I have a strange problem with the Air Conditioning on my 2000 Dodge Durango with 360 engine. The AC works fine until the vehicle is driven for about 45 minutes. Then the AC quits blowing cold air. If you turn it off for about 15 minutes or so, when you turn it back on it works great for another 45 minutes. Please help. This problem has my local Midas shop baffled and those guys can usually fix anything.
I have come across this one time over 12 years working on air conditioning issues. This is a good one. It turned out to be a sticking relay. It was causing the compressor to continually run. If you pop the hood when it quits blowing cold you should see the Accumulator covered in ice. The system is freezing and once it has time to thaw back down it starts to work again.
My speedometer will not work. And my abs and brake light is on. I asked a local mechanic. And he said to change the speed sensor on the transmission. I did that. Still not working. Changed the speed sensor on the rear tandem still not working. Any ideas?
The ABS and Brake light can come on for several reasons. Make sure the brake fluid level is full. This can make both light illuminate and may be a separate issue from the speedometer. There are two speed sensor s on the transmission. The Input Speed Sensor is on the left front of the transmission and the Output speed sensor is on the left rear of the transmission. The rear wheel speed sensor is in the Differential housing. and there are to front wheel speed sensor located inside the front hub bearings. The hub bearings are common failure parts. The front speed sensor failure would also cause the ABS and brake light to illuminate.
The speedometer gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the vehicle road speed. This gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data bus. The speedometer is an air core magnetic unit that receives battery current on the instrument cluster electronic circuit board through the fused ignition switch output (run-start) circuit whenever the ignition switch is in the On or Start positions. The cluster is programmed to move the gauge needle back to the low end of the scale after the ignition switch is turned to the Off position. The instrument cluster circuitry controls the gauge needle position and provides the following features:
Vehicle Speed Message – Each time the cluster receives a vehicle speed message from the PCM it will calculate the correct vehicle speed reading and position the gauge needle at that relative speed position on the gauge scale. The cluster will receive a new vehicle speed message and re-position the gauge pointer accordingly about every 88 milliseconds. The gauge needle will continue to be positioned at the actual vehicle speed position on the gauge scale until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position.
Communication Error – If the cluster fails to receive a speedometer message, it will hold the gauge needle at the last indication for about three seconds, or until the ignition switch is turned to the Off position, whichever occurs first. After three seconds, the gauge needle will return to the left end of the gauge scale.
Actuator Test – Each time the cluster is put through the actuator test, the speedometer needle will be swept to several calibration points on the gauge scale in a prescribed sequence in order to confirm the functionality of the gauge and the cluster control circuitry.
The PCM continually monitors the vehicle speed sensor to determine the vehicle road speed. The PCM then sends the proper vehicle speed messages to the instrument cluster. For further diagnosis of the speedometer or the instrument cluster circuitry that controls the gauge. For proper diagnosis of the vehicle speed sensor, the PCM, the PCI data bus, or the electronic message inputs to the instrument cluster that control the speedometer, a DRBIII® scan tool is required.
Recently, I have been driving and while accelerating into 3rd gear, the car jerks, then I gear a thumping noise… What could this be?
Since the thumping noise doesn’t occur until you accelerated into top gear I think it may be transmission related. It would be a good idea to check the transmission fluid level and make sure it is full and looks nice and clean. If the fluid looks dark or burnt, there may be a more significant internal problem. Could be a solenoid sticking internally in the transmission. There may be a code stored that may assist in locating the exact issue. The Dodge Magnum came with 2 different transmissions, the 42RLE and the NAG1. You may want to have a reputable transmission shop perform the computer diagnostics with there scan tool since they are kinda of expensive. An average scan tool will not pull transmission codes, they just pull engine codes. If by chance you do have a good scan tool that will extract transmission codes here are the procedures to follow.
42RLE PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
42RLE PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Low fluid level can be the cause of many transmission problems. If the fluid level is low locate and repair the leak then check and adjust the fluid level per the Service Information.
Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to avoid false symptoms.
With the scan tool, read Engine DTC’s. Check and repair all Engine DTC’s prior to performing any transmission symptom diagnostics.
With the scan tool, read Transmission DTC’s. Record all DTC’s and 1 Trip Failures.
Diagnose 1 Trip Failures as a fully matured DTC.
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors. Repair as necessary.
Perform the Shift Lever Position Test. If the test does not pass, refer to Symptom test for P0706 Check Shifter Signal.
For Gear Ratio DTC’s, check and record all CVI’s.
Most DTC’s set on start up but some must be set by driving the vehicle such that all diagnostic monitors have run.
Verify flash level of Powertrain Control Module. Some problems are corrected by software upgrades to the Transmission and Engine software.
