing off or timing belt, possibly warped head or bent valves as well. Where to begin?
Assuming the car did not start to begin with, if it did you may need to re-check your work. As with any no start situation it is necessary to determine what is missing. Once you know what the engine is not getting you can dig deeper into that particular area and repair as needed. For my money I would double check the spark plug gap(they can get smashed together if dropped) on all spark plugs and confirm spark. Then I would see if some starting fluid sprayed into the air filter would allow the engine to start. If not, I would move to the compression test. Loss of compression can be from a blown head gasket caused by overheating or a broken timing belt.
Driving my Dodge Neon and all of a sudden it dies… not getting any fire to the coil pack so I put a new one in that’s wasn’t the problem.. the gauges work but the speedometer does sometimes the rest works fine cause I was thinking it might be the icm… or the cps but idk how those go out need help asp got me stuck in a bad situation
Many times spark and fuel are missing at the same time. This can be caused from a faulty crank position sensor and failed PCM fuse. Make sure you are getting injector pulse before making that ruling. If all you suffer from is lack of spark, then stay the course.