42RLE TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1
1. After completion of the Transmission Verification Test, the Powertrain Verification Test must be performed.
2. Connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
3. Reconnect any disconnected components.
4. With the scan tool, erase all Transmission DTC’s, also erase the PCM DTC’s.
5. Perform *PRNDL FAULT CLEARING PROCEDURE after completion of repairs for P0706 CHECK SHIFTER SIGNAL.
6. With the scan tool, display Transmission Temperature. Start and run the engine until the Transmission Temperature is HOT, above 43° C or 110° F.
7. Check the transmission fluid and adjust if necessary.
8. If the Powertrain Control Module or Torque Converter has been replaced, or if the Transmission has been repaired or replaced, it is necessary to perform the scan tool Quick Learn Procedure.
9. If the Powertrain Control Module or Front Control Module has been replaced you must reset the Pinion Factor in the Front Control Module.
10. Road test the vehicle. With the scan tool, monitor the engine RPM. Make 15 to 20 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 upshifts. Perform these shifts from a standing start to 45 mph with a constant throttle opening of 20 to 25 degrees.
11. Below 25 MPH, make 5 to 8 wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st gear. Allow at least 5 seconds each in 2nd and 3rd gear between each kickdown.
12. For a specific DTC, drive the vehicle to the Symptom’s When Monitored/When Set conditions to verify the DTC is repaired.
13. If equipped with AutoStick®, upshift and downshift several times using the AutoStick® feature during the road test.
14. Use the EATX OBDII task manager to run Good Trip time in each gear, this will confirm the repair and to ensure that the DTC has not re-matured.
15. Check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) during the road test. If a DTC sets during the road test , return to the Symptom list and perform the appropriate symptom.
16. Erase P0700 DTC in the PCM to turn the MIL light off after making transmission repairs.
NAG1 PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE
Low fluid level can be the cause of many transmission problems. If the fluid level is low, locate and repair the leak then check and adjust the fluid level in accordance with the Service Information.
Always perform diagnostics with a fully charged battery to avoid false symptoms.
With the scan tool, read the engine DTCs. Check and repair all engine DTCs prior to performing transmission symptom diagnostic procedures.
With the scan tool, read and record all Transmission DTCs.
If the TCM detects and stores a DTC, the TCM also stores the vehicles operating conditions under which the DTC originally set and is located in scan tool under Environmental Data. Before erasing any stored DTCs, record any available data to assist in duplicating the conditions in which the DTC originally set.
Using the wiring diagram/schematic as a guide, inspect the wiring and connectors. Check connectors – Clean/repair as necessary.
Most DTCs set on start up but some must be set by driving the vehicle such that all diagnostic monitors have run.
Verify flash level of transmission controller. Some problems are corrected by software upgrades to the transmission controller. Verify no variant DTCs are present. If variant DTCs are present, perform their re spective test first.
If the TCM (EGS) is flashed, perform a EGS initialization with the scan tool to relearn variant coding.
NAG1 TRANSMISSION VERIFICATION TEST – VER 1
Reconnect any disconnected components.
Connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector.
With the scan tool, erase ABS DTCs.
With the scan tool, erase PCM DTCs.
With the scan tool, erase TCM DTCs.
With the scan tool, display the Transmission temperature. Start and run the engine until the Transmission temperature is above 43° C (110° F).
Check the Transmission fluid and adjust if necessary. Refer to the Service Information for the proper Fluid Fill procedure.
If internal repairs were performed and the shift quality is still poor, it may be necessary to check the internal repair.
If the TCM (EGS) is flashed or replaced, with the scan tool, perform a EGS initialization to relearn variant coding.
If internal transmission repairs are performed or replacement of the Transmission Control Module, perform a TCM ADAPTATION procedure. (Refer to 8 – ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULES/TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE – STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ROAD TEST PROCEDURE
Road test the vehicle. Make fifteen to twenty 1–2, 2–3, 3–4, and 4–5 upshifts.
Perform these shifts from a standing start to 72 Kmh (45 MPH) with a constant throttle opening of 20 to 25 degrees.
With speeds below 40 Kmh (25 MPH), make five to eight wide open throttle kickdowns to 1st gear. Allow at least 5 seconds each in 2nd and 3rd gear between each kickdown.
I was coming home last night and my van just died on me and it wont start. It ran fine all day long until then. The oil light is on and I checked the oil. It was a little low. This is the first time that its done this.
I’m wondering if the oil light was on while you were driving before it died? But we will move on anyway. Anytime the engine will turn over but will not start you need to determine why. You need to determine what is missing. There are four basic things an engine needs in order to run.
I had a slight delay when I hit the gas at a stop light. I drive an hour to and from work. When I got close to home, I smelled rotten eggs. What can cause a rotten smell and will it last 2 week’s until I can get it fixed? There are 162,040 miles on it.
The rotten smell is coming from the catalytic converter. This happens when the engine is running rich and the converter is overloaded. If driven too long the converter will melt internally and clog. Not a good idea if you can avoid it. Also the rich condition is usually accompanied with a check engine light code. Your local auto parts store should be able to pull these codes for free. Have any issues repaired and the smell should go away shortly. Two weeks would be pushing it, but It shouldn’t leave you stranded. The fuel mileage will be horrible though.
I have a 1987 Dodge D-150, 5.2L, automatic transmission, 2WD, and would like to know if I could put a 5.9L motor in and still have the transmission bolt up without changing it out?
The blocks are the same, just the 360 is bored out to a larger displacement. So yes the transmission should bolt right up without any issue.
V8 Engine identification number location — 1985–88 vehicles
There is a quick way of telling the small block 318 and 360 cu. in. V8s from the 400 and 440s. On the 318 and 360s, the distributor is at the rear of the engine, while the 400 and 440 cu. in. V8s have it at the front.
I am trying to locate where the knock sensor is on my vehicle and what I will have to do to get to it.
Knock Sensor Removal – 2.7L
The sensor screws into the cylinder block, directly below the intake manifold.
On the 2.7L engine the knock sensor is located under the intake manifold and passenger side cylinder head. The intake manifold and head will need to be removed to gain access. It is a tight fit and you will also need to use a crows foot socket to remove the knock sensor(1).
Removal – 4 Cylinder
The sensor threads into the side of the engine block in front of the starter. It is a tight fit and you will also need to use a crows foot socket to remove the knock sensor
Install knocksensor. Tighten knocksensor to 10 N·m (7 ft. lbs.) torque. Over or under tightening effects knocksensor performance, possibly causing improper spark control.
When the knock sensor detects a knock in one of the cylinders, it sends an input signal to the PCM. In response, the PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders by a scheduled amount.
Knock sensors contain a piezoelectric material which constantly vibrates and sends an input voltage (signal) to the PCM while the engine operates. As the intensity of the crystal’s vibration increases, the knock sensor output voltage also increases.
The voltage signal produced by the knock sensor increases with the amplitude of vibration. The PCM receives as an input the knock sensor voltage signal. If the signal rises above a predetermined level, the PCM will store that value in memory and retard ignition timing to reduce engine knock. If the knock sensor voltage exceeds a preset value, the PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders. It is not a selective cylinder retard.
The PCM ignores knock sensor input during engine idle conditions. Once the engine speed exceeds a specified value, knock retard is allowed.
Knock retard uses its own short term and long term memory program.
Long term memory stores previous detonation information in its battery-backed RAM. The maximum authority that long term memory has over timing retard can be calibrated.
Short term memory is allowed to retard timing up to a preset amount under all operating conditions (as long as rpm is above the minimum rpm) except WOT. The PCM, using short term memory, can respond quickly to retard timing when engine knock is detected. Short term memory is lost any time the ignition key is turned off.
NOTE:Over or under tightening affects knock sensor performance, possibly causing improper spark control.
All the door locks and power windows work , but the passenger door don’t work at all ,both power lock and window stopped working at the same time.
Passenger side power window and door lock stopped working at same time. All the rest of locks and power windows work???
This is a common issue with older vehicles. The wiring harness becomes fragile and damages easily. Look at the wiring harness at the door jam where it flexes. This is the most common place for the wiring to become damaged.
When I start up my 2006 Dodge Caravan SXT, it makes a whining noise. I tried driving around the block to see if it stops but the gas pedal vibrates and the noise gets louder. Not sure what is wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Usually a whining noise if from a hydraulic pump. Your vehicle has two. The transmission and the power steering. Check the fluid levels on both. Of course if one of them are low take measures to refill them. Check the transmission fluid with the engine running. Check the power steering fluid with or without the engine running.
The car was in a minor fender bender a few months ago. After the car ran fine and was driven home. I’ve started it a couple times since its been sitting and it ran fine. Today I jump started it and after I removed the cables it died after a minute or less. As long as the jump cables are connected it will stay running but the gauge lights and radio will flicker. The only service light that stays on is the traction control light. I looked at as much wiring as I could for damage or shorts and didn’t find anything. I had taken the damaged headlights and grill off but otherwise haven’t done anything to repair the damaged body parts. Where should I go next?
Replace the BATTERY is my first thought. Make sure the alternator belt is still on. Then check your alternators operation. You can test battery operation. A hard impact like an accident and jumping a battery often cause damage tot he battery internally. The lead plates inside build up a crust on the plates. This crust is blasted off when a battery is jump started and the particles float to the bottom and often short out the battery.
How to test battery operation
Use a load tester to test a battery. Reading a 12v from a multi-meter does not show you anything other than its charge status. You need to test for amperage draw capabilities which can be down with a load tester